I own a 240sx automatic and found this: http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/sh...th_an_auto.htm. Basically its involves unplugging a resistor so the automatic tranny shifts faster and harder. It worked fine on my 240sx, but will it work on my '99 maxima without any ill effects?

 

It runs transmission line pressure at full pressure. I dont think its good to run at for a long time. Some have wired up a switch to use at full throttle.

 

Yes this is called the drop resistor mod (check stickies) Many people have said that this mod kills your tranny.
Many people have put it on a switch. Its located behind the airbox on the strut

 

Find Jime on the site, he has a website that shows you how to do it too. He's been using this mod for along time and I don't think he has had any tranny problems related to the DR mod. And he has some fast @$$ automatics.

 

had thhis mod for a couple months w/ no problem (wired WOT switch under the throttle cable)

 

The tranny shifts at full line pressure when your at WOT.
The mod is useless unless you want to kill your tranny quicker during every day driving.

 

just don't floor it unless ur racin someone

 

not really effective if you dont have too many mods.

 

so on a max which ones is it? I searched the stickies and I can't find it.

 

#1 The thing in front of the strut tower.

 

That makes a big difference, even with my stock max.
I'll definately put a switch on that, because it up & downshifts pretty rough and the torque steer is pretty bad.

 

Hmmm... I always wondered what that little thingy was...
Mine actually has a crack near the end of it... under the bottom, it looks like one big peice of chalk like they use on a blackboard. Mine has a crack in it...

What do you think are the effects of have a crack in it... I'm going to try un-plugging it tommorow, just to experiment...

 

would you need a transmission cooler while using this mod?

 

Yes. You must do two things if you choose to mess with the drop resistor.

1.) Install a tranny cooler
2.) Hook the DR up to a switch and only use it when at WOT.

Failure to do either of these things will be like kicking your trans in the crotch while singing It's a Small World...not fun for all invovled.

 

how much are tranny coolers? how much of a hassle is a tranny cooler all together.

 

is this similar to how the auto shifts when you first start it and its on "cold". because i know its bad to floor it when your engine isnt warmed up, and i normally dont, but it shifts very nicely then.

 

$40 and 45 minutes to install. Your transmission will shift hard enough that you will chirp 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. For a NA max, it doesn't make the car faster. When you're running a 100 shot or boosted, it'll make a difference though.

 

very cool... temporarily unplugged mine. Felt the big kick, although no tripping of gears... Maybe if I were to replace that knock sensor now.... lol

Also, I'm a bit fuzzy on how to hook up a switch to it... Can some one explain or maybe post pictures?

 

Read the stickies...it's in there.

 

just get a VB modd and call it a day better for your trans anyways

 

ah unplugged mine too for a short drive, kick as$. i'm gonna have to do the "how to" now.

 

yeah i cant find it in the stickies.....

 

its one of the first threads in the nitrous forums rite now... http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=285482

 

basically, find a lever switch, a picture is shown in the thread. cut ONE wire from the drop resistor, either one...connect the wires to the switch...mount the switch somewhere where the throttle will hit it right at full throttle. the switch needs to be normally closed...i bought mine from a race shop...quite pricey for just a darn switch tho, but its type big and works perfectly

 

waht do you mean the throttle will hit it right at full throttle? why cant i just turn it on with my hand?

 

nvm i see it....hmmm

 

well, either way u wanna do it, i did it with the throttle switch so that i aint gotta worry bout flippin a switch...oh btw, u will get a cel code doin this

 

You do not want to run your tranny at full pressure at all times. It creates more heat, but most of all, it takes horespower to run that higher pessure.

The switch is a good way to go.

The best is to buy that modified valve body.

If anybody knows which passages are drilled out in the valve body, I would love to know. I just cant bring myself to forking over $500 for something I may be able to do myself.

 

i havent read on the valve body. i would go for the switch next to the throttle if i can find one.
and will i get a cel code permanently? or just when the switch is on.

 

I just bought a relay to disconnect both wires & to be fail safe, so if the wiring breaks or fails it stays connected. I'll put togather a write up later.

 

well, i've read that the vb and this does exactly the same thing, u gotta talk to jime bout this stuff. but, i have my cel code permanently. its a code about shifting at full pressure, so u know its working. if u reset it, it'll come bak wen u activate it again. also, after everytime u use it, wen u go to start the car again, the o/d off light will blink 16 times. its all related to shifting at full pressure

 

so your running it full pressure ALL THE TIME? if thats the case, you might want to reconsider and read that post with the how to included that jime made.
im gonna just get the micro switch like jime.

 

If you want quicker shifts, just use your shifter and do it manually. Simply shift right before the redline at 6000. I see no point in putting a drop resistor in as my shifts cannot get any quicker than they are now.

 

No thanks.

 

its not that, cuz wen u shift it manually at 6000 it still wont actually shift until a few hundred rpms later, rite?? and it slips n sh*t, with this, it kinda lessens that lag and reduces slipping,

 

No if runs a full pressure when it is disconnected, I will also use a lighted switch so I don't forget when it's on.

 

Um, you guys don't WANT to shift at redline. A 4th gen without some sort of VI has no business shifting at redline because you don't make more power there.

 

I beg to differ. Peak horsepower in a 4th Gen occurs at 5600 RPM, and since you are concentrating on the road and the cars around you in addition to shifting, 6,000 on the tach is a lot easier to spot than 5,600, and that is why I suggested it.

When you're at the track, you do not have that worry.

 

If you tranny is slipping at that RPM, then you should not really be racing it, unless you plan on having it rebuilt soon.

What I have found is that, regardless of the pedal pressure I apply, shifting manually will always give me a faster shift. The same cannot be said for doing it fully auto.

 

That does not affect how fast the transmission shifts.