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rear brake replacement problem/?

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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 07:51 AM
  #1  
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rear brake replacement problem/?

hey now

my friends and i were replacing my rear brakes (pads and rotors) when we ran into a little problem. when trying to screw the caliper piston back in we found it insanely hard to turn it...it would barely move and then finally stopped completely. my question is if we were to drain a little bit of brake fluid (or completely drain) would this make it easier. it seems like a yes to me BUT i just want to make sure before i do anything. thanks.

ps

if i do drain the fluid, would i have to then bleed the brake line, and if so, how do i do this? THANKS!!
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 08:03 AM
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most likely your caliper is frozen. they should turn back in no problem with the right tool. if you want to goto Napa and get a reman one for $99 $60 core or get the rebuilt kit at nissan and do it your self. you might need some specialty tools. and some snap ring pliers.
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 08:05 AM
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I agree with killcrap, it's frozen. I just replaced my rear calipers, and I paid $89. at Advanced Auto Parts, and $60. core.
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 08:10 AM
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I'll third that. Did you also check the guidepins also?
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 09:04 AM
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Actually, when compressing any one of your 4 pistons you need to take the cap off the master cylinder. This will relieve the back pressure created by fully compressing the piston. You will not need to bleed the brakes if you do it this way. Just make sure you put a towel over the top of the open M/C to soak up any fluid that may spill over. Then when you get everything back together make sure the M/C doesnt empty when pumping the brakes.
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 09:58 AM
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Wow, isn't this ironic, I wanted to start a new thread asking the exact same thing. I'm having the same problem. When I tried to put the piston back in I loosened the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and tried to turn and compress the piston w/ a C-clamp, it went back in a little bit at first, but then just stopped. I'm assuming your situation is the same. I ended up just putting the original pads back on since I couldn't get the piston to go in enough for the new pads.
I've asked around and gotten mixed responses. Some people told me I should buy that tool which helps you get the piston back in, others said that I need to open up the bleeder valve a little to relieve the pressure, and others said that my pistons are probably just frozen.
But I don't know how much sense that makes because the brakes still work, I can use the e-brake or the brake pedal and it will still clamp down on the discs, so how could it be frozen if it still goes in and out?
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 10:18 AM
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Removed post. I should have read more carefully. Yeah, probably frozen like others said...
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 10:25 AM
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I had to replace both of my rears because the were stuck, but isn't bad since it was only $50 at Auto Zone for a new one.
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TrackSmart
*** DON'T YOU NEED TO TWIST (not push) the rear calipers?! ***

If I recall, the fronts can be pushed in with a C-clamp. The rears need to be twisted with the correct tool ($10 tool from any autoparts place).

The tool looks like a CUBE with nubs sticking out of it. Mine looks like this:

http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=492


(I apologize if I misunderstood your question and you were speaking about something else and knew this already...)
Yes it needs to be twisted but you can also use a needle nose plier. It doesn't have to be forced very hard to turn.
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 11:03 AM
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If it's frozen, will the piston move at all? Like wouldn't it imply that they'd be locked up all the time?
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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IMO when I did my rear brakes (twice now) the pistons where anything but "easy" to turn. It did take a little force but I got them to recess far enough to install new pads. Buy the $10 tool and skip the needle nose pliers. Pliers will just cause you headaches if they slip and tear the boot.
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by nd4spdgt
If it's frozen, will the piston move at all? Like wouldn't it imply that they'd be locked up all the time?
Yes, the pads will be touching the rotors at all times if it is stuck in the 'on' position.
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Dubbya
IMO when I did my rear brakes (twice now) the pistons where anything but "easy" to turn. It did take a little force but I got them to recess far enough to install new pads. Buy the $10 tool and skip the needle nose pliers. Pliers will just cause you headaches if they slip and tear the boot.
I second this. If this does not work, then get new calipers.
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dubbya
IMO when I did my rear brakes (twice now) the pistons where anything but "easy" to turn. It did take a little force but I got them to recess far enough to install new pads. Buy the $10 tool and skip the needle nose pliers. Pliers will just cause you headaches if they slip and tear the boot.
Thanks. Do you think I should have to open the bleeder valve, while doing this too? Or will that just be a bigger headache in the long run and just getting this tool should do the trick?
Old Apr 19, 2005 | 02:46 PM
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Get the tool, and uncap the master cyclinder. Uncaping the MC will do almost the same as opening up the bleeder. If you have to bleed the brakes with stock bleeders you will need 2 people. Like I said be prepared to use some force. I have slipped off the piston atleast a couple of times while using the tool. Just try to turn it slowly with even pressure.
Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:55 AM
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the piston will still work. but wont fully retract back into the caliper. i used to rebuild my calipers but found it cheaper to get the reman one with warranty.
Old Apr 20, 2005 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Dubbya
IMO when I did my rear brakes (twice now) the pistons where anything but "easy" to turn. It did take a little force but I got them to recess far enough to install new pads. Buy the $10 tool and skip the needle nose pliers. Pliers will just cause you headaches if they slip and tear the boot.
No, i find the nissan rears to be strange, for every time i compress them the boot sticks even after soaking it. My boots are all tore up and twisted. ive took the piston completely out, which is the only way to get it back in looking nice with the boot. Mine are still working fine, i hope they dont lock up soon i want to paint them nice. ^^ Also where is a link on this home rebuilding of the rears? I find the rears to be alot more pricy then the fronts.
Old Apr 20, 2005 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by MaxGordon7
No, i find the nissan rears to be strange, for every time i compress them the boot sticks even after soaking it. My boots are all tore up and twisted. ive took the piston completely out, which is the only way to get it back in looking nice with the boot. Mine are still working fine, i hope they dont lock up soon i want to paint them nice. ^^ Also where is a link on this home rebuilding of the rears? I find the rears to be alot more pricy then the fronts.
I have rebuilt the fronts. Its a cake job. I cant imagine the rears being much harder. I would think they just screw all the way out. Then its a matter of getting the rebuild kit from Nissan and cleaning, replacing seals, and reassembley.
Old Apr 21, 2005 | 08:26 AM
  #19  
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You can barrow the tool for free at Autozone.
Old Apr 21, 2005 | 12:17 PM
  #20  
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http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ap7860.html

That's what the tool kit looks like, I just borrowed one from Autozone, deposit is about $34, when you return the tools you get a full refund. It's freaking awesome by the way. I just changed all my pads last night and without that tool it would've been near impossible to put the piston back in for the rear calipers (as you already know).
Old Apr 21, 2005 | 04:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by SDot82
I had to replace both of my rears because the were stuck, but isn't bad since it was only $50 at Auto Zone for a new one.
SDot82, I am looking to replace my rear calipers also, and was looking online at Autozone and noticed the charge for the Core charge? I am a bit clueless on this, plus they had also mentioned that they would refund the $85 when I return the old ones. Any insight would be great. Thanks.
Old Apr 24, 2005 | 08:54 PM
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The core charge is just a temporary deposit. You get a "new" remanufactured part and they get your old part.

When you return the old part, they give you back your deposit.
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