Anyone have one ?? I went on Motorvate for the Fronts and I lost my chiltons book somewhere and I wanna tackle the rears tomorrow...any help would be good

I also have two little springs on each side of the front that is NOT on the Motorvate website...they were on top of the pads kinda

thanks

-matt

 

replacing the pads in the rear is the same as in the front, except you twist the caliper pistons clock wise to get them to go in, you dont push them.

 

Hi Matty,

If you are changing them for the first time, chances are you can just skip the rears. With the 70/30 braking split on our cars... you can go well over the front replacement time window and still be ok on rears. I'm at 75K now.. still goin strong.

Amit

 

Dont forget, to take off the bolt holding the E-brake. Also you will need a rear brake tool to twist or use needle nose pliers

 

i never took off that bolt holding the ebrake cable. i did on the first one, and realized that it barely gives you any slack, so on the second sice i didnt even bother. and to twist the caliper, needle nose pliers will use fine. thats what i used, it might hurt your hand a little but its not bad.

 

There are 2 14mm bolts that need to be removed. And thats basically it. I never removed the E-brake cable/bolt and it wasn't hard to get the piston twisted back in. Make you to check all parts also to see if they are seized, such as an improperly lubricated guidepin ect...

 

It looks like the drivers side caliper needs to be replaced so im just gonna replace both the drivers side and the pass side rear calipers. I called around and there alittle bit more than I expected...the cheapest place was $95 one place was $130 and the last place I called was $145...Im gonna have a buddy at a shop pick them up for me...(I thought they were more like $50-60 a peice)
The DR. side was making alot of dust the past year like it was frozen, ALOT more dust than the others..it wore down a bit faster then the other side as well....also the rubber boot slid up a bit past the piston pretty much zeized it up...

-matt

 

I ******* HATE twisting the rear brakes!! they **** me off, i spent soooooo much time twisting the stupid piston back in its place.

 

Is that before or after core fee? Autozone typically sells remanufactured ones for about $75-85 after core fee. Otherwise, I would try a local junkyard.

 

how can i check if my caliper is bad a mechanic told me it was but i need a second opinion

 

You basically take it apart as you would when you change your brake pads. When you take it apart, There will be two guide pins, one on the bottom, the other on the top. If these aren't greased correctly, they seize over time and your brakes will come in contact with the rotors all the time, or not at all. Also, when you try to turn the piston clockwise to compress it, it should actually turn. If it doesn't, then the piston seized. Another sign is looking at your brake pads. Are they worn more on top? on bottom? ect... They should have even wear, both front and back side of the pads on the caliper.

 

ok thanks my rear rotors looks more rusted on top then the bottom always so maybe the top is not touching when i brake

 

can someone provide a link for a rear brake DIY? I need to do this too...thanks.

 

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801f5965.jsp

You'll need:
brake cleaner
lub/grease
brake pad
14mm socket or closed-end wrench
needle nose pliers or a caliper compressor kit

 

my rear PS piston wont hardly turn at all. Is there a way to rebuild this thing or am I better off picking one up from Autozone and replacing the whole thing?

 

I would buy a new one form Autozone ... There are rebuild kits, but I jsut change the whole thing out.

 

Great link, that site is pretty useful.
I was reading on the motorvate website writeup (http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/301) and he mentions the brake hardware kit, but said he didn't really need to use it. I haven't actually checked my shims yet or anything, so I wouldn't know for sure in my case, but has anybody else needed this brake hardware kit?