stock airbox + cai??? possible?
#41
Yeppeeeeeeeeee! Another science project. You should switch careers as you seem to be more passionate about this kind of stuff.
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
What you already have in mind seems pretty good to me. Maybe add a pop charger on there, if you have one available that is, to see how the flow compairs to the stock box. Better yet, any other after market setup you have laying around would be nice to add to the comparison.
#43
OSCAI webpage
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/821083
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/821083
#44
I combined DR-MAX and maxfive-o's ideas.
Removed snorkel and replaced with 3" pipe routed to foglight hole. The foglight hole on my 4th gen was already covered in home depot gutter screen, so no birds, squirrels or whatever are getting in there, and its above the splashguard, so it's not hanging under the car for potential of getting hit by curbs and such. There's a lot of bends in the system, two 90's and two 45's, but they are larger sweeping bends than the stock snorkel which has three 90's. In addition, the cross-sectional area of a 3" pipe is larger than the 2x3" area of the stock snorkel. There is a 4" adapter at the foglight hole to maximize the air grabbing effect.
Cut a 2" hole in fender side of airbox and ran 2" pipe to existing hole behind fusebox beside the battery (where wiring harness goes) and into the fender well.
Not worried about sucking up water either with the 3" pipe as the 2" pipe will bring in air if the 3" pipe is submerged.
Much quieter than by previous Budget CAI, smoother power delivery and good response. No more hot air from metal pipes for me.
Removed snorkel and replaced with 3" pipe routed to foglight hole. The foglight hole on my 4th gen was already covered in home depot gutter screen, so no birds, squirrels or whatever are getting in there, and its above the splashguard, so it's not hanging under the car for potential of getting hit by curbs and such. There's a lot of bends in the system, two 90's and two 45's, but they are larger sweeping bends than the stock snorkel which has three 90's. In addition, the cross-sectional area of a 3" pipe is larger than the 2x3" area of the stock snorkel. There is a 4" adapter at the foglight hole to maximize the air grabbing effect.
Cut a 2" hole in fender side of airbox and ran 2" pipe to existing hole behind fusebox beside the battery (where wiring harness goes) and into the fender well.
Not worried about sucking up water either with the 3" pipe as the 2" pipe will bring in air if the 3" pipe is submerged.
Much quieter than by previous Budget CAI, smoother power delivery and good response. No more hot air from metal pipes for me.
#45
Originally Posted by goldtooth
I tried this already. I put duct tape securely around the hole of the snorkel and the twisted the tube from the resonator and bit over. The sound it produced was the same as stock. Or at least I didnt notice anything....
I believe the more piping and that curve in the snorkel made it stay quite.
I believe the more piping and that curve in the snorkel made it stay quite.
I do realize that tube that branches off from the main snorkel would still be there, but it's better than it being connected to the box. Best case scenario would be to cut off that branch of tube and just patch up the hole somehow.
#46
Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte
ive seen where people use the expanding section on their cai
i feel as though my car actuall y slowed with tha cai addition
i feel as though my car actuall y slowed with tha cai addition
#47
Very nicely done!!! Not ghetto at all. You should call it Five-O CAI.
Originally Posted by maxfive-O
OSCAI webpage
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/821083
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/821083
#48
If you have a stock intake, keep it, there really isn't much use looking for an aftermarket because the stock one performs well. It is pretty well balanced. If you get a full cai you sacrifice highend, etc. I unfortunately sold my stock snorkel a few years ago, got a cone filter, I felt better throttle response, this set up downfall is the sucked in engine heat. I got a full cai into the fenderwell, immediate throttle reposnse was lost along with car starting smoothness. Currently I have the stock midpipe with the rest cai it performs well I got some of the smoothness and throttle response back. This set up TO ME was better than the full cai, the aftermarket midpipe is what kills you. This set up is decent but I don't think it is as good as stock.
#49
Originally Posted by gtmuggs
I feel the same way im considering going back stock with maybe a K&N drop in im wondering who has this setup and how did it feel
#50
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
After tinkering around with the OSCAI, I went back to stock with a K&N filter. Seems to perform just fine. The only change I might make would be to coat the exterior of the intake with liquid ceramic to insulate it from the heat.
#51
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
After tinkering around with the OSCAI, I went back to stock with a K&N filter. Seems to perform just fine. The only change I might make would be to coat the exterior of the intake with liquid ceramic to insulate it from the heat.
#52
I just put the stock airbox on. my car has NO LAG now. I can punch the throttle in any RPM and at any speed it responds like a champ even with my dirty *** panel filter i found.
i'm picking up a K&N tomorrow after work.
stock air box = teh new hotness.
EDIT: i just bought a K&N panel filter. the car feels great now. I noticed a difference when i put the stock midpipe back and now it feels even better w/ the old setup w/ the drop in filter. i can't believe i even bought a aftermarket intake. i feel bad for putting on the FC and making my car suffer for so long.
i'm picking up a K&N tomorrow after work.
stock air box = teh new hotness.
EDIT: i just bought a K&N panel filter. the car feels great now. I noticed a difference when i put the stock midpipe back and now it feels even better w/ the old setup w/ the drop in filter. i can't believe i even bought a aftermarket intake. i feel bad for putting on the FC and making my car suffer for so long.
#53
Originally Posted by Iron Scimitar
I just put the stock airbox on. my car has NO LAG now. I can punch the throttle in any RPM and at any speed it responds like a champ even with my dirty *** panel filter i found.
i'm picking up a K&N tomorrow after work.
stock air box = teh new hotness.
EDIT: i just bought a K&N panel filter. the car feels great now. I noticed a difference when i put the stock midpipe back and now it feels even better w/ the old setup w/ the drop in filter. i can't believe i even bought a aftermarket intake. i feel bad for putting on the FC and making my car suffer for so long.
i'm picking up a K&N tomorrow after work.
stock air box = teh new hotness.
EDIT: i just bought a K&N panel filter. the car feels great now. I noticed a difference when i put the stock midpipe back and now it feels even better w/ the old setup w/ the drop in filter. i can't believe i even bought a aftermarket intake. i feel bad for putting on the FC and making my car suffer for so long.
Funny but this is what i suspected to and soon ill be going back to stock with the K&N airfilter, before i took the stock off my throttle response was so crisp, i admit i do like that mean sound of the aftermarket but ill take performance over sound
#54
Originally Posted by gtmuggs
Funny but this is what i suspected to and soon ill be going back to stock with the K&N airfilter, before i took the stock off my throttle response was so crisp, i admit i do like that mean sound of the aftermarket but ill take performance over sound
I'll miss it too, but the exhaust makes up for it.
#55
Wow there's been a lot of really intelligent thought, as well as tangible efforts being put into the design of a better intake here.
...why?
I mean if you're just for daily driving performance and you don't care about the sound, then *psssst!* I got news for you! Nissan beat you to it. The intake has it's layout to bring in colder air for the safety of the engine and it's shape so that Joe Maxima Driver doesn't turn his max into a steam powered failed locomotive when he thinks a puddle doesn't look that deep. If you really feel so inclined throw in a K&N filter, maybe do what Dr Max did if you really have that much time til next paycheck, and call it a day. Start saving for better investments. If you turbo it or something the need for a larger filter surface area may arise, in which case don't just stick a filter on it, 6" from your exhaust manifold and other than that you should be good.
My 2c... but I'm really just trying to use up my posts so you don't have to listen to me if you don't want to, I ran out of money before I got to my engineering courses in college plus I'm not terribly worried about it.
...why?
I mean if you're just for daily driving performance and you don't care about the sound, then *psssst!* I got news for you! Nissan beat you to it. The intake has it's layout to bring in colder air for the safety of the engine and it's shape so that Joe Maxima Driver doesn't turn his max into a steam powered failed locomotive when he thinks a puddle doesn't look that deep. If you really feel so inclined throw in a K&N filter, maybe do what Dr Max did if you really have that much time til next paycheck, and call it a day. Start saving for better investments. If you turbo it or something the need for a larger filter surface area may arise, in which case don't just stick a filter on it, 6" from your exhaust manifold and other than that you should be good.
My 2c... but I'm really just trying to use up my posts so you don't have to listen to me if you don't want to, I ran out of money before I got to my engineering courses in college plus I'm not terribly worried about it.
#56
Originally Posted by gtmuggs
did you feel any differences with the stock setup and K&N drop in?
I've used K&N filters in all the cars I have bought: a 3rd Gen Max, a 4th Gen I30, and two 1995 Acura Integras, and found the addition of the K&N to be worth every penny.
#57
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
Yes, I did. Overall, my car was more responsive to changes in pedal pressure, quicker downshifts, and a little additional low-end torque as well.
I've used K&N filters in all the cars I have bought: a 3rd Gen Max, a 4th Gen I30, and two 1995 Acura Integras, and found the addition of the K&N to be worth every penny.
I've used K&N filters in all the cars I have bought: a 3rd Gen Max, a 4th Gen I30, and two 1995 Acura Integras, and found the addition of the K&N to be worth every penny.
this is my first time experience w/ a KN filter and i'm very satisfied.
#58
Well I was once a very avid preacher of just removing the stock intake snorkel, but no more. When I first did it, I didn't really notice any loss of power or roughness in the powerband, so I figured cool...I get the growl and no power loss.
Just went outside and put the stock snorkel back on, but left the air silencers off (2 of them). 95's have an extra one connected to the stock midpipe that I left off, and the one under the battery I left disconnected. Both holes were patched up with black duct tape to keep the air in and minimize them being an eyesore, since the black matches the tubing.
I didn't think I'd be too impressed, but once I took a test drive, the car feels smoother. I've had the stock midpipe/air box on the whole time, but even the snorkel helped now that it's back on. The car feels much smoother and much more willing to get up and go when I give it throttle (I'm auto, btw).
Personally I believe this setup to be superior, since I'm eliminating all the air silencers and giving the air the most direct path to the air box as possible (using stock equipment).
Just went outside and put the stock snorkel back on, but left the air silencers off (2 of them). 95's have an extra one connected to the stock midpipe that I left off, and the one under the battery I left disconnected. Both holes were patched up with black duct tape to keep the air in and minimize them being an eyesore, since the black matches the tubing.
I didn't think I'd be too impressed, but once I took a test drive, the car feels smoother. I've had the stock midpipe/air box on the whole time, but even the snorkel helped now that it's back on. The car feels much smoother and much more willing to get up and go when I give it throttle (I'm auto, btw).
Personally I believe this setup to be superior, since I'm eliminating all the air silencers and giving the air the most direct path to the air box as possible (using stock equipment).
#60
Originally Posted by MAXTIZZLE
I Know This Is Going To Annoy Some Of You. But, Why Cant I Start A New Thread? I Want To Post A Question About Where To Get Accurately Tinted Touch Up Paint.
#61
Originally Posted by Tatanko
Well I was once a very avid preacher of just removing the stock intake snorkel, but no more. When I first did it, I didn't really notice any loss of power or roughness in the powerband, so I figured cool...I get the growl and no power loss.
Just went outside and put the stock snorkel back on, but left the air silencers off (2 of them). 95's have an extra one connected to the stock midpipe that I left off, and the one under the battery I left disconnected. Both holes were patched up with black duct tape to keep the air in and minimize them being an eyesore, since the black matches the tubing.
I didn't think I'd be too impressed, but once I took a test drive, the car feels smoother. I've had the stock midpipe/air box on the whole time, but even the snorkel helped now that it's back on. The car feels much smoother and much more willing to get up and go when I give it throttle (I'm auto, btw).
Personally I believe this setup to be superior, since I'm eliminating all the air silencers and giving the air the most direct path to the air box as possible (using stock equipment).
Just went outside and put the stock snorkel back on, but left the air silencers off (2 of them). 95's have an extra one connected to the stock midpipe that I left off, and the one under the battery I left disconnected. Both holes were patched up with black duct tape to keep the air in and minimize them being an eyesore, since the black matches the tubing.
I didn't think I'd be too impressed, but once I took a test drive, the car feels smoother. I've had the stock midpipe/air box on the whole time, but even the snorkel helped now that it's back on. The car feels much smoother and much more willing to get up and go when I give it throttle (I'm auto, btw).
Personally I believe this setup to be superior, since I'm eliminating all the air silencers and giving the air the most direct path to the air box as possible (using stock equipment).
#63
Originally Posted by gtmuggs
Are you planning on making a how to for this mod because it sounds like something im interested in?
Originally Posted by 99Automagic
How to's for duct taping holes?
-1. If you're an earlier Maxima (I'm not sure what the cutoff is), you'll have an air silencer connected to your primary resonator (see first picture). You'll want to remove this. All you do is take off the bolt that it's attached to the snorkel with, and then undo the clamp on the hose connecting it to the stock midpipe (see second picture).
-2. To get rid of the second silencer (which is on all 4th gen. Maxima's), you twist and pull on the tube that goes from the snorkel to the box under the battery/tray (see third picture). It's potentially easier to get this tube off if you take out the snorkel first and then put the snorkel back, but it's your choice. Either way, you'll need to twist and pull a good bit on some of this stuff even if it seems like you're going to break it, you won't.
-3. Get some duct tape and criss-cross it over the 2 holes now left (the one on the resonator and the one on the snorkel itself). I used black duct tape so it would be less obvious, and it blends in pretty well. I also did several layers, including wrapping it around the circumference of each hole to ensure it was nice and tight and not going to come off/let water in (see fourth pic).
#64
with the stock air box and resonator im running 2 separate 2 1/8" hoses and (1) hose 1 1/2" in diameter. 1 of the large hoses goes to the stillen lip, the other behind the tranny near the axle/tie rod. the smaller tube is in the fender like a PR CAI. quiet, effective and as woked the best for me over all. I have a themometer in the box and only when the car is parked and idling for an extended period do the temps get high. once I start driving they go down very close to amb temps. when i had a pop charger the temps were always high, even on the highway.
i wanted to build an intake that was always pulling cold air with piping that was as big (in surface area) as a typical intake, of 3" in diameter. basically larger than the TB is capable of using. i also wanted the highest flow, so i use a K&N OEM sized filter. so far i am very pleased, but i do get a bit of sand in the box since the piping does start about 3-5" off the ground. i will install a screen to block sand particles.
i wanted to build an intake that was always pulling cold air with piping that was as big (in surface area) as a typical intake, of 3" in diameter. basically larger than the TB is capable of using. i also wanted the highest flow, so i use a K&N OEM sized filter. so far i am very pleased, but i do get a bit of sand in the box since the piping does start about 3-5" off the ground. i will install a screen to block sand particles.
#65
you know if u guys even want MORE POW POWER, stick a blower in there as these guys did
http://videos.streetfire.net/Player....AD23CA9564&p=0
http://videos.streetfire.net/Player....AD23CA9564&p=0
#66
When the weather gets a bit cooler and drier, I will be doing some extensive tests with stock box mods. i have a hot wire anemometer which measures air velocity and air temperature. My plan is to put the probe in front the MAF facing the air flow and take readings under various conditions and modifications.
The parameter of interest is air density which can be estimated from air velocity and temperature plus adjustments made for barometric pressure. In actuality, the MAF is a hot wire anemometer that produces changes in voltage corresponding to changes in air density.
The key to getting better performance from any intake is whether it does, in fact, increase the density (and thereby increasing the oxygen content) of the air coming into the throttle body.
There is an upper limit to how much air the MAF can handle, so that while allowing more, naturally aspirated air to enter is a good thing, you reach a point of diminishing returns rather quickly...especially if the incoming air produces any kind of turbulence or reverse vacuum.
Which leaves you with one of two options: get a more powerful air source like a turbo or a supercharger, or make the incoming air as cool as possible.
The parameter of interest is air density which can be estimated from air velocity and temperature plus adjustments made for barometric pressure. In actuality, the MAF is a hot wire anemometer that produces changes in voltage corresponding to changes in air density.
The key to getting better performance from any intake is whether it does, in fact, increase the density (and thereby increasing the oxygen content) of the air coming into the throttle body.
There is an upper limit to how much air the MAF can handle, so that while allowing more, naturally aspirated air to enter is a good thing, you reach a point of diminishing returns rather quickly...especially if the incoming air produces any kind of turbulence or reverse vacuum.
Which leaves you with one of two options: get a more powerful air source like a turbo or a supercharger, or make the incoming air as cool as possible.
#67
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
When the weather gets a bit cooler and drier, I will be doing some extensive tests with stock box mods. i have a hot wire anemometer which measures air velocity and air temperature. My plan is to put the probe in front the MAF facing the air flow and take readings under various conditions and modifications.
The parameter of interest is air density which can be estimated from air velocity and temperature plus adjustments made for barometric pressure. In actuality, the MAF is a hot wire anemometer that produces changes in voltage corresponding to changes in air density.
The key to getting better performance from any intake is whether it does, in fact, increase the density (and thereby increasing the oxygen content) of the air coming into the throttle body.
There is an upper limit to how much air the MAF can handle, so that while allowing more, naturally aspirated air to enter is a good thing, you reach a point of diminishing returns rather quickly...especially if the incoming air produces any kind of turbulence or reverse vacuum.
Which leaves you with one of two options: get a more powerful air source like a turbo or a supercharger, or make the incoming air as cool as possible.
The parameter of interest is air density which can be estimated from air velocity and temperature plus adjustments made for barometric pressure. In actuality, the MAF is a hot wire anemometer that produces changes in voltage corresponding to changes in air density.
The key to getting better performance from any intake is whether it does, in fact, increase the density (and thereby increasing the oxygen content) of the air coming into the throttle body.
There is an upper limit to how much air the MAF can handle, so that while allowing more, naturally aspirated air to enter is a good thing, you reach a point of diminishing returns rather quickly...especially if the incoming air produces any kind of turbulence or reverse vacuum.
Which leaves you with one of two options: get a more powerful air source like a turbo or a supercharger, or make the incoming air as cool as possible.
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