Anyone interested in purchasing harness to convert 9004 to 9007 Headlights?
Anyone interested in purchasing harness to convert 9004 to 9007 Headlights?
I'm building a custom harness to convert my headlights from 9004 to 9007, and I was wondering if anyone would be interested in me producing a harness for them. This would be all new wiring, and would require some work on your part, but very minimal. The harness would be able to support upto a 110 Watt bulb, though I would only advise a 100 watt bulb in order to maintain some margin of safety.
There would be two options available:
1) Just the harness: $55
2) Harness with 80/100 Watt Bulbs: $70
An addon to both, I would enclose the relays and most of the wiring for $10. This would clean up the install considerably, and make it easier for you to mount.
All prices include shipping, and if there is at least a few people interested in this, I'll make up a few sets, though they would be made to order. Delivery time would be about 10 days after ordering, depending on certain conditions (mostly my availability, as this takes a good chunk of time to wire up). The huge advantage of this kit over the other harnesses on the market, as all the current that powers the headlights will be run on 12 Gauge wire, while the rest of them use your old wiring for part of it. In my setup, the only thing your old wiring would do is trip the relays. This would be a complete bolt on kit, and you would not need to purchase anything else. The only tools required would be tools to loosen and tighten your battery terminals, and a pair of pliers to crimp a few wires. Full installation instructions would be included.
I will have a working model installed on my car within a week, and will post pictures and comparisons at that time.
EDIT: Set includes new sockets, though it appears some filing may still be required. I will update this when I am able to test it out in a few days.
There would be two options available:
1) Just the harness: $55
2) Harness with 80/100 Watt Bulbs: $70
An addon to both, I would enclose the relays and most of the wiring for $10. This would clean up the install considerably, and make it easier for you to mount.
All prices include shipping, and if there is at least a few people interested in this, I'll make up a few sets, though they would be made to order. Delivery time would be about 10 days after ordering, depending on certain conditions (mostly my availability, as this takes a good chunk of time to wire up). The huge advantage of this kit over the other harnesses on the market, as all the current that powers the headlights will be run on 12 Gauge wire, while the rest of them use your old wiring for part of it. In my setup, the only thing your old wiring would do is trip the relays. This would be a complete bolt on kit, and you would not need to purchase anything else. The only tools required would be tools to loosen and tighten your battery terminals, and a pair of pliers to crimp a few wires. Full installation instructions would be included.
I will have a working model installed on my car within a week, and will post pictures and comparisons at that time.
EDIT: Set includes new sockets, though it appears some filing may still be required. I will update this when I am able to test it out in a few days.
Originally Posted by Chickan
actually mine includes new sockets, so you dont have to file it down.
Originally Posted by suicidalspd99
I thought that the headlamp set inside the headlight housing. I thought regardless you have to file a nub off. I'm getting more interested now.
Originally Posted by suicidalspd99
I thought that the headlamp set inside the headlight housing. I thought regardless you have to file a nub off. I'm getting more interested now.
I may be wrong, but I was under the impression that the problem was with how the bulb was inserted into the socket itself. I'll know for sure when I get my bulbs in the mail.
Originally Posted by njmodi
Thats what I was getting at... but I trust Chickan understood that - so he's found way to get around that problem... or maybe not.
interested in part
I'd be interested in the HD 9007 sockets and the bulbs. I already have a harness with relay's that is running regular wattage silverstars the only kind available. Running 100 watt bulbs burned out the sockets. I have never liked the lighting on the Maxima's. I'd consider tye 9007 to be the last lighting I'll try.
I'd be in if this could be made to be plug and play. Or is it? I don't think I quite understand...
All I know is, I'd love to convert to 9007 but I'm not the greatest with wiring or anything like that and I'd like to be able to just swap something directly that won't require any cutting/splicing. I hate splicing
All I know is, I'd love to convert to 9007 but I'm not the greatest with wiring or anything like that and I'd like to be able to just swap something directly that won't require any cutting/splicing. I hate splicing
Originally Posted by Tatanko
I'd be in if this could be made to be plug and play. Or is it? I don't think I quite understand...
All I know is, I'd love to convert to 9007 but I'm not the greatest with wiring or anything like that and I'd like to be able to just swap something directly that won't require any cutting/splicing. I hate splicing
All I know is, I'd love to convert to 9007 but I'm not the greatest with wiring or anything like that and I'd like to be able to just swap something directly that won't require any cutting/splicing. I hate splicing

This kit would be perfect for you! You would need to cut your stock wiring, but all parts are included. Make a few simple connections, mount the relays (really easy w/ the box), and you are ready to rock!
Originally Posted by wahoohead
I'd be interested in the HD 9007 sockets and the bulbs. I already have a harness with relay's that is running regular wattage silverstars the only kind available. Running 100 watt bulbs burned out the sockets. I have never liked the lighting on the Maxima's. I'd consider tye 9007 to be the last lighting I'll try.
Once I get my kit working properly, I'll get you a price on just the bulbs and th socket, probably around $25 shipped.
Originally Posted by Chickan
This kit would be perfect for you! You would need to cut your stock wiring, but all parts are included. Make a few simple connections, mount the relays (really easy w/ the box), and you are ready to rock!

I can do a few splices real quick by using wire taps, but that's gonna get old real fast if I have to do half a dozen of them...especially in a limited space like a fuse box or something...
Turtle, I will surely do that, and pictures should be available within a week.
Tatanko: Heres the list of what you would need to do on your end, and anything that is possible to be done on end will be done:
1) Attach supplied to cable to both battery terminals, using supplied orings
2) Cut low beam positive line from one headlight, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector
3) Cut high beam positive line from one headlight, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector
4) Cut ground line, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector.
5) Mount relays (or box if desired)
That is really about it. More detailed instructions would accompany the kit.
Tatanko: Heres the list of what you would need to do on your end, and anything that is possible to be done on end will be done:
1) Attach supplied to cable to both battery terminals, using supplied orings
2) Cut low beam positive line from one headlight, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector
3) Cut high beam positive line from one headlight, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector
4) Cut ground line, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector.
5) Mount relays (or box if desired)
That is really about it. More detailed instructions would accompany the kit.
Originally Posted by Chickan
Turtle, I will surely do that, and pictures should be available within a week.
Tatanko: Heres the list of what you would need to do on your end, and anything that is possible to be done on end will be done:
1) Attach supplied to cable to both battery terminals, using supplied orings
2) Cut low beam positive line from one headlight, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector
3) Cut high beam positive line from one headlight, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector
4) Cut ground line, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector.
5) Mount relays (or box if desired)
That is really about it. More detailed instructions would accompany the kit.
Tatanko: Heres the list of what you would need to do on your end, and anything that is possible to be done on end will be done:
1) Attach supplied to cable to both battery terminals, using supplied orings
2) Cut low beam positive line from one headlight, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector
3) Cut high beam positive line from one headlight, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector
4) Cut ground line, crimp to new cable via supplied butt connector.
5) Mount relays (or box if desired)
That is really about it. More detailed instructions would accompany the kit.
Originally Posted by Tatanko
Wow...that sounds pretty easy actually. Now in step 5 you say "or box if desired," does that mean we can get a box to mount somewhere in the engine bay instead of having to do more electrical work?
The box I'm refering to is an option I stated, where for $10 I'll enclose all the relays and fuses and such. This would just dramatically clean up the install, make it much easier on the eyes. There is a good spot I've found to mount it, and I'll make pictures available of the entire install process. And yes, it would be really easy for you to install, which is my goal in this process.
i have a better idea to tap in for power. a quick splice works wonder.

butt connectors would be far more desructive to the wires, and you need a crimp tool.
almost makes me want to sell these for $55

butt connectors would be far more desructive to the wires, and you need a crimp tool.
almost makes me want to sell these for $55
Originally Posted by JSutter
i have a better idea to tap in for power. a quick splice works wonder.

butt connectors would be far more desructive to the wires, and you need a crimp tool.
almost makes me want to sell these for $55

butt connectors would be far more desructive to the wires, and you need a crimp tool.
almost makes me want to sell these for $55
I've thought about making them with those connectors on them, and the final version probably will for most connections.
Originally Posted by dawalkster
group deal..
oh, and what headlights are included in the $70 package?
oh, and what headlights are included in the $70 package?
The headlights are generic/standard 80watt/100 watt 9007 bulbs, nothing too fancy. If you wanted something higher grade, you are welcome to just get the harness, and supply your own bulbs. Any 9007 bulb rated up to 110 watts would work with my setup.
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
You can buy these harnesses on ebay and just flip the low beam and high beam wire.
Originally Posted by wahoohead
I don't think the crimp wire taps are the way to go.
2 things, please correct me if i am wrong about this one, but aren't our lenses incompatible with the vertical beam pattern of 9007 bulbs? our lenses are specifically designed to work with a horizontal pattern and i believe the vertical beam would not refract properly and would create a nasty glare...
secondly... i found a solution to melting stock harnesses with 80/100 bulbs. Go to a wrecking yard and cut the stock harnesses off of an 88 or 89 maxima (or any older nissan for that matter). For some reason these dont melt, perhaps they were made with better plastic. I picked up a pair for $2 + $2 entrance fee to the yard. couple splices and i was all done 5 minutes later. havent melted on me in over a year...
hope this helps...
Devin
secondly... i found a solution to melting stock harnesses with 80/100 bulbs. Go to a wrecking yard and cut the stock harnesses off of an 88 or 89 maxima (or any older nissan for that matter). For some reason these dont melt, perhaps they were made with better plastic. I picked up a pair for $2 + $2 entrance fee to the yard. couple splices and i was all done 5 minutes later. havent melted on me in over a year...
hope this helps...
Devin
Originally Posted by DAVE Sz
There is no need for a 9004 to 9007 harness unless you're switching to higher wattage bulbs. If you're staying with the stock 65/45 bulbs NO HARNESS IS NEEDED.
Originally Posted by quasidynamic
2 things, please correct me if i am wrong about this one, but aren't our lenses incompatible with the vertical beam pattern of 9007 bulbs? our lenses are specifically designed to work with a horizontal pattern and i believe the vertical beam would not refract properly and would create a nasty glare...
secondly... i found a solution to melting stock harnesses with 80/100 bulbs. Go to a wrecking yard and cut the stock harnesses off of an 88 or 89 maxima (or any older nissan for that matter). For some reason these dont melt, perhaps they were made with better plastic. I picked up a pair for $2 + $2 entrance fee to the yard. couple splices and i was all done 5 minutes later. havent melted on me in over a year...
hope this helps...
Devin
secondly... i found a solution to melting stock harnesses with 80/100 bulbs. Go to a wrecking yard and cut the stock harnesses off of an 88 or 89 maxima (or any older nissan for that matter). For some reason these dont melt, perhaps they were made with better plastic. I picked up a pair for $2 + $2 entrance fee to the yard. couple splices and i was all done 5 minutes later. havent melted on me in over a year...
hope this helps...
Devin
Originally Posted by Chickan
if you want to use 16 year old wiring in you car, you are welcome to it, I wouldn't trust it personally. Sounds like a fire waiting to happen.
Actually, they are safer that our stock harnesses as well as store bought aftermarket harnesses; both melted on me. The old harnesses don't. It's like they say, they just dont make 'em like they used to...
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