2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

ok well i had my brembo crossed drilled rotors and ebc green pads on for about 400miles now. ive bedded them in and everything. My car doesnt stop on point, not even at low low speeds. i mean if i do bleed the brake lines i know it wont make that much of a dramatical difference, then the feeling is right now.

plus i have ABS i remember when i first got my car, whenever i would hit the brakes hard i would feel the abs kick in, but dont even feel any of that anymore, and i just got a new abs sensor when i did my rotors.

the braking is really sluggish and dangerous, if someone was to stop infront of me suddenly it would be a rap. Think its the master cylinder??

killerVQ30DE

IIRC ABS does not work below a certain speed ( ie its OFF)

But yeah i've gone to hit the brakes sometime at very low speed, like for drive ways, and had the car go a good metre more than I would have wanted

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

i mean to tell you the truth it feels the same even before i changed the pads and rotors. i was like ok i got some brembo rotors, and performance pads i should feel it. i knew i wasnt going to feel it in the first week, but i kept telling myself maybe more miles becasue the instructions did say 300miles. well its over 400 and i dont feel shiet. it feels looose

nupe500

iTrader: (13)

u usually don't need to change the master cylinder unless its leaking or not holding pressure and fluid is leaking out. What you may want to do is bleed the brakes or have them bled. That should eliviate your problem.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

When you did the brakes, did you clean out the caliper pins and the retaining clips... perhaps the calipers are sticking and so you aren't getting good pressure against the rotors...

Brakes are simple, but there is lot more to doing it right than just slapping on the rotors and pads (not suggesting that you did that, but with the number of people around here with brake issues, and bragging about getting their brakes done while shaving, I'm not suprised people have brake troubles).

Did you replace front and rears?

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

well thats the thing, i had no money at the time and really needed to do my brakes, but according to you guys i shouldve just bled the system.

btw i just did the front

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Not true, ABS is always monitoring wheel decelleration speed right to the point where the car is completely stopped.


2 Da MAx - You installed performance pads and rotors. Performance pads need a higher operating temperature before they grab best. Their ment to resist fad under hard braking conditions. If you wanted better brakes for everyday driving with better initial bite then you should have gone with a basic semi metallic pad or even genuine Nissan pads for best overall braking with good initial bite. The brake pads you installed are designed to work at higher operating temperatures and resist fading under much more severe driving conditions such as auto-x.

If you not happy with your new setup and feel you need more pedal pressure to stop the car under "normal" driving conditions, change your pads to something a little less agressive. Try TRW ceramic pads for a nice combination of performance with good initial bite.

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

so good initial bite...dam i didnt realise ebc was that much of a performance pad, i thought porterfields were. Everyone told me to get it, but i think your right.. lol i know your right, you told me to change my knucke on the hub, i did and its striaght, so thanks for that.

man i better change them before winter comes and i wont be able to stop in the cold

PAREDLINE

Dont bull****e with your brakes. If you think the master cylinder is bad then change it. The symptoms you described point to a bad master cylinder especially after you changed the pads and rotors.

Now I have a question. When you took off the old pads were the front right/back left or front left/back right pads more worn than the others?

Those are the two channels that our master cylinders apply the brakes to. I have changed the master cylinder before. Its not a very hard job. You will need a shop manual if you've never done this before.

Dont use regular wrenches on the brake lines EVER. Always use flare wrenches. You might get away with using regular wrenches once or twice then you run the chance of stripping the nuts. Flare wrenches have an extra lip on the ends to prevent this.

Changing the master cylinder is also a good time to change brake fluid.

If you need any more help just post. Good luck.