i30ds

iTrader: (8)

On the 4th gen clutch line set up you have one line that goes from the master to a small junction box. Then from there two lines go off in seperate directions. One line just goes down to the soft rubber lines which connect to the slave. The other line goes down, curly cues around, then comes back up and hugs the strut tower area and end with a bleeder bolt on the end.

What would happen if I eliminated the bleeder line on the strut tower area?? I could use a bolt to plug up its hole on the small 3 three was junction box. This would leave me with just the line from the master to the junction box and then a line that goes down to the soft lines which in turn connect to the slave.

This would eliminate the my ability to bleed the system on the strut tower area, but there is still a bleeder on the slave, which I would not mind using. Would it affect pedal feel?? Any opinions??

Ladzio

iTrader: (8)

???

There is no second clutch line on 5 spd 4 th Gen???!!!!

Even if it would be, there goota be a good reason for it!

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Look again.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

you need both the bleeding screws because one does the slave while the other does the rest of the air that naturally flows up.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

But why cant I just bleed it at the slave? I mean the whole system is connected any way and just as long as I have a bleeder screw somewhere to get any air and dirty fluid out of the system...

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

It just won't work. When I put in my SS clutch line, and into a few other maxes, I could've never bled the clutch by just bleeding the slave. I could have the salve bled perfectly but as soon as I went to bleed the master, there were still bubbles there even though I bled it before the slave.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

well with 3rd gens we dont have that problem really (we dont have the second bleeder line that goes to the strut tower). However I wouldn't really recommend taking out that stuff. It gets to a point where its just more of a headache when you mess with stuff.

mad-max98

iTrader: (2)

i30ds i know exactly what you're talkin about because i had it and i was thinking there is no strong reason for that curly useless tube so i took it out and placed a bolt where it goes in the bleeder box and now my line works better and the clutch engages earlier than b4 4 some reason so yea take it out if you want

Batxel

iTrader: (1)

whats the purpose of getting rid of that part clutch line?

im sure the engineers at nissan didn't throw some additional clutch lines in there because they were bored

MaXiMa420SE

yah i wouldnt take it out but you probably could cut some and bend it if possible

AggressiveFront

They probbly put the extra tubing there so that there is more fluid to be moved before engaging. The more fliud there is, the more you have to move, the longer it will take. Not everything is set up for speed, some of it actually goes for comfort. It is family sedan.

I just got my Maxima, but I have to replace teh clutch, while I am under there I might check this out.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

See now this is what I am talikn about! Although the Dave Sz post is somewhat of a concern. How did it make the actual pedal feel... more mushy, more stiff, or the same?

The reason why I want to do this is because all the lines are out and if I can avoid snaking that curly bullsh!t in there I would be happy.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

SO you just have one solid line down to a couple of soft lines which in turn connect to the slave and you just bleed the system at the slave?

Tyrexx

iTrader: (23)

When Broaner did his 5-spd swap he did not use one of these lines, I also remember hearing it's purpose was to "soften" the clutch pedal "feel"

Wetballoon

Will the bleeder screw fit directly into the junction? If it does, you can ditch the line but still bleed the system that way.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Alright!! I think I am gonna go for it.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

It wont.....

afroken

my thoughts exactly. what would you gain by removing this line?

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

10char....

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

so did you try it?

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Yes I did. The clutch works and feels absolutely great. Because I did this along with the 5th gen clutch and the ss line it hard to judge exactly the what made the most improvement in feel, but it feels a lot more precise and smooth than my friends 96 (which has the extra bleeder line, 4th gen clutch, and rubber lines).

So far I have put about 200 miles on the vehicle and on the spot where I plugged the junction box with a bolt is still as dry as can be!!

Plus, the whole Dave Sz thing (bleeding at the slave alone wouldnt work) was wrong as well. I bled the system at the slave, then drove around for a bit and then bled it again with NO air at all... not even the really tiny bubbles.

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

The design exists on some of the 240SX's and once when I bled and my pedal wouldn't come back up, a friend of mine did this exactly. He bypassed the junction box and the only difference was actually a lighter pedal.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

If that line was rubber and your removed it or replaced it with a metal line then you might firm things up a bit. Same as replacing your rubber brake lines with braded metal lines.

But being that line is already made of metal it would make absolutely no differance in pedal feel by removing it. The metal line doesn't expand, the pressure in the hydraulic clutch system is no where near as high as your brakes and brake/clutch fluid doesn't compress. Removing that line will only make bleeding the system more difficult.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

I didnt replace the extra bleeder line, I reomved all togather. I plugged up the hole on the junction box with a bolt. So now the system goes master-hard line-junction box-hard line-ss line-slave. Bleeding the system is actually now a breeze compared to to bleed jobs on my friends 96. It takes less time and less fliud.