blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

is it necessary to drain the transmission fluid like it says on the motorvate instructions? My friend replaced his and said he didnt have to but it wasnt on a maxima. He said a little fluid leaked out but not much. Also is there a way to do this w/o messing up alignment?

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

If any leaks out, at the very least you should top it off when you are done. When I changed my passenger side axle, about a quart leaked out and I just filled it back up. Replacing everything would probably be better, but its not a must. And yes it can mess up the alignment.

Chickan

iTrader: (12)

just make sure to top it off and you should be ok.

SpeedyMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Correct me if im wrong if you have a 5spd it will leak, but if you have auto i dont think it will

blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

did some searching at that appears to be correct, or at the very least the auto seems to leak much less. I will try it out this weekend and report back. I wish I didnt have to mess up my alignment tho cuz I just got it done.

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

Seems like it cv boot/axle time all over the org all of a sudden. I did mine two weeks ago. Replaced the driver side cv boot and the vehicle definitely pulls to that side now, so alignment is needed.

blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

ive heard that if you use chalk to draw where the strut mount attached to the steering knuckle and put it back to that exact same spot you can avoid an alignment. I guess I can try it out and see. It kinda makes sense but then again 1 degree off and ur alignment is messed up.

bill927

Don't take the strut off. If you separate the ball joint you can leave the strut on. I don't care what anyone says about motorvate or whatever. Separate the ball joint and leave the strut bolts alone. When you remove the strut it will be necessary to align the car. I got some guy responding to my post telling me you had to remove the strut. You do not need to remove those bolts. Separate the ball joint and pull the hub out while the steering arm and strut are still attached. I did mine this way and my alignment seems fine. I just did mine last week, both of them. Oh, and I didn't drain the gear oil. I lost about a quart and simply replaced it.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

The FSM says you don't have to realign even when removing the struts. Even if you wanted to, there's not any way to adjust camber, unless you get an aftermarket camber kit. The only front end alignment possible is with the tie rods, and removing the struts doesn't change toe-in.

4DRSpeed

iTrader: (22)

I'm gonna need a new CV boot. Where can I find one realitvely inexpensive?

blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

I got my kit from www.courtesyparts.com for $27 but there are lots of places that sell it. Its a common problem and any nissan dealership will have it. I also saw it at jerry rome nissan and midway nissan.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

I would NOT do it this way.

1. Removing the knuckle to strut bolts will not cause an alignment to be needed.

2. Removing the knucle to strut bolts is easier than separating the lower ball joint.

3. When removing the lower ball joint a special tool is required to avoid damage to the joint. Using a pickle fork will work, but the joint will be damaged and nissan does not sell replacement lower ball joints. A new LCA must be ordered. Perhaps you could reuse the ball joint, but then you would be a retard.

4. Just did a CV job my friends 96 and you get a lot more movement and wiggle room from the hub by removing the knuckle to strut bolts.

blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

thanks for the heads up. I was just about to start too. I have coilovers with camber plates so I think ill need an alignment no matter what.

also can anyone shed light on this instruction from motorvate. its the only part im kinda confused about.

Left: Use a large screw driver to pry out the inner CV (not shown). Make sure you don't damage the inner CV seal or your tranny will leak.

i guess the only real way to know is the go and try. Im guessing this is the part necessary to pop the cv shaft out of the transmission.

bill927

OK, don't do it my way. Do it so you need an alignment. I changed the boots on my ball joints while I had them apart, no damage to the ball joint. To each his own. Worked well for me, no damage, no alignment, much quicker.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

DO the drivers side first. Once you pound it out of the hub with a hammer, just pull on it a little... it should just pop out. If not I would try the screw driver (becareful to not to damage the differential side oil seal though). Once the drivers is out take out the 3 bolts on the support bracket for the drivers side (since it is longer). Pound it out of the hub just like the drivers side and then get a really long screw driver and stick it into the differential on the drivers side and pound out the passenger axle (this method will save you some time and is approved by the FSM).

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

OK I wont... And niether will anybody else. You are the only person I know of to do it this way. You wont need an alignment. You wont need to buy a new lower ball joint. You wont need to buy a ball joint removal tool. ANd you wont need to waste a bunch of time struggling with a hub that is still attached to an unmovable strut (at least if you leave it attached at the lower ball joint and remove the knuckle from the strut you have some manuverability).

bill927

I wish I could be young again. I remember the days when I knew everything and was happy to say anything. Now I work smart (separate the joint) and speak less.

bill927

What are the alignment specs for my car?

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Camber, in degrees.
-1.00 Minimum
-0.25 Nominal
+0.50 Maximum
+0.75 Maximum left and right difference

Caster, in degrees
+2.00 Minimum
+2.75 Nominal
+3.50 Maximum
+0.75 Maximum left and right difference

Kingpin inclination, in degrees
+13.50 Minimum
+14.25 Nominal
+15.00 Maximum

Total toe-in distance, in millimeters
+1 Minimum
+2 Nominal
+3 Maximum

Total toe-in angle (left plus right), in degrees
+0.09 Minimum
+0.18 Nominal
+0.27 Maximum


REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Camber, in degrees
-1.75 Minimum
-1.00 Nominal
-0.25 Maximum

Total toe-in distance, in millimeters
-3 Minimum
+1 Nominal
+5 Maximum

Total toe-in angle (left plus right), in degrees
-0.27 Minimum
+0.09 Nominal
+0.43 Maximum

The rear wheels aren't adjustable, and the front toe is the only spec specified for adjustment from the factory. Camber is the most important spec on our cars alignment, and if it's not perfectly even on both sides you tend to get a slight pull. If the mechanic is a cool person, they will adjust your lower strut bolt to adjust the front camber.

Compilation from Daniel B. Martin, njmaxseltd, and Eric L.



Well, I've always had cars that have an oblong bolt in the strut that will change the alignment if it isn't installed at the exact position it needs to be in. This guy seems to agree. Someone else said the manual says it can't be adjusted. Several people say you'll need an alignment if you change the shafts. Anyone have any conclusive info?

4DRSpeed

iTrader: (22)

I am interested in a 5spd Maxima my buddy has. Both CV joints are bad. The driver side the boot is torn apart, the right side has a hole in it. The mechanic at pep boys said to replace the whole cv joint and that a boot is not a good idea.

It sounded to me they wanted some $$$ because it would have cost $450 w/labor to replace both. And I really want this max so just getting the boots gonna be ok?

Feed

I don't wish to make this an inflamatory statement or reply. I'm just stating this as an opinion.

But the quoted post is not entirely true. Please do not take this post as flaming in anyway.

1. Removing and re-installing the strut member bolts from the spindle/knuckle MAY not require a realignment, but in many cases, it does require a realignment. This is due to the fact that not every maxima on the road has OEM shock absorbers, OEM strut bolts, or for that matter, OEM spindle/knuckles; wear and tear do effect the amount of play that can be experienced when removing, than reinstalling bolts, which in turn can effect your camber/caster orientation, to a degree that may require an alignment.

2. Removing the ball joint sometimes is, and sometimes isn't, easier than removing the strut bolts. This is due to the fact that with a car on jackstands on the ground, the strut bolts seem more accessable than the ball joint. However, the ball joint is VERY easy to remove properly, however (this case in point), it is RARELY removed properly. The aforementioned "pitch-fork" type tool is the least-desirable method. The commonly used method of removing a ball joint is to strike the inset (tapered, or, knuckle-side) surface with direct blows with a flat hammer. The ball joint pops out. (insert "I-would-love-to-see-that-work-comments" here). Simply put, removing the strut bolts is not always easier than removing the lower ball joint, and with the majority of cases, leaving the strut member intact with the knuckle/spindle is preferred; many applications use eccentric-type strut bolts to adjust camber, so removing them usually requires an alignment.

3. Nissan may not sell lower ball joints, but MOOG and ACDelco do, as well as a host of other part suppliers; in which case, a new lower control arm would not be needed. The lower ball joint is replacable, but IMO, definately not DIY.

4. Yes, completely removing the knuckle gives you an ample amount of space to work with your axle. But the method BILL927 mentioned will give you JUST AS MUCH ROOM to work, with the added benefit of getting the entire assembly out of the way. By disconnecting the lower ball joint from the spindle/knuckle assembly, and rotating it rear-ward, than securing it, using the tie-rod as a pivot, you have just as much room to work, while having a secure knuckle assembly. As an added plus, you aren't just leaving the entire spindle/knuckle assembly to just flop on the lower ball joint, which would be the case if you removed the strut bolts instead.

By the way - to difinitively answer the original question posted, YES and NO. If no ATF leaks out when you remove the axle, than no ATF needs to be added. This happens about 50% of the time. If ATF leaks out, it should not be much at all. After install, check your ATF level and refill as necesary.

No, it is not always necesary to drain the ATF from the system before removing an axle. This is most likely added as an instruction in order to prevent unwanted/uncontrolled drainage of ATF, as might happen if the axle were to be removed. You see, if ATF suddenly start draining once you remove the axle, are you gonna shove the axle back in the transmission to control the leak?!? It's almost like saying, drain the sink before attempting to work on the pipes underneath.

The method mentioned by BILL927, disconnecting the lower balljoint from the knuckle assembly while leaving the strut bolts in-tact, if done properly, will leave the alignment-related components of your suspension system intact, and will not require an alignment. This is actually my personal preferred method.

I hope all of this information was helpful. I hope this post is NOT instructional in anyway - IMHO, if you are looking for information on how to properly replace an AXLE on an internet forum, no matter how indepth it may be, it will not be adequate if something goes wrong, if something breaks, if something doesn't work the way the instructions say it should...YOU ARE SCREWED, and the internet will not help you turn that wrench.

I suggest, to save yourself some potential aggrivation, to spend a little cash a let a professional do the work for you. I know it's fun to wrench on your car, but it's MUCH more fun to drive it.

AxisKill

shiet now that's a post if ive seen one (its rare now-a-days on the forum to have someone "correct" someone or "answer a question" without flaming)

... Props Feed..

now being that you're local.. how about replacing my Cv boot

blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

help guys i cant get the outer part off. i dont have a vice or a slide hammer. trying to get this done tonight. any ideas? i can get the axle to pop out of the transmission pretty easily but that outer joint does not want to come off. please help quick!

blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

well im not sure what happend but my inner joint somehow got messed up. I had the shaft popped out of the transmission but decided to pop it back it to get a grip on one end to see if i could pop out the outer joint. well after tugging for awhile i noticed that the inner boot was all deformed and could now rotate freely as if something broke off inside. so now when i pull on the shaft its only pulling on the inner boot instead of the transmission seal and I dont see how I'm gonna be able to remove the cv shaft now. One thing for certain is i'll definitely have to replace the entire axle now. Do the axles you get at auto stores come with both boots installed so its just pop it in and go? Anyways ive just stopped trying after about 4 hours. Still dont know how im gonna get the shaft out of the transmission. Hopefully you guys can help me out.

blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

well i think i know what happened after looking at some pics of inner joints online. basically it popped off instead of the outer one. My only guess is to try to pop it back in and then pop the axle out. wont be ez tho.

blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

oh i tried prying out the inner cv from the transmission using a flathead screwdriver but that didnt work. the tugging did work but wont anymrore with the inner joint loose. anyone know a better way to pry the inner out of the transmission? ive tried for awhile and im pretty sure ive badly damaged the seal.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I agree. Loosen those bolts, push/pull and see what effects it has on camber. It's significant - although not adjustable persay, good alignment shops will fiddle with it if it's not in range.

I did do this as a DIY job, and felt there was nothing difficult - I used a cheap shop press to remove the old ball joints (not so elegant) and used one of those c-clamp balljoint tools to install the new ones. I suspect the clamp tool is much better for removal as well - can you say more why this isn't a good DIY thing?

blazingchimp

iTrader: (12)

got the axle off after borrowing a prybar. still need to get the inner joint back in and find a way to remove the outer joint. maybe i should just get a new axle from raxles.com

4DRSpeed

iTrader: (22)

How much are raxles.com axles?

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Old guys always say that.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Assuming every thing is stock an alignment is NOT needed. Once you enter to relm of 'there has been extensive modifications' then all predictabilty is lost. And, simply removing the bolts will NOT effect the camber/caster orientation... unless of course you know something that the authors of the FSM and engineers that built and designed the car at nissan do not.

Simply pounding out the joint with hammer is NOT the commonly used method... at least on this planet. The most commonly used method is to use an actual ball joint removal tool. It looks like a mini pitman arm puller and it screws the joint out slowly. The second is using the pickle fork (not 'pitch fork'). This may or may not damage the joint. What do you need to reomve the srtut bolts? A 17mm and a 19mm wrench and thats it. No special tools need to be purchased and there is no risk of damaging anything.

So what does somebody do when they follow your method of removing the ball joint and then the thing gets damaged?? They would have to buy a third party ball joint and then some how get their hands on a ball joint press so the new one could be put in... and dont tell me you would 'just pound in the new one with a hammer'...

To completely remove the knuckle you have to remove the tie rod ball joint, lower ball joint, and yes... the strut bolts. Simply removing the lower ball joint does nothing at all... perhaps you could get the knuckle to move a little bit, but with it still attached to the strut and so you cant bring the knuckle/hub OUT so you have a enough room to pound the axle out of the hub and then bring it out from behind so it can be pulled out from under the car. Maybe it can be done your way... but it sure as hell aint more easy. And there is no adverse effects caused by letting the hub/ knuckle rest on the lower ball joint as a pivot.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

I paid $179 per axle shipped for 97 MT LSD ABS. There is no core, but Marty will charge $80 to your card if you dont return the old ones with in a decent period of time. The quality of these axles are top notch... beats anything autozone or those types of stores offer.

bill927

I wish I lived closer to the I30 guy. All of my degrees and all of my years and he's infinitely more intelligent than I am. My way was pretty easy, hub moved quite easily. Oh well, wish I knew everything again. I forgot it as I got older.

Oh, I went to National Alignment today. A local company with an excellent reputation. I was told that the bolts that hold the strut on do adjust camber. The camber is set from the facory but once they are removed they require eccentric bolts. Wait, must not be true, I30 guy says so. The book they looked it up in was obviously wrong. I'll be sure to tell her I30 guy says they're wrong. They will be pleased to have some insight on what they've been doing wrong for the last 30 years.

Too bad I've wasted all this time, money, and energy on college. I need to get into his line of work, he obviously knows a lot and must make tons more money than I do as well. I'm sure the attorney/consultant I work for will be sad when I tell him I'm leaving to change lines of work.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Its good that you admitting this... you are slowly moving in the right direction.

Wow... National Alignment must have found a way to adjust it some how, when the nissan engineers couldnt. Did they also offer to adjust your timing and clean out your carburetor?

According the FSM the camber, caster, and kingpin inclination are preset at the factory and CANNNOT BE ADJUSTED. If the camber, caster, or kingpin inclintation are not within specification, the strut assembly has been damaged (i.e. BENT) and must be replaced. It has nothing to with the lower strut mounting bolts. No how no way what so ever.

See the difference between me and you is that I quote the actual FSM and trust them while you actually believe the 17 year old automotive vocational students that work part time at the local alignment shop.

Wow youre that educated yet you trust National Alignment and also seem to like to do a CV job in an obtuse manner...Maybe you should change lines of work, but not into the automotive industry, as you dont seem to mechanically inclined... I hear ditch digging is pretty hard to mess up. Try that.

bill927

I can assure you, my IQ is substantially higher than yours, as is my aptitude. When you learn to use proper grammar you may win some respect. Until then, keep giving misguided advice.

The direction I have decided to take is one that ends an arguement that you refuse to lose, no matter how much info you get. Do things your way and I will do them mine. I like people like you. You make good burgers at the local fast food places.

bill927

Oh, and about ditch digging. Funny you mention that. The guys that were digging ditches, waterlines for municipalities to be exact, used to depend on me to read plans and quote materials, but that was when I was in college. My job is far more complex now. I offer services to every occupation, from ditch diggers to doctors. I graduated from ditch digging when I was working at 14. I was learning to build houses then. Now I pay people to build them and I finance them to buyers.

Hope your knowledge pays off so well. I'm making anywhere from 7-10% on my money AND if the buyer defaults, well, I get the house back with 100% equity. You're right, I should do something more profitable with my time than work on my car.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Hows that possible? You dont know me, or my educational background. If your posts are any indication of your apptitude and IQ, then you must be one dumb son of a b!tch. Oh and your right my grammar is so sh!tty isnt it. And I will continue to give misguided advise from the FSM. The StephenMax moderator has an FSM, and he said the camber is not adjustable either...its so simple to understand. Why cant you just admit youre wrong and take it like a man instead of whining like a little b!tch and talking about your IQ when no one gives a ****?

And I like people like you... Youre a wanna be pseudo intellectual damb @ss who is great at making a fool of himself.

bill927

You're right, I make a fortune off of people like you. I should be nice. Now, go back to school.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Go ahead and make your fortune... just remember that the people that make your burgers also spit in them and use toppings off the floor. All the while people like you are none the wiser.

bill927

As I thought, a man of experience. They only do that when they learn the hard way and resent someone for tying to educate them.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

You havent even heard half of it, but its not my experience. It maily just occurs when people are d!cks or @ssholes, and thus deserve it.