s2cmpugh

Well I want to thank everyone for the help and I have two "new" rear calipers on the maxima now. They are actually re-man nissan ones I got from advance auto parts. I also managed to get that damn ebrake clip out too, it was kinda stuck, but I did get it out.

As far as the bleeding brakes goes here is what I did. Replaced both rear calipers and attached brake line (while making sure master cyclider was filled up), then I bled the one furthest from the master cylinder (passenger), then the driver side. I didn't touch the fronts b/c I didn't do anything to them. The pedel feels different now, not soft, but not rock hard either. It does feel a bit softer than before, but I think this is b/c my rear brakes actually work now and work smoothly. Was this process ok?

I did road test the car and everything seemed to be ok and it stopped just fine.

Bobo

Have the front pads ever been changed? If not, you should bleed the front brakes too and get that old brake fluid out of there. It may pay dividends on the longevity of your front calipers as brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture over time which adversely affects the condition of the calipers.

s2cmpugh

The pads have been changed w/ new rotors, but I never bled the brakes. I know I should get that old stuff out of there, but I am kinda short on time. I think the car tops quicker now, not much but a little, and the pedal feels pretty good, not soft, not hard.

Bobo

WTF, are you saying you personally replaced the front pads and rotors but never bled the brakes at the time. That doesn't make sense. If you took it to a shop, they would have bled the brakes at that time. If it is the former, I suggest you make time to bleed the front brakes this weekend.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

rmurdoch - although you probably should bleed the brakes when you replace pads/rotors, etc. it isn't necessary procedurally. The piston can be retracted without opening the bleeder screw (as long as the cap is off the master cylinder) - so no air is introduced into the brake system. Then you slap in new pads, put the caliper back down, put the cap back on the master cylinder and drive away not knowing any better. I wouldn't take it for granted that shops are actually intentionally bleeding the brakes for you to replace the old fluid. I know the local dealer charges you seperately for that, and call it a brake flush. I guess the bottom line is that "bleeding" the brakes to rid the system of air is altogether different from flushing the brake system to make sure you get rid of the old fluid. Just my 2 cents.