I got the knock sensor code but I started the car with it disconnected. I reset the computer and drove the car a few miles. IF the sensor is bad, will the computer recognize that in a few miles, or does it take a while to figure it out? So far I have no codes in the computer. Also, I don't know if the sensor is bad, I've had the car for 2.5 years, put almost 50k on it and I haven't replaced it yet.

Before I get bashed, I tried checking the resistance but my meter display isn't working. Anyone know anything about it?

 

So you disconnected it and started the car like that and you got a code for it?

 

I was going to test the ohm resistance and neglected to plug it back in after I discovered my meter was toast. I figured it being unplugged would definitely trip the code. I plugged it back in, erased the codes and drove about 5 miles. No code when I returned. How long will it take to display the code again, if it is bad?

With the miles and age should I just say to hell with it and replace it anyway?

 

No need to replace if it's not broken. It's not what you consider a cheap part and the installation isn't that great either

Just drive around and check a week later

 

That advice works for me. I didn't know if they went bad and didn't necessarily have readings low enough to trip the computer. I think I will wait and see. Not much on tearing my hands up tonight anyway. Thanks.

Bill

 

No prob The code is a ghost code so check it a week later to see if it comes up

 

Code came back so I went ahead and replaced the KS. I found that using a ratchet to break the bolt loose, then sticking my LEFT hand in there, I was able to get it right out and replace it quickly. Was quite easy, not a scratch on me from that. Oh, I have big hands, ring finger is a 13.

What sort of power gain should I expect? How many miles before the [reset] ECU makes the adjustments?

 

If you have reset the ECU, you should feel an immediate difference in throttle response between a bad KS and good KS. Make sure the ECU hasn't reposted the KS code. When I replaced mine, I forgot to connect the subharness back - so I kept getting the KS code and I was like ... once I figured out that I had forgotten to connect the harness the code stayed off and there was a night/day performance difference.

Btw - I did it exactly like you - broke it free with a rachet, then just used my left hand to get in the cavity and unscrew the bolt. I was able to put the new one in and line up the bolt/hand tighten it without a scratch - the angle from the driver's side with the left arm/hand is perfect for the job.

 

Here I was thinking I discovered some great new method. I left my tools at home and went to my sister's house. Thought I would try this method. I was amazed, especially after the horror stories I heard about busted knuckles. Very easy, maybe easier with a stubby ratchet. Couldn't find that one.

Haven't noticed any great difference, felt a little better. Read one write up that said it would take a few days or a few miles. Think it was the motorvate site that said that. Anyway, I'm going to drive it tomorrow and see if it gets more noticable.

Any estimate on power gains?

 

bill - you have made sure the code hasn't reposted since you replaced the old KS right? I can't really estimate the power gain - but the driveability is completely different. No more hesitation on acceleration, smooth pull through the full RPM range, and I'm getting better mileage too.