Hey Guys...

After just getting my maxima it seems i'm having some trouble with the clutch. Its always been a little stuff to get into gear because of Short throw shifter, But now its being very frustrating...
One time i'll be driving it around and it'll shift through the gears fine. Then the next momeent i'll try to downshift or get into first it'll be very stuff. Then to a point where i won't be able to get into any gear no matter how hard i try, making sure the clutch is ALL the way down. i won't be able to get through any of there gears or worse into first from a stop. Like the clutch won't dissengage. The pedals all the way to the floor, but it just will not go in. Then the rest of the gears are like that. More frustrating when you're trying to downshift though, espcially off an offramp and you have 6 cars behind you and you can't get into first or even second. So the only way i can get into gear is to be stopped and shut off car and put it in gear without clutch...
It seems to go from easy to hard to impossible like that after some driving or a little interstate. I don't understand. I maybe was thinking tempature realated but its never really consistant with that either.

Talked to a friend and he thought it might be a leak or something where air was getting into hydralic line. The Slave Cylinder was replaced recently. When its bad its to a point where when i try to start it in gear it'll lurk forward. Its wierd though, cause it i leave it set for a few hours i'll hop in and it'll shift really smoothly, but eventually after awhile it'll get tougher and tougher.

Anyone have any suggestions? I have a exedy clutch and fidanza flywheel and pacesetter sts. I love driving my car when its being nice, but its such a Pain in the *** when its not working right.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

Does sounds like you master or slave cylinder...

 

Yeah, i know the slave cylinder was replaced recently, but maybe the the master needs to be checked.

 

Check the fluid and hyraulic lines for leakage. It should be pretty obvious when it does leak.

 

Okay, i'll check it out, thanks

 

Today driving work it was doing fine (about a 30 mile drive), i stopped at a store for a about 5 min (shut car off), when i got back i took off and it began getting tighter, until the point where at a stop light it wouldn't go into first. When i got it into first, the clutch all the way in would cause the car to creep forward. I pumped the clutch a bit and messed with it through second until finally it would disengage. Then i got back on the hwy. When i then got off it was bad, but after a little driving in town again it went back to normal easy shifting.

I'll check this afternoon for air leaks, but i thought this was just a really weird problem.

 

If no available leaks, just bleed the system. There might be air bubbles in there.

 

I suggest you get it checked out before you are stranded 30 miles from home.

 

I'm good as long as i can get it into gear. My dad works in same area so not like i'm alone. Thanks for the concern though

 

on bleeding the hydraulic system.

 

So if anything should i just tell my shop to flush the hydralic system out?

 

I have a '97 5 spd. with a ACT dual friction clutch and the same happened to me. My experience was a little different though, the car was tough getting into gear for a few days untill I couldn't get it into gear at all. The clutch fluid reservoir was drained, but no leak.
The reservoir is against the firewall in the right corner, a white plastic cylinder. There is a nozzle coming out of it to bleed the system, it only took 5 minutes and fixed my problem. I used DAT 4 or DAT 5 brake fluid and it's been fine since, so I would give it a try. If the clutch reservoir is full I would suggest still bleeding it to get air out, this can cause damage to your clutch and/or flywheel.

 

Why don't you have your release pin/slave cylinder and clutch fork checked out.

It sounds like a similar problem I'm currently experiencing, as my 98 5spd is up on the lift this very minute.

For a quick DIY visual inspection, remove the air inlet tube, (take care to remove the sensor in the back section of the tube). This will give you visual access to the slave cylinder and release pin assembly, as well as the clutch fork (directly on top of the transmission). Have someone depress the clutch as you check for smooth motion of the pin and fork. If you observe that the fork in either not moving, or not returning to the full released position, you problem may involve the clutch fork itself, or the throwout bearing, or the clutch plate pins. Since you noted that you had the clutch replaced, I doubt it is the two latter.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the help guys, i'll try a few things.