The reason is cause the ECU is going into safe mode when given any type of gas on start up...Whenever you have a problem starting these cars, FLOOR the gas and I garentee the car will start every time. the ECU is overridenen

If there is a crimp in any fuel line that may be bad

-matt

This is not always true. My '98 GLE Maxima (with 80k) wouldn't start no matter what i did to the gas pedal. Also, the ECU didn't show any codes =(
I have replcaed the CAM POS SENSOR, even though it had proper resistance (1.5 kohm), (~$70 at nissan) and so far so good. For two days in the row it started very smoothly in the morning. I will update everyone in a few days.

p.s. MORAL = even if you can check the CAM POS SENSOR and the resistance is according to the specs, it is STILL WORTH REPLACING.... granted you have a problem with missfiring or starting ....

Sincerely,

-Iggy

There are three (3) (if i'm not mistaken) tensioners, whose main purpouse is to ensure that the chain is properly sitting there (not loose). The tensioners have the tendency to wear out, simply because they work from oil pressure (this is why sometimes, when you start your engine from cold, it will make clicking noises before the pressure raises to normal and the chain is under the proper pressure.

When these tensioners wear out, the chain becomes loose (you can also hear the noise) and making it very easy for it to slip.... hence resuling in timing issues...

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

-Iggy

Have you checked the wiring between sensors and the ECU ? It might be a good idea to pool on those wires while checking to find discontinuity, since it might not be a permanent one.....

Have you checked the ground connector on the engine (two screws and lots of ground wires on each) ?

Check the fuel pressure.... and post the result...

Sincerely,

-Iggy

Keep us posted Iggy! Mine tested normal so I did not replace it. I am running out of stuff to replace so maybe rethinking the cam pos sensor is reasonalbe!

i'll throw my $0.02 since i had this exact problem and i managed to get lucky and fix it.
i didn't do a tranny swap, but a month after i dropped the 5sp for a rebuild and new clutch, my baby would take 30s to start. tried all things mentioned above-starter, various sensors with the multimeter, etc. turns out my problem was the forward CPS was a little loose in the bellhousing, so it wasn't getting a good signal. good thing that fixed the problem because the next step was to pull the tranny to check the teeth on the flywheel to make sure they weren't chipped off.
the sensor itself was working fine, it just wasn't aligned with the flywheel teeth.
hope this helps a bit.

I too have this starting problem, and It began occuring right after a 5sp tranny rebuild. I'm also partially convinced that it is due to advanced/retarded timing due to wear from the timing chain. Under full throttle and high RPM 4k+ I hear a noise that could be the timing chain, metal on metal) I am assuming there is chain slop in there. With 200k, i'll probably just drive here till she doesn't start at all

I read through as many starting problem posts. I am very mechanically inclined. I have rebuilt motors (mostly domestic, big block, etc..) So I have a working knowledge of whats going on in there. Let me see if I have this straight. Could be the cam position senson, Crank position sensor, or timing chain. There is no loss of power or other noises, just the starting problem where you crank once, the car starts, dies, crank again, the car runs.

I think I may just replace both of the CPS' today. Can anyone tell me where they are located so I don't have to buy a Chilton for this thing. We're not keeping it that much longer anyway.

Im having starting issues of my own. I recently had my clutch changed new spark plugs new starter and new fuel filter. I have never had any problems with my max before until now... Before the clutch change it would fire up first try every time. It was supposed to go in for a clutch change only due to a slipping clutch then the mechanic told me i should replace the starter, plugs and fuel filter i couldnt remember when they were last changed so I gave him the go ahead. Now it takes at least 3 and the most so far 11 cranks before i can get her fired up. Once started she idles and drives beautifully. Gonna bring it back to the mechanic tommorow and see what happens....

Like i promissed,

It's been 4 days now and the car started fine every morning.... So i guess it is a good time to conclude that the CAM POS SENSOR was indeed at fault...

-Iggy

Is the check engine light on ? What are the codes ?

Thanks for the update Iggy. Can you describe what the hard starting was like for you before?

I have no CEL's have no idea why my car is starting like crap any input anyone?

no CEL. This one has me stumped. I am leery of just throwing new sensors at it. My list of possible causes is:

Ignition switch
Crank position sensor
Cam position sensor
Water in the fuel ( i just replaced the fuel filter)
Knock sensor???
coils

If it were the knock sensor I would get no codes but it would lack power, not the case here.

If the timing was screwed up it would run horrible, this car runs fine when started.

It has 156,xxx miles

Any more ideas before I start throwing money at it?

Check All Of These Sensor Air Intake Temp Sensor Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Also The Sending Unit For It Also The Crank Sensor Pos, Crank Sensor Ref, And Cam Sensor Check The Resistance To All Of The Have To Take The Off And Test Them . The Air Intake Temp And Coolant Sensor Check With Water Dip Them A Cup Of Warm Water Use A Meter To Measure The Resistance The Haynes Manual Tell You How To Test Them Dont Over Look These Sensor The Have All Work Together To Start Your Car Also Check The Fuel Pressure

Excuse The Spelling Typing Too Fast

I too am having the same problems starting the car after i swapped my auto tranny. Oigh i was hoping to get my car running this week.

Thats Good Glad To Here That Your In Manhattan? Im In The Bx I Have A Autoegnuity Scantool You Should Buy One Learn About Obd2 So You Can Make Your Own Repairs

No Codes Starting= Crap ! im at a loss....

I had this same problem for years, it was really bad at one point so i took it to the dealer, well after a couple sensors and a couple hundred bucks the problem came right back. A few months later I made my own grounding system with about 7 contact points throughout the engine and body and i have never had a single problem starting my car since, warm or cold. I hope its something this simple in your situation, the whole setup cost about $30, i think its in the how to's. Good luck.

I just got my car back from the dealer after they did a diagnostics test on my car these are the results:

Ground for sensor located between transmission case and motor surface, most likely disturbed when clutch was replaced, and mating surface was not cleaned. Will require removal of transmission and cleaning of mating surfaces, about $486.00 to complete plus fluids.

Yup, makes sense. That is exactly what I was talking about on page 1 of this thread. Just get in writing that if this does not fix the car, or the car returns to its crappy state within a couple of weeks, that you will get a refund. Pay with a credit card too. That way you have a fighting chance.

Yeah my NISSAN starter didnt fix it... its better.. but it didnt fix it.....
I'm gonna have to do that grounding crap....

Please check the timming, it might have advanced. I had the same problem....

Is extra fuel actually being introduced by stepping on the gas during start? I'm having the same problem with the same results as far as a little gas pedel and it starts right up.

I figured the TPS was suspect but can't figure out how to test it. My Chilton manual shows a different picture and show instructions for a TPS with only one plug. My 95 has two plugs. Any idea how to test? Thanks.

I'm glad you mention the TPS because a malfunctioning one will cause erratic spurts of fuel because the ECU thinks the throttle is moving when it's not. This can cause hard starting.

Most of the time, I think the gas pedal has more to do with the opening of the throttle body valve. I would try cleaning your throttle body and then check to see what your base idle is.

Thanks for the advice but unfortunately I'm already way past cleaning the TB.

Over the last couple months of having this starting problem I've:

cleaned the TB thoroughly
replaced both air and fuel filters
completely disassembled and cleaned the IACV
rebuilt the starter with new solenoid, brushes, etc..
tested the ECT, MAF, TPS, CPS both ref and pos
tested the camshaft sensor

all sensors tested out good within the parameters listed in Chilton manual (1993-1998 repair manual)

I currently have no codes on the ECM but a couple of weeks ago it did record a ghost code of 0407 (CPS ref, starting circuit, etc.)

I'm completely at a loss on this as its becoming pretty frustrating.

The starting problem is definetely temperature dependent because it always starts easily when its cold. When its warm it takes two or three tries and by opening the TPS a little, it usually starts right up. And just to reiterate...yes I've already tested the ECT three times.

Does anyone think the ECU itself is bad and is there any way to test it?

Thanks for all responses.

BUMP....anyone.....BUMP

Sorry. Didn't know what your situation was. I guess we are in the same boat. I've tested and replaced a ton of stuff and am completely stumped and frustrated. I haven't noticed any improvement with juicing the gas pedal though. It mostly happens warm but sometimes from a cold start too.

I am doubtful that it's the grounding from the mating surfaces of the engine/tranny although I've heard that one a few times. It's not like the surfaces were dirty and wouldn't the bolts serve was electrical conductors?

Because Iggy had success with the camshaft pos sensor (despite it's testing OK), I went ahead and ordered one. There is nothing left for me to test. It's really pissing me off because the car runs great in every other aspect but this starting problem is makes the car seem like a POS!

I can completely relate. Car runs awesome in every other way including a very smooth idle. I agree on the grounding issue on your tranny. There alot of metal touching down there so why would grounding be a problem.

I too am considering replacing a sensor or two even though they test out perfectly both hot and cold. I guess I'll start with the ECT since I've never had a problem with cold start. Only warm starts when it sits for a while.

Have you considered the ECU as the problem? Do you know of any way to test it?

Not the ECU. Had a JWT ECU in and recently went stock. No difference. Wiring is always possible but I don't think the ECU is likely at all for me.

Man, I hate the random buying of replacement parts to see if that makes a difference. Crank pos sensor, ignition switch, ects, etc... etc...

Kills me that sometimes it starts right up, others the cranking is sickly. Has been ongoing for over a year now too...slowly getting more frequent.

Im going to try running some more grounds...
If this doesnt fix it, I dont know what im going to do.... its really bad sometimes...............agh

Probably your Cam sensor too as its on the trans so you might have missed it after the swap

maybe you could find a spot on the motor and one on the trans to run a gound across to make up for the bad contact point they are sellin you on ?

what about valve seals if they are worn dont they cause hard starting spittin an sputtering at startup?

But are problems started after a transmission swap... no need to go into other aspects when the problem didnt occur untill the transmission was removed....

bbuummpppppp

It was the crankshaft sensor that was overlooked by me, it wasn't put on correctly. Car's been running now for a few week already, so far no problems.

I'm RIGHT there with you... I had that code as well...
I'm really stuck..... I don't know what else could be wrong, and what even made it start...
Thousands have done tranny swaps on here.... I don't understand why its doing this....