matty

iTrader: (54)

Just a quick question:

I have 137K on my motor and I remember a while ago (over a year ago) someone talking about getting there EGR system Cleaned at Nissan and they have a service that cleans out the entire EGR system and its really good ?? Anything like this ??

Do people get this done at Nissan ?
Does it make a difference in any way ?
How much does it usually run price wise as Nissan ?
Is it worth it after you got it done ??

Thank you

-matt

matty

iTrader: (54)

Anyone ?? or am I thinking crazy ?

-matt

soontomaxima

Kind of off topic but still on at the same time - is there any place online to find technical blwon up pictures of these like could be found in a manuel?

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Unless you get a code or are failing smog tests, why would you want this done? Many smog tests now only run a OBDII computer check now too so you only need to make sure you get no codes.

matty

iTrader: (54)

It is suppose to make the car run better and feel alot better

Anyone know ?

-matt

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

If you look up the BG (makers for BG44, etc.) website, you will see they have a EGR cleaning service and a list of centers that are supposed to offer that service. When I called around the local places, none knew anything about the EGR service specifically, but offered to do the intake/fuel system cleaning... You could see if you have better luck.

As for the local dealers - they all offered to open up the EGR port/tube and clean it out for 200-300 bucks.

matty

iTrader: (54)

Well I have my Upper manifold off and Im putting in my new injectors so I have good access to the EGR system...what do you think they use to clean it ??

-matt

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Matt, the EGR system (exhaust gas recirculation) is a system designed to help your engine run more efficient. It opens up a small passage between the exhaust and your intake manifold to recirculate a small about of exhaust to be burnt yet again. This only happens when your crusing, little to no load on the engine. It also improves gas mileage slightly. If the system is working correctly, you wount have an error code. If a component fails, or not enough flow is detected, you'll get an EGR system error code.

If you don't have an error code, leave it alone.

The system is not open when your accellerating or idling so you really wount feel any changes in power or idle quality. The best thing you can do to enhance smooth accelleration is clean out the intake passages while you have everything apart. You can use intake or carb cleaner to get it all cleaned up.

I hope that helps you out.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

to what njmaxseltd said... I would clean out the EGR port on the plenum thoroughly - and also the guide tube that connects to the plenum - you may notice there is a build up in both of those. When I pulled my plenum (at 120k), the EGR port on the plenum was almost completely blocked with deposits. The tube end near the plenum was also quite constricted. I just used a pick and lots of intake/carb cleaner to break all that stuff free. I have pics of my plenum before/after - shoot me a PM if you want to see pics.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

If cleaning the EGR system from the manifold guide tube, I would open the EGR valve with negative pressure and then liberally spray in induction/carb cleaner as njmodi suggests. You can also use sea foam.

Umass021

My egr code is going off now. Should I replace the egr soilonoid valve?

matty

iTrader: (54)

Thanks Tom...always count on you for a good answer...alittle over a year ago I remember people talking about going to nissan for some kind of cleaning that really helps there car run better..I thought it was the EGR...guess its something else

Is it alright to srpay intake cleaner down into the lower manifold onto the valves before I put on my upper manifold ??

-matt

MaxesRule

What a coincidence!!! I've been wondering about this myself. I also have 137k on my car and have been trying to find pics or a how-to for cleaning the EGR system, because my CEL came on and threw a P1400 code. Can anyone provide any info on how to access and clean the EGR piping and sensors? I'd be most grateful!! Thanx.

DuMKuH

iTrader: (14)

njmaxseltd Could you give a link to the How to or tell me where it is in the stickies... I have looked it real quick and haven't find anything...Thanks

zx2max

iTrader: (1)

there is a link on the how to's stickies for 4th gen but the link now requires a password when before it would give you really good diagrams of where everything is located at. try just searching the site for egr related posts.

Sentinal

iTrader: (1)

I would also like to know how to clean the EGR system. I have had a code (EGR hi/low flow something) same day after I had my headers installed. The light has been on since then. I also have seafoam ready to be used soon, would running seafoam through the brake booster hose help clean out my EGR or will I have to take it off and clean it off by hand? I've also heard about getting the EGR soloenoid valve replaced. But I dont think that it has anything to do with the solenoid since it happened right after I drove it off where I got my headers installed. Maybe they didnt connect something or something got clogged while installing them. When I went back to them they had told me to come back the next day and that they will check it out, but I never went back since they take forever to get something done and they also said that the headers were built like crap and that they did not bolt right up. Anyways, anyone have a how-to on cleaning the system?

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Here are some pics of the dirty EGR tube, port on the plenum and the cleaned out port. You have to pull the plenum off the car to do this job properly.

Dirty EGR guide tube:


Dirty port on plenum:


Cleaned out plenum port:

knight71

Here is the thread you were looking for:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=90535

MaxesRule

Thanx for your input.
Although seeing as how I've already come across that link requiring a password while browsing through the stickies, your post would have been much more helpful if you actually provided the password or pointed to someone who did.
What I need are directions, steps or pictures of how to access the EGR plumbing and what parts need to be removed in doing so.

MaxesRule

The search function has been disabled since like the 1st century B.C. and since I'm not yet a donating member, searching the .org any other way is a GIGANTIC waste of time!! Thanx though.

MaxesRule

[QUOTE=njmodi]Here are some pics of the dirty EGR tube, port on the plenum and the cleaned out port. You have to pull the plenum off the car to do this job properly.

So pulling the upper plenum is ALL that's necessary to freely access the EGR system plumbing & sensors?

MaxesRule

Thanks a bunch for the pics nj!

MaxesRule

And thanx to you too Knight for that insightful thread!
It looks like I now have 3 or 4 reasons for pulling my intake plenum. lol O joy!!!
1) clean EGR ports and test sensors
2) replace leaking rear valve cover gasket since switching to synthetic oil about a year ago
3) easier access to knock sensor to properly tighten to spec (I know this requires pulling the lower im too but w/ the upper out of the way this is MUCH easier )
4) practice for 00 VI swap

zx2max

iTrader: (1)

i also have CEL on for egr. it is the code for egrc sol. valve. I am going to clean out the egr system this week. I will let you know how it goes.

MaxesRule

See that's what I was getting at. How are you gonna gain access to the EGR system? How and what needs to be removed?
Sounds great, good luck!!! I know I'll b needin some.

MaxesRule

Does anyone recommend buying new EGR and TB gaskets when removing the upper plenum? Probably should since they'd both likely cost less than $10 at my local auto store huh? N/m question answered.

zx2max

iTrader: (1)

well my best friend is a mechanic so we are going to do it at his shop after hours. I am not sure how everything is coming apart. once he tells me how he wants to do it i will let you know.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

I'll try to answer as many of your questions as I can.

1. The EGR system itself contains many individual pieces (valve, solenoid, tubing to the exhaust manifold, tube to the plenum, vaccuum tubing...). The only parts I cleaned (that tend to be the ones that get clogged) are the EGR guide tube (shown in the pic I posted) and the EGR port on the rear of the plenum (right below/behind the IACV).

2. The only good way to clean out the plenum port is to pull the plenum. This obviously means removing the intake, harness, throttle cables and all the other goodies/hoses connected to the TB, IACV, and plenum itself. You will also have to undo the 2 bolts holding the EGR guide tube to the plenum.

3. Once you have the plenum off, you can clean out the EGR port on the plenum. You can try to clean the EGR tube while it is still attached to the car, but the best way is to undo the two 12mm bolts holding it to the EGR valve at its lower end. These are a little tricky (or were for me)...

4. Use air-intake cleaner and pick to clean out the EGR port and guide tube.

5. I would definitely recommend replacing the plenum gasket, EGR gaskets and TB/IACV gaskets (if you pull those off the plenum) when you do this - no point reusing old gaskets when you get get new ones for a few bucks.

6. Since you mention doing the rear valve cover gaskets - while you have the rear valve cover off, make sure you replace the spark plug tube gaskets too (in addition to the main cover gasket). These are prone to leak too. There are also 10 rubber grommets/washers that seat into each bolt hole (for reassembly) - replace those too. Be careful to watch the torque on the valve cover bolts - the FSM has the specs in inch-lbs - several members have sheared bolts by trying to torque them down to 60 ft-lbs (simple mistake, but easily made).

7. To make the job easier (plenum removal is the trickiest part in all this), I would recommend first-time plenum removers to remove the TB and IACV before trying to get to the egr guide tube bolts and the rear plenum bracket bolts. It will go much smoother. With the TB and IACV off, you get a good chance to clean out the TB properly and also clean out all the plenum passages (TB, IACV and EGR port).

8. Be careful not to drop anything down the lower IM ports (I know its obvious, but just thought I'd mention it).

9. Also be careful not to drop anything into the heads when you pull the valve cover off. I would recommend OEM parts for the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. I tried using after-market gaskets and was not impressed with the fitting - so I ended up leaving my car dismantled until I could get my hands on some Nissan replacement parts. They are cheap - no reason not to use them.

Cheers.

MaxesRule

Thanx but I think I already got my answer. lol

MaxesRule

[QUOTE=njmodi]
4. Use air-intake cleaner and pick to clean out the EGR port and guide tube.

Excuse my ignorance but do u mean an ice Pick?

MaxesRule

[QUOTE=njmodi]

5. I would definitely recommend replacing the plenum gasket, EGR gaskets and TB/IACV gaskets (if you pull those off the plenum) when you do this - no point reusing old gaskets when you get get new ones for a few bucks.

Isn't the plenum gasket made of thick rubber and therefore is re-usable?
I already bought it a while back when I first realized I had to remove the plenum but then read that it's not necessary since it's rubber. I agree that the stock one is re-usable.
I agree with you though, that all the others should be replaced.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=MaxesRule]http://www.northerntool.com/images/p...1501511_lg.jpg

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=MaxesRule]I think you could reuse it - but for the effort involved in pulling all that stuff apart, it just wasn't worth a leak to me - so I spent the 8 bucks and replaced that one too. This is one of those jobs where is almost ALL labor and very little in parts... Since I intend to keep my car for a while, I took the time to replace all the gaskets that I had touched - to avoid future pesky problems (vacuum leaks, hissing, etc.).

MaxesRule

Again excuse my ignorance but do they sell those @ auto stores? Looks more like something they'd sell at your local dental supply warehouse if u ask me. lol Just askin.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

I am not sure where you'll find one of these... i happen to have one in my tool box - and I have no idea how I ended up with it (I know I didn't buy it!).

MaxesRule

I priced the rear valve cover gasket set (including all spark plug tube seals) at $49.99 at my local Auto Zone. Doesn't sound too cheap to me and I doubt the OEM ones are any "cheaper".
Still, good advice though if you say u already tried aftermarket ones and they didn't do it for ya, in that case I'd agree that the OEMs are probably worth the price. Btw, what brand aftermarket gaskets did u use. The ones I priced were FELPROs I think.

MaxesRule

lol You mean someone else had access to your toolbox?!? ::shudder:: Scary thought!

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

That FEL-PRO kit is what I ordered. That kit actually is a good deal - it includes everything for both the front and rear valve covers:

Things I didn't like (these are of course subjective statements):

1. Seam on the main gasket that looked like it was going to spring a leak (the seam is exactly where the FSM states we should use sealent - because thats the area thats prone to leaking. NOTE: the OEM gasket has a seam at the same spot, but it was bound with much tighter tolerances.

2. The spark plug seals looked different and not as durable as the OEM ones I removed.

Give the amount of time it takes to do the job, I figured I'd spend the extra money on OEM parts.

The OEM parts will cost you 50 bucks or so for each valve cover side (including the main gasket, each spark plug tube gasket and the bolt grommets). So the OEM parts (no kit available), individually end up being twice as expensive as the FEL-PRO kit, but I wasn't going to take any chances.

I have limited time and was willing to spend the extra $25 (per valve cover) to be sure that I wouldn't have fitment/repeat leak issues.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

It must have been the EGR fairy.

MaxesRule

I agree w/ your reasoning. Might as well use OEM parts and know for sure that u won't have fitment issues down the road than try saving $$ by using aftermarket parts and knowing theres that remote possibility.
Question though, how does at 50 bucks = only an extra $25?? Wouldn't it b an xtra 50? Jus makin sure I undastan wut u wrote.