getting bolts out of y-pipe to cat
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getting bolts out of y-pipe to cat
i apologize if this is listed elsewhere but actually couldnt find it anywhere including the how to's. i might be an idiot...sorry.
the problem is with the bolts connecting the y to the cat..they will not budge...ive tried liquid wrench about 20 times total and working them back and forth...also tried an impact wrench which in turn broke my socket...im somewhat scared to get heat underneath my car, too much stuff that can go wrong with that scenario and heating those up can in turn lower the tensile strength of the bolt and just make it weaker and more prone to breaking and a cheater bar will more than likely shear off the nut and rest of the bolt because ive done that before in the same spot putting in a short throw. just wanted to know if anyone has any suggestions as far as what i can do..please help.
p.s. sorry bout the run on sentence, got lazy with grammar.
the problem is with the bolts connecting the y to the cat..they will not budge...ive tried liquid wrench about 20 times total and working them back and forth...also tried an impact wrench which in turn broke my socket...im somewhat scared to get heat underneath my car, too much stuff that can go wrong with that scenario and heating those up can in turn lower the tensile strength of the bolt and just make it weaker and more prone to breaking and a cheater bar will more than likely shear off the nut and rest of the bolt because ive done that before in the same spot putting in a short throw. just wanted to know if anyone has any suggestions as far as what i can do..please help.
p.s. sorry bout the run on sentence, got lazy with grammar.
I had to go to a muffler shop and have them torch the bolts off. 7 days of PB blaster did not work. Force did not work. Heating did not work. Start making phone calls to exhaust shops. Use the one that gives the lowest quote for the job. BE SURE TO TELL THEM AHEAD OF TIME YOU ARE INSTALLING AFTERMARKET PARTS OR THEY WILL TRY TO SCREW WITH YOU LATER! Also tell them about the bolts that may need to be heated or torched. THEN get an estimate from them. This way you have no expensive surprises when you go to pay the bill!
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this is going to have to be a diy job tho...ive torn the top of the engine down getting ready to drop the tranny. ive used the pb blaster also...none of that stuff is working. the car is currently on jackstands w/o a battery, airbox, starter, top tranny to engine bolts and clutch slave...took a while to get that off. also if i break them off then i have to drill them out..and that will be horrible underneath the car.
I'd say your best option right now would be to leave the bolts alone. If you need to pull the exhaust to work on the engine, pull the whole thing down. It's a biitch to handle it that way, but if you have to you have to.
Then when your car is all set to go (except for exhaust) take it to the closest shop. I'm sure that running on the original exhaust components for a 1-2 mile drive would be okay...
Then when your car is all set to go (except for exhaust) take it to the closest shop. I'm sure that running on the original exhaust components for a 1-2 mile drive would be okay...
Just cut them off w/ an angle grinder or buy a $5 propane torch and heat them up...the cat itself gets really hot so heating that area isn't a big deal at all. New bolts cost like $2 each, well worth the hassle of trying to preserve the old ones.
does anyone know the size that should be used for the y-pipe to the cat n the cat to the b-pipe? or just whatever fits in there??? obviously ones close to it, but i just wanna make sure that it doesn't really matter.
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