ancientwiseone

I do my driving like always, and suddenly today, when I was driving it, when I press on the accelerator, it will go up a little bit then the RPM drops to almost 0 and then I would have to step on it all the way for the car to move. While I was driving, it happened every time i needed to accelerate. While I got to a stop sign, once I step on the gas, my car completely goes off and it gets to the stage of just turning on the radio and not starting the car. When I tried to start up the car, it wouldnt start until couple minutes later, and then the car does it again when I get to a complete stop. Does anyone know what is wrong with my car? Would appreciate some help.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Is the check engine light on?

96GLEMAX

Have you checked the charging system? Sounds like there's not enough juice to run the coil packs. Altenator or Battery?

Hovik

hey.. im having the same problem with my car... my battery is new. one of my friends had the same thing going on on his BMW E34 and he said that he changed the fuel pump and it started working perfect.. im still thinking what to do with mine. but when ur about to come to a stop (stop sign or red light) put the car on N and keep the rpm 1.5 and it won't die, and when ur driving don't push the car, drive like a grandma... If anybdy here had the same problem tell us what it would be plz?

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

When's the last time you did a 60k mile service on it?

Hovik

well i got mine well over 60K, so i don't know what the previous owner has done and what not, but we opened and checked the spakplugs, they were fine, air filter is new, battery is new.

kasemodz

iTrader: (1)

hmm hovik, does your engine stop or does it go in "neutral"? When you accelerrate do you get a jerk or something?

Hovik

not always, but sometimes i get a jerk and the engine dies. i got stuck in the middle of intersections like 10 times already untill i figuered out i could put the car to N and just keep the rpm to 1.5... generally its very random, sometimes it dies when its idling, sometimes when i go over 2.5 rpm, sometimes it doesn't even wanna start in the mornings for like 3-5 minutes.

hasei

iTrader: (5)

I had similar symptoms when a voltage regulator in alternator died though in my case I couldn't go on and just had to park somewhere and let it idle until the engine stopped completely. I went home, came back with a multimeter, and measured the voltage at battery. It was like 11.5V at restart after about 30 minutes the engine died, and kept decreasing as the engine idles.

Hovik

but did that happen like every time you drive? the day before yesterday i drove alot and it didn't die at all, then yesterday it died like 3 times in like 15 minutes, and today i drove to work it was working ok, no problem. + im experiencing alota power loss, i mean i don't know how much or what the reason would be, but the car drives alot slower than be4.

hasei

iTrader: (5)

No, it happened only once. The condition was much worse than what you have been experiencing. I had no choice and the car was towed immediately to a repair shop after the incident.

Hovik

then i guess its not it.. thanx anyway.. c'mon you maxima PROs.. i can't believe nobody had the same thing be4 and found the solution!!.. i can't really spend $$$ for diagnostics and all that crap to end up with a list of parts that the mechanic thinks i need to change (at least half of which, we all know, is just to charge more money).

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Well someone had asked earlier if the CEL is lit! Noone answered him. This is the first clue, if its lit, and it should tell you what is wrong when you pull the code from the ECU.

Second, when's the last time you did any maintenance on the car, ie: replace plugs, check the ignition coils for split boot and wear, cleaned the TB and IACV, checked/replace PCV valve, and changed fuel filter? All this is part of the 60k mile service. If you guys don't know what this is, read the stickies.

ancientwiseone

it is not throwing me a CEL light. I changed my sparkplugs with bosch platinum 2. I also changed the fuel filter also, but never got the chance to do the 60k service. Once that happened, I took apart my intake and cleaned the throttle body. After that, everything seems to work ok.

CleanMAX98

iTrader: (5)

thats your problem, bosch is shytty for imports, although they are good for american cars, get some NGK Plats

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

DING DING DING DING! We have the winner. Pull that crap and treat your VQ to soem NGK platinum plugs or NGK V-power copper plugs. Then report back to us.

ancientwiseone

Where would be the best place to find these plugs for a good price?

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Look for the June Special at Midway Nissan in the Group Deals section - PM Dan and he'll take care of you.

Hovik

i have NGKs.. just checked them, normal condition.. air filter is new too. YES the ECU light is on... going to get it checked soon.. but.. lol.. i was having overheating problems, and i think the light is on for that. but im goin to get it checked.

beefy23b/97

Don't over look your cat; they can get clogged and cause you too loose all your power.

dookie2365

this happened 2 me alot. mechanics fixed a wire that was fried running to the computer and havent had a problem since then

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

read the stickies - you can check what codes are stored in the ECU yourself....

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Bosch will make your Maxima run like crap. Leave that to the german junkers. NGK V-Power coppers all the way.

maximavqpower97

iTrader: (3)

thats your coil packs or you need a tune up.

Mitch3878

Check your TPS. Same issue w/ mine and it is the TPS.

Hovik

how do you check TPS?.. or you just change it?

Chickan

iTrader: (12)

I still think it sounds like alternator from what you are describing.

Pull the ECU codes yourself, and also take a multimeter to your battery and +/- terminals on your alternator, see if both are ~13.5-14.0V.

Mitch3878

Check it w/ an ohm meter. The threads in the 4g how to, will be the best to guide you through this. I ended up having to get a new one. Watch the screw on the far side (you will see what I mean) it is a pain to remove w/o killing the threads or the screw itself.

Hovik

i'll deff. check that.. but that reason im saying its not the alternator, cuz when the car dies and im trying to start it, the starter turns perfect, it just doesn't get fuel.. sometimes it can go like 4-5 minutes not starting and all that time i'll be turning the key... so if it was my alternator, my battery should die...

Mitch3878

everything you have described has happened to me in just about every intersection in Monmouth county NJ. The car dies through a turn ( throttle ) i throw the car in N and crank it up. Sometimes the car will not turn over for about 1/2 mins. This is not good being i am sitting in the middle of traffic. turned out to be the TPS. i also thought that some fuel additives would cause the same problem. Our cars are tempermental if not treated like right with the right parts and fuel. Hope this helps, let me know how you did.

Mitch

Hovik

i'll deff check that, and appreciate your help. im going to read the ECU tonight after work, so i guess if it is the TPS it'll tell me. how difficult was it to change the TPS? expensive?

Mitch3878

The only difficulty I found was the screw that many other orgers have describes as being a major pain to reach and loosen. Just watch the parts you get. Trust no one and verify every part you have in hand. I would not even trust the dealership, this forum has better troubleshooting mechanics than just about all of the dealerships I have visited. Have fun.

Mitch

Hovik

ok... i just check the ecu.. i have 2 codes.. 01-01 ............caused by the Camshaft Position Sensor (Phase). This sensor is located on the engine front cover facing the camshaft sprocket. It detects the cylinder number signal. The Engine Control Module uses this signal to control spark plug firing order and also to sequence the fuel injectors correctly. If the CPS is bad the ECM will fire the plugs at the wrong time, or not fire them at all. This would account for a no-fire symptom.

and 03-04 which is the knock sensor.. so what do you guys think?

MaximumAlex

ughhh i got the same freakin problem. 1997 GXE 125k. For a while car would shut off only when i i shift it to R or D sometimes. Now it just stoll's on me when ever, sometime even while driving which is dangerous. Went to my mechanic this morning..like on purpose it worked great there, shift to reverse no prob, drives perfectly, computer diagnostics says no poblems detected. As soon as i pull by my house it shuts off all over again, as i try to start it it starts but rpm drops immideately and it drive with much less power. What could be there problem???? i was going to change the fuel pump but i get no CEL on so i cant just go and change everything.
Also i decided to see whats going on with my spark plugs, i replaced them maybe only 4 months ago and put 6k on them NGK Vpower coopers, as i took them out the end that gives spark is all smoky with black 'sulfur'. I dont know if that part of my car shutting off problem but it didnt look too good.
I really dont know what to do ECU shows no code, while at Mechanic car ran perefectly so he said he cant help. Im really confused and have no idea what to do and what to look at. (gas filter, air filter, starter, rear o2 sensor all recently replaced)