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ECU Code 35 (EGR Temp Sensor) ??

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Old May 19, 2001 | 07:35 PM
  #1  
SuperSix
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Help!

Hope I can get some help here...

I'm getting that code on my wife's 1996 i30, 59k miles.

I *hear* they are very expensive sensors to replace, and was wondering if something else might be triggering the MIL light besides a defective sensor. Is this a common code?

TIA,
Mark S.
Old May 20, 2001 | 09:51 AM
  #2  
SuperSix
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BuMp to the top!
Old May 20, 2001 | 10:27 AM
  #3  
Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,601
DTC 0305

Originally posted by SuperSix
Help!

Hope I can get some help here...

I'm getting that code on my wife's 1996 i30, 59k miles.

I *hear* they are very expensive sensors to replace, and was wondering if something else might be triggering the MIL light besides a defective sensor. Is this a common code?

TIA,
Mark S.
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0305 points to a problem with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Temperature Sensor. This sensor is a thermistor (a resistor with a value which varies inversely with temperature). The EGRTS is used by the Engine Control Module to test the EGR system operation. Since the signal from the EGRTS is not used for engine operation your car should run perfectly well despite having the Check Engine Light on.

Possible causes of DTC 0305 include ...
- harness or connectors (The EGRTS circuit is open or shorted)
- bad EGRTS
- malfunction elsewhere in the EGR system

The EGRTS may be tested with an ohmmeter.
- at "D" degrees F the resistance should "R" (in Megohms) should be ...
D = 32, R = 0.68-1.11
D = 122, R = 0.09-0.12
D = 212, R = 0.017-0.024
Old May 20, 2001 | 10:59 AM
  #4  
SuperSix
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Thank you so much. The question I have is:

Where the heck is it? I have Mitchell On Demand, and there's no pictures or anything. Can you direct me to where it is/what to look for?

M.O.D. says it's "Top left rear of engine, at crankshaft pulley"..

Hmm.. i need to look up the wire colors..

Again, thanks!!!!
Old May 20, 2001 | 11:21 AM
  #5  
SuperSix
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I think I found it. The wire colors going to it are BLU/OR and BLK. I tested it, and got 1.57Mohms@ 90F ambient.

Looks like it is bad. The good thing, is that means it's not something else unknown causing that part to fail..

Anyhow. This is the sensor I tested, the wire colors going in match, the two small wires coming out of the connector go to a fitting under the intake..

Caution - Files are ~70k in size.
http://ihadav8.com/ets.jpg
http://ihadav8.com/etscls.jpg

Thanks for your reply!!
Old May 20, 2001 | 12:09 PM
  #6  
Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,601
Originally posted by SuperSix
I think I found it. The wire colors going to it are BLU/OR and BLK. I tested it, and got 1.57Mohms@ 90F ambient.

Looks like it is bad. The good thing, is that means it's not something else unknown causing that part to fail..

Anyhow. This is the sensor I tested, the wire colors going in match, the two small wires coming out of the connector go to a fitting under the intake..

Caution - Files are ~70k in size.
http://ihadav8.com/ets.jpg
http://ihadav8.com/etscls.jpg

Thanks for your reply!!
My Maxima is a '99, and it has a different EGR setup from earlier VQ30DE engines. I think the connector pictured in your second image is the right one.

Money-saver idea #1) Before buying a replacement sensor, obtain a resistor in the 0.025-0.100 Megohm range from an electronics hobbyist or store. Plug that into the connector in place of the suspect EGRTS. Reset the Engine Control Module. If the Check Engine Light stays off with this substitute resistor, that increases confidence in your diagnosis.

Money-saver idea #2) Certain elements of the emission control system are covered by a special warranty with longer duration than the basic warranty. I do not know the specifics of this warranty. Check with your dealer. It is possible that your '96 I30 is eligible for a no-cost warranty repair on this item.
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