I would of gone FI and saved the headache. Yea Yea i know its unique and a lot of poeple have turbos/sc's on their cars but oh well it would be nicer. Just my .02. The swap looks cleans nonetheless and looks like tilley and stephenmax know their stuff and props to them.

 

going FI is is easier? IMO i think thsi swap is easier then FI.

 

Exactly, GF has its share of headaches

 

wait, u stuck on a 3.5 v6 unto a 4th gen maxima?

 

Any plan to take the car to the track? Really interested to see how your car will do at the track with the 3.5

 

no modifications of course it was a bolt on ^^^^^^

 

You better get arp rod bolts as a safe guard if your raising the rev limiter.

 

Very clean swap, Hopefully I will have a 3.5 in mine soon. Do you still have power steering and AC?

 

Tilley
I dont plan to raise the rev limiter above 7000rpm. Do you still think that is a must?

Jeeve

All the accessories bolt up.

Ethnic6

No its just a 3.0l with a 3.5l engine cover on it.

97whtse

FI would have cost me a lot more and my old engine had 205,000 miles on it. I think this made a lot more sense.

emonik-1

check out my cardomain. i have the complete set up listed there, plus some really good pics of the install



Thanks for all the comments guys its really appreciated!

 

THats a tyte a$$ setup, how much did it run you if you dont mind me asking?

 

The brakes looked something like this:

Rotors: $170
SS Lines: $85
Pads/Shims: FREEBIE
Paint: $35
Fluid: $20
SpeedBleeders: $30


All that plus a little bit of shippping.

 

Amazing. That looks like a lot of fun and a ton of work. I bet it all pays off. How's the handling? I would imagine there's some inconsistencies since the car may be somewhat off balance in the front after the swap. But that's only my speculation.

 

Who would tune our ECU's JWT TS?? For what application would they tune our ECU for, Tilley told me the STOCK 3.0 ECU has optimal settings for the 3.5.

 

I think for arguments sake, get them done. People have different opinions on it, and it makes more sense to have them in there if high revving. And when one gets the advice, "it shouldn't be necessary" and end up with a thrown rod .. well, the guy who told you opposite is going to pop up and say I told ya so ... The 3.0 was able to get crayzie revs with valve float and oil pumps being the weak link, not connecting rods. The 3.5 is larger, has more mechanical stresses on the connecting rods due to the increased displacement, and also has a different style rod. (closed bolt vs open blot ) Ice, or SR20 can lend details there, or I may get a little bored today and search for the thread. where it was discussed. But in the end, I would say rod bolts are the way to go .. Can't remember who said this, but it's a quote something to this effect, "It's like condoms, you know you have to wear them, but don't want to"

 

The handling is the same. The VQ35 is actually ~35lbs lighter.

 

I saw the same thread in the all motor forum. I just thought that it was only nessesary for reving over 7k. *sigh* Can we say money pit? What I have I got myself into? It would have been much easier to do this with the engine out. I will be lucky to get an upgraded ecu by the next Maxus. Right now my new focus is a SAFCII. Anyone wanna buy some CF Eyelids and contribute to the cause?

 

excellent job! I'll def. swap a VQ35 in my Max once my VQ30 bites the dust

 

damn i give u props for all the hard work put into that swap. looks clean as ****...

 

Please give all the props to Stephenmax. I was merely the financial provider for this. With out him it would have never happened.

 

This is why I want to keep my Max forever..........

I'm going to do this as well, perhaps next year or so, when I get the fundage for the engine and all other related parts. If I understand this correctly, you need a different ECU for the VQ35 swap???

 

Impressive...most impressive.

 

Off-topic: Nice gauge lighting. Are those the blue bulbs? Can you tell me the part # and make of the bulb? I was also thinking of changing the color or tip of the needle.

 

You will reuse your stock ecu. There is only one person that did the ecu swap.

 

Thanks for clarifying that. Also, why did you have to custom fab an iacv?

 

Thank you. It is 100% custom retro fit using 5mm 18000mcd white LEDs. So this means that there are no bulbs to use as you will have to individually solder the LEDs and mount them behind your gauges. It is very time consuming but the end results make is worth while.

 

any ideas on tuning?

 

You will have to do some reseach on that. They are different between the 2 engines/chassis. I forget the exact difference, but its posted up in the All Motor Forum somewhere.

 

Yes, advance the heck out of the timing. I think I may scratch the ecu upgrade for now. I am not sooo concerned with the extended rev limiter, but more with timing. I think the SMT6 will take care of that and its a lot cheaper. I am also trying to source a good price on a SAFC II. Oh yeah, lets not forget about headers as just about everyone has pointed out.

 

my thoughts exactly.......can u pM details on price for swap anyone anyone