You know, at first glance, the sensor seems pretty easy to remove, especially when you have aftermarket intake.

I can see the damn sensor easily , but just as luck would have, it is a ***** to get at. I first started off by applying penetrating oil all over the bolt to help loosen it up.

Lucky for me, my hands aren't huge. Removing it was the hardest part. I tried several methods ... i first tried using my breaker bar (has an adjustable head) w/ a 12mm socket, but there is just too much free play.

I then go out to autozone (very close by) and buy a universal joint for $10. That **** has too much play too!

The next morning, I went out and bought CRAFTSMAN tools ... first i bought a 10" socket wrench with an adjustable head and a 12mm CRAFSTMAN socket for it. The freeplay was significantly reduced but for some reason it still wasn't working. At the same time , I had bought a 12mm crafstman socket for my 1/2" drive breaker bar.

THAT DID THE TRICK. The breaker bar + craftsman 12mm socket cracked the bolt loose and then with a 12mm wrench, i was able to open it up.

with my hands, i was able to unscrew it smoothly and remove everything.

Here are some pics:

engine bay to start with:


brand new knock sensor from Pinnacle Nissan ($79 SHIPPED) it is OEM and says made from Japan ... nothing about Bosch on it. Do the "generic" knock sensors have bosch written on it??


original knock sensor removed - 190k miles!


cracked!

 

tools I used ... breaker bar worked in the end. CRAFTSMAN = no free play! trust me on this..



I used a voltmeter to test both old and new knock sensor:

NEW:


OLD:



knock sensor connector ... to remove the knock sensor from it, you have to remove the pin that's around of it with a flat-head screwdriver and it just slips right off. I wish I figured that one out before trying tho haha, cracked the edge but didn't make a difference in the end.




hopefully this gives an idea to some of those who have yet to change their sensors. ..


results? DAMN haha , car feels preppy and alot more responsive. My hesitation has disappeared too. Definately worth it ... the funny thing is since i've had the car (almost 3 year) i think my sensor was bad! Time to go back and get another dyno at the end of the month

 

This should go in the stickies somewhere. Helpful for people like me that doesn't know too much about car maintenance.
nice job nadir.

 

BTW are you 5spdor auto?

 

I'm starting to wonder if KS are overtorque'd from the factory causing them to crack? Good write-up, its good that you mentioned that pin to remove the harness. I tried to pull mine out and pulled the wires from the harness and had to reassemble it.

 

How hard did you tighten it?

 

Seems like a lot of bad KS have cracked outer casings. Maybe just coincidence though.

 

I drive a 5-spd. I didn't really notice the power lag .. just alot of hesitation which prompted me to finally check the sensor harness and the ECU for codes. Should have done it a long time ago ...

the last time I dynoed (last year), my numbers were:

161.5 HP / 165.6 torque ... they sorta messeed up and ran the numbers in 3rd gear, it could have been higher.

Everyone at the meet had said those were pretty good numbers for such a high-mileage engine (165k mi. at the time) with old sparkplugs ... mods were just HAI / greddy catback.

I'm going to get another dyno at the end of the month and see what the difference is.




as far as tightening back, there was NO WAY i coudl get my torque wrench in there. I hand-tightened it, but i made sure not to over-tighten it in fear of cracking it again. It was a real pain trying to turn that bolt in the first place. .. if 15-20lb of torque is required, i feel like it was over-tightened from factory.

 

Nice. How long did shipping take? They say usually 24-48 hours, but it will probably be longer for me (I'm in Canada). I just ordered one from Pinnacle Nissan too. 79.00$ shipped too (even in Canada). Awesome price.

I verified the part numbers and the one Pinnacle Nissan sells is 22060-30P00A, while the OEM one that normally sells is 22060-30P00. Just no "A". It does the same job and I doubt there's any difference. 79$ shipped is a steal.

 

yeah it's the same thing - just not in a NISSAN box.

 

Ok, so your old knock sensor did not register on the ohmmeter at all, judging by your photo? I just tried to measure the resistance of my knock sensor using the method described by kevlo (http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...20&postcount=7) and couldn't get my multimeter to read a THING. I assumed that even a dead KS would register with SOMETHING so I though maybe I was doing it wrong....

If my KS is totally dead then I definitely want to get in on the Pinnacle special!

 

did you try using one of those bending joints? those work really well with extensions in tight spaces.

 

by bending joint, you mean the U-Joint?? I did purchase that and try .. no luck - too much free play.


VQuick - yeah, the voltmeter didn't even register at all so it was completely screwed up. You'll probably find a crack in your knock sensor too.


Jump on the pinnacle deal!

 

Nice write up. Should be included with the KS info in the stickies.

 

great write-up. thanks a lot, this will be very helpful..

 

great thread. agree- sticky this.

 

Looked at this http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507 and it's 10x better than what you posted. Guess what it's also in the STICKY and it actually shows you and tells you how to do it.

 

i've seen that - i love frank's website.


i wasn't aware of any competition



i took pics of what I thought would be helpful for ORG members - to ADD to what's been already out there. jesus dude grow up


edit: if you actually take the time to read my post vs. frank's write-up, you will see differences.

 

Relax, it was a free bump so that all the newbfarts see that it's already in the FAQs while reading this.

 

In New Zealand the Nissan KS costs $340 (including discount) so about $USD 248... Is the Bosch KS that I've briefly seen mentioned the same part or an inferior one, does anyone have partcode or price?

Don't want to ship one from US incase its killed on the way and then warrenty hassles

 

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=2484


at the bottom, you'll see a "live help online" .... you can chat with them and ask them if they can ship it to you.

According to the threads I've read online, the Bosch knock sensor is the exact same as OEM.

 

i used that site when i had to change my ks, but i agree this one also has some useful information. they're both good, and props to this guy for going to the time to put his pics and info on as well.

 

Actually, It informed me on something I wasn't aware of, I'll shoot for using the tools he used instead of anything else.

5k posts of negativity what a waste of bandwidth.

 

Can someone please post the pictures at the beginning of this thread. I saw the link in the FAQ for the knock sensor at motorvate, but mine doesn't exactly look like that. There is a small, round panel where the sensor is located in the picture. There is another link that doesn't work anymore, so if anyone has that saved, that would also be great. If anyone in Dallas/Fort Worth can help me replace the knock sensor, please contact me at pavan87@yahoo.com or at (817) 875-8475. I can compensate you for your time. Thanks.

 

i'll find the pics and repost them tonite

 

pics dont work

 

alright guys, i rehosted the pics to something a bit more permanent so it will stay for a long while.

good luck

 

Great post...I agree it would be nice to add to the stickies section.

 

this is very helpfull where was this about 2 weeks ago when i changed mine haha

 

thats how they go bad.. iv never seen a bad sensor without cracking.. u have to remember that the material inside is piezoelectric... meaning that if is displaced by a crack int he casing it will not work anymore

 

Hey nadir_s, did you get a CEL or you just decided to put the ECU into diag mode?

 

Good stuff. I like the pics.

-Peter-

 

I never got a CEL ... just hesitation at WOT.

However, when I did run it in diag mode, the code appeared.

 

hmmm...maybe i'll need to pull the codes as well

What kind of hesitation are you describing? ('cause i don't think i'd notice)

 

2nd, 3rd gear ... after 3k rpm, u notice hesitation as you accelerate. Also gas mileage goes down... ie instead of 400 miles per tank, i'd average 350-360 mi.

 

so after 3krpm, it would stiill keep going but do so slower? as far as mileage goes, i never got more that 270miles out of a tank (but i'm 100% city, and my trips are 7min short)