Changed oil to castrol gtx 20w50. Reset the computer. Had problem with overdrive disengaging did the computer check on that with the ignition key on off drive park drive 2 etc...and everything was all clear. 0302 light has not come on with 200 miles of regular driving since everything was reset.

 

congrats but i wouldnt declare victory just yet!

 

I am calling for a complete victory. I am so glad I do not have to install the other valves.

 

i changed my soleniod and cleaned out my passages and i still get that damn code....i wish just changing the oil would fix it

 

Where have you been hiding Armelius? I haven't seen you post for some time now.

What possessed you to use 20W50 oil? I could see using 10W30 in Florida, but not 20W50.

 

Why not 20w50? When I bought my Pathfinder in LA the Nissan service manager was running 20w50 in it.

 

I'm too lazy to get my owner's manual. But in referring to the Haynes manual, there are only two recommended motor oil weights - SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30. The 10W30 is fine to use as low as 0 degrees fahrenheit or -18 degrees Celsius. 5W30 should be used for anything colder than that. I would be inclined to read the stickies in the Fluids & Lubricants forum or go to BITOG.

Personally, I wouldn't use 20W50 and anyone who does would be in the vast minority.

 

I have used it before in both the pathfinder and maxima. What would be the problem with using it? Seems like it would be better for this hot and humid climate.

When I first started getting the code it looked like it was directly related to the knock sensor fault (0306 or 308). I thought if I replaced the ks then both would go away. Perhaps the checking the OD code helped erase the 302 code. I don't know. All I know is it's working.

Perhaps when I last used 20w50 oil is when I got the trouble codes so I quit using it.

 

Armelius, read the 2nd sticky (top of page1) in the Fluids and Lubricants forum for recommended oil and weights. 20W50 isn't even on the list. It is the wrong weight and viscosity oil for a Nissan Maxima, pure and simple. Get that crap out of there!

 

20W-50 Above 20° F Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.

Looks like it wouldn't be harmful.

 

I don't know where you dug this up, but none of it applies to you.

 

thats like the worses oil. but oh well your car haha

 

hehe doesnt mean he knows whats hes talking about.go to one of the mechanics.

 

Let's see the guy knows more than the mechanics. He has been with Nissan for over 15 years and is a good friend. That doesn't mean I let his mechanics work on my car. But he had nearly everything done to the Pathfinder when I bought it. He later bought two Expeditions and a corvette, I think he knows something about Nissans. If you can go to a Nissan service manager and he clears your airbag light constant on for no charge while he is at work then you probably found an honest guy. Before he became service manager he sold new Nissans for five years. 20 years at Nissan is pretty good.

I dug it up on the Castrol site murdoch.

 

But the comment on the Castrol site was not specific to your Nissan Maxima. The 20W50 oil is too heavy. It is common knowledge on this website that the best dino oil you can use for your car is Castrol GTX 5W30. So far you've got the brand right, but not the weight.

If the owner's manual, the sticky and the Haynes manual do not recommend 20W50, I fail to see what would possess you to think it is the best dino oil for you to use.

 

Honestly Ive seen 2050 put in some nissan maximas before.... his car will be just fine just decrease in gas mileage..i think its comparable to running 87 octane in your car it is not reccomended yet the car will still run and drive fine

 

I understand but why bother using it when there are better alternatives and certainly price isn't a consideration.

 

If i am correct I think the 2050 has temporaily solved his CEL...I agree murdoch id run the 5w50 if i must run 50 wieght but to each his own!

 

Whatever! I doubt the 20W50 had anything to do with it.

 

to each his own but i'd be willing to bet that his engine will be rattling very soon. I've used Mobil 1 5w30 for 448k miles and engine still runs great with heavy abuse.

 

You car has 448k miles. WTF?

 

These engines will not be hurt by running 20w50.

 

You are the one full of crap. I just checked the manual and 20w50 is AOK for climates above 50 degrees f.

 

I checked too, but 5W30 is the recommended oil for all temperature ranges according to my owners manual. The 20W50 is ok to use above 50 fahrenheit but is not recommended.

There is less friction at start up with a 5W30 oil, pure and simple. Keep running that oil in your car for 5 years and report back to us about its benefits.

For interests sake, what octane gas do you use?

 

Lately I have been switching from around 92 to 87. I will probably just stick to 87. The manual says you can use it as long as you don't hear a knock.

 

I thought as much! A true Maxima enthusiast who wants to optimize vehicle performance by running 87 octane gas and 20W50 oil.

 

I still average 26.7 city/highway driving. Runs smooth. Maybe you get subquality gas in Canada, here it's all about the same unless you live close to the mountains or Mexico.

 

Knock sensors are groaning.

 

No knock and 0302 code has went away. Will be filling up soon. If I put 5w30 back in there and 0302 comes back what would be your judgment call then?

 

Actually the sub-quality gas is in the US, not Canada. That is why so many people complain about their performance on 89 octane in the US. The only poor performance I have had using 89 octane is from filling up at a Chevron station in Blaine, Washington about 2 months ago.

I am currently running 90 octane recently introduced by Husky. I have probably used 89 octane about 3/4 of the time, with no adverse effects, and I've owned the car since day 1. I run Chevron 92 about 1/4 the time and don't notice any difference in performance.

Canadian gasoline has more additives than US gasoline. Canadians constantly complain when travelling in the US about how crappy the 87 octane gas is.

I wouldn't use 87 octane if I were you.

 

Not to believe you!

 

Well I have been having this 0302 code for nearly six months, used to have the knock sensor code but replaced it right after was getting both codes. I have new egr valve but never installed it, just been resetting the computer.

It's either the 20w50 oil or checking the overdrive code that got rid of the code. I was just about to put on the egr valve too. Bought the gaskets and everything. So glad I don't have to mess with it. If it returns I will let you know.

 

Good luck! Hopefully it doesn't come back.

 

Different viscosity oil will NOT fix the EGR issue. It was purely coincidental. If there really was a fault with the EGR system in the first place the CEL will be back...guaranteed.

 

Usually I would go about 80 miles city driving before it would return. Highway I could go up to 300 miles if I remember correctly. It would come on faster if I used the airconditioner for some reason. Always seem to come on when I was at a stop light or stopped.

So far I have been in heavy traffic over three times with AC on and nothing. The only thing I did was with the oil change and overdrive check because the overdrive went off by itself about two or three times and I couldn't engage it back to overdrive.

 

I would like to know if your 0302 has come back. Or have you checked your codes when there isn't a CEL? Usually 0302 manifests itself as a ghost code for a long time before it lights up.

0302 on a older Maxima normally points to a clogged EGR tube(s) or bad EGR valve, I got the 0302 code for a long time with my car until I swapped out my stock manifold for a 2K VI. In doing so I inspected the EGR tubing and was amazed at how much crap builds up in those tubes. Ever since I switched to the VI and have been using cleaned up EGR piping the code is gone. My recommendation is to remove the upper intake manifold and the two smaller EGR pipes. Clean them all out and reinstall with new OEM gaskets, also you might as well change the EGR valve while you are in there. All the older 4th gen EGR tubes that I’ve seen have all been clogged with carbon. So it’s not something that’s specific to my car, it’s like cholesterol build-up in people’s arties...

 

20W50 Is thicker and thus better in a moderately work engine to reduce the amount of oil seeping past the rings and valves. It does, however, reduce hp by a small amount. In floridas climate there is no real reason not to use it except for the power issue.

 

What I found funny is how he said his mechanic got 2 Expeditions (was it 2..I don't remember) and a Corvette. So he has to know something about Nissan...How does owning 2 (or 3) American cars mean he'll know something about Nissans LOL

 

I agree. Burned off engine oil is a good source of EGR clogging carbon. Interestingly enough my '96 has been burning some oil for a while now, especially synthetic oil. I haven't recently checked the EGR piping but im sure its slowly building up again...

 

Why don’t you read his post again and not put it down. He was explaining what the guy does and how divers he is by working for Nissan and owning different types of vehicles.
Grow up little man!