Yeah i know my goals arent high. I have a 1998 5pd and i dont drive that great. What couple of mods can i do to run me into the flat 15's at the track? I know the y pipe is probably the most effective mod but will that bring me to 15's being a crappy driver? I've read in the 1/4 forum that some older models 95/96 ran mid 14's with just a y-pipe. Do you guys think it would be possible to run flat 15's being a newbie driver?

 

Practice practice

 

Work on your reaction time. Its usually the launch that'll make your times good or bad.

 

Yeah i want to practice, but my car has 108k on it and everything is original. I'm afraid i might blow something up going to redline all day. I just want mods that i can drive moderately aggressive and take me into the flat 15's. I really dont want to have to push the car to the max to acheieve quik times. Im looking at flat 15's not 13's or anything.

 

Why bother? If your car isn't set up for speed and you're a sh!tty driver, just go to the track and watch the rest of the idiots trash their investment.

 

Run 15's with no air in them.

 

Dude i'm not a hardcore racing enthusiast. I just want milder performance and i want to be able to hold my own against those little honda's and toyotas.

 

how bad would you have to be to not get 15's? Get used to driving stick first, then learn how to push your car...

 

But then i'de be wasting a good set of 16's i already have!

 

That has nothing todo with the final ET.

This is true. ..

 

So, you want to run a 15 without pushing your car all the way? What's the point?

My car has 212k and I beat the hell out of it. It runs 15 flat with just a Y-pipe an auto trans.

So, to add to what has already been posted: practice, practice, practice

 

Acutally i've been driving a stick for about 5 years, and being only 20 and in college i dont want to risk blowing up the car trying to shift at redline all the time. Ifi can acheieve 15's w/out running the tach up all the way i'de be happy and have piece of mind my car is ok.

 

ROTFLMAO

 

My car has 227k is 10 years old, and sees PAST redline at least once a day.

 

I guess i'll just practice. Hey MZMTG does your car burn or leak oil at all??

 

Nope, never has.

 

I read recently on the '.org that to optimize speed you should only shift in first gear at red line, 2nd is something like 6200 and 3rd just over 6,000. Try that.

Obviously to enhance your chances of running 15 flat you should add a Y-pipe and an intake, or K&N panel filter if you're not into noise. Remove your spare tire at the track, run with less than a full tank of gas.

What other best bang for the buck mods could he do? Obviously not a B-pipe, or JWT ECU upgrade or UDP given the cost factor. I take it he wants to do this on a shoestring budget.

 

Yup, on a shoestring budget. I think that if some good drivers are running mid 14's with only a y pipe i should be able to run flat 15's with a y-pipe and an ok driver. Could that assumption be made considering i am just an ok driver?

 

I guess now the question is which y-pipe. I have been considering the budget y-pipe for a long time now. IS there any reason why i should not get it? Also i take about 3 1500mile round trips every year. Will the y-pipe pose any problems?

 

Just get a y-pipe, its the best mod you can do for the price. I went with the Budget and I love it. Also, I can not start a new thread, it says I dont have permission, plz help.

 

research, read the stickies... for the most part all y-pipes will give you the same gains, budget is good, but i have seen forums with people complaining about that "bees in a can" sound. the only y-pipe i have never heard anybody complain about is the cattmann, then again, few people own it

 

To get better times, like everyone said, practice, get a short shifter, y pipe, a g-tech meter ($30.00 cheap one on eBay, and shift light installed right at or a little before redline. I don't know if you have a cold air or not, if you don't you can try that. Also throttle response is a factor, clean out your throttle body with a rag and some cleaner. Good luck.

 

I deliberated over buying a y-pipe ad infinitum because I am not into noise. I bought a Budget stainless steel y-pipe last June and have it coupled with a K&N panel air filter. At idle and cruise there is absolutely NO difference in noise level, but at WOT there is a bit of a growl that I like (this talk about bees in a can with them is utter nonsense). Whatever you do, keep your stock y-pipe tucked away safely in case you ever need it. They are as expensive as hell.

 

Sweet! I hate noise also as our cars are at around 4500rpm while cruising 80 it can get a bit noisy. Do you have the site you bought it from? All i can find is the budget aluminized one. Is there any difference?

 

Try their website: www.lssexhaust.com

If you want to talk to a live, warm body - 1-800-256-4482

Don't go with the aluminized. Go with the stainless steel y-pipe. It is also considerably lighter than the stock y-pipe (maybe 15 pounds). It removes two existing pre-cats.

 

Turbo it, im pretty sure u'll hit a 15 then if not 14...13...12

 

learn how to launch and drive realllllllllllllllllly well

 

Your not going to get any results if you refuse to push your car. You would have to be making alot of power to run a 15 flat shifting at 5K rpm's at 80% throttle.

What you want and what your willing to do totally contradict each other

 

get in car, drive to track, line up to race, punch gas at the light and speed shift threw the gears, pick up slip, look at your 15.0 slip, head back to the crib, job well done !

edit: and like mike says, dont be babying around giving us a bad name (lol) at the track ! stomp it at the light, almost bounce off rev limit in first and speed shift into second ,rofl !! ---> wind second out like a thrashing tornado again deadly approaching rev limiter, shift like a super hero into 3rd .. ... really need to find a nice shift point here, redlining 3rd is a waste of time then shift over into 4th if you have to ( try listening to the engine )

again dont putt around out there like a civic, show those other peeps what the grocery getter can do, the vq is like the energizer bunny, it keeps going and going and going.. a few runs like that wont do diddly

c

 

I called them....A nice lady picked up, said its "abooooooout" (canadian accent lol) $210 US and $18 shipping.. Gonna pick one up soon

 

1 - a short shifter does nothing for increasing shift speeds. Unless you get a true short shifter, that locates the **** closer to the steering wheel.

2 - throttle response is pretty much irrevalent when you're flat out and power shifting.


^ to the above I recently purchased a Budget Y-Pipe, and the product and customer service are awesome.

 

How is the fitment sky? I will probably order mines friday.

 

It fits like a glove and is almost too pretty to install. Take a picture of it and put it beside your bed, lol!

 

umm you dont need anything to hold your own against hondas or toyotas lol stock will do just fine. i stomped oout many modded civics and toyota celicas, mr2s and the like in my lifetime in my max whats even more sad is before this car i had a miata that i trashed racing my freinds 330ci and i was on his *** .. its all in the driver i could give a trashy driver a porshe 911 and race him in my max and take him out

 

LOL - nice.

Theres no way your gonna run 15's not pushing it. Youre not gonna hurt it unless you do it ALL the time. The VQ is a beast.

I believe there was a question about this........http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=288967

 

Apparently stainless steel is less likely to rust as quickly, but many people do not have the rust problem anyway, climate is a factor there.

Also, what gear are you cruisin at 80 doin 4500 RPM?? 3rd? 4th?

In my 95 auto, when I was cruisin 80, it would be just under 3000, maybe 2900rpm.
In my 98 5-speed when I'm cruisin 80, the RPMs are around 3200...

 

i dont understand how people cant shift fast or take off fast. all of my friends shift so slow. i raced my friends 88 corvettle in my moms del sol both 5 spds and i won cause he takes like 2 seconds to shift and when he takes off it takes him forever to let the clutch out.

 

INDEEEEEEED!!!!

 

Add JWT/Vi, and it keeps going, going, AND going

 

I'm in 5th gear. I just think its how the Max is geared.