first off is there a write up for brakes anywhere, ive never done it before looking to do it for the first time.

next...brake shims, do i need new ones with every brake job or are they reusable? whats the deal with that?

i know that a caliper tool is needed for the rear, what about the front?

 

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300

There ya go, a full write up on the front brakes, including parts that answer most of your questions!

 

awsome, i figured that site would have somethign but for the life of me i couldnt remember the address... its bookmarked now

 

welll brakes is a touchey subject. It depends sometimes the shims come with it alot of times when you spend the big bucks they are attached to the pad already I suggest getting new brake hardware to it is not that much more and after awhile the older rusted hardware can cause some noises.

 

personally I didn't reuse my shims (rusted onto the brake pad), and my new pads, PBR Ceramic's didn't come with shims. Haven't had a problem, though I'm going to take a wheel off and inspect them next week to make sure.

That write up is pretty good, but one thing to note, my rotors were rusted on like nothing else, and it took quite a few well place massive blows with a hammer to get them off. When the first one popped, I had hit it so hard that I thought I brok the axel ...

 

i reused my shims but on the topic of the caliper tool you really dont need it if you have a good pair of needle nose pliers. it will take a little longer but it will save you money. as for the front there is only a piston that you need a c-clamp to push back in.

 

you can get the caliper tool from autozone for a deposit.

 

I just got the brake package from Jason. PBR ultimates and new rotors all around. But I am clueless on how to proceed.

So, where do I get the shims from? Stealer or will an auto parts store sell just the shims?

Thanks

 

1. The writeup for the front pads is linked a few replies before yours
2. If you have never done brakes before or seen someone replace them, its probably not a good idea to try them without someone overseeing your work. It's easy (relative), but it is also your brakes we are talking about here - not something you want to experiment with. Post in the regional forum and see if someone can hook you up/help you out for a small fee.

I don't think you can buy "shims only" from a local parts store - you can get the shims from the dealer -but they won't be cheap. You may be able to reuse your old shims if they aren't in too bad a shape.

 

just did my front brakes at dealership. $180. If you're short of time or mechanically challenged, worth the money. Cheaper elsewhere? Don't want to know!

 

Did it come with new rotors or did they just turn the old ones? But you got ripped off either way

 

so i got my bads....Quiet Stops all around, and either im gonna do the brake job this weekend or bring it to Maximum Tuning where jeff does brakes for 80 bucks

 

Brakes are easy... Just prepare and take your time. I went over the entire braking system before i started and read a few howto's on doing brakes. It took me maybe 2 hours per wheel. ( i was taking my time, lol).

 

Brake jobs are very quick and very profitable for shops....learn to do yourself...not difficult at all.

 

Well, I did read up on the brake job procedure. . I just wasn't sure if I could do it. I think I can get a buddy to look over the work. I have seen brake pads being replaced but never seen a rotor being replaced. But I would think that replacing the rotor is as easy as removing the two screws securing it and getting the rotor off. I have 60K miles and hope my shims are not too worn out.

I will obviously see if I can get some one who can hook me up (pizza and beer on me obviously and since I don't drink, they will get whatever brand of beer they want )) in the regional forums once I muster enough courage to take on the challenge. Till then, the brake package from Jason (AutoMax_95) is sitting in the box it arrived in.

 

You are on the right path... If you were local I'd help you out. Good luck. If you do decide to take it on yourself, let me know, I can help you (as much as is possible without actually being there).

 

glad to see someone helping eachother, but im guessing i'd do my own as well.... eveyroen LEARN TO TRY. the write up for the front is REALLLLLLLY good..

i got some PBR, do they need anything new?

 

As far as the shims, on my first brake job I bought the kit, didn't use it and forgot to reinstall the the old shims. Never got any noise since. I guess I'll get blasted again for saying it but I think it's because of using OEM pads. OEM seems to fit the "set it and forget it" mold, they don't give any trouble and last a long time. Did the same in the rear, no sounds.

Those shims are supposed to eliminate a groaning sound caused by the piston making contact with the back of the pad, a vibration if you will. That is not to be confused with a squeal that is caused by the pad making contact with the rotor.

Good luck--if you find you're having trouble with the job, you can always put everything back together.

 

the only thing I'm unsure of is how tightly to screw the bolts in..I don't have a torque wrench or anything to measure by...should i just count how many revolutions the bolts made to unscrew???

 

I also am planning on doing a brake job have never done it before but have also heard it is easy and can do yourself just take your time a make sure you know what your doing. I've read the motorvate write up many times and am very familiar with it.

When I do the job I will most likely just replace the pads. Following this path would I stope once the caliper is removed and pads slide out? just get new pads (oem most likely) and put needed anti squeek compound slide new pads back in and beed? or would it be best to completly dis assemble the system in order to treat replace or relube the various parts. I've never done a brake job since owning the car (since 96K I'm at 125K now and pads feel a little old)

thanks

 

make sure you remove the caliper sliders to clean and regrese them with a high temp grease if these do not have any resistance to the caliper you can end up seizing your caliper. I believe the technical name is claiper sliders the have black boots around them and that is were teh caliper is attached there is one on top and one on the bottom.

 

Regrease your guide pins while you're at it

 

thanks bro wasnt sure on the name

 

thank you for clearing that up. I might take it all apart now that I think about it to paint the calipers but depens on if I'll want to/have extra money for it.

 

i painted mine and after having about 6 months of use they kinda dulled down which isnt all that bad

 

im having a problem with my rear driver side pads are rubbing against the rotor. Just did the brakes a month ago but no problems. The other day my brakes were smoking...alot. So i took the wheel off and pads out and re did everything but no change. Any help is appreciated.

 

Sounds like the caliper piston is binding or sliding pins are binding. Make sure both are smooth and free. More likely the pins are sticking, as I have run into.......

 

how much do u regrease? i read that as long they move in and out comfortably?

its purpose is to rid the air?

 

make sure they have some resisitence to it

 

im just scared of it crapping out. i've got pads, so im just gonna put some metal masters in place of the OEM or whatever it is in there. there's still life in there, so i can take my time to gather the tools and synthetic grease and all that.


so after putting it in, how can i be sure the slider pins have worked?

well thanks.

 

They just have to slide freely and smoothly

 

gotcah will give it a shots.. thanks..

 

Follow motorvate.ca instructions and you'll be fine