Car shakes when at a stop
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 41
Originally Posted by BatKeith
Whenever I take my car in somewhere for the periodic checkups, I tell them the engine idles roughly and they say they've fixed it (various simple reasons like plugs or PCV valve), but they never do.
I kinda had a shaking problem at idle on my auto maxima. Stopped in D my RPM would sometimes go as low as 500 and it would slighly vibrate, nothing that bad. Read some things and decided to do the thing I thought was best, which was to clean the throttle body. Took off my intake and all that and cleaned the throttle body with a clean cloth, toothbrush and some throttle body cleaner spray thing. And I also put some Lucas injector / fuel system cleaner stuff in my gas tank. Ever since, my car now idles flawlessly at like a constant 650 rpm or so. I guess cleaning the TB did it for me. Or maybe that Lucas stuff instantly helped.
Originally Posted by BatKeith
I've brought this up on the board before, but I never got responses like this.
Something to consider, also, is that I don't feel my A/C is kicking in very hard. If you go to auto.yahoo.com and look up our 4th gen maximas, they mention a "wiring harness" on the right side of the car as having reliability problems - the wires fray and cause rough idle and weak A/C performance. Again, no mechanic I go to has ever mentioned this to me, and I don't even know what the hell they mean by "right side" of the car.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2
[B]Hello this is my first post but I've been reading all the great info for a while. If I get out of line slap me I'll learn fast.
I run a 95 GXE Pearl,,, I hade the damn shake problem as well felt like I got rear ended. I found it to be my #4 coil and I also changed my KS,, This and reseting the codes on by way of the ECU solved that problem but I still have had some sever low end power problems,, I read the injecter comits and went to the store yesterday and and bout Injector cleaner I put it in with a 1/4 tank left.. I've been about 50 miles and it fill as though it is picking up some lost power.
But one thing I noticed and was wondering if its the same for all of us is that whene I start the car cold I believethey call that open loop it runs great but as soon as it's warmed up it starts the severe boging or hesitation.
I'm hoping that the cleaner cures this but I cant say why it would.
Dose any one know what sensers are by passed before warm up???
And by the way my check engine light is not on.
I run a 95 GXE Pearl,,, I hade the damn shake problem as well felt like I got rear ended. I found it to be my #4 coil and I also changed my KS,, This and reseting the codes on by way of the ECU solved that problem but I still have had some sever low end power problems,, I read the injecter comits and went to the store yesterday and and bout Injector cleaner I put it in with a 1/4 tank left.. I've been about 50 miles and it fill as though it is picking up some lost power.
But one thing I noticed and was wondering if its the same for all of us is that whene I start the car cold I believethey call that open loop it runs great but as soon as it's warmed up it starts the severe boging or hesitation.
I'm hoping that the cleaner cures this but I cant say why it would.
Dose any one know what sensers are by passed before warm up???
And by the way my check engine light is not on.
Disco Biscuit
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,790
Originally Posted by MaximumAlex
how do i chek it and where is located?
thanks
thanks
Originally Posted by sweetO'95
[B]But one thing I noticed and was wondering if its the same for all of us is that whene I start the car cold I believethey call that open loop it runs great but as soon as it's warmed up it starts the severe boging or hesitation.
I'm hoping that the cleaner cures this but I cant say why it would.
Dose any one know what sensers are by passed before warm up???
And by the way my check engine light is not on.
I'm hoping that the cleaner cures this but I cant say why it would.
Dose any one know what sensers are by passed before warm up???
And by the way my check engine light is not on.
The ECU also uses the engine coolant temperature sensor and manifold absolute pressure) as well to decide how to set the fuel injector parameters and how much to open up the idle air control valve. The IACV is what causes differences in idle speeds when the car is cold versus when it is warm.
During a cold start, and as your engine warms up, the fuel/air mixture is made richer to compensate for the change in air temperature and density.
As for loops, what can throw the ECU into a loop is a vacuum leak, either at the MAP or the IACV, essentially confusing it as to when your engine is at operating temperature.
Two things you can do is (a) get your exhaust gasses analyzed, and (b) have your vacuum lines checked.
As for the "harness" mentioned below, this is the wiring harness that grounds ALL of the components of the AC system, and stretches from the right side of the engine bay to the left.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,327
My car has been doing this too, though I haven't bothered with it. Usually it's because too much air is getting in the intake. I thought it could be the injectors but I put injector cleaner in and not much results, though haven't ruled out it completely.
Could be MAF but I am pretty sure that it has to do with air intake not completely tight. I have duct tape around the plastic where it broke off. Having plastic around a hot engine just isn't acceptable to having a quality car. CAI looks like the next mod to me.
Could be MAF but I am pretty sure that it has to do with air intake not completely tight. I have duct tape around the plastic where it broke off. Having plastic around a hot engine just isn't acceptable to having a quality car. CAI looks like the next mod to me.
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 95
Here is something else to throw out there. I talked to the former service mgr of the dealership here. Because mine does not vibrate when cold, only operating temp, he had suggested that it is a problem with a sensor somewhere. When engine is cold ECU is disregarded engine runs with no help from it until it is warm, then info from various engine sensors comes into play.A bad sensor of some sort would explain why it vibrates as soon as engine is warm and ECU is working. Now which sensors? Possibly KS, coolant temp sensor, O2 sensors, hard to say! I guess I'll have to do the trial and error thing.
Originally Posted by tweeter007
Here is something else to throw out there. I talked to the former service mgr of the dealership here. Because mine does not vibrate when cold, only operating temp, he had suggested that it is a problem with a sensor somewhere. When engine is cold ECU is disregarded engine runs with no help from it until it is warm, then info from various engine sensors comes into play.A bad sensor of some sort would explain why it vibrates as soon as engine is warm and ECU is working. Now which sensors? Possibly KS, coolant temp sensor, O2 sensors, hard to say! I guess I'll have to do the trial and error thing.
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 95
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
"ECU is diregarded??" Yikes!! Now we know why he is a former service manager!
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2
Well Thanks for the info. as to what happens durring cold start,, I believe the Injector cleaner realy helped me out. I used the SeaFoam brand all in one can and I can honestly say that my car pulled strong all day regardles of Temp. So in conclusion for my 95 I changed plugs ( didn't make a deferance), KS I believe that helped a little and the #4 coil pack, at that point I had eliminated codes and the jerking,, but still bogged
down,,lastly Injectors that the leaner has seemed to correct. I'm leaving for work in a minute hope all runs well.
If most of your sensors are over looked during "cold Start" Can you use a broken thermastat so that your car never realy heats up all the way and possobly help eliminate or isolate possoble couses. I ran mine with a open thermastat for a full year because I never had time to change it and it always ran cool and very strong.
Thank you all for sharing your information and hope to see some of you at the next Dallas Show.
95 GXE Pearl/ Blk lth.
Cold Air
Ebach Springs /KYB GR2
2004 17" Max whls.
down,,lastly Injectors that the leaner has seemed to correct. I'm leaving for work in a minute hope all runs well.
If most of your sensors are over looked during "cold Start" Can you use a broken thermastat so that your car never realy heats up all the way and possobly help eliminate or isolate possoble couses. I ran mine with a open thermastat for a full year because I never had time to change it and it always ran cool and very strong.
Thank you all for sharing your information and hope to see some of you at the next Dallas Show.
95 GXE Pearl/ Blk lth.
Cold Air
Ebach Springs /KYB GR2
2004 17" Max whls.
Disco Biscuit
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,790
Originally Posted by Mr****s95SE
it cant be the KS or coilpacks. the tc makes more sense...
anyone know how much itd be to fix the TC?
anyone know how much itd be to fix the TC?
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 41
Originally Posted by sweetO'95
[B]Hello this is my first post but I've been reading all the great info for a while. If I get out of line slap me I'll learn fast.
I run a 95 GXE Pearl,,, I hade the damn shake problem as well felt like I got rear ended. I found it to be my #4 coil and I also changed my KS,, This and reseting the codes on by way of the ECU solved that problem but I still have had some sever low end power problems,, I read the injecter comits and went to the store yesterday and and bout Injector cleaner I put it in with a 1/4 tank left.. I've been about 50 miles and it fill as though it is picking up some lost power.
I run a 95 GXE Pearl,,, I hade the damn shake problem as well felt like I got rear ended. I found it to be my #4 coil and I also changed my KS,, This and reseting the codes on by way of the ECU solved that problem but I still have had some sever low end power problems,, I read the injecter comits and went to the store yesterday and and bout Injector cleaner I put it in with a 1/4 tank left.. I've been about 50 miles and it fill as though it is picking up some lost power.
Originally Posted by 95GLEPEARL
I think I may have jumped the gun. I reported that the shaking and jumping of the rpms was solved by a new injector, well today at a stop light it did it again, just once or twice but I was pisted. It didn't do it again but still, I am still getting a code that reads EVAP purge control valve/selenoid valve, I still haven't replaced this as it is $114 and I spent most of my money on the previous repair. 
I am going to attribute the jerking and **** to that. I will know next FRI when I can buy one and replace it.
I was driving around today and my cel came on so I checked it, front 02sensor, EVAP..., and cylinder 2 misfire. Well I'm pretty sure it is not the injector as I just removed it cleaned it and put new o-rings on it. I know its not the spark plug because they are relatively new and I checked it and it was fine. So that leaves the coil. I moved the #2 coil to the #6 cylinder so we will see if it misses on #2 or #6
The cel came on again after I did that but only showed the front 02 sensor, I'll have to wait and see if it shows a misfire, as for as the 02 sensor and the EVAP purge valve, I can't do anything about those until next THU.
HUNTER11 that is a sick looking max!! Mine is pearl also But I need clear corners and a spoiler. And some tight rims like yours.
Anyway, removing the IM was really not to difficult,(except a few bolts) It took me a few days because I had to work from 3pm to 11pm so I didn't have much time during the day. There was one day I had off I worked on the max from 10am to 5am the next day
And it didn't help that I had to drive 1 hour away from my house to go get a $4 ****ing TB gasket.
But really just:
-Remove air intake, I removed most of this in 2 large pieces
-Remove Throttle cables, two screws hold the bracket they are in, and unhook the cables(check your manual)
-Remove the Wiring Harness, there are a few metal brackets that hold the WH to the IM I think 7 or 8 screws, remove those, unplug all connectors and your good there.
-Remove the TB, disconnect hoses, throttle position sensor plug, vaccum
lines.
-Remove IACV, diconnect plugs, any vaccum lines, un-bolt.
-Remove all bolts connected to the IM, you have to do the front four in the reverse order of tightening(check the manual) then the two in back that attach to the rear of the IM then the two that attach the EGR valve guide tube, to the back of the IM near the IACV. Also brake booster hose and any others,(there are others) that you see.
Then you should be able to lift the IM off. You may need a new plenum gasket(IM). If you are removing the valve covers you will need new gaskets for them.
I got a gasket kit from AutoZone which had the Valve Cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, new grommets for the valve cover, I did have to buy TB gasket, the IACV gasket was good, and so was the plenum gasket.
There is lots of **** to clean out of all those parts!! In hind sight I should have removed some of the hoses that connected to these parts and cleaned them out too. If you want to check your Injectors while you have the IM off you will need new o-rings. I destroyed one injector pulling it out
and I found another that was all cracked and ready to die. SO I put all new ones in the rear so I wouldn't need to remove everything again.(hopefully)
All this is in the HAYNES manual, if you don't have one get one, and some more specific info(like about injectors) I got right here at the ORG.
If you have a couple of days to COMMIT to this and you get all of your supplies FIRST(gaskets, screws, cleaner, cleaner, cleaner, and anything else you may want or need.) it can probably be done in two days.
I am going to attribute the jerking and **** to that. I will know next FRI when I can buy one and replace it.I was driving around today and my cel came on so I checked it, front 02sensor, EVAP..., and cylinder 2 misfire. Well I'm pretty sure it is not the injector as I just removed it cleaned it and put new o-rings on it. I know its not the spark plug because they are relatively new and I checked it and it was fine. So that leaves the coil. I moved the #2 coil to the #6 cylinder so we will see if it misses on #2 or #6
The cel came on again after I did that but only showed the front 02 sensor, I'll have to wait and see if it shows a misfire, as for as the 02 sensor and the EVAP purge valve, I can't do anything about those until next THU.
HUNTER11 that is a sick looking max!! Mine is pearl also But I need clear corners and a spoiler. And some tight rims like yours.
Anyway, removing the IM was really not to difficult,(except a few bolts) It took me a few days because I had to work from 3pm to 11pm so I didn't have much time during the day. There was one day I had off I worked on the max from 10am to 5am the next day
And it didn't help that I had to drive 1 hour away from my house to go get a $4 ****ing TB gasket.But really just:
-Remove air intake, I removed most of this in 2 large pieces
-Remove Throttle cables, two screws hold the bracket they are in, and unhook the cables(check your manual)
-Remove the Wiring Harness, there are a few metal brackets that hold the WH to the IM I think 7 or 8 screws, remove those, unplug all connectors and your good there.
-Remove the TB, disconnect hoses, throttle position sensor plug, vaccum
lines.
-Remove IACV, diconnect plugs, any vaccum lines, un-bolt.
-Remove all bolts connected to the IM, you have to do the front four in the reverse order of tightening(check the manual) then the two in back that attach to the rear of the IM then the two that attach the EGR valve guide tube, to the back of the IM near the IACV. Also brake booster hose and any others,(there are others) that you see.
Then you should be able to lift the IM off. You may need a new plenum gasket(IM). If you are removing the valve covers you will need new gaskets for them.
I got a gasket kit from AutoZone which had the Valve Cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, new grommets for the valve cover, I did have to buy TB gasket, the IACV gasket was good, and so was the plenum gasket.
There is lots of **** to clean out of all those parts!! In hind sight I should have removed some of the hoses that connected to these parts and cleaned them out too. If you want to check your Injectors while you have the IM off you will need new o-rings. I destroyed one injector pulling it out
and I found another that was all cracked and ready to die. SO I put all new ones in the rear so I wouldn't need to remove everything again.(hopefully)All this is in the HAYNES manual, if you don't have one get one, and some more specific info(like about injectors) I got right here at the ORG.
If you have a couple of days to COMMIT to this and you get all of your supplies FIRST(gaskets, screws, cleaner, cleaner, cleaner, and anything else you may want or need.) it can probably be done in two days.
Originally Posted by tweeter007
He was trying to make it simple to understand, he ran the shop there for 12 years, retired now. What he was trying to get across was that the engine runs in an "open loop?" until it reaches operating temp, then goes into "closed loop" where more input is taken from the sensors to ECU. I think he may have something that could help us. He's probably seen more Max's than all of put together!
While what he was saying about the circuitry is true from an electrical perspective, it would have been more useful and accurate to say that there are a few sensors from which the ECU does not receive information until the engine has reached its operating temperature -- like the 02 sensors.
However, just because there are sensors that do not send signals to the ECU during cold starts does not mean that the ECU is ignoring them. The ECU is monitoring a whole bunch of sensors and controls -- regardless of whether they send signals or not -- from the time you turn the key until your engine is warm such as the IACV, MAF, MAP, EGR, intake air temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, crankshaft position sensor, etc..
So, if your car runs fine when cold, but lousy when it reaches its operating temperature, then it might make sense to suspect just the few sensors that are not involved during cold starts.
In other words, it is not that the ECU is ignoring the information from them when the engine is cold, but that the information itself is either not a factor, or less of a factor, in the engine control system until the engine reaches its operating temperature.
A good example, again, is the O2 sensor which only begins to put out voltage when it starts to warm up and will not put out a full load until it reaches its maximum temperature of around 600 degrees.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
Our 95' Max is starting to shake at stops every now and then and all I can say is... I think I might bail on our 95' Maxima. My g-ma had a Pontiac Bonneville with the same problems before (I know its not a Nissan) and she battled with it for 10 YEARS! What is weird about my particular situation is that mine started RIGHT AFTER I had gotten my oil changed and transmission treated from Jiffy Lube. I doubt they have anything to do with it but I wonder if its something to do with the transmission because the car started having transmission problems two days before I took it to Jiffy Lube.
One thing we have not considered is that all of these electronic sensors are sensitive to RF and EM fields, if they are strong enough. Under the hood of our cars, there are plenty of strong electromagnetic fields -- especially if wires are not properly insulated. There have been a number of documented cases where intermittant faults in electronic devices -- such as the cruise control module -- were traced to EM fields caused by a lack of proper shielding.
Your sensors depend upon a good, clean, strong voltage signal to function properly. An alternator that does not put out enough amps at idle can cause rough running. Something as simple as a loose belt can do that, as well as worn belts and worn idler pulleys.
Faulty wiring, such as corroded or frayed wires and broken insulation, can cause a whole array of problems. There's another, ongoing thread about intermittent sunroof operation that is due to faulty wiring. Sensors also need to be properly grounded to receive a proper signal. Remember, sensors have their own, dedicated grounds, so things like grounding kits will do nothing to correct the problem.
If your car runs better when you rev the engine at a stop light, than when you let it idle by itself, then that strongly suggests an electrical problem may be the underlying cause.
If you have got a lot of accessories in your vehicle, you may need to get a more powerful alternator to provide enough juice to keep everything happy.
Your sensors depend upon a good, clean, strong voltage signal to function properly. An alternator that does not put out enough amps at idle can cause rough running. Something as simple as a loose belt can do that, as well as worn belts and worn idler pulleys.
Faulty wiring, such as corroded or frayed wires and broken insulation, can cause a whole array of problems. There's another, ongoing thread about intermittent sunroof operation that is due to faulty wiring. Sensors also need to be properly grounded to receive a proper signal. Remember, sensors have their own, dedicated grounds, so things like grounding kits will do nothing to correct the problem.
If your car runs better when you rev the engine at a stop light, than when you let it idle by itself, then that strongly suggests an electrical problem may be the underlying cause.
If you have got a lot of accessories in your vehicle, you may need to get a more powerful alternator to provide enough juice to keep everything happy.
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 41
Originally Posted by fredrock79
Mines use to shake alot when it was on a stop, but when I changed my bottom motor mount it actually went away. So motor mounts might be a possibility, then again everybody has a different situation.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
I don't know if anyone is still looking at this thread but I took my Max into the shop yesterday and was told that my TCC is bad. The way the mechanic explained it is theres two "somethings" (I'm sorry I can't remember the terms he used) that push together once your engine is able to move on its own, which happens at higher speeds. Whats happening is the "somethings" aren't disengaging causing the tranny to stay in gear rather than shift into neutral at stops. Basically our car needs a new tranny... Hope this helps a little bit?!? *Also, does anyone know where I can get an a/t for a max for a good price?*
Originally Posted by 96max4Micah
I don't know if anyone is still looking at this thread but I took my Max into the shop yesterday and was told that my TCC is bad. The way the mechanic explained it is theres two "somethings" (I'm sorry I can't remember the terms he used) that push together once your engine is able to move on its own, which happens at higher speeds. Whats happening is the "somethings" aren't disengaging causing the tranny to stay in gear rather than shift into neutral at stops. Basically our car needs a new tranny... Hope this helps a little bit?!? *Also, does anyone know where I can get an a/t for a max for a good price?*
He's talking about the torque converter clutch. Often the solenoid controlling the TCC goes bad and you can replace just that part. Or, replace just the torque converter ($350-$500).
My advice is to get a 2nd opinion.
At any rate, you do not need to buy a whole, new tranny.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
Actually... I do need a new tranny anyway because reverse is GONE. The mechanic said that the particles from reverse's problem "are moving around in the transmission" and he thinks that might have caused the TCC to stop working properly. Isn't the TCC inside the tranny?
*This is the side note on my receipt:
Check for vehicle dying at stop signs. Verify compaint Note-Trans has no reverse. Perform computer diagnostic. Found code P0325 Knock Sensor Circuit Fault. And P0734 4th Gear and TCC Lock Up Problem. Due to the symptom P0325 is N/A at this time. Stall test does not exceed 500 RPMs indicating torque converter clutch problem. Recommend replace transmission*
One more ?... a couple weeks ago we had no probs w/ tranny AT ALL *other than a little slipping every now and then*. We went on a 12 hour road trip *all together* and when we got back the next day started the car, put it in reverse, didn't move. We checked the tranny fluid... looked like charcoal. What is weird is that we took it to Jiffy Lube right before the trip and they said the tranny fluid looked fine. Has anyone heard of a tranny just going out like that?
*This is the side note on my receipt:
Check for vehicle dying at stop signs. Verify compaint Note-Trans has no reverse. Perform computer diagnostic. Found code P0325 Knock Sensor Circuit Fault. And P0734 4th Gear and TCC Lock Up Problem. Due to the symptom P0325 is N/A at this time. Stall test does not exceed 500 RPMs indicating torque converter clutch problem. Recommend replace transmission*
One more ?... a couple weeks ago we had no probs w/ tranny AT ALL *other than a little slipping every now and then*. We went on a 12 hour road trip *all together* and when we got back the next day started the car, put it in reverse, didn't move. We checked the tranny fluid... looked like charcoal. What is weird is that we took it to Jiffy Lube right before the trip and they said the tranny fluid looked fine. Has anyone heard of a tranny just going out like that?
I had my tranny overhauled 1.5 years ago and am still getting no codes. And it is getting better barely any vibration at all, i think i just had a dirty injector. I used some injector cleaner so it must be helping.
Again having to have a trans overhauled with only 46,000 miles is kind of ridiculous in my book. I was right outside of the warranty by like 4 months and the dealership told me to **** off. Mine started out with bad soleniods and over time (the line pressure one was going out) must have wore down my clutch packs. And i just opened up, cleaned the screen and changed the fluid in my trans. Man there was no crap in there and everything was clean so? I think our trans are just junk, the shift pattern and the not changing gear at a slow role sucks. And the worst is the constant gear changes at around 35 mph up and down. I would not buy another maxima with an auto. Or another car with an auto in general, They suck!!!
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
This is the closes post I have found for what my symtoms are. I have a 95 max/auto that I love but this problem is driving me crazy.
The car will start fine and run good until it starts to warm up. The transition between cold and operating temp is brutal. It will idle all over the place stall at lights and basicly run like crap until it is to operating temp and then it is all good. There are no lights or codes that come on and the dealer tells me there is nothing wrong. but I had to get the car towed there in order for them to tell me that so there is definetly something wrong.
I always run 91 octane, i have replaced fuel filter, pcv, spark plugs, coil packs, cleaned iac 3 times now and put a new K&n air filter in and nothing seems to help.
Thanks guys for any help
The car will start fine and run good until it starts to warm up. The transition between cold and operating temp is brutal. It will idle all over the place stall at lights and basicly run like crap until it is to operating temp and then it is all good. There are no lights or codes that come on and the dealer tells me there is nothing wrong. but I had to get the car towed there in order for them to tell me that so there is definetly something wrong.
I always run 91 octane, i have replaced fuel filter, pcv, spark plugs, coil packs, cleaned iac 3 times now and put a new K&n air filter in and nothing seems to help.
Thanks guys for any help
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by vfrpilot
This is the closes post I have found for what my symtoms are. I have a 95 max/auto that I love but this problem is driving me crazy.
The car will start fine and run good until it starts to warm up. The transition between cold and operating temp is brutal. It will idle all over the place stall at lights and basicly run like crap until it is to operating temp and then it is all good. There are no lights or codes that come on and the dealer tells me there is nothing wrong. but I had to get the car towed there in order for them to tell me that so there is definetly something wrong.
I always run 91 octane, i have replaced fuel filter, pcv, spark plugs, coil packs, cleaned iac 3 times now and put a new K&n air filter in and nothing seems to help.
Thanks guys for any help
The car will start fine and run good until it starts to warm up. The transition between cold and operating temp is brutal. It will idle all over the place stall at lights and basicly run like crap until it is to operating temp and then it is all good. There are no lights or codes that come on and the dealer tells me there is nothing wrong. but I had to get the car towed there in order for them to tell me that so there is definetly something wrong.
I always run 91 octane, i have replaced fuel filter, pcv, spark plugs, coil packs, cleaned iac 3 times now and put a new K&n air filter in and nothing seems to help.
Thanks guys for any help
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 94
Hey!!!! The Other Day I Put In Nos Octane Booster (racing Formula For Offroad Use) And The Shaking Stopped After I Used Half A Tank Of Gas. I Guess One Of My Injectors Was Really Dirty Or Clogged. I Am Sooooo Happy.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 57
From: Melville, NY
Finally, my shaking has come to a stop. I got myself a tune up and put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner to good use. Well, my car is running great. There is no more shaking at lights and my fuel mileage also increased.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2
Hello
I'm new to the forum. I came here searching for answers for this very problem. I've had my 99 max for just about four years. In that time of replaced about 6 coil packs. So this time i'm driving my max and i get that oh so familiar shake and loss of power. at this point i'm pissed because the local dealership is the only people who seem to be able to fix anything right, but it costs a small fortune.
So i setup service for this afternoon, explained that it was probably a misfire and likely need a new coil. I bought some gas treatment with fuel injector cleaner and opted for high test at the pump. Well after driving to work, my max ran much smoother. i was hoping it was just the gas that was messing it up. so I brought it to the dealer just to have them run the codes and ensure that all was clear.
Their technician apparently found a "probable intermitant open circuit in engine harness". I was informed that i would need a new harness at sleek new cost of approximately $2300 bucks. This sounded really steep. I asked if there was an after market option. He reported that they would not install anything that wasn't new. Anyone have any ideas? I did setup a second opinion with another dealership, but who knows.
I'm new to the forum. I came here searching for answers for this very problem. I've had my 99 max for just about four years. In that time of replaced about 6 coil packs. So this time i'm driving my max and i get that oh so familiar shake and loss of power. at this point i'm pissed because the local dealership is the only people who seem to be able to fix anything right, but it costs a small fortune.
So i setup service for this afternoon, explained that it was probably a misfire and likely need a new coil. I bought some gas treatment with fuel injector cleaner and opted for high test at the pump. Well after driving to work, my max ran much smoother. i was hoping it was just the gas that was messing it up. so I brought it to the dealer just to have them run the codes and ensure that all was clear.
Their technician apparently found a "probable intermitant open circuit in engine harness". I was informed that i would need a new harness at sleek new cost of approximately $2300 bucks. This sounded really steep. I asked if there was an after market option. He reported that they would not install anything that wasn't new. Anyone have any ideas? I did setup a second opinion with another dealership, but who knows.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 94
hey everyone. i just wanted to keep everyone posted that my car has completely stopped shaking thanks to the nos octane booster. for all of you who has a max that shakes, put a fuel injector cleaner...not a cheap one...get the chevron brand and use it a couple times. if that doesnt work get new fuel injectors. i am 100% it will fix the problem. (this is only for if your car is shaking and jerking when idle)
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 41
Originally Posted by syracusemax
Hello
I'm new to the forum. I came here searching for answers for this very problem. I've had my 99 max for just about four years. In that time of replaced about 6 coil packs. So this time i'm driving my max and i get that oh so familiar shake and loss of power. at this point i'm pissed because the local dealership is the only people who seem to be able to fix anything right, but it costs a small fortune.
So i setup service for this afternoon, explained that it was probably a misfire and likely need a new coil. I bought some gas treatment with fuel injector cleaner and opted for high test at the pump. Well after driving to work, my max ran much smoother. i was hoping it was just the gas that was messing it up. so I brought it to the dealer just to have them run the codes and ensure that all was clear.
Their technician apparently found a "probable intermitant open circuit in engine harness". I was informed that i would need a new harness at sleek new cost of approximately $2300 bucks. This sounded really steep. I asked if there was an after market option. He reported that they would not install anything that wasn't new. Anyone have any ideas? I did setup a second opinion with another dealership, but who knows.
I'm new to the forum. I came here searching for answers for this very problem. I've had my 99 max for just about four years. In that time of replaced about 6 coil packs. So this time i'm driving my max and i get that oh so familiar shake and loss of power. at this point i'm pissed because the local dealership is the only people who seem to be able to fix anything right, but it costs a small fortune.
So i setup service for this afternoon, explained that it was probably a misfire and likely need a new coil. I bought some gas treatment with fuel injector cleaner and opted for high test at the pump. Well after driving to work, my max ran much smoother. i was hoping it was just the gas that was messing it up. so I brought it to the dealer just to have them run the codes and ensure that all was clear.
Their technician apparently found a "probable intermitant open circuit in engine harness". I was informed that i would need a new harness at sleek new cost of approximately $2300 bucks. This sounded really steep. I asked if there was an after market option. He reported that they would not install anything that wasn't new. Anyone have any ideas? I did setup a second opinion with another dealership, but who knows.
ill try the injector cleaner and see what happens..