Hacked air box = better performance than stock air box?
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 737
From: Minneapolis,MN
Originally Posted by DAVE Sz
You're a dumbass and a clown. You're a dumbass clown. The guy you quoted was pointing out to some moron that measuring power by listening to your tires squeal was pathetic and not right. Until next time 
I would be mad, but i had to laugh at that.
That moron was me.
Well, perhaps a further explaination is necessary.
I love my Maxima's "off the line" power, which I lost when I messed with my intake.
I give you my promise I will never use the tire reference again.
Is calling someone a dumbass permitted on Maxima.org?
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
trust me custom intakes like that has been done... several times matter of fact, dont waste your time. its just an intake
Yes, it has been done before, and it is called an OOGLIE intake, and it does work. I am not trying to re-invent the wheel here, by any means. I am just modding my wheels like everyone else just for the fun of it.
Chill.
Originally Posted by deezo
What I ddon't understand is why people continue to think that there is hot air under the hood while driving at high speeds. Around town is a different story.
It's the "somewhere in between" that people complain about. Somewhere along the way from 0-60mph, or 0-60ft, there is hot air coming in, followed by warm air, then cooler air. I think it would help everyone to know, quantitatively, what is meant by "Hot air" and "Cold air."
Here in Florida, "cold air" is anything below 90 degrees! :-)
The name of the game is increasing air density, and not air flow, per se. In other words, there are only two factors to think about: (1) the air density that you can create in a fixed volume with variable temperature, or (2) the air pressure that you can create in a fixed volume with fixed temperature.
Imagine a container with a fixed volume, like a big, empty soda bottle. Now, add a fixed quantity of "cold air." The colder the air, the more dense it is, the less pressure it will exert against the walls of the container, and the less room it will take up inside. The "empty room" left over allows it to be filled with more air until the pressure inside the container matches the pressure outside of it.
Now, add a fixed quantity of "hot air" to a comparable container. Heated air expands, is less dense, causes air molecules to move faster which exerts more pressure on the container walls, and consequently, fills the container fully.
The only way to match the air density of a container filled with cold air is to increase air pressure into a comparable container without raising the temperature.
In other words, compress the air!
Think about a scuba tank. You are not going to fill up a scuba tank simply by increasing the rate of air flow into it. You have to be able to exert enough pressure on the air flow to overcome the existing pressure inside the tank. That is how a ram air system is supposed to work.
Simply cutting a hole into the stock box is not going to increase the air pressure going into it. It may increase the air flow, it may also lower the air temperature; HOWEVER, it could also raise it since the air inside the plastic housing may be cooler than the air outside it.
Whart happens with stock setups is that they often create areas of negative pressure by forcing the air to be turned at too many angles. When you drill a small hole in a stock box, you may eliminate some of the existing negative pressure which would increase air flow. Making the hole larger does not translate into more gain because you may be countering the effect by adding hotter air.
Remember, air flows from high pressure areas to low pressure areas, and from hot areas to cool areas.
Increasing the length of an intake may create one or two extra bonuses: (1) lowering the temperature of the incoming air, and/or (2) increasing the air pressure at the end entering into the throttle body. Just as a longer tube amplifies sound, so too, does it amplify the air in terms of pressure.
Let's not forget that the throttle body exerts some negative air pressure of its own, without which the air on the outside would never enter into it when the car is idling at rest.
Air intakes may seem like simple things, but they are a little more involved than that.
If you live in Los Angeles, there's no such thing as driving at high speeds anymore. Even the freeways are so congested that its stop and go. I do mostly city driving and I rarely take the freeways, usually in the weekends if that. My commute is 5 miles each way, no need for highspeed driving. My intake mod suites my driving conditions and gives me a little more throttle responsiveness.
Originally Posted by sonicrunch
Is calling someone a dumbass permitted on Maxima.org?
...................
Originally Posted by Dave B
I'll make this easy hopefully we'll never have to see any of these posts EVER again 
1) The Frankencar Intake is just like the Stillen/JWT "POP"-style intakes except that the Frankencar/Berk intakes comes with a midpipe that replaces the OEM resonator that sits inbetween MAF sensor and throttle body. The Frankencar/Berk intakes have gotten the nickname "hybrid". A Stillen/JWT or any other POP setup can be converted to a hybrid by simply adding a midpipe. There is nothing remotely special about a Frankencar intake. Nothing.
2) A midpipe has yet to be documented to make any power gains, but it does introduce quite a bit more intake noise and a generally deeper sound. Most owners tend to like this induction noise under 1/2 to full throttle. The sound emmulates the sound of an Acura NSX.
3) The Injen intake is not a CAI. It pulls air from the drivers side front portion of the car just to the side of the raditor. IMO, this is probably the worst place to be drawing air. Also, the Injen piping is routed close to very hot engine components (manifold, head, block, tranny) which will heat soak the nice shiny intake piping.
4) The Cattman/Place Racing/Warpspeed CAIs are the only true CAIs on the market. These setups pull air from an area that is sealed off from the engine bay. These intakes pull in ambient air. These intake require cutting a 3.2" diameter hole near the battery to route the piping. Many owners are afraid to cut into their car for fear of resale problems. The truth is a good cut is not noticable because the hole sits in a location that is shielded by the battery and wiring harnesses.
5) The hacked airbox is when you cut out the lower airbox to bring in more air. This results in more sound, POP intake power, and the introduction of hot engine bay air.
6) The POP/hybrid/hacked airbox intakes are assumed to make better upper rpm power at the expense of lower rpm power. "Boggy" throttle response, especially in hot weather is common with these intakes. The lack of throttle response is most likely due to removing the pressurization effects of the stock intake tract and drawing in hot engine bay air.
7) The CAI intakes are assumed to make better lowend and mid rpm power. The CAI intakes don't seem to suffer from the "bogginess" problems because of the 14" longer intake tract which is able to store a column of air and in a sense keep the air pressurized, less turbulent, and cooler.
8) Dynos and track results have proven that all the intake setups POP/hybrid/Injen/CAI/hacked all perform basically the same assuming the air outside is cold and the engine is cooled off.
9) Hybrid/POP/hacked/Injen intakes pull in underhood air therefore in the summer these intakes can be drawing in air that's over 140 degrees. A CAI will be pulling in ambient air. It has been shown that the engine bay air cools down to near ambient once the car is moving at 30mph+ for a few minutes. The problem is the temp sensor and knock sensor typically will detect the extremely hot air coming in therefore from a stop the car's acceleration can feel weak in 1st gear. At the track this can cause a much slower 330' if the engine is not cooled.
10) In the end it comes down with what you're will to pay and what kind of driveability you want.
Dave
1) The Frankencar Intake is just like the Stillen/JWT "POP"-style intakes except that the Frankencar/Berk intakes comes with a midpipe that replaces the OEM resonator that sits inbetween MAF sensor and throttle body. The Frankencar/Berk intakes have gotten the nickname "hybrid". A Stillen/JWT or any other POP setup can be converted to a hybrid by simply adding a midpipe. There is nothing remotely special about a Frankencar intake. Nothing.
2) A midpipe has yet to be documented to make any power gains, but it does introduce quite a bit more intake noise and a generally deeper sound. Most owners tend to like this induction noise under 1/2 to full throttle. The sound emmulates the sound of an Acura NSX.
3) The Injen intake is not a CAI. It pulls air from the drivers side front portion of the car just to the side of the raditor. IMO, this is probably the worst place to be drawing air. Also, the Injen piping is routed close to very hot engine components (manifold, head, block, tranny) which will heat soak the nice shiny intake piping.
4) The Cattman/Place Racing/Warpspeed CAIs are the only true CAIs on the market. These setups pull air from an area that is sealed off from the engine bay. These intakes pull in ambient air. These intake require cutting a 3.2" diameter hole near the battery to route the piping. Many owners are afraid to cut into their car for fear of resale problems. The truth is a good cut is not noticable because the hole sits in a location that is shielded by the battery and wiring harnesses.
5) The hacked airbox is when you cut out the lower airbox to bring in more air. This results in more sound, POP intake power, and the introduction of hot engine bay air.
6) The POP/hybrid/hacked airbox intakes are assumed to make better upper rpm power at the expense of lower rpm power. "Boggy" throttle response, especially in hot weather is common with these intakes. The lack of throttle response is most likely due to removing the pressurization effects of the stock intake tract and drawing in hot engine bay air.
7) The CAI intakes are assumed to make better lowend and mid rpm power. The CAI intakes don't seem to suffer from the "bogginess" problems because of the 14" longer intake tract which is able to store a column of air and in a sense keep the air pressurized, less turbulent, and cooler.
8) Dynos and track results have proven that all the intake setups POP/hybrid/Injen/CAI/hacked all perform basically the same assuming the air outside is cold and the engine is cooled off.
9) Hybrid/POP/hacked/Injen intakes pull in underhood air therefore in the summer these intakes can be drawing in air that's over 140 degrees. A CAI will be pulling in ambient air. It has been shown that the engine bay air cools down to near ambient once the car is moving at 30mph+ for a few minutes. The problem is the temp sensor and knock sensor typically will detect the extremely hot air coming in therefore from a stop the car's acceleration can feel weak in 1st gear. At the track this can cause a much slower 330' if the engine is not cooled.
10) In the end it comes down with what you're will to pay and what kind of driveability you want.
Dave
Originally Posted by sonicrunch
I let Sprint know you are doing a fine job.
Originally Posted by DAVE Sz
You actually reported me and left one of those pointless remarks? What a childish, gutless, panty wearing, *** you are.
Look, another post like that and your gone for a week.
You had several directions to go with yor post, you picked the wrong one.
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