Would you guys be interested in chrome moly (half the weight of regular steel) traction bars for 4th generation maximas? I'm going to test some on my car soon and I will be using the same mounting points that they use for the bars they make for B13 sentras.

They basically link the wheel tables to the chassis and kill wheel hop. Our cars have rubber bushings in the front suspension to eliminate vibrations but as a side effect the tables travel a lot causing bad wheel hop even in fairly stock cars (I know mine did when I was stock) but with traction bars we would have the best of both worlds; no vibrations and no wheel hop. There are obviously other reasons for wheel hop but the most effective way to get rid of it is to stiffen up the front end big time.

Hondas and a lot of Nissan have traction bars available to them but we're again left behind because we basically have family sedans.

It would help mostly while on street tires but I know they were able to get a 1.6 60 foot out of a FWD SR20 Sentra with only MT slicks and traction bars so I'd be interesting to see what the max can do with traction bars.

 

Gives an idea of what they look like (the ones they make for Sentras).

 

$$??????????????

 

$$$$$$$$$$$$$???????????????

 

intresting

 

How do these affect handling in auto-x etc..??

 

I'm very interested, and I can say I'd definately get them assuming they aren't retardedly expensive (like $300 max). When depends on the pricing though. How much do they go for for B13s

 

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=97933

 

There is no way I'm spending over $100 for one of those bars. I'll wait until they are $15 plus shipping on eBay. It looks like a really good idea. Just not something I would spend a lot of money on.

 

lol good luck with the $15 traction bar.

 

HAHAHA It was worth a try. HAHA

 

I was thinking of 199$, but that would be for both including shipping and all if it were in chrome moly (more expensive than steel) but if you guys weren't concerned about weight, could be a little cheaper. That would be cheaper than pretty much all I have seen for FWD cars. Those for Sentras are 209+ shipping and the ones I have seen for civics are 250+.

I prefer chrome moly over aluminum since it's not much heavier (half the weight of steel vs a third of the weight of steel for aluminum, so there is less than a 20% difference in weight) and far easier to work with. To give you an idea of the strength of chrome moly, NHRA requires the complete 10 point roll cage to be made of chrome moly instead of regular steel for cars running under 8.99 and/or over 150 mph in the 1/4 mile. Basically pro stock cars running 6s use chrome moly for their roll cage, so I trust it 200%. CM also resists better to heat/stress so I think it's worth the extra bucks.

One thing to keep in mind is that the welds would be mig, not tig. Still strong as f*ck, but doesn't look quite as good. I'll take strength over looks anyday though. And with the thickness of the rods it would be stupid strong. The guy that would be welding these has 11 years of experience and has done an awesome job on my dad's 10 point roll cage so that's not concern.

What is expensive is those 4 chrome rod ends w/bearings, they are stupid $$ for what they are. I have seen cheap ones go for less than what I would pay, but once again strength is a major concern and I'd sleep better at night If I paid 10-15$ more on each. There are several grades and I trust the higher end ones much more b/c I have seen what kind of abuse they can take. I have chrome moly examples of the entire bars with these rod ends (from a custom 4-link suspension with a Ford 9" 35 spline rear end. Stoooopid strong ).

Went back to the track tonight (on street tires) and wheel hop is ridiculous (couldn't do better than a 2.20 60 foot) so I'll be getting those done for my car quite soon.

Would be cool to pull a 1.6 60 foot on slicks with these I'm almost there.

Someone asked the same question in the thread brought up above:

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=97933

Stiffening up the front end seems to only have benefits. Can't wait to try some on my car.

 

Will these change ride quality for everyday driving? As it is, I need to put the Illuminas on and trash the AGX's because they squeaking and downright stiff. I commute with my car.

 

 

I won't say anything about ride quality until I try them first hand on mine, but from what I have read, you won't even know they are there when you're not driving the car hard, and people that have them leave them all the time for everyday driving, even though they take 5-10 minutes to remove.

And I am in the same boat as you, Illuminas will be going on in less than a month.

 

How exactly are you determining what the right lengths and mounting points are

 

The lenghts are adjustable and the mounting points would be the same as other FWD Nissans.

 

How are you determining even the general lengths? Too short and when the suspension moves it will pull the wheel back. Too long and it will shove the wheel forward when it's parallel

 

i would be interestes...would they get in the way of SFCs

 

Thanks for the info J. I just want to make sure they don't mess with the travel in anyway.

 

let us know if this would mess up any kind of travel and comfort

 

There is actually very little play in the length available between the wheel tables and the frame mounting point. They wouldn't be able to move forward or towards the rear, only up and down, thus killing wheel hop but letting the suspension do its job as it should.

I would have to check on where the SFC's are located, but I doubt there is anything other than the plastic fender protectors in the way.

 

I'm sure you have the worked out but think about a rod that is _____. Now think about a rod that is not perfectly parallel. ie..\ Now even though both rods are the same length, the slanted one is effectively shorter (end to end) as it's tilted. So as the bar gets more away from parallel, it's getting shorter and shorter. And if it's getting shorter, it's pulling whatever it's attached to toward it.

Or if the bar is installed slightly tilted ie.. \, then as it gets more parallel to the ground, it effectively gets longer. Pushing whatever it's attached to away from the other mounting point.

 

I almost eliminate that effect because I will be mounting them the closest possible to the mounting point of the wheel tables, so that effect will be extremely minimal, not to mention the bolts/bearings will absorb most of it.

 

Calling for 4 rod ends tomorrow for the prototype on my car:



I can get them delivered to me in less than a day so that will accelerate the process.

Thinking of a similar torque arm to hold the engine under load too.

 

Would this as benifical for a lowerewd suspension.
I was under the impression that having stiffer springs, tighter shocks pretty much elimenated wheel hop on maximas?

 

Interested, signing up for e-mail notifyz

 

I highly doubt it. It helps weight transfer but I don't see how it could help wheel hop. I think Nismo3114 is lowered on 18s and still gets bad wheel hop.

It might depend on whether you got a stock auto or a 5-speed with a VQ35 though.

 

Wrong impression. I had stiffer suspension than probably anyone on the board, maybe 1 or 2 people who road race/autoX had stiffer (500#F 400#R) and I still got bad wheelhop at the track on street tires.

 

thing is think most of wheel hop comes from the stock rim tire combo. But these would be great to have when you launch and so fourth I am really anticipating the results.

 

How much did those cost you?

Jeff

 

Signing UP........

 

They are 20.36 each +tax +9.95 shipping (the next day). They are closed tomorrow and their delivery guy already left so I won't be getting them until Tuesday.

Now I have to check for the nuts, chrome moly and metal to make the brackets.

 

I have been wanting something like this. I would be interested.

 

I will try to have them done and test them for the July 1st weekend at the track (there is a sport compact event, too). I should have all the materials by Tuesday or Wednesday next week.

The thread on the rod ends is 1/2 of an inch, so it should be strong as hell

 

looks like it might be a good mod, keep us posted.

 

i get plenty of wheel hop w/ 18" / 235 w/ a 1.5" drop and KYB gen 2 shocks but this is just me and i live where the is a F ton of pot holes

 

Even at the track you would get bad wheel hop, pavement doesn't have much to do with it.

 

bump .

 

subscribing.. definately interested

-Nick