Prolly the worst brakes ever
08-28-2005, 03:53 PM
#1
Prolly the worst brakes ever
Testing out my brakes in the somewhat new max and have come to the conclusion that they are the worst equipped stock brakes i've had on any car. Its as if they didnt even factor in the weight or performance level of the maxima before designing the brake sys. Immediately considering cross drill/slott rotors + solid pads as not to be re-doing the brakes all of the time. From what i've heard, i'm not alone here. Thinkin Brembo roto and some hawk pads? let me know what you experienced guys think.........
08-28-2005, 05:52 PM
#2
Originally Posted by Cosmo459sx
Testing out my brakes in the somewhat new max and have come to the conclusion that they are the worst equipped stock brakes i've had on any car. Its as if they didnt even factor in the weight or performance level of the maxima before designing the brake sys. Immediately considering cross drill/slott rotors + solid pads as not to be re-doing the brakes all of the time. From what i've heard, i'm not alone here. Thinkin Brembo roto and some hawk pads? let me know what you experienced guys think.........
Don't waste your money on the blingy x-drilled and slotted rotors, they won't help you stop any better. If your car needs new rotors just get some regular rotors, either replacement ones from autozone or if you are feeling rich go to nissan and get some OEM rotors. Get some good pads though. I've always been a fan of hawks, I'd suggest HPS for strictly street use.
08-28-2005, 06:11 PM
#4
Better brakes.....
If you got the money and don't mind burning it: 4 piston big brake kit. I know that they are hella expensive, but if money is no object and you have to stop the quickest......
just my thoughts....
On the low end, maybe get some porterfield pads, Motul 4 brake flud, SS-brake lines, and cross drilled/ slotted rotors.
Sppedbleeders as well. I just got done bleeding my brakes this afternoon. Saved me a bunch of time and the pedal feel is rock solid now with crystal clear fluid. YEAH!
just my thoughts....
On the low end, maybe get some porterfield pads, Motul 4 brake flud, SS-brake lines, and cross drilled/ slotted rotors.
Sppedbleeders as well. I just got done bleeding my brakes this afternoon. Saved me a bunch of time and the pedal feel is rock solid now with crystal clear fluid. YEAH!
08-28-2005, 06:16 PM
#5
interesting comments, i have felt the diff before with better pads, but have heard that the drilled/slott'd rotors last forever and work better. As far as the Big Brake kit, money is always an object to me, but a good suggestion though. Maybe I'll try the Auto Zone rotors and some hawk pads to go with the tranny cooler i'm gonna buy there. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Peace.
08-28-2005, 06:54 PM
#7
I have Porterfield street pads and Brembo front and rear cross-drilles and slotted rotors. They are a huge improvement over stock. I would know too because i drive my sister's stock 4th gen as a comparison. I highly recommend Porterfield. 
08-28-2005, 07:08 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 209
Pro Satisfied are the makers of the OEM pads right? I was looking on tirerack.com and it SAYS they are....Also who makes the OEM rotors? tirerack.com has brembos as their cheapest rotors (which absolutely shocked me, being a brake newbie).
Your max must be WEIRD! I've always thought the max as having its brakes as TOO powerful. I just rest my foot on the brake and i can go from 30-0 in about 7ft. No exaggerating. If i hit it hard, prolly under 5 or 6 ft. This is with pads and rotors that havent been changed for thousands of miles...i know its dangerous but i blame my dad cause he's a cheap bastage, so i'm taking charge myself.
Your max must be WEIRD! I've always thought the max as having its brakes as TOO powerful. I just rest my foot on the brake and i can go from 30-0 in about 7ft. No exaggerating. If i hit it hard, prolly under 5 or 6 ft. This is with pads and rotors that havent been changed for thousands of miles...i know its dangerous but i blame my dad cause he's a cheap bastage, so i'm taking charge myself.
08-28-2005, 07:20 PM
#9
1 of few unmodded 4G Maxs
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Commerce Twp., MI
Posts: 2,828
could be worse, you could have a chrysler or GM w/ ****ty OE brakes, IMO Nissan brakes hold up quite well. I had a '98 Altima once, broke hard and drove thru stop 'n go and didn't have to change the front pads 'til 47K
08-28-2005, 08:42 PM
#10
Satisfied Pro pads are pretty hit-and-miss. Definitely better than stock, but I had some and they didn't last too long and treated my rotors badly. Some like them, some don't.
The reason people say slotted/drilled rotors last longer is that they catch grime/dirt/buildup that gets on the rotors, instead of letting it get squeezed under the pads and chew the rotors to bits. That happened to me with my Brembo blanks, probably just because of my daily commute -- there's this one patch of parking lot that ALWAYS has fine gritty stuff all over, and it always gets picked up and tossed around. Switched to slotted rotors and haven't had the problem since.
But yeah, they don't actually help you stop better. Plus, once you factor in the huge price difference between blanks and slotted rotors, you might feel better with getting the cheapest blanks you can find and just replacing them more often.
Here are a couple of tips, to help the selection process:
- Slots are better than holes because they catch dirt better and don't force you to give up a lot of surface area.
- PBR/Axxis Ultimates are really really good pads. Probably the best possible total package of low dust and noise with great stopping power and fade resistance at a good price. In my experience, they sure kick the crap out of EBC Greenstuff and Satisfied Pro in all respects, and those are MUCH better than stock. From what I hear, Hawk HPS will stop better and fade less for the same price as the Ultimates, but will also make a little more noise and dust; Porterfield R4-S has the stopping power and fade resistance of the Hawks (if not more) with the civility of the Ultimates, but for twice the price.
The reason people say slotted/drilled rotors last longer is that they catch grime/dirt/buildup that gets on the rotors, instead of letting it get squeezed under the pads and chew the rotors to bits. That happened to me with my Brembo blanks, probably just because of my daily commute -- there's this one patch of parking lot that ALWAYS has fine gritty stuff all over, and it always gets picked up and tossed around. Switched to slotted rotors and haven't had the problem since.
But yeah, they don't actually help you stop better. Plus, once you factor in the huge price difference between blanks and slotted rotors, you might feel better with getting the cheapest blanks you can find and just replacing them more often.
Here are a couple of tips, to help the selection process:
- Slots are better than holes because they catch dirt better and don't force you to give up a lot of surface area.
- PBR/Axxis Ultimates are really really good pads. Probably the best possible total package of low dust and noise with great stopping power and fade resistance at a good price. In my experience, they sure kick the crap out of EBC Greenstuff and Satisfied Pro in all respects, and those are MUCH better than stock. From what I hear, Hawk HPS will stop better and fade less for the same price as the Ultimates, but will also make a little more noise and dust; Porterfield R4-S has the stopping power and fade resistance of the Hawks (if not more) with the civility of the Ultimates, but for twice the price.
08-28-2005, 10:14 PM
#11
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Satisfied Pro pads are pretty hit-and-miss. Definitely better than stock, but I had some and they didn't last too long and treated my rotors badly. Some like them, some don't.
The reason people say slotted/drilled rotors last longer is that they catch grime/dirt/buildup that gets on the rotors, instead of letting it get squeezed under the pads and chew the rotors to bits. That happened to me with my Brembo blanks, probably just because of my daily commute -- there's this one patch of parking lot that ALWAYS has fine gritty stuff all over, and it always gets picked up and tossed around. Switched to slotted rotors and haven't had the problem since.
But yeah, they don't actually help you stop better. Plus, once you factor in the huge price difference between blanks and slotted rotors, you might feel better with getting the cheapest blanks you can find and just replacing them more often.
Here are a couple of tips, to help the selection process:
- Slots are better than holes because they catch dirt better and don't force you to give up a lot of surface area.
- PBR/Axxis Ultimates are really really good pads. Probably the best possible total package of low dust and noise with great stopping power and fade resistance at a good price. In my experience, they sure kick the crap out of EBC Greenstuff and Satisfied Pro in all respects, and those are MUCH better than stock. From what I hear, Hawk HPS will stop better and fade less for the same price as the Ultimates, but will also make a little more noise and dust; Porterfield R4-S has the stopping power and fade resistance of the Hawks (if not more) with the civility of the Ultimates, but for twice the price.
The reason people say slotted/drilled rotors last longer is that they catch grime/dirt/buildup that gets on the rotors, instead of letting it get squeezed under the pads and chew the rotors to bits. That happened to me with my Brembo blanks, probably just because of my daily commute -- there's this one patch of parking lot that ALWAYS has fine gritty stuff all over, and it always gets picked up and tossed around. Switched to slotted rotors and haven't had the problem since.
But yeah, they don't actually help you stop better. Plus, once you factor in the huge price difference between blanks and slotted rotors, you might feel better with getting the cheapest blanks you can find and just replacing them more often.
Here are a couple of tips, to help the selection process:
- Slots are better than holes because they catch dirt better and don't force you to give up a lot of surface area.
- PBR/Axxis Ultimates are really really good pads. Probably the best possible total package of low dust and noise with great stopping power and fade resistance at a good price. In my experience, they sure kick the crap out of EBC Greenstuff and Satisfied Pro in all respects, and those are MUCH better than stock. From what I hear, Hawk HPS will stop better and fade less for the same price as the Ultimates, but will also make a little more noise and dust; Porterfield R4-S has the stopping power and fade resistance of the Hawks (if not more) with the civility of the Ultimates, but for twice the price.
08-29-2005, 12:51 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 240
squeaky BRAKES
hi all! i just installed some Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic Pads and resurfaced my rotors. My brakes squeak and scream freakin loud! It is esp. loud on hot days. My old brakes squeaked a lot as well. Any solutions to quiet them down?
08-29-2005, 04:23 PM
#14
Originally Posted by d00df00d
- PBR/Axxis Ultimates are really really good pads. Probably the best possible total package of low dust and noise with great stopping power and fade resistance at a good price.
they are great pads, but if you don't like cleaning your wheels every week, don't get them.
08-29-2005, 04:37 PM
#15
These on the Z caliper Casey?
Originally Posted by global_threat
i don't know what experience you have with Axxis Ultimates, but they are NOT low dust. my silver wheels look gunmetal after two weeks of daily driving.
they are great pads, but if you don't like cleaning your wheels every week, don't get them.
they are great pads, but if you don't like cleaning your wheels every week, don't get them.
08-29-2005, 04:42 PM
#16
BTW. The maxima is the largest car that Nissan uses that uses the single piston caliper and small arsed 11.x" rotors. So unless your brakes are on good working order, they might feel like that they lacking in peformance.
08-29-2005, 05:26 PM
#17
I've got Axxis Ultimates (not by choice) on my turbo car... they are NOT enough pad for me. They are superior to any oem/autozone BS setup, but they are not up to par with other pads. I will be removing them soon and putting them on my beater, and HPS or HP+ will be going on the turbo car.
08-29-2005, 06:00 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
BTW. The maxima is the largest car that Nissan uses that uses the single piston caliper and small arsed 11.x" rotors. So unless your brakes are on good working order, they might feel like that they lacking in peformance.
Makes perfect sense.
As far as the debate between the slotted/drilled rotors vs oe, new info to me.I thought that the slotted/drilled dissipated heat better as well?
08-29-2005, 06:47 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Cosmo459sx
Makes perfect sense.
As far as the debate between the slotted/drilled rotors vs oe, new info to me.I thought that the slotted/drilled dissipated heat better as well?
As far as the debate between the slotted/drilled rotors vs oe, new info to me.I thought that the slotted/drilled dissipated heat better as well?
The only differences you will notice are faster pad wear, more brake dust, and more noise. Seriously, drop the slotted/drilled rotor idea.
08-30-2005, 03:10 PM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 13
Please help me
I hate to hijack a thread, but i can't post a new one. I'm in the middle of changing my brake pads and can't get the piston to depress with the a c clamp can anyone give me any advice or point me to a step by step
08-30-2005, 03:13 PM
#22
read this:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f5965.jsp
Then put this autozone link into your favorites and refer to it frequently.
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f5965.jsp
Then put this autozone link into your favorites and refer to it frequently.
Originally Posted by Danjr
I hate to hijack a thread, but i can't post a new one. I'm in the middle of changing my brake pads and can't get the piston to depress with the a c clamp can anyone give me any advice or point me to a step by step
08-30-2005, 06:04 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 731
Originally Posted by Danjr
I hate to hijack a thread, but i can't post a new one. I'm in the middle of changing my brake pads and can't get the piston to depress with the a c clamp can anyone give me any advice or point me to a step by step
08-30-2005, 06:13 PM
#24
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally Posted by tomservo291
Rear or front brakes? Don't try to use a c-clamp on your rear calipers!
The rear calipers compress by turning them clockwise while applying pressure to them. There is a tool specifically designed to do this which you could probably rent from your local auto parts store.
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