Replace Starter, Hard?
#1
Replace Starter, Hard?
I checked the Stickey's and could only find how to regrease the starter. But the starter died on my the other day and won't work anymore. Before I would hit it with something hard and it would start up. Now nothing. Anyway my cousin told me he would replace it for me but he just bought a house and is really busy with that. So now I wanna replace it myself since school is starting on Thrusday. Do you need to jack it up or anything since it is pretty low? I never bothered asking my cousin because he would just tell me he got it don't worry and never do it. Thanks.
#3
It's super easy. The instructions on how to regrease it should tell you how to remove it. But I will give you instructions in case it doesn't. Pull off your air intake (if you have anthing aftermarket on there, this will be really easy). Grab a 14mm, a 12mm, and a 10mm socket and a wrench to fit them and you should be home free. I can't remember the exact size of each bolt, but I am almost positive this is all you need. Like i30ds said, there are 2 bolts that hold it onto the tranny, 1 nut you have to remove that gives it power, and a harness to unclip that gives it the ground signal, and it's off.
#4
I just replaced mine a week ago for the first time (I'm a newbie) and it took me an hour. It's really simple.
The only problem I had was that rubber covering the electrical connection, I couldn't make it cover it again. No matter how much I pulled and tried, it just wouldn't stay. Is this an issue? If it is, what can I do?
The only problem I had was that rubber covering the electrical connection, I couldn't make it cover it again. No matter how much I pulled and tried, it just wouldn't stay. Is this an issue? If it is, what can I do?
#7
Originally Posted by i30ds
2 bolts. 1 nut. 1 connector. And you're done. It'll take you 15 min. no problem...
I just put a 5th Gen starter in mine this weekend and it is a piece of cake. Try to use a breaker bar if that bolt doesn't loosen with a regular ratchet.
#8
I remember when I replaced my starter, I put a pipe over my 1/2 in rachet and tugged and all of a sudden I heard a loud pop, like this but 10x louder... I thought for sure I sheared the bolt, but to my pleasant surprise, it was just the sound of the bolt breaking loose... heh heh.
#9
It (time to be done) also depends on how much stock intake piping is still intact too ...
I used an old fence post pipe as a breaker bar ... That pop is sometimes a good sound and sometimes it's not . .
I used an old fence post pipe as a breaker bar ... That pop is sometimes a good sound and sometimes it's not . .
#10
just make sure the engine is cold, if it is the slight bit warm the aluminum around that big bolt expands making it very difficult to break loose took me about 2 hours to grease, remove and install the starter
#13
Originally Posted by diy_dreamer
I just replaced mine a week ago for the first time (I'm a newbie) and it took me an hour. It's really simple.
The only problem I had was that rubber covering the electrical connection, I couldn't make it cover it again. No matter how much I pulled and tried, it just wouldn't stay. Is this an issue? If it is, what can I do?
The only problem I had was that rubber covering the electrical connection, I couldn't make it cover it again. No matter how much I pulled and tried, it just wouldn't stay. Is this an issue? If it is, what can I do?
#14
replacing the starter = easy
getting it to start correctly = a royal pain
tools I needed...
-pliers
-flat head screw driver
-breaker bar - one bolt is a transmission/engine bolt and depending on whether tranny has been removed or not or if you max is severly corroded you will need this
-metric rachet set
-30 mins
I stopped by my local dealer and bought a bunch of crap to put in to aid starting issues - recommended from a recent thread.
getting it to start correctly = a royal pain
tools I needed...
-pliers
-flat head screw driver
-breaker bar - one bolt is a transmission/engine bolt and depending on whether tranny has been removed or not or if you max is severly corroded you will need this
-metric rachet set
-30 mins
I stopped by my local dealer and bought a bunch of crap to put in to aid starting issues - recommended from a recent thread.
#15
Originally Posted by deezo
15 minutes if that large diameter bolt will break loose. What a biiotch that was.
I just put a 5th Gen starter in mine this weekend and it is a piece of cake. Try to use a breaker bar if that bolt doesn't loosen with a regular ratchet.
I just put a 5th Gen starter in mine this weekend and it is a piece of cake. Try to use a breaker bar if that bolt doesn't loosen with a regular ratchet.
#16
Originally Posted by i30ds
Breaker bar is any DIYers best friend... I could not imagine trying to get that one really long bolt out with out one.
#18
well i had to change mine in the middle of winter, i used the breaker bar and a big metal pipe over it. the part that took me the longest was removing the stock air intake assembly, because i had never touched it before at the time.
im glad nissan made the starters ON TOP of the engine and not below
im glad nissan made the starters ON TOP of the engine and not below
#20
Originally Posted by deezo
I know. I have one but couldn't find it in my utility closet until yesterday. I had to use my torque wrench.
#21
i'm having a starting issue these days. i've replaced the starter, the alternator, intake, and cleaned the TB. But for some reason i have starting issues in the morning or any time i leave it sitting for a period of time more than about 4 hours. i have to give it gas in order to start it up and it still takes a bit to start usually have to try a couple of times. Any help would be appreciated. oh yeah its a 95 maxima gle with 157k on it.
I would post on the mainboard with subject line and everything but for some reason it won't let me.
I would post on the mainboard with subject line and everything but for some reason it won't let me.
#22
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
im glad nissan made the starters ON TOP of the engine and not below
as others have said, the starter is cake. its probably the easiest thing to change on the car.
#23
Originally Posted by Gregersonke
i'm having a starting issue these days. i've replaced the starter, the alternator, intake, and cleaned the TB. But for some reason i have starting issues in the morning or any time i leave it sitting for a period of time more than about 4 hours. i have to give it gas in order to start it up and it still takes a bit to start usually have to try a couple of times. Any help would be appreciated. oh yeah its a 95 maxima gle with 157k on it.
I would post on the mainboard with subject line and everything but for some reason it won't let me.
I would post on the mainboard with subject line and everything but for some reason it won't let me.
Its most likely your Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
(ECTS).
Eventually you will get a check engine light.
The temp sensor is not for your temp gauge, but supplies signal to the ECU .. ECU thinks the engine is too Hot or too Cold to safely run so it stops you from starting as the sensor is slowly failing
I think the part is like $10-20, its located in the upper radiator hose...
its the 2nd sensor in the pic (from the front) You can see it easily if you remove the air scoop that sits above your radiator
#24
I replaced mine about a month ago, wasn't too hard. But i did get a CEL light. I think it was because i unhook and reattatched what looked to be a sensor or gound. But i cleared it with my Auterra and it was all good. Love that sound of a new starter .
#25
to remove the starter you need:
17 and 14mm socket.
small and long ratchet extension.
ratchet.
If the starter has not been removed before it is going to be hard to loosen the bolts , however putting a pipe over ratchet handle will do the job.
Good luck
17 and 14mm socket.
small and long ratchet extension.
ratchet.
If the starter has not been removed before it is going to be hard to loosen the bolts , however putting a pipe over ratchet handle will do the job.
Good luck
#26
Originally Posted by killerVQ30DE
This thread is answered anyway ... heres what I think will fix the problem
Its most likely your Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
(ECTS).
Eventually you will get a check engine light.
The temp sensor is not for your temp gauge, but supplies signal to the ECU .. ECU thinks the engine is too Hot or too Cold to safely run so it stops you from starting as the sensor is slowly failing
I think the part is like $10-20, its located in the upper radiator hose...
its the 2nd sensor in the pic (from the front) You can see it easily if you remove the air scoop that sits above your radiator
Its most likely your Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
(ECTS).
Eventually you will get a check engine light.
The temp sensor is not for your temp gauge, but supplies signal to the ECU .. ECU thinks the engine is too Hot or too Cold to safely run so it stops you from starting as the sensor is slowly failing
I think the part is like $10-20, its located in the upper radiator hose...
its the 2nd sensor in the pic (from the front) You can see it easily if you remove the air scoop that sits above your radiator
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