Loe max

iTrader: (6)

I think you need to learn how to stick with one subject instead of subtly instigating another arguement to try to favor yourside. How does not owning a Maxima have anything to do with giving out an objective look into a K&N filter. It applies to any car, and make, any year that K&N makes a filter for. And how exactly is your opinion unbiased,?

Increased throttle response=placebo
Increased growl=placebo
Increased MPG=Different driving style, again placebo effect and you've already stated that your old filter at 22,500miles is already dirty.
Increased spending=marketing scam that you bought into and you need to justify the price for a useless object.


4X4 if your looking for performance and reliability, you might as well get a short ram or CAI on Ebay that actually does something at the same cost while still contaminating your MAF with oil instead of getting a panal filter that does nothing and still contaminating your MAF.

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

You'll just be changing your oil more frequently. The MAF screen, although not there to block things and more to smooth out turbulance entering the MAF, will still block out the larger objects that could potentially damage your engine.

Bobo

Tune-up your car. How far is Mississauga? Go there and buy a stainless steel Budget y-pipe and you will have plenty of stopping distance.

Dan

iTrader: (2)

I think it's worth it. I noticed better throttle response and a nice sound at WOT.

4x4Max

iTrader: (12)

Well, i just got the K&N filter and drove about 30 miles with it. I notice that the engine sounds nicer all around. It's not too quiet and not too loud, just perfect. Now talking about performance, it seems to have a negative placebo effect on me. The car seems to accelerate noticebly slower, but that may be because its extremely hot outside. Another problem with this filter is that the fit is questionable. It's hard to snap on the clips to the airbox with the filter in it, and there are actual millimeter gaps between the top and bottom of the airbox now. Yes, I'm sure that i got the right model number. At this point, I don't think this is worth the $40 that I paid for it, but my opinion may change when it gets a little cooler outside.

joecraps

I drove on the same K&N panel on two maximas: 92 SE (50,000 miles)and placed in in my 95 SE and drove another 60,000 miles on it. Actually the K&N was in the 92 when I bought it. I recently switched to OEM paper and having what I see as significant experienced with K&N I cannot detect any difference - throttle response, MPG, etc.

I switched to OEM because I have read that a number of users are seeing higher silicon levels in their oil drain anaylses. However, this coud be due to poor servicing of the panel - re-oiling, etc. I re-oiled mine every 15K or so.

So I really think its a "wash" of one versus the other. If you get a K&N make damn sure you clean and re-oil it occasionally - don't dry it with a hair dryer and don't over-oil it!! I also suggest taking it out every oil change and knocking the debris out of it too.

Another thing that I find interesting - on the K&N package it says something along these lines: "it provides better filteration the longer you drive it" Dirt acts as a filter!?? hummmm? Guess I'm getting crappy filteration right out of the box!

Bobo

You probably oiled it too frequently.

joecraps

rmurdoch you obviously are a K&N believer. I have no problem with that and I say if you think it is doing something good then by all means use it. The issue here I see is degrees of filteration versus airflow. Oiling too frequently, applying too much oil, ect. Me, I got tired of guessing. In my experience I think if you want performance your not going to get it from a cotton fiber filter versus OEM paper. I have yet to see MPG gains (my own experience) or HP gain posted by others. Don't get me wrong, I would love to spend $40 and drop in anther 5 HP or so.. I just don't see in happening until I see otherwise.

Frank Fontaine

That's hilarious! I couldn't agree more.

My g/f is a clinical pharmacologist so she deals with clinical trials, etc. It's no joke, some patients' conditions improve with placebos, but that has to do with physiology. I can't see how just because someone believes their "throttle response is better" or "there's more flow to the motor" or "millions of other buyers can't be wrong" that they actually achieve better mpgs. But then again since when is anything reliable and valid statistically on this forum anyway?

Forget about the money, plenty of people here have it and don't care about value. But a cleaned & reoiled K&N has LESS airflow than a new OEM. If someone has K&N material from 1998 or so, it will show that. The marketers removed the data, which is smart if they want to sell the product. And with a new OEM going for $7.40 no tax/free shipping, it's worth considering.

This website said 2-5 HP gain with K&N panel in 1998--no joke. So I bought the K&N. I know that isn't true.

Bobo

How's that 87 octane gas treating you these days, Frank Fontaine? Higher octane must be a placebo effect as well!

p00tan6

iTrader: (2)

Ide stick with oem nissan paper filters every 30k. It all depends if you want to spend $40 at once for a filter.

99SEL4ME

Damn!! I just ordered the K&N filter from Courtesy and is in transit. Should be here by tomorrow or Monday. reading through these posts, I see more cons than pros for the filter. the one most irking me is the oil contaminating the MAF sensor! WTF!!! Should I send this back for a refund and get an OEM one? Now I'm confused. BTW, Suspension being done tomorrow. Illuminas, H-Techs and 18x8 Enkei ZR-1's in Gunmetal. Pics up tomorrow evening.

Bobo

If you are using a stock airbox you won't contaminate any MAF on a 4th Gen Maxima. Just don't over oil the K&N filter when the time comes which is probably 30K or so after you buy it.

Maxima lover

I decided to go get some proof on weather or not the K&N actually improved acceleration over a generic paper filter. I mounted my radar gun to the dash and grabbed a stopwatch. I went to an industrial road with no traffic that was straight as well as flat. Since I have a 5 speed I didn?t want the results to be affected by my launch, so I got it going in first gear and let it off the gas and let roll on its own at 4 MPH. Then I punched it and started the stopwatch. I stopped it as soon as the radar gun read 60.

I did 3 runs with the K&N that has about 6k on it, then I did 3 runs with the Fram that has about 3K on it, then 2 more with the K&N, and then 2 more with the Fram.

K&N
8.18
8.14
8.10
8.16
8.23

Fram
8.46
8.43
8.40
8.37
8.50

K&N average- 8.16
Fram average- 8.43

I have nothing performance wise done to my car yet. The only thing different from stock about my intake is 1 3" hole in the air box. I tried as hard as I could to make the results as accurate as possible.

vqmax

thanks man, i already knew that tho.

Frank Fontaine

new K&N vs. new OEM--K&N has greater airflow (at nearly 6X the cost)

cleaned and reoiled K&N vs. new OEM--new OEM has greater airflow

That data was on the K&N website, as well as the pamphlet in 1998. You could say they shot themselves in the foot. The data is no longer on the website.

The question becomes why would you put something back into the airbox that was not as good as the original?

It's not a big deal. But I like the placebo idea. Sometimes peace-of-mind is worth more than $50. If a person puts the K&N in and feels there's more response, power, better mileage, quicker 0-60 times, that $50 is a lot less than upgrading the car which costs north of $30k. So it's a win-win for K&N and the car owner. All's well that ends well.

Bobo

If you ever took your car on the highway and got it above 5,000 rpm, Bonka, you would feel the difference.

Bobo

What makes you so sure that a re-oiled K&N filter does not flow as well as an OEM filter, particularly if its cleaned properly. And don't say you saw it on a K&N website. They wouldn't be that stupid to post something like that!

Maybe you dreamt it, you know like the BMW in the sky, lol!

Travibe

wow, i was thinking about getting a K&n the other day, but i didnt realize it would turn into a d*mn argument....i dont think im going to get one, just stick wit hthe regular 5$ filter for me thank you very much.

99SEL4ME

I guess I'll send the K&N back.

dayglo

relaxrelax guys holy ****!
im going to buy a K&N right now just to try it out and because i have the oil and cleaner but i took my popcharger off..and am keeping the stock intake for good, hacked
can you all just &**&%ing hug

Bobo

And for the naysayers out there, I trust this objective evidence is not being paid for by K&N. I noticed the car in the test is a 5-speed.

I trust the vast majority of the naysayers drive automatics and wouldn't realize the most benefits from the K&N filter until the 5K to 6.5K range and probably never see that. For those people, maybe a Civic is your next best alternative.

joecraps

Alright ..alright! I guess filtration doesn't matter to you guys. Well, crap I'm gonna install some window screen material from home depot in my box to keep the really big bugs out and grab a stop watch!! I'm guessing if I change my oil every 1K or so my engine won't blow from all the sand getting in there! Oh wait, there is a screen in from of the MAF so why put anything in the box!!! Free HP, I like it!

What's an engine rebuild when you can gain a whopping .3-.4 0-60!

Next week I'll remove my passenger seat, spare tire, and anything else to lighten the car. - That should be good for another .3 or so......

Bobo

My throttle body is as clean as a whistle and has never been cleaned before!
Where's Chicken Little when we need him - the sky is falling, the sky is falling!

joecraps

Probaby all that sand and road salt you are sucking - scowers the tB clean.
Who needs cleaners - drive it clean while the added dirt in the K&N improves filteration as it clogs!
HehE!!

Bobo

I've just turned 59K on my 95SE. We have mild winters; if it does snow it only lasts for a day or two and I don't drive in it. The roads aren't sanded and salt is not an issue. The Maxima has only been on an unpaved road once and I've owned it since day 1. I am not worried about elevated silicon levels in my oil. My K&N filter has 7K on it.

I will monitor it for cleanliness at about 25K, but probably won't clean or re-oil it until it has at least 30K on it.

joecraps

Enjoy the ride. I agree to disagree.

Bobo

That's your prerogative! It's called freedom of choice, you know, just like some people wouldn't buy a Maxima that is pebble beige in color.

Frank Fontaine

Talk about a half-truth, huh? Yes, the way the K&N is designed, the dirt is suspended in oil, blah blah blah. But the airflow is inversely proportional the the amount of dirt, so as the so called filter is able to filter more dirt, its airflow is being reduced. That's been my point all along. Short of the very first time that a K&N is installed, it will always have less airflow than a new OEM once its been cleaned and reoiled.

As far as going 30k between cleanings, that's foolish imho. Since I paid for the thing, I clean it every oil change. Sure, perhaps optimum is somewhere around 7500 to 12500, but like I said, I paid and overpaid for the filter and cleaning kit, so I'm going to use it.

Wanna hear something else that nobody has brought up? Upon inspection of my K&N today, I can see the rubber seal is aging (cracking) and eventually will probably disintegrate. After all, it's rubber, and it's been in the car 7 years. Even if the filter medium is ok, what if the seal fails? With OEM, you get all new medium every time, all for a paltry $7.40. You restore the intake to 100%, unlike K&N which is probably in the 70-79% range when cleaned.

One has to consider the big picture. It's like driving with 10 yr. old tires because they're not worn-out yet. Tread is not the only part of the tire that can show wear. My RS-A's sidewalls were cracked after 4 1/2 yrs on the road. Real strange to ignore that considering how inexpensive tires are nowadays.

Bobo

Your K&N air filter is wearing out because its been cleaned and handled too often. Another slight at my RSAs, Frank Fontaine? They are showing no signs of cracking or deterioration but will be replaced in a matter of time, perhaps this fall. I don't drive the Max much in the winter so they may last until next spring.

How is that 87 octane gas treating you! I guess its one way to save for a BMW, lol.

Bobo

Well I've found some empirical evidence that backs up the statement that there are performance gains from using a K&N air filter.

Please see the 3rd Gen thread entitled: Easy HP. GR Motor Sports, with the use of a Dynojet Chassis dyno, state that they achieved almost 4HP (almost 3%) gains by using a K&N air filter on a BMW 528i. The article goes on to mention other relatively inexpensive steps to take to increase HP.

I rest my case!

aBoZoG

worth a buy

Frank Fontaine

4 HP, that defies common sense. If you removed the airbox altogether I doubt that 528 would get 4 more HP. This forum claimed 2-5 HP back in 1998, why was that grid taken down?

You rest your case? No wonder UBC slipped to #4 in Canada.

Bobo

Your response really doesn't warrant a rebuttal, Frank Fontaine. All I can say is you are a piece of work. Frank - black is white. Everyone else - no, black is black. Frank - no, it isn't black is white, lol!

mindlessoath

iTrader: (1)

i suggest buying a cold air intake, it will be better in my perspective but mabe not everyones.

anyways, i have a question about K&N filters since i have a cold air intake from stillen and im not sure when the last time it was cleaned.

i went to jiffy lube and those guys wanted alot of money i know trying to make me buy alot of stuff, i was like no no nononononononononono.
but they said my filter was really really dirty. i was like ya ya ya, k&n filters dont need to be cleaned that often, so im going to wait.

when do you guys suggest cleaning them? the guy i bought the car from said i shouldnt have to clean it even if it was dirty, i was like, hey the intake takes air from outside and puts it in the car, if i block the airway with lots of dirt thats not good. so i showed him off i guess, but he was going by what k&n advertising suggests i guess.

what should i do guys? and whats the process to do so? (time too?)

Armelius

rmurdock you and a few others need to get off the anti-87tism. Says in the good maxima book that all octanes above 87 is acceptable (and even under 87 in mountainous regions) unless you get a knock.

That simple.

As long as it's not dirty any air filter will do. You want to pay 50 bux for one go ahead. While your at it get behind rmurdock in the 91 and above octane lane.

Bobo

By the kit and clean it yourself. It would appear that you have no idea how long its been since the filter has been cleaned if ever, but it needs to be done. I haven't cleaned mine yet as it only has 7K on it and its still very clean. It wouldn't take very long to clean it and oil it and let it dry say overnight.

Bobo

I happen to have used 91 octane or higher less than 20% of the time since I've owned my Maxima which is going on 11 years. Until recently I used 89 octane most of the time, but have started using a newly-introduced 90 octane gas which is being sold at 87 octane prices. Canadian gas has more additives in it than US gas. I am comfortable in using 89 octane gas in Canada, but I had a bad experience about 3 months ago when I bought 89 Chevron in Blaine, Washington. The car missed under load but stopped when I used the gas up.

So to reiterate I am not necessarily a proponent of premium gas, other than in hot weather when I go on road trips and have to do a lot of climbing into the Interior of BC, up to above 7,000 feet in elevation from sea level where I live. I also used Chevron 92 octane a fair bit last winter and the car may have felt a little more responsive, but I'm not sure of that.

However, I have never used 87 octane gas in my Maxima and have no intentions of using it. I don't condone street racing, but good luck if you're running 87 octane, you may need it.

Armelius

Hehe. My max passed the 250k mile mark. 87 all the way. These engines are tanks. The 87 Pathfinder engine too if it wasn't belt driven. Go buy some octane boost if you are afraid of putting 87 in your car. If it starts to knock then throw in the extra crap. If you get 90 for the same price go with that. Or 89 not much difference. Studys around here say there isn't very much difference and will not make much difference in your car. Just go high if it knocks.

Bobo

I know someone who has a 99 Maxima and all he has put in it in the two years and change he has owned the car is 87 octane.

I guess it depends on what kind of performance you wanted out of your car. If I were into racing I'd buy 94 octane which is available locally at at least 5 of the major chains. I am not a big believer in additives, would never use an octane booster, but am considering using a bottle of Chevron Techron I have before my next oil change.

By the way, you haven't owned your car for the entire 250K and I suspect you have absolutely no idea what percentage of the total miles have been driven using 87 octane gas.