150k needs some serious help - Tune up?
08-04-2005, 07:37 PM
#1
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
150k needs some serious help - Tune up?
Ok here's the deal. I'm nowhere near the expertise of most of you in the school of maxima's, or cars for that matter. What i'm looking for is some advice on how to get my car to run better and longer than what it is/will if i keep driving it in it's current condition. Please help...my eyes are bleeding from sifting through these forums for help....Here's the lowdown:
Max in Question: 1999 Max SE
Current Mileage: 150k
Bought Car 3 years ago w/ 80k
Maintenance since purchase: reg. oil changes, air filter change, New brakes, rotors, calipers and tires....THATS IT!
Current Issues: Stalls at stops, lost major HP, poor gas mileage
ECU Codes from dealer - Knock Sensor, o2 Sensor and Cylinder Misfire
Recommendations from Dealer: Replace Spark Plugs, Replace KS, then o2 Sensor...see what happens.
So that's where i'm at...i have 2 years of payments left on this bad girl and i want her to live..i love my max!! What i don't have is $1000 to pay this mechanic to do the work he quoted me ($300 to replace my spark plugs..HAHAH..i laughed)
So, I forked out some dough to be a part of this elite group hoping to get some personal attention to my specific situation. If it's going to cost me a bundle I would like to take it in phases and do the most important, most probable things first...
1. Should i get a Tune Up first? If so, what needs to be included in said tune up?
2. What order should i replace these items in?
3. I already tested the KS w/ an OHM meter and it came out to spec. I think i might have a Cali spec 99max cuz the pictures i've seen on the instructions look WAY less obstructed than my KS. How do i know if i have a Cali spec?
4. Which o2 sensor should i replace?
That should be it for now. Im going to order some spark plugs and replace those in the interim...cheap and easy enough for me to do...that and i'm gunna get me a car wash and some new mats...maybe she just needs to shine a bit.....I look forward to any help..please let me know if you need any more info
ps. sorry so detailed...i figured you guys like the detail
Narrator
Max in Question: 1999 Max SE
Current Mileage: 150k
Bought Car 3 years ago w/ 80k
Maintenance since purchase: reg. oil changes, air filter change, New brakes, rotors, calipers and tires....THATS IT!
Current Issues: Stalls at stops, lost major HP, poor gas mileage
ECU Codes from dealer - Knock Sensor, o2 Sensor and Cylinder Misfire
Recommendations from Dealer: Replace Spark Plugs, Replace KS, then o2 Sensor...see what happens.
So that's where i'm at...i have 2 years of payments left on this bad girl and i want her to live..i love my max!! What i don't have is $1000 to pay this mechanic to do the work he quoted me ($300 to replace my spark plugs..HAHAH..i laughed)
So, I forked out some dough to be a part of this elite group hoping to get some personal attention to my specific situation. If it's going to cost me a bundle I would like to take it in phases and do the most important, most probable things first...
1. Should i get a Tune Up first? If so, what needs to be included in said tune up?
2. What order should i replace these items in?
3. I already tested the KS w/ an OHM meter and it came out to spec. I think i might have a Cali spec 99max cuz the pictures i've seen on the instructions look WAY less obstructed than my KS. How do i know if i have a Cali spec?
4. Which o2 sensor should i replace?
That should be it for now. Im going to order some spark plugs and replace those in the interim...cheap and easy enough for me to do...that and i'm gunna get me a car wash and some new mats...maybe she just needs to shine a bit.....I look forward to any help..please let me know if you need any more info
ps. sorry so detailed...i figured you guys like the detail
Narrator
08-04-2005, 07:51 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
It sounds to me that you are not willing to do a lot of this work yourself. You don't state where you live, but you should post in the regional forum that pertains to you and see if there is an experienced do-it-yourself member or two with tools who will give you a hand, even at a cost. You should not be getting all this done at a dealership, but alternatively at a reputable shop who is capable of doing the work at lower cost.
You should start by buying yourself a Haynes manual.
I suspect your car is in serious need of attention.
Start with the spark plugs and 02 sensors. Reset the ECU and then check for the knock sensor code. Your coil packs may also be in need of replacing and they should be tested given that 99 Maximas are notorious for requiring them to be replaced.
Apart from oil changes, you should have your radiator flushed and the coolant replaced as well as the system pressure tested. You don't state whether the vehicle is an automatic or a 5-speed. If an automatic, you likely should have the transmission flushed. If a 5-speed, you should have the transaxle and clutch fluids replaced. You probably should also replace your power steering fluid.
You likely require a fuel filter and a new PCV valve and should inspect and replace any hoses and belts that require replacement.
You should also have visual inspections and necessary repairs made to: the CV boots, suspension, exhaust, steering etc., ie. all the items in the 60K inspection.
Good luck and start saving your money!
Edit - just an afterthought, I see you have been a member since October 2002, yet only have 4 posts. How often have you visited this website? Have your read the stickies and FAQs? Don't expect members to hold your hand through this exercise as you may end up being cannon fodder!
You should start by buying yourself a Haynes manual.
I suspect your car is in serious need of attention.
Start with the spark plugs and 02 sensors. Reset the ECU and then check for the knock sensor code. Your coil packs may also be in need of replacing and they should be tested given that 99 Maximas are notorious for requiring them to be replaced.
Apart from oil changes, you should have your radiator flushed and the coolant replaced as well as the system pressure tested. You don't state whether the vehicle is an automatic or a 5-speed. If an automatic, you likely should have the transmission flushed. If a 5-speed, you should have the transaxle and clutch fluids replaced. You probably should also replace your power steering fluid.
You likely require a fuel filter and a new PCV valve and should inspect and replace any hoses and belts that require replacement.
You should also have visual inspections and necessary repairs made to: the CV boots, suspension, exhaust, steering etc., ie. all the items in the 60K inspection.
Good luck and start saving your money!
Edit - just an afterthought, I see you have been a member since October 2002, yet only have 4 posts. How often have you visited this website? Have your read the stickies and FAQs? Don't expect members to hold your hand through this exercise as you may end up being cannon fodder!
08-04-2005, 07:54 PM
#3
You are on the right track... just work slowly.
1. Make sure you get NGK V-power copper plugs. They are cheap and you are WAY overdue for plugs.
2. You have a 99 - they are notorious for flaky ignition coils. If the replacing the plugs don't fix your misfire problem, then its likely you need to replace the coils. This is something you can do yourself - in fact, you will have to remove all the coils to get to the plugs. You can order coils from any one of the discount nissan parts dealer, e.g. www.midwaypartsteam.com - ask for Dan Tech if you call them.
3. Do the simple things like cleaning the throttle body, cleaning the IACV (idle air control valve).
4. Replace the fuel filter.
Where are you located?
I could go on with a lot more - but let's start with the plugs, fuel filter, cleaning the TB and IACV. All this will cost you < $30 in parts assuming you do the work yourself.
You can tell Cali vs. Fed spec from the VIN. Check the stickies for how to decode the VIN.
1. Make sure you get NGK V-power copper plugs. They are cheap and you are WAY overdue for plugs.
2. You have a 99 - they are notorious for flaky ignition coils. If the replacing the plugs don't fix your misfire problem, then its likely you need to replace the coils. This is something you can do yourself - in fact, you will have to remove all the coils to get to the plugs. You can order coils from any one of the discount nissan parts dealer, e.g. www.midwaypartsteam.com - ask for Dan Tech if you call them.
3. Do the simple things like cleaning the throttle body, cleaning the IACV (idle air control valve).
4. Replace the fuel filter.
Where are you located?
I could go on with a lot more - but let's start with the plugs, fuel filter, cleaning the TB and IACV. All this will cost you < $30 in parts assuming you do the work yourself.
You can tell Cali vs. Fed spec from the VIN. Check the stickies for how to decode the VIN.
08-04-2005, 08:14 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
Originally Posted by njmodi
We should just split threads! 
The originator of this thread should get more involved in the website. Four posts in almost 3 years isn't going to do it!
08-04-2005, 08:18 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Bobo
You are much more knowledgeable than I am, so I will defer to you. I'm just rather **** and can spew off what I've learned on the .org and through my own vehicle experience over the years.
The originator of this thread should get more involved in the website. Four posts in almost 3 years isn't going to do it!
The originator of this thread should get more involved in the website. Four posts in almost 3 years isn't going to do it!
Thanks for the compliment! The hardest part of car maintenance is finding the right info. and putting in the effort to understand how things work... I'm surprised you don't take on some of the maintenance work yourself. It is actually very rewarding! It would be fun to meet you someday.
08-04-2005, 08:20 PM
#9
Defiently flush that radiator, and do the spark plugs, you might want platinums if u dont want to change them as often, also b4 u change your plugs, if i were you i would get a bottle (or 2) of chevron techron fuel additive and use that, it should clean stuff up a little
08-05-2005, 08:01 AM
#10
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
Wow, thanks for the great info so far. I'm definitely not afraid of doing work on my car myself, so i'm going to research these things one by one and tackle them as i have time. I got my NGK Platinums on order and will be taking care of those next week. Here's some more info for you.
1. It is indeed a 5 spd (is there any other way to fly?)
2. I live in Southern New Hampshire (Manchester area)- does anyone know of a good mechanic/do-it-yourselfer in the southern NH/Northern MA area that could help me do a tune up for a decent price?
I'm still checkin on the CALI spec..i'll post that info later tonight.
What o2 sensors need replacing if i'm getting an o2 ecu code? or are there diff codes for each o2?
Where can i get a good deal on the whole set of o2 sensors since they probably all need replacing at this point.
Thanks again for the help.
Oh..and to each his own, i respect and value your expertise in the area of auto care..I have taken the time to carefully scour the forums for similar situations such as myself and rather than try to piece together a logical path to maxima euphoria, i've decided to consult the experts directly. I greatly appreciate your help, and do not expect any "hand holding" though any projects. I simply would just like to know what one would do in my situation. I will perform the actual maintenance on my vehicle and if i cannot, i will seek out someone who can. After all, i did refuse the repairs at my local mechanic in an effort to learn more about my car and car maintenance, can i get a little credit?
Im a computer/network technician, i know how ignorant and lazy people can get when stuff goes wrong. A little Googling goes a long way. Look forward to your replies..i'll let you know how the battle goes.
1. It is indeed a 5 spd (is there any other way to fly?)
2. I live in Southern New Hampshire (Manchester area)- does anyone know of a good mechanic/do-it-yourselfer in the southern NH/Northern MA area that could help me do a tune up for a decent price?
I'm still checkin on the CALI spec..i'll post that info later tonight.
What o2 sensors need replacing if i'm getting an o2 ecu code? or are there diff codes for each o2?
Where can i get a good deal on the whole set of o2 sensors since they probably all need replacing at this point.
Thanks again for the help.
Oh..and to each his own, i respect and value your expertise in the area of auto care..I have taken the time to carefully scour the forums for similar situations such as myself and rather than try to piece together a logical path to maxima euphoria, i've decided to consult the experts directly. I greatly appreciate your help, and do not expect any "hand holding" though any projects. I simply would just like to know what one would do in my situation. I will perform the actual maintenance on my vehicle and if i cannot, i will seek out someone who can. After all, i did refuse the repairs at my local mechanic in an effort to learn more about my car and car maintenance, can i get a little credit?
Im a computer/network technician, i know how ignorant and lazy people can get when stuff goes wrong. A little Googling goes a long way. Look forward to your replies..i'll let you know how the battle goes.
08-05-2005, 08:06 AM
#11
Originally Posted by Narrator
1. It is indeed a 5 spd (is there any other way to fly?)
Originally Posted by Narrator
2. I live in Southern New Hampshire (Manchester area)- does anyone know of a good mechanic/do-it-yourselfer in the southern NH/Northern MA area that could help me do a tune up for a decent price?
Originally Posted by Narrator
I'm still checkin on the CALI spec..i'll post that info later tonight.
Originally Posted by Narrator
What o2 sensors need replacing if i'm getting an o2 ecu code? or are there diff codes for each o2?
Originally Posted by Narrator
Where can i get a good deal on the whole set of o2 sensors since they probably all need replacing at this point.
Originally Posted by Narrator
Oh..and to each his own, i respect and value your expertise in the area of auto care..I have taken the time to carefully scour the forums for similar situations such as myself and rather than try to piece together a logical path to maxima euphoria, i've decided to consult the experts directly. I greatly appreciate your help, and do not expect any "hand holding" though any projects. I simply would just like to know what one would do in my situation. I will perform the actual maintenance on my vehicle and if i cannot, i will seek out someone who can. After all, i did refuse the repairs at my local mechanic in an effort to learn more about my car and car maintenance, can i get a little credit?
Im a computer/network technician, i know how ignorant and lazy people can get when stuff goes wrong. A little Googling goes a long way. Look forward to your replies..i'll let you know how the battle goes.
Im a computer/network technician, i know how ignorant and lazy people can get when stuff goes wrong. A little Googling goes a long way. Look forward to your replies..i'll let you know how the battle goes.
and keep reading the forums - there is a lot of valuable information, experience and help available here.Cheers.
08-05-2005, 03:14 PM
#12
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
It's Cali spec. Why me!?? so are any of these tips changed due to my car being Cali spec emissions? What really does that mean besides that it makes it near impossible to replace the KS by myself? (which i dont think needs replacing)
Also, i checked the ECU Codes via the ECU screw thing and watching the CEL for blink codes and only got 0304 (Knock Sensor). I read through every KS thread and people talking of Ghost codes and the like. This, and the fact that i tested my KS w/ an ohm meter and it checked out, leads me to beleive that it's a bad o2 sensor(s) and that my best bet would be to replace those, spark plugs and give her a nice little tune up and see where i'm at then. Whattaya think?
The dealer gave me KS, o2, and cylinder misfire. I don't have the exact codes anymore though.
EDIT: OMG Cali spec means i have 4! o2 sensors...for the love of god, how did my effing car get to NH! The Dealer told me it was the owners car and he only drove it on the HGWY to and from Boston. Why i oughta! I'm gunna call the mechanic and find out what that code was. Not gunna drop $300 on o2 sensors just for giggles.
Also, i checked the ECU Codes via the ECU screw thing and watching the CEL for blink codes and only got 0304 (Knock Sensor). I read through every KS thread and people talking of Ghost codes and the like. This, and the fact that i tested my KS w/ an ohm meter and it checked out, leads me to beleive that it's a bad o2 sensor(s) and that my best bet would be to replace those, spark plugs and give her a nice little tune up and see where i'm at then. Whattaya think?
The dealer gave me KS, o2, and cylinder misfire. I don't have the exact codes anymore though.
EDIT: OMG Cali spec means i have 4! o2 sensors...for the love of god, how did my effing car get to NH! The Dealer told me it was the owners car and he only drove it on the HGWY to and from Boston. Why i oughta! I'm gunna call the mechanic and find out what that code was. Not gunna drop $300 on o2 sensors just for giggles.
08-17-2005, 07:33 PM
#13
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
UPDATE!
I Got my NGK Platinums, K&N Cone Filter, Actron OBDII Code Scan Tool, Haynes Manual, PCV Valve, Oil Filter, Oil and a new Fog light bulb today
Step 1: Read Codes from ECU
P0161 (1002) - Downstream O2 Sensor Heater or Circuit Fault
P0300 (0701) - Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0325 (0304) - Knock Sensor or Circuit Fault
Ok, sweet..these are the exact codes i got from the mechanic, so i'm going to just do the stuff i know i can do w/o effing things up too bad and see where that gets me...
Step 2: Get to the light stuff
1. Replaced fog light (hey gotta start w/ the easy stuff right?
2. Change Oil and Filter (OK, movin up in the world)
3. Replace PCV Valve (Now this was a Bi7Ch because i have a FSTB and my car is Cali Spec)
PROBLEM 1: New Purolator PCV Valve was longer than the one i removed (which was completely clogged and DEFINITELY needed to be replaced). The new one SEEMS to be ok, but everywhere i read explicitely says to MAKE SURE the PCV's are the exact same. I obviously didnt know what size the original one was until i took it out, so should i take the old one to a store and get the right one?
4.Tighten throttle line - the bolt was WAY loose so i tightened it to about 700RPM - This of course is impossible to gauge because the idle of my car is extremely erradic, which is why i'm even in this mess to begin with (stalling at stops) - I was getting sick of all these "know-it-all" mechanic friends of mine telling me just to turn the idle up if it stalls....pfft..dummies :|
5. Replace Cone Filter - Old K&N was pretty wasted. This was about the easiest thing i did all day, and that Air guzzling sound is just oh-so-good.
At this point i was done for the day. I needed to do a little more research about spark plugs and get myself a tool kit from Sears.
Result: No change. A little disappointed. I knew I wasn't going to erase all the codes and suddenly ride off ntot the sunset, but I was hoping to atleast not stall at the first stop sign. None such luck...
Coming Up Next:
1. Replace Sparks
2. Test O2 Sensors and order if necessary
3. Clean TB and IACV
Questions:
1. Should I Change out the PCV?
2. What Size Extension do i need for replacing Spark Plugs (i can't find the size requirement anywhere and i'm buying a tool kit and I would like to buy one that has the right ext.
3. I read somewhere (and can't remember where) that when i replace my sparks, i should clean the coils with some solution...does anyone know what that might be? Is this necessary?
4. Which O2 Sensor Do i need to replace on my Cali Spec? (I just emailed O2sensors.com with the same question as i can't find anything on the .org. My car is Cali spec and therefore has 2 rear o2 sensors....
5. Should I attempt to replace the Fuel Filter?
6. What other beginner/intermediate checks/repairs/replacements can i do...this is kinda fun..heh.
Ok that's it for now. I figured i'd keep you updated because it seems my situation is unique and maybe can help newbies in the future...all too often someone asks a question, people respond with all kinds of help..and the dude never comes back to let us know if it worked or not....
Wish me luck and thanks again for taking the time to letting me pick your brains..
peace.
I Got my NGK Platinums, K&N Cone Filter, Actron OBDII Code Scan Tool, Haynes Manual, PCV Valve, Oil Filter, Oil and a new Fog light bulb today
Step 1: Read Codes from ECU
P0161 (1002) - Downstream O2 Sensor Heater or Circuit Fault
P0300 (0701) - Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0325 (0304) - Knock Sensor or Circuit Fault
Ok, sweet..these are the exact codes i got from the mechanic, so i'm going to just do the stuff i know i can do w/o effing things up too bad and see where that gets me...
Step 2: Get to the light stuff
1. Replaced fog light (hey gotta start w/ the easy stuff right?
2. Change Oil and Filter (OK, movin up in the world)
3. Replace PCV Valve (Now this was a Bi7Ch because i have a FSTB and my car is Cali Spec)
PROBLEM 1: New Purolator PCV Valve was longer than the one i removed (which was completely clogged and DEFINITELY needed to be replaced). The new one SEEMS to be ok, but everywhere i read explicitely says to MAKE SURE the PCV's are the exact same. I obviously didnt know what size the original one was until i took it out, so should i take the old one to a store and get the right one?
4.Tighten throttle line - the bolt was WAY loose so i tightened it to about 700RPM - This of course is impossible to gauge because the idle of my car is extremely erradic, which is why i'm even in this mess to begin with (stalling at stops) - I was getting sick of all these "know-it-all" mechanic friends of mine telling me just to turn the idle up if it stalls....pfft..dummies :|
5. Replace Cone Filter - Old K&N was pretty wasted. This was about the easiest thing i did all day, and that Air guzzling sound is just oh-so-good.
At this point i was done for the day. I needed to do a little more research about spark plugs and get myself a tool kit from Sears.
Result: No change. A little disappointed. I knew I wasn't going to erase all the codes and suddenly ride off ntot the sunset, but I was hoping to atleast not stall at the first stop sign. None such luck...
Coming Up Next:
1. Replace Sparks
2. Test O2 Sensors and order if necessary
3. Clean TB and IACV
Questions:
1. Should I Change out the PCV?
2. What Size Extension do i need for replacing Spark Plugs (i can't find the size requirement anywhere and i'm buying a tool kit and I would like to buy one that has the right ext.
3. I read somewhere (and can't remember where) that when i replace my sparks, i should clean the coils with some solution...does anyone know what that might be? Is this necessary?
4. Which O2 Sensor Do i need to replace on my Cali Spec? (I just emailed O2sensors.com with the same question as i can't find anything on the .org. My car is Cali spec and therefore has 2 rear o2 sensors....
5. Should I attempt to replace the Fuel Filter?
6. What other beginner/intermediate checks/repairs/replacements can i do...this is kinda fun..heh.
Ok that's it for now. I figured i'd keep you updated because it seems my situation is unique and maybe can help newbies in the future...all too often someone asks a question, people respond with all kinds of help..and the dude never comes back to let us know if it worked or not....
Wish me luck and thanks again for taking the time to letting me pick your brains..
peace.
08-17-2005, 07:42 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
Unplug the PCV hose and put your finger over the PCV valve hose when the engine is running. If there is suction, your PCV valve is good to go. The fuel filter should be replaced every 30K. Also do the easy test for the EGR valve, which I believe entails pushing up on it from underneath. If it moves up, its good to go.
You also might benefit from an AutoRX application to clean out any sludge and varnish in the engine and recondition the seals. See www.auto-rx.com
Remember to change all fluids: radiator, transaxle, clutch, power steering. Brake fluid may be ok given the brakes have been done, but the question is how long ago.
You also might benefit from an AutoRX application to clean out any sludge and varnish in the engine and recondition the seals. See www.auto-rx.com
Remember to change all fluids: radiator, transaxle, clutch, power steering. Brake fluid may be ok given the brakes have been done, but the question is how long ago.
08-17-2005, 08:47 PM
#15
as for the tool kits. Any craftmen set 60pc + should have a spark plug socket and aleast a 4 in extesion along with a racket.
I recommend you get a medium set of tools 100+ pcs if you plan on doing more little things. It sounds like you need to get a lot done to your car. Plus none seem too hard to do. A lot of simple stuff. Just gotta put time and like $50 into.
Try the AutoRx/ Seafoam/ Chevron Tevron thing in the gas tank. Clean up injectors and vavles. Does a whole lot of little things. Plus there is a fun factor in it. You can smoke up the whole block.
You best bet is to meet up someone from .org and ask for some assistance and learn from him. Maybe offer him $50 plus beer to teach. I mean if you pay your mechanic to do it. yea you get it done. but learn nothing.
I recommend you get a medium set of tools 100+ pcs if you plan on doing more little things. It sounds like you need to get a lot done to your car. Plus none seem too hard to do. A lot of simple stuff. Just gotta put time and like $50 into.
Try the AutoRx/ Seafoam/ Chevron Tevron thing in the gas tank. Clean up injectors and vavles. Does a whole lot of little things. Plus there is a fun factor in it. You can smoke up the whole block.
You best bet is to meet up someone from .org and ask for some assistance and learn from him. Maybe offer him $50 plus beer to teach. I mean if you pay your mechanic to do it. yea you get it done. but learn nothing.
08-18-2005, 05:08 AM
#16
Originally Posted by Narrator
4.Tighten throttle line - the bolt was WAY loose so i tightened it to about 700RPM - This of course is impossible to gauge because the idle of my car is extremely erradic, which is why i'm even in this mess to begin with (stalling at stops) .
08-18-2005, 06:04 AM
#17
Originally Posted by Narrator
Result: No change. A little disappointed. I knew I wasn't going to erase all the codes and suddenly ride off ntot the sunset, but I was hoping to atleast not stall at the first stop sign. None such luck...
You should attempt to do your fuel filter, but know this before hand, it will be a PITA since your car has not seen much maintanence for a while.
So next up: spark plugs and fuel filter.
To be completely honest, I don't think you have coil pack failure. I can't imagine a 99 owner living with the problems associated with coil failure for 150k miles, since many experience problems before 100k. It's been at least 70k miles since the plugs were replaced, and I wouldn't be surprized if they were in such bad shape that they were causing a misfire.
08-27-2005, 12:52 PM
#18
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
Update #3
Ok, I had some time to work on my car today so here's what i did.
1. Replaced Spark plugs w/ NGK Platinums (it had platinums in there that didn't look TOO bad but had atleast 80k on them since that's how many miles i've put on the car since i bought it)
2. Replaced Fuel Filter - OK, you weren't kidding, what a MAJOR PITA!! I ended up having to cut the inlet hose from the bottom to get the old one off, and man did that thing look NASTY - putting the new one on took 3 minutes.
3. Checked PCV valve, it was a TAD bigger than the one that was in there but i replaced it anyways (i already replaced it not too long ago but was unsure if it was the correct one) - i didnt test the suction on the hose while i had it off cuz i forgot, but i think it's ok..
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals - put vaseline on them
5. put in some techron cleaner in the gas tank and filled her up with some super duper gas
I was going to clean the Throttle Body and look into what i have to do for the IACV but the fuel filter took alot out of me and i was hungry..heh.
RESULTS: I let it run for 5 minutes and the idle was still really choppy and the car stalled on the first start. I cleared the codes and the CEL went off. I took it for a test drive and I could definitely notice a much better response and pull in the car all the way through the RPM range. However, the car stalled without fail at every stop sign. I'd rev it up a little, let it out of gear and ease the brake to a stop and the tach would drop quickly to Zero and the car would stall with little to no hesitation. I would start the car again and the Idle would barely stay around 5-600 and the car would be shaking until i hit the gas and it would be perfectly fine......until the next stop sign.
Next up:
1. Clean the Throttle Body
2. Clean the IACV
3. Replace o2 Sensor (on order)
I couldnt find in the stickies what is the best solution to use for cleaning the TB and IACV. Any Suggestions?
Any other suggestions are more than welcome. If After cleaning these two things and replacing the rear o2 Sensor, the car still stalls, I will be pretty much out of options. At that point I think i'll try to get some assistance and do some hose replacements or something...no idea. I'm thinking about just making it my life's mission to remove all the stop signs in the world, then my troubles would be over.
Again, thanks for reading and offering your opinions and tips, If anything, i feel like I'm makin money workin on my car by not paying some tool hundreds of dollars to do it..I just wish it would work!
PS - I'll let you know when the CEL comes back on and which codes, if any have come/gone.
Ok, I had some time to work on my car today so here's what i did.
1. Replaced Spark plugs w/ NGK Platinums (it had platinums in there that didn't look TOO bad but had atleast 80k on them since that's how many miles i've put on the car since i bought it)
2. Replaced Fuel Filter - OK, you weren't kidding, what a MAJOR PITA!! I ended up having to cut the inlet hose from the bottom to get the old one off, and man did that thing look NASTY - putting the new one on took 3 minutes.
3. Checked PCV valve, it was a TAD bigger than the one that was in there but i replaced it anyways (i already replaced it not too long ago but was unsure if it was the correct one) - i didnt test the suction on the hose while i had it off cuz i forgot, but i think it's ok..
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals - put vaseline on them
5. put in some techron cleaner in the gas tank and filled her up with some super duper gas
I was going to clean the Throttle Body and look into what i have to do for the IACV but the fuel filter took alot out of me and i was hungry..heh.
RESULTS: I let it run for 5 minutes and the idle was still really choppy and the car stalled on the first start. I cleared the codes and the CEL went off. I took it for a test drive and I could definitely notice a much better response and pull in the car all the way through the RPM range. However, the car stalled without fail at every stop sign. I'd rev it up a little, let it out of gear and ease the brake to a stop and the tach would drop quickly to Zero and the car would stall with little to no hesitation. I would start the car again and the Idle would barely stay around 5-600 and the car would be shaking until i hit the gas and it would be perfectly fine......until the next stop sign.
Next up:
1. Clean the Throttle Body
2. Clean the IACV
3. Replace o2 Sensor (on order)
I couldnt find in the stickies what is the best solution to use for cleaning the TB and IACV. Any Suggestions?
Any other suggestions are more than welcome. If After cleaning these two things and replacing the rear o2 Sensor, the car still stalls, I will be pretty much out of options. At that point I think i'll try to get some assistance and do some hose replacements or something...no idea. I'm thinking about just making it my life's mission to remove all the stop signs in the world, then my troubles would be over.
Again, thanks for reading and offering your opinions and tips, If anything, i feel like I'm makin money workin on my car by not paying some tool hundreds of dollars to do it..I just wish it would work!
PS - I'll let you know when the CEL comes back on and which codes, if any have come/gone.
08-27-2005, 02:43 PM
#19
Clean the TB and IACV using this:http://www.shipstore.com/ss/html/CRC/CRC05078.html
Available at PepBoys. 3 bucks or so per can. It is safe for the teflon coating inside the throttle body.
Sounds like your IACV is really gummed up... cleaning it out thoroughly should help with your stalling problems.
Available at PepBoys. 3 bucks or so per can. It is safe for the teflon coating inside the throttle body.
Sounds like your IACV is really gummed up... cleaning it out thoroughly should help with your stalling problems.
08-28-2005, 01:10 PM
#20
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
Ok awesome, thank you. I'm gunna get on this because i've just about had enough of this garbage..heh
Also, all 3 ECU Codes came back after about 5 miles of driving. Not too psyched about that. I would have hoped to atleast get rid of the Multiple Cylinder Misfire. Could a crudded up IACV and Throttle Body and/or a bad o2 sensor cause a misfire?
Also, all 3 ECU Codes came back after about 5 miles of driving. Not too psyched about that. I would have hoped to atleast get rid of the Multiple Cylinder Misfire. Could a crudded up IACV and Throttle Body and/or a bad o2 sensor cause a misfire?
08-28-2005, 02:15 PM
#21
1. You need to replace that O2 sensor
2. Leave the knock sensor code alone for now
3. The multiple cylinder misfire is most like from bad ignition coils (especially since you've already done the plugs). It could also be one or more fuel injectors, but coils are more likely (given you have a 99).
4. The stalling may also be from the bad coils.
2. Leave the knock sensor code alone for now
3. The multiple cylinder misfire is most like from bad ignition coils (especially since you've already done the plugs). It could also be one or more fuel injectors, but coils are more likely (given you have a 99).
4. The stalling may also be from the bad coils.
08-29-2005, 08:50 AM
#22
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 4
ok, here's the deal...
sort of the same situation as Narrator, but I need additional help
1999 Maxima GXE 5 speed 87k miles, had for 3 years, this is my dream car,
plan to drive until...well, I won't press my luck, but I hope its a long time
New clutch in April, Oh the power!! I lived w/ that for way too long!
New starter -May
new front struts-May
new air filter-May
Consistent oil changes
consistent 91 octane
getting Cel codes, KS, O2's, Maf, not consistent though
August events...-jerking on acceleration between 1500 and 3000 rpm's
slightly rough idle
Changed Ks, Maf,
Changed spark plugs, (platinums)
changed fuel filter
changed fuel pump
cleaned the throttle body,
Cleared the codes.
No Codes!
BUT!!! Now the car is not just jerking, it's bucking like a bronco! CEL
flashing, now constant. When I start her, she acts like she's almost out of
gas.
After all that work, I finally took it to a shop where a friend works, he got
a #3 cylinder misfire, he said there was a bad connection and it fixed the
rough idle. Today they will do a fuel pressure check
Could this be a fuel pressure prob, vacuum leak?
I have not done the IACV or the PCV, but from what I've read in all the
forums, I cannot imagine such bad performance from just those.
Well, I'm waitin' (Okie talk) on the shop to test drive and call back on the verdict, I'm skeptical they'll find something..
Any other suggestions? (not looking for a hand-holding either)
sort of the same situation as Narrator, but I need additional help
1999 Maxima GXE 5 speed 87k miles, had for 3 years, this is my dream car,
plan to drive until...well, I won't press my luck, but I hope its a long time
New clutch in April, Oh the power!! I lived w/ that for way too long!
New starter -May
new front struts-May
new air filter-May
Consistent oil changes
consistent 91 octane
getting Cel codes, KS, O2's, Maf, not consistent though
August events...-jerking on acceleration between 1500 and 3000 rpm's
slightly rough idle
Changed Ks, Maf,
Changed spark plugs, (platinums)
changed fuel filter
changed fuel pump
cleaned the throttle body,
Cleared the codes.
No Codes!
BUT!!! Now the car is not just jerking, it's bucking like a bronco! CEL
flashing, now constant. When I start her, she acts like she's almost out of
gas.
After all that work, I finally took it to a shop where a friend works, he got
a #3 cylinder misfire, he said there was a bad connection and it fixed the
rough idle. Today they will do a fuel pressure check
Could this be a fuel pressure prob, vacuum leak?
I have not done the IACV or the PCV, but from what I've read in all the
forums, I cannot imagine such bad performance from just those.
Well, I'm waitin' (Okie talk) on the shop to test drive and call back on the verdict, I'm skeptical they'll find something..
Any other suggestions? (not looking for a hand-holding either)
08-29-2005, 08:52 AM
#23
I would suggest that you replace all 6 ignition coils with Mitsubishi coils from www.midwaypartsteam.com. 99's are famous for iginition coil failure and your symptoms are in line with failed coils. (It could also be one or more failed injectors).
To make sure it is a coil, disconnect a coil one by one while the car is idling - if there is no change in idle, that means that the coil is not firing (or the fuel injector is bad).
To make sure it is a coil, disconnect a coil one by one while the car is idling - if there is no change in idle, that means that the coil is not firing (or the fuel injector is bad).
Originally Posted by amysdot
ok, here's the deal...
sort of the same situation as Narrator, but I need additional help
1999 Maxima GXE 5 speed 87k miles, had for 3 years, this is my dream car,
plan to drive until...well, I won't press my luck, but I hope its a long time
New clutch in April, Oh the power!! I lived w/ that for way too long!
New starter -May
new front struts-May
new air filter-May
Consistent oil changes
consistent 91 octane
getting Cel codes, KS, O2's, Maf, not consistent though
August events...-jerking on acceleration between 1500 and 3000 rpm's
slightly rough idle
Changed Ks, Maf,
Changed spark plugs, (platinums)
changed fuel filter
changed fuel pump
cleaned the throttle body,
Cleared the codes.
No Codes!
BUT!!! Now the car is not just jerking, it's bucking like a bronco! CEL
flashing, now constant. When I start her, she acts like she's almost out of
gas.
After all that work, I finally took it to a shop where a friend works, he got
a #3 cylinder misfire, he said there was a bad connection and it fixed the
rough idle. Today they will do a fuel pressure check
Could this be a fuel pressure prob, vacuum leak?
I have not done the IACV or the PCV, but from what I've read in all the
forums, I cannot imagine such bad performance from just those.
Well, I'm waitin' (Okie talk) on the shop to test drive and call back on the verdict, I'm skeptical they'll find something..
Any other suggestions? (not looking for a hand-holding either)
sort of the same situation as Narrator, but I need additional help
1999 Maxima GXE 5 speed 87k miles, had for 3 years, this is my dream car,
plan to drive until...well, I won't press my luck, but I hope its a long time
New clutch in April, Oh the power!! I lived w/ that for way too long!
New starter -May
new front struts-May
new air filter-May
Consistent oil changes
consistent 91 octane
getting Cel codes, KS, O2's, Maf, not consistent though
August events...-jerking on acceleration between 1500 and 3000 rpm's
slightly rough idle
Changed Ks, Maf,
Changed spark plugs, (platinums)
changed fuel filter
changed fuel pump
cleaned the throttle body,
Cleared the codes.
No Codes!
BUT!!! Now the car is not just jerking, it's bucking like a bronco! CEL
flashing, now constant. When I start her, she acts like she's almost out of
gas.
After all that work, I finally took it to a shop where a friend works, he got
a #3 cylinder misfire, he said there was a bad connection and it fixed the
rough idle. Today they will do a fuel pressure check
Could this be a fuel pressure prob, vacuum leak?
I have not done the IACV or the PCV, but from what I've read in all the
forums, I cannot imagine such bad performance from just those.
Well, I'm waitin' (Okie talk) on the shop to test drive and call back on the verdict, I'm skeptical they'll find something..
Any other suggestions? (not looking for a hand-holding either)
08-29-2005, 08:57 AM
#24
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by njmodi
I would suggest that you replace all 6 ignition coils with Mitsubishi coils from www.midwaypartsteam.com. 99's are famous for iginition coil failure and your symptoms are in line with failed coils. (It could also be one or more failed injectors).
To make sure it is a coil, disconnect a coil one by one while the car is idling - if there is no change in idle, that means that the coil is not firing (or the fuel injector is bad).
To make sure it is a coil, disconnect a coil one by one while the car is idling - if there is no change in idle, that means that the coil is not firing (or the fuel injector is bad).
08-30-2005, 08:13 AM
#25
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
Someone is selling their Coil Packs on Ebay for $175. They came off a 97 Max that had 80k on it. Should i just bite the bullet and replace all 6? I'm not too keen on the ways of using an OHM meter and i've already replaced the plugs and am still getting the misfire code.
PS - don't snake them from me! heh.
PS - don't snake them from me! heh.
08-30-2005, 08:19 AM
#26
If you are going to keep the car, just spent the 250 for brand new ones... it's not worth saving 80 bucks on parts that are prone to eventual failure... you can pick up used coils for much cheaper in the 4th Gen classifieds forum...
08-30-2005, 08:52 AM
#27
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
I just tried searching that entire forum for used/new coil packs. Where are these new coil packs for $250 you speak of? I really want to get this car up to spec again so that i can trade it in for a new Max. At this point it's more of a pride thing though, I will figure this out!
09-09-2005, 11:23 AM
#30
Originally Posted by amysdot
njmodi, you are a friggin' genious! Bought new coil packs, car runs great! Just wanted to say thanks
Glad you got your car back to normal. After doing all the other work you mentioned, I'm sure it drives beautifully and will continue to do so as long as you treat it right.
09-09-2005, 12:22 PM
#31
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
Amysdot, did you get your coilpacks from car-part.com? If so, which place did you get them from, there are like 25 for coil packs :|
Glad your car runs sweet, I hope this is my problem, after this i'm clueless. I'm going to try the fabled "clean the coil pack" option in the meantime....
go max...GO!
Glad your car runs sweet, I hope this is my problem, after this i'm clueless. I'm going to try the fabled "clean the coil pack" option in the meantime....
go max...GO!
11-07-2005, 06:16 PM
#33
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
Well..after much research and trying to find a decent price on some coil packs, i finally picked some used ones off of ebay for a fair price. Got them in and installed them all...turned the key with my eyes closed....
nothing...not even a glimmer of hope that i just fixed SOMETHING. Coil packs are/were FINE.
So i'm bringing the car in to the shop, i've given it my best and i just can't afford to drive it around like this anymore, stalling in the middle of traffic is not good.
Funny thing is, when i took out the old ones, i realized that they were mitsubishi's. I thought that all 99's came w/ hanshins stock? Maybe the coil packs were already replaced by the previous owner? I got it at 83k..
I put in the old ones cuz they were apparantly fine and am selling the new ones i got..they only have 50k on them. I'll sell them for what i paid. $125 for the set.
Any last ideas or advice i should give the mechanic so he doesn't screw me?
nothing...not even a glimmer of hope that i just fixed SOMETHING. Coil packs are/were FINE.
So i'm bringing the car in to the shop, i've given it my best and i just can't afford to drive it around like this anymore, stalling in the middle of traffic is not good.
Funny thing is, when i took out the old ones, i realized that they were mitsubishi's. I thought that all 99's came w/ hanshins stock? Maybe the coil packs were already replaced by the previous owner? I got it at 83k..
I put in the old ones cuz they were apparantly fine and am selling the new ones i got..they only have 50k on them. I'll sell them for what i paid. $125 for the set.
Any last ideas or advice i should give the mechanic so he doesn't screw me?
11-07-2005, 06:35 PM
#34
Ok... let's recap here.
You started off with these 3 codes:
P0161 (1002) - Downstream O2 Sensor Heater or Circuit Fault
P0300 (0701) - Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0325 (0304) - Knock Sensor or Circuit Fault
Are these codes still present?
Did you ever replace the o2 sensor?
So replacing the coils did not help the driveability at all?
The one last piece that can cause the severe problems you are experiencing is a bad MAF (mass-airflow sensor). These run about 400 bucks new, so you definitely want to go the used route. You can pick up one for about 50 bucks on Ebay or the 4th Gen classifieds. Don't sell those coils just yet.
Bear with us - we'll try get you sorted out yet.
You started off with these 3 codes:
P0161 (1002) - Downstream O2 Sensor Heater or Circuit Fault
P0300 (0701) - Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0325 (0304) - Knock Sensor or Circuit Fault
Are these codes still present?
Did you ever replace the o2 sensor?
So replacing the coils did not help the driveability at all?
The one last piece that can cause the severe problems you are experiencing is a bad MAF (mass-airflow sensor). These run about 400 bucks new, so you definitely want to go the used route. You can pick up one for about 50 bucks on Ebay or the 4th Gen classifieds. Don't sell those coils just yet.
Bear with us - we'll try get you sorted out yet.
11-07-2005, 06:54 PM
#35
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
Yeah, codes are still present. Driveability improved 0%. Before i replaced the coils i did the "pull test". Meaning, as the car was running, i pulled each coil pack out one by one to see if it affected the engine any to try to determine which one(s) were bad. The engine bucks so bad that it was very hard to tell, so i couldn't really make anything of that.
I haven't reset the ECU Codes yet but i can't imagine that's going to help the driveability at all. Best case is that instead of multiple cylinder misfire it would narrow it down to one, but im not hopeful of that.
never replaced the o2. and haven't replaced the KS either, i figure these are just coming up because of the misfore (ks picking up the erratic engine noise and o2 picking up ...well i dunno but it's to my understanding this couldnt possibly be causing this madness)
Why could the MAF be causing this? When YES INTERCEPTION PATRIOTS!! ..sorry..When you open the hood and listen to the engine and watch it, it's bucking almost like it's idling WAY too low....i would think it was the throttle set too low but it only levels out after about 2kRPM.
I haven't reset the ECU Codes yet but i can't imagine that's going to help the driveability at all. Best case is that instead of multiple cylinder misfire it would narrow it down to one, but im not hopeful of that.
never replaced the o2. and haven't replaced the KS either, i figure these are just coming up because of the misfore (ks picking up the erratic engine noise and o2 picking up ...well i dunno but it's to my understanding this couldnt possibly be causing this madness)
Why could the MAF be causing this? When YES INTERCEPTION PATRIOTS!! ..sorry..When you open the hood and listen to the engine and watch it, it's bucking almost like it's idling WAY too low....i would think it was the throttle set too low but it only levels out after about 2kRPM.
11-07-2005, 07:15 PM
#37
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
Yeah i replaced the plugs w/ NGK plats. Is there a way i can test fuel injectors? I've already thrown about 4 of those chevron techrons through in the past few months so....i believe i've done all i can do to try to clear up the fuel system..
The car hasn't had any maintenance since i owned it (other than oil changes) aside from the work listed in this post....It's due for inspection so i plan on gettin all the fluids drained and refilled and the radiator flushed...
Anything simple that i've maybe overlooked? I just hate to think it's going to cost me $200/injector to fix :|
The car hasn't had any maintenance since i owned it (other than oil changes) aside from the work listed in this post....It's due for inspection so i plan on gettin all the fluids drained and refilled and the radiator flushed...
Anything simple that i've maybe overlooked? I just hate to think it's going to cost me $200/injector to fix :|
11-07-2005, 07:19 PM
#38
You can put one end of a long screwdriver on the injector and the other end near your ear. You should be able to hear a distinct click each time it fires...
If you end up with a bad rear injector, you're looking at a lot of $$ - since they'll have to pull the plenum to get to them... perhaps you want to recruit the help of a local .orger who'd be willing to do the work for much less. You can order the parts yourself at a discounted price too... either way injectors are not cheap.
For sh*ts and giggles, pull the codes again... see if the ECU has detected a specific misfiring cylinder... that might be all you need.
If you end up with a bad rear injector, you're looking at a lot of $$ - since they'll have to pull the plenum to get to them... perhaps you want to recruit the help of a local .orger who'd be willing to do the work for much less. You can order the parts yourself at a discounted price too... either way injectors are not cheap.
For sh*ts and giggles, pull the codes again... see if the ECU has detected a specific misfiring cylinder... that might be all you need.
11-10-2005, 10:14 AM
#39
Luvs his Max
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 117
Riddle Solved
Well, i brought it in and just got the call from the mechanic...what was the problem you ask? Sparks: NOPE, Coil Packs: Nope, Fuel Injectors: Nope, MAF Sensor: Nope, Throttle Body: Nope......all the other **** i did: Nope.....
Intake Gasket was blown
He hooked up a smoke machine and major smoke was coming out of the intake hose...LOVELY.
Gasket: $15
Labor: $65/hr for 3 hours
driving around a car that isn't a stalling death trap - FRIGGIN SWEET
So there it is. I had him mount up my exhaust pipe and replace my tail light mount ($75 for the mount?! are you kidding?) and swap out my road tires for Winter tires and throw a sticker on the puppy...
Not another dollar goes into that thing unless it's for gas. Maybe i'll give her a nice shining this weekend...
*sigh*, maybe that's what that "hissing" sound was...sonofa...well...
So, like i said...anyone wanna buy some perfectly good coil packs? lol $125 gets all 6. And they're mitsubishi!
can you believe this crap? He cleared the codes and they're gone now, i'm curious to see which ones come back..i know the misfire one will be gone, but who wants to take bets on the KS and the o2 sensor?
Also, he said my Cat Converter (or something) was starting to "fall apart". Is this cheap? Something i should replace?
Intake Gasket was blown
He hooked up a smoke machine and major smoke was coming out of the intake hose...LOVELY.
Gasket: $15
Labor: $65/hr for 3 hours
driving around a car that isn't a stalling death trap - FRIGGIN SWEET
So there it is. I had him mount up my exhaust pipe and replace my tail light mount ($75 for the mount?! are you kidding?) and swap out my road tires for Winter tires and throw a sticker on the puppy...
Not another dollar goes into that thing unless it's for gas. Maybe i'll give her a nice shining this weekend...
*sigh*, maybe that's what that "hissing" sound was...sonofa...well...
So, like i said...anyone wanna buy some perfectly good coil packs? lol $125 gets all 6. And they're mitsubishi!
can you believe this crap? He cleared the codes and they're gone now, i'm curious to see which ones come back..i know the misfire one will be gone, but who wants to take bets on the KS and the o2 sensor?
Also, he said my Cat Converter (or something) was starting to "fall apart". Is this cheap? Something i should replace?
11-10-2005, 10:22 AM
#40
Originally Posted by Narrator
Well, i brought it in and just got the call from the mechanic...what was the problem you ask? Sparks: NOPE, Coil Packs: Nope, Fuel Injectors: Nope, MAF Sensor: Nope, Throttle Body: Nope......all the other **** i did: Nope.....
Intake Gasket was blown
He hooked up a smoke machine and major smoke was coming out of the intake hose...LOVELY.
Gasket: $15
Labor: $65/hr for 3 hours
driving around a car that isn't a stalling death trap - FRIGGIN SWEET
So there it is. I had him mount up my exhaust pipe and replace my tail light mount ($75 for the mount?! are you kidding?) and swap out my road tires for Winter tires and throw a sticker on the puppy...
Not another dollar goes into that thing unless it's for gas. Maybe i'll give her a nice shining this weekend...
*sigh*, maybe that's what that "hissing" sound was...sonofa...well...
So, like i said...anyone wanna buy some perfectly good coil packs? lol $125 gets all 6. And they're mitsubishi!
can you believe this crap? He cleared the codes and they're gone now, i'm curious to see which ones come back..i know the misfire one will be gone, but who wants to take bets on the KS and the o2 sensor?
Also, he said my Cat Converter (or something) was starting to "fall apart". Is this cheap? Something i should replace?
Intake Gasket was blown
He hooked up a smoke machine and major smoke was coming out of the intake hose...LOVELY.
Gasket: $15
Labor: $65/hr for 3 hours
driving around a car that isn't a stalling death trap - FRIGGIN SWEET
So there it is. I had him mount up my exhaust pipe and replace my tail light mount ($75 for the mount?! are you kidding?) and swap out my road tires for Winter tires and throw a sticker on the puppy...
Not another dollar goes into that thing unless it's for gas. Maybe i'll give her a nice shining this weekend...
*sigh*, maybe that's what that "hissing" sound was...sonofa...well...
So, like i said...anyone wanna buy some perfectly good coil packs? lol $125 gets all 6. And they're mitsubishi!
can you believe this crap? He cleared the codes and they're gone now, i'm curious to see which ones come back..i know the misfire one will be gone, but who wants to take bets on the KS and the o2 sensor?
Also, he said my Cat Converter (or something) was starting to "fall apart". Is this cheap? Something i should replace?