Yeah it was the coilpacks for me, but I could easily see that it could also be the
fuel injectors. Probably both for some people. I used that Chevron fuel injector cleaner that I bought in a 4-pack from Costco. It's definitely worth a try at first, since it's a lot cheaper than coilpacks.

 

Anyone know if it is a good idea to use another fuel injection cleaner right after using one in a previous tank fill? Cause I think I bought a ****ty fuel injection cleaner (it was actually more of a gas per mileage booster but said helps clean fuel injectors), and want to try another brand on my next tank fill.

 

Hi all:

I haven't read through all 5 pages of replies --

However; here is my two cents worth --

If the ECU is still in "diagnostic mode", you can have a low idle while in gear. I believe the IAC (Intake Air Control) valve is disabled when ECU is in diagnostic mode.

If you gave the ECU dial a turn to check for the failure codes and did not properly reset the ECU, you will see this problem with the idle. This happened to me once.

There is a sticky at the top of the forum page that describes the proper method to reset the ECU.

Hope this helps.

 

Well, that had been happening to me for more than a year, until last weekend. I have told my story before in another thread. However, the brief story is that my ECU is dead!!!

It is 7 days that I am trying to reason why it is dead. Today I came across to this website:

http://www.mitsubishiecu.com/ecu.htm

Referring to the website, these are some of the symptoms with a failure ECU. I am pretty sure that, unfortunately, most of you guys are familiar with some of them:

• Erratic idle/stall at traffic lights/general poor running and starting problems which can be intermittent,
• ONE injector ceasing to function.
• loss of spark on 2 cylinders
• Vehicle breaking down at any time without warning. Breakdown services diagnose loss of ignition spark.

Hope it never happen to you.

 

I had this happen for the first time a couple days ago. it only happened once and then went away. 99 SE 66k mi. recent maint incl injectors cleaned, 1 new coil, tranny flush, TB cleaned. will keep an eye on this. seems to be an epidemic.

 

Try Lucas Gas Treatment. It's good stuff!

 

I also have a rough idle... 95 GLE. Shakes mostly when it's idling in drive. Shakes much less when I knock it down to neutral. I just got the car and was messing with the ECU to get the CEL codes, so I reset the ECU. Also put some fuel injector cleaner in since it's old. I'll keep posting if I notice any difference

 

bump.........................

 

I have the same problem. went to the dealership and they said a bad fuel injector for cylinder #1. Changed all three rear injectors now the car shakes worse and makes smoke that smell like a almost raw gas. i have no clue what's wrong and need help. the code i get is multiple misfire. when i first put the injectors in the car ran like a brand new maxima for about 20 minutes before symptoms started. also the car is hard to start now and smell like gas when starting and when running.

 

that sucks. I'm anxious about taking my car anywhere because it seems no one has a solution for this problem.

 

dont feel like reading 5 pages but if u got shaking only at complete stop in D and when u go into N, its normal, has anybody checked their transmission mounts if they're good or not???

 

i have noticed something interesting about my shakin problem, if the car is cold, there is no vibes,start the engine when cold and just sit with the car in drive without moving, the instant the temp gauge reaches normal operating range, the vibes start to emerge. This is leading me to believe it is a sensor somewhere buggering up. Within the next week the local master nissan tech is gonna check it out for free, maybe this problem will finally be found!

 

misfire: check your spark plugs, coilpacks, injectors, and compression. possibly your fuel pump or fuel filter as well. for maximas, injectors tend to go bad frequently.

 

When you car is at operating temperature, at what RPM are you idling? Next time you are stopped, put it in Neutral, and bring the tachometer up to 1,000 RPMs. Does that minimize the shake, or is it just as bad?

 

Look into the D/S o2 sensor. Same issue w/ mine, the o2 sensor solved the problem.

 

[QUOTE=Mitch3878]Look into the D/S o2 sensor. Same issue w/ mine, the o2 sensor solved the problem.

when you say "drivers side o2 sensor' which one doe you mean as the o2's are placed front to back to far back, not side to side? If a stupid o2 sensor fixes this I'll be a happy man. is there a way to test indivdiual o2 sensors, that would help?

 

750 to 850rpm@ operating temp, in N same thing no vibes, when in D rpm goes down to 500-600 that when the vibes start. If i hit the gas while in drive to go up to 1000rpm vibes stop, only when sitting in drive@ idle.

 

new spark plugs, 6 new coil packs, new fuel filter, car only has 80k miles, dealer maintained with mobil 1 so i'm sure comp is fine. Have not looked a whole lot into injectors but i have no codes for misfires and gas mileage is normal as well as idle when NOT in drive, car runs fine other then the damn SHAKES IN DRIVE!!!.

 

Symptom:
Hesitation/knocking when idle (i.e. stop signs, stoplights) or at low speeds (knocks/kicks).

Recommended solution:
Replace the ignition coils; they are the primary cause for the 4th gen engine misfire problems. I replaced the ignition coil for cylinder #5 last year (when I got the P0305 error code), but few weeks later cylinder #1 failed (P0301), so I would recommend replacing all at once, since they are known to fail around 50K miles. I've been reading on several forums and this seems to be the common problem for the Maximas. They should run around $85 each, don't pay more than $100 a piece. I also ran across a wholesale website (based in North Carolina) selling for around $55.

It's very easy to replace yourself, takes less than 30 minutes. I just did it this past Sunday and my car has been running without any hesitation/knocking... gives me a peace of mind.

 

Wanted to point out one more thing... my Check Engine Light (CEL) didn't come on till months after this hesitation/knock problem, so even if you don't see the CEL on I would still advise changing the ignition coils. I had gone through numerous mechanics and nobody could diagnose the problem. I'm glad these forums exist.

 

i have the same ordeal. try using injector cleaner and checking your fuel pump or fuel filter, which i see youve already done. thats what ive been recommended to do by my trusted family mechanic.

 

OK, that narrows it down. ANY car that revs at those RPMS is basically on the verge of stalling and is going to shake. The base idle speed should be at least 650-700rpm (in“D”position).

I would first try to adjust the idle speed adjusting screw until the revs go up to 700 (the screw is located near the brake booster). After making an adjustment, you need to rev the car up to 2000-3000, and let it return to idle to get an accurate measurement.

If that does not solve the problem, and your timing is set to spec and your throttle position sensor is working properly, then I would replace -- not clean -- the idle air control valve.

 

Hi All!

I just picked up a 99 Max yesterday... Literally 24 hours ago. I love this car so far. When I test drove it, she was perfect - No issues at all. I was very picky while inspecting and driving the car. I paid special attention to tranny/engine noises after getting some great advice from some of the posts on this website. I was determined to find the perfect 4th gen... but now I'm worried.

As I hopped off of the highway and hit the first city stoplight, I noticed the car kinda "jump" a few times while waiting for the green. Next light, same thing. My immediate feeling was tranny because I could feel the jump through the brake pedal. Then I noticed a very small RPM drop while the jumps occurred. I killed the A/C and there was no more jumping. I fired up the A/C again and put it in neutral... no issues.

I was lucky enough to get the service records for the car since new. Nothing major, A few 02 sensors and a coil pack on #1 last year (about 10K ago).

I've read all of the above posts and written down many of the suggestions. My question is, Where should I start? I'm very worried about the tranny or TC but the A/C thing makes me think it could be something else. I cannot hear the idle drop but the RPMs show a maybe 75-150 drop each time.

Why can I feel the jump through the brake pedal?... A rough idle normally won't rattle thump you in the foot. Would it?

Thanks in advance.

Condor

 

My solution to this problem was the replacement of the #3 coil pack according to Sprint Max's web site. I also replaced the spark plug that was connected to it as recommended by a friend. Since replacing the coil pack, I have gone 1000 miles with no further problems.

How I figured out what coil pack was the problem. I took out the front three and brought them to my local Autozone. They tested all three, which I had labeled so I knew the original location of each, and the third one was indeed broken. They also read my codes for me, and I did have a KS code, but they cleared it for me and since has not come back. I have since passed inspection, so I figure that the KS must be ok. All the testing at Autozone was free, and the coil pack and new spark plug cost me 87$. It only took me about 2 hours to rectify the problem. I had figured that my car had greater problem because of the shaking. The car now runs beautifully.

To all those with this problem, I HIGHLY suggest checking your coil packs, they are only about 80$ a pop, with free testing at Autozone, its a cheap diagnosis. And on top of it, its an easy job for even a novice. Sprint Max's spark plug instructions are perfect for this job.

Thank you everyone who posted in this thread for your input. I love my car again.

-Mark

 

I had bad intermittent misfires, happened once in a while, this was the main reason for changing all 6 of my coils, I did have the shakes too before I replaced them, I hoped that when I had 6 new coils the problem would be gone. The misfires and CEL's went away, but the shakes were still there. I'm just saying don't to think that $500 worth of coils will solve this problem, it didn't in my case! I reallt think that something else is the culprit, time will tell. A mechanic told me to try running thew car with both the front o2 sensors disconnected to see if the shakes still happen when the car gets warm, if the shakes are gone, the problem is found. I have not tried this yet, but I will a soon as I can. Feel free to do so and share the results.

 

Haven't read through all 5 pages...but from reading just the first there are two VERY likely culprits, it sounds to me like either a problem with the tourqe convertor, or more likely, a problem with the egr valve. It is only supposed to operate under heavy load. Also, check for vacuum leaks, which can include a faulty egr valve or a pcv valve. Also, a good mechanic would probably connect a vacuum gauge before suspecting anything, it works wonders for isolating different problems. Hope this helps and good luck, don't get frustrated and start replacing parts.

 

didnt read through the four pages, but surmised the replies as faulty coilpacks, egr and/or ecu.

but - my father recently had the same problem with his taurus. so i took it for a test drive, and while at a light it had a slight shudder while stopped. threw it in neutral and it decreased a small amount. i had it pegged as a transmission problem, but he would rather ignore it than put money into the car.

week later the snake belt shredded, so i took it in the shop and found a bad idler pulley as the cause for the broken belt. swapped the pulley, and it fixed the shake oddly enough. just another point of view.

 

My car has been doing the same thing replaced coils, did a tranny service, just looked at that air box thing,

ok dont laugh whats a iacv and how do you clean it

 

^^ check the FAQs on top of the 4th gen forum page. Lots of info there.

 

FOUND IT!!! DOing it tomorow will tell you guys if that was the prob

 

Didnt Fix It
Bump....for An Answer

 

My problem is just like that. I have no CEL. The jerks happen more when the AC is on and hardly occur when the AC is off. The jerk never occurs in neutral or park. I changed the spark plugs, fuel filter, PCV. This still happens. I'm thinking it's either a coil pack issue or a torque converter problem. I would prefer the coil pack since it wouldn't cost as much to fix. Can anyone confirm these symptoms are related to coil pack issues? I'm almost ready to go buy all 6 coil packs from autozone and hope that solves the problem. I have the car for 4 years and I don't think the coil packs have ever been changed. I'm not the original owner.

 

lol similar problem here. Car vibrates when idling in D, runs fine in N or P. I have a cel (that dealt with ks, or os, or exhaust, i dont remember). I'll check out the injectors, tc, and coils.

Just a thought - could it be the clutch?

 

yeah, im wanna wait until somebody confirms the exact problme before i go out buying stuff.

 

I shopped around for prices on the coil packs. O'Reilly Auto parts had them for $71 with lifetime warranty (Borg Warner brand), NAPA for $80 (Hanshin) w 1 year warranty, Advanced Auto for $56 w 1 year warranty (BG or CG Soresten brand)-worker said they're the same as Wells at autozone, Autozone for $65 w 90 day warranty (Wells brand). I don't know about autozone and NAPA, but for the others, you can't return the coils once they are installed. A worker at Advanced Auto said I should try getting the vacuum line checked and the fuel pump tested. I have never heard of these brand names before aside from Hanshin and Wells.

 

I read most of the posts and read that some people would notice vibrations while decelerating. Also while stopped at a light (in Drive) the car would idle around 550 rpm.

I used to have this problem until I read a service bulletin about the brake check valve (which is connected on the hose leading from the brake booster). So I cleaned out the valve with some TB spray and it fixed the problem. The car does vibrate while decelerating and it idle's at 650 now. However I do still have a slight vibration while stopped at a light, which I notice reduces when the temperature is warmer outside. This leads me to think it might be an engine mount problem.

Has anyone tryed changing their engine mounts to reduce the vibration?

 

I thought that was the problem initially. When I took my max to the mechanic, he revved the car while his fellow worker had the brake on. My engine looked like it was about to leap out! A couple of seconds after he stopped revving, the engine dropped back into the engine bay. I replace the front and rear motor mounts with Energy Suspension bushings. That fixed the problem with the engine moving back and forth, but the vibration was still there.

Could it be the smaller mount on the transmission?

 

I thought that was the problem initially. When I took my auto max to the mechanic, he revved the car while his fellow worker had the brake on. My engine looked like it was about to leap out! A couple of seconds after he stopped revving, the engine dropped back into the engine bay. I replace the front and rear motor mounts with Energy Suspension bushings. That fixed the problem with the engine moving back and forth, but the vibration was still there.

 

I have owned my max for about 8 months and have had the problem since i ahve owned it. I cant seem to figure out the problem. Unlike some of the problems other max owners have had, my car only feels like it bumps not really shakes, but like the others when in N nothing seems to happen and all problems go away. HELP

 

That's the term I'm looking for. I used vibration but it's a tugging feeling or bump. I will say one thing about it though. When I poured Chevron with techron in my nearly empty tank and filled the tank with premium of course, the bump went away for the longest, but reared it's ugly head as the tank went to empty. I don't know if the fuel injector cleaner was indeed masking something. This would rule out the possibility of the torque converter going bad I think. I hope so because I don't want to spend $500 or $600 on getting that fixed. I'll try to get my fuel pump and vacuum lines checked tomorrow.