Tearin' it apart! Intake-Man removed (pics)
09-17-2005, 08:53 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 55
Tearin' it apart! Intake-Man removed (pics)
I got home the other day and my GF is freaking out because her car failed emissions because of the CE light being on. They were so kind as to pull the codes for us, and it came up with a bad knock sensor and a bad EGRC Solenoid. EGRC solenoid after some searching and reading and actually finding out what the hell it is, I fight the wiring harness off and the 3 vacume lines and blow through it... stuck wide open ok so easy enough, check the dealership for a new one on monday.
Then... THE KNOCK SENSOR. I mean from an effectiveness viewpoint if you're listening for knocks where do you want to be? Right in the middle of the block, but come on! The knock sensor is mounted to the block right underneith the lower intake manifold. There is an opening at the back of the block so that you might actually be able to get to it if it wasn't for the rediculous amount of wiring an vaccume lines that passed by so I was forced to do what the haynes manual says: remove the upper and lower intake manifold. Now heres all the pics so you guys will know what I'm talking about for the rest of this.
Now at this point you're probably realizing the same thing I am... just what it really means to have your EGRC stuck wide open. Just in case you didn't know, EGRC = Exhaust Gas Reciculator Controller... or a system that detects when your car is producing high levels of NOx and recirculates some exhaust gasses so that the later combustions will not be as hot. Well it was recirculating exhaust ALL THE FREAKIN TIME. On top of the knock sensor being bad, which forces the ECU to default to factory default timing tables, this thing has been struggling to stay alive.
While i have it all apart I'd be crazy to not clean it out, and from the looks of things I think I'm going to pull the valve covers off and replace the gaskets. I thought about replacing the head gaskets too but that's some work ahead of me if I started that one. As far as I know they're fine so I'm going to leave them. Now main reason I'm posting this is because I'm fairly new to this type of work, and this is the first time I've ever had an engine this much apart. Now I am on a time limit here so sure it would be tempting to pull the heads apart and clean/inspect everything, but what it boils down to is I just wouldn't have the time, this thing is supposed to be back together for retesting tuesday she says, so I'm thinking clean the manifolds out, replace a couple extras, and seafoam it when I'm done. I put an aftermarket Y-pipe on it and this thing has always been faster than my cars anyways so when it's running right this thing should be a beast. I'm almost excited to find the things that have been wrong with it so I can fix it and take it for a spin.
Thoughts? Tips? Experienced warnings?
Then... THE KNOCK SENSOR. I mean from an effectiveness viewpoint if you're listening for knocks where do you want to be? Right in the middle of the block, but come on! The knock sensor is mounted to the block right underneith the lower intake manifold. There is an opening at the back of the block so that you might actually be able to get to it if it wasn't for the rediculous amount of wiring an vaccume lines that passed by so I was forced to do what the haynes manual says: remove the upper and lower intake manifold. Now heres all the pics so you guys will know what I'm talking about for the rest of this.
Now at this point you're probably realizing the same thing I am... just what it really means to have your EGRC stuck wide open. Just in case you didn't know, EGRC = Exhaust Gas Reciculator Controller... or a system that detects when your car is producing high levels of NOx and recirculates some exhaust gasses so that the later combustions will not be as hot. Well it was recirculating exhaust ALL THE FREAKIN TIME. On top of the knock sensor being bad, which forces the ECU to default to factory default timing tables, this thing has been struggling to stay alive.
While i have it all apart I'd be crazy to not clean it out, and from the looks of things I think I'm going to pull the valve covers off and replace the gaskets. I thought about replacing the head gaskets too but that's some work ahead of me if I started that one. As far as I know they're fine so I'm going to leave them. Now main reason I'm posting this is because I'm fairly new to this type of work, and this is the first time I've ever had an engine this much apart. Now I am on a time limit here so sure it would be tempting to pull the heads apart and clean/inspect everything, but what it boils down to is I just wouldn't have the time, this thing is supposed to be back together for retesting tuesday she says, so I'm thinking clean the manifolds out, replace a couple extras, and seafoam it when I'm done. I put an aftermarket Y-pipe on it and this thing has always been faster than my cars anyways so when it's running right this thing should be a beast. I'm almost excited to find the things that have been wrong with it so I can fix it and take it for a spin.
Thoughts? Tips? Experienced warnings?
09-17-2005, 08:58 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 55
Oh and I realized after posting some of the pics need explaining
1) about half of the nuts and bolts I removed, all of which I know where they go
hopefully...2) 140kish miles of winter climate-no maintenance-goodness! The knock sensor alone has been out for about 3 years.
3+4) shots of the back intake ports on the cylinder head. It's completely black in there. Oh and those are Acorns sitting on top there, and there was also a huge nest underneith the lower intake manifold... something had moved in.
5) Shot of lower intake manifold and air filter that suffered my elbow (darn honey, now I'll have to buy you a K&N...)
6) the back of the upper intake manifold where the EGR recirculates it's exhaust. You can't see too well there, but opening diameter is maybe 30% because of all the grime.
7+8) upper intake manifold. From the inside you'd thing it was an exhaust manifold.
I'm just worried about how the inside seems a little bit greasy... what could be getting in there? Didn't smell like anything. Oh and does anybody know if a PCV valve is supposed to be covered in oil? When I changed it on my 96 fire I had a couple years ago I remember it was then too.
09-17-2005, 09:21 PM
#10
Good job, I did this not too long ago. Sprayed the hell out of the upper part with TB cleaner. I didn't take the injectors off though. I think the black crap comes from the engine air recirculation(pcv system).
How long did it take you?
How long did it take you?
09-17-2005, 09:32 PM
#11
the EGR is probably either stuck open because of buildup in the EGR valve, or the solenoid controlling it has gone bad. I see it all the time in 3 gens.
remove EGR and clean. test with vacuum pump for function. if it works, stick it back on the car. if not, replace.
if that doesn't fix the problem, then the solenoid is likely stuck open. test with vacuum gauge on EGR vacuum line and multimeter on wires to verify that it's getting proper pulses from ECU. will tell you everything you need to know in just a few minutes and you didn't spend a dime on gaskets.
remove EGR and clean. test with vacuum pump for function. if it works, stick it back on the car. if not, replace.
if that doesn't fix the problem, then the solenoid is likely stuck open. test with vacuum gauge on EGR vacuum line and multimeter on wires to verify that it's getting proper pulses from ECU. will tell you everything you need to know in just a few minutes and you didn't spend a dime on gaskets.
09-18-2005, 05:46 AM
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 55
I didn't really time it, but it took me a few hours. You have to remove part of the airbox so that the TB is free, and remove the rear ignition coils. After that it's a matter of detaching like 100's of wiring harnesses, vaccume lines, coolant lines.... etc. Not really 100's but it sure feels that way. 6 bolts hold the manifold to the engine itself but a couple of things you'll have to unbolt/unscrew to take off like the throttle cables. Anybody else who is thinking about doing it I'd recommend you label things as you unplug them. I didn't, but I have a knack for being able to put things that I took apart back together and if worse comes to worse I know how to read diagrams. Also I think I'd go crazy but what I was doing was replacing as many bolts as I could once I took something off, so I wouldn't get them mixed up with the others.
And yeah it was the EGRC stuck open.
And yeah it was the EGRC stuck open.
09-18-2005, 07:12 AM
#14
i've taken the upper intake manifold off probably a dozen times now
a few tips:
you don't have to fool around with the coolant lines that much..you can take out the 4 bolts holding in the throttle body (cuz that's where teh coolant lines are) and just pull the whole TB/hose assembly into the direction of the battery...this way you won't have to pull off any hoses and worry about green coolant getting sprayed everywhere
however, you will have to remove the coolant hose behind the intake manifold, i think it's located under the EGR
i dont remember if the Haynes manual makes you remove the IACV assembly, but you don't need to at all. of course, it'll allow easier access to reach the EGR Guide tube connection into the upper intake manifold, but you can easily get around it..just feel around for the two EGR bolts
also..your rear valve cover looks like it is leaking..you may need a new gasket (this is not difficult at all)..remove the 10 bolts for the rear valve cover, take off the RVC, take off the gasket, CLEAN off old sealant and dirt inside the RVC groove and also the flange that it sits on..apply new sealant (i cannot stress this enough!) inbetween the new gasket and RVC groove and also inbetween the new gasket and flange..and put all 10 bolts back on...and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!! i broke 8 bolts once by overtightening, they all sheared off and i had to drill into the engine bay and extract them out (watta headache)..they only require like 5 ft-lb of torque which is nothing in the grand scheme of things
and one more thing...whenever you're working with the ports open like that into the engine, make sure u cover that up with a towel or something..u don't want to drop a bolt or screw in there, then you're gonna have 10000000000x of a headache
a few tips:
you don't have to fool around with the coolant lines that much..you can take out the 4 bolts holding in the throttle body (cuz that's where teh coolant lines are) and just pull the whole TB/hose assembly into the direction of the battery...this way you won't have to pull off any hoses and worry about green coolant getting sprayed everywhere
however, you will have to remove the coolant hose behind the intake manifold, i think it's located under the EGR
i dont remember if the Haynes manual makes you remove the IACV assembly, but you don't need to at all. of course, it'll allow easier access to reach the EGR Guide tube connection into the upper intake manifold, but you can easily get around it..just feel around for the two EGR bolts
also..your rear valve cover looks like it is leaking..you may need a new gasket (this is not difficult at all)..remove the 10 bolts for the rear valve cover, take off the RVC, take off the gasket, CLEAN off old sealant and dirt inside the RVC groove and also the flange that it sits on..apply new sealant (i cannot stress this enough!) inbetween the new gasket and RVC groove and also inbetween the new gasket and flange..and put all 10 bolts back on...and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!! i broke 8 bolts once by overtightening, they all sheared off and i had to drill into the engine bay and extract them out (watta headache)..they only require like 5 ft-lb of torque which is nothing in the grand scheme of things
and one more thing...whenever you're working with the ports open like that into the engine, make sure u cover that up with a towel or something..u don't want to drop a bolt or screw in there, then you're gonna have 10000000000x of a headache
That's one dirty manifold
09-18-2005, 09:24 AM
#16
I would highly recommend taking off the IACV and TB and clean out those air passages, I mean you might as well since your this far. Look at this picture! There's gonna be gunk everywhere! Btw, I forgot to put that little gasket back on(in the picture).
Originally Posted by filter27e
09-18-2005, 12:10 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Ka$hThaRipper
i've taken the upper intake manifold off probably a dozen times now
a few tips:
you don't have to fool around with the coolant lines that much..you can take out the 4 bolts holding in the throttle body (cuz that's where teh coolant lines are) and just pull the whole TB/hose assembly into the direction of the battery...this way you won't have to pull off any hoses and worry about green coolant getting sprayed everywhere
however, you will have to remove the coolant hose behind the intake manifold, i think it's located under the EGR
i dont remember if the Haynes manual makes you remove the IACV assembly, but you don't need to at all. of course, it'll allow easier access to reach the EGR Guide tube connection into the upper intake manifold, but you can easily get around it..just feel around for the two EGR bolts
also..your rear valve cover looks like it is leaking..you may need a new gasket (this is not difficult at all)..remove the 10 bolts for the rear valve cover, take off the RVC, take off the gasket, CLEAN off old sealant and dirt inside the RVC groove and also the flange that it sits on..apply new sealant (i cannot stress this enough!) inbetween the new gasket and RVC groove and also inbetween the new gasket and flange..and put all 10 bolts back on...and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!! i broke 8 bolts once by overtightening, they all sheared off and i had to drill into the engine bay and extract them out (watta headache)..they only require like 5 ft-lb of torque which is nothing in the grand scheme of things
and one more thing...whenever you're working with the ports open like that into the engine, make sure u cover that up with a towel or something..u don't want to drop a bolt or screw in there, then you're gonna have 10000000000x of a headache
a few tips:
you don't have to fool around with the coolant lines that much..you can take out the 4 bolts holding in the throttle body (cuz that's where teh coolant lines are) and just pull the whole TB/hose assembly into the direction of the battery...this way you won't have to pull off any hoses and worry about green coolant getting sprayed everywhere
however, you will have to remove the coolant hose behind the intake manifold, i think it's located under the EGR
i dont remember if the Haynes manual makes you remove the IACV assembly, but you don't need to at all. of course, it'll allow easier access to reach the EGR Guide tube connection into the upper intake manifold, but you can easily get around it..just feel around for the two EGR bolts
also..your rear valve cover looks like it is leaking..you may need a new gasket (this is not difficult at all)..remove the 10 bolts for the rear valve cover, take off the RVC, take off the gasket, CLEAN off old sealant and dirt inside the RVC groove and also the flange that it sits on..apply new sealant (i cannot stress this enough!) inbetween the new gasket and RVC groove and also inbetween the new gasket and flange..and put all 10 bolts back on...and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!! i broke 8 bolts once by overtightening, they all sheared off and i had to drill into the engine bay and extract them out (watta headache)..they only require like 5 ft-lb of torque which is nothing in the grand scheme of things
and one more thing...whenever you're working with the ports open like that into the engine, make sure u cover that up with a towel or something..u don't want to drop a bolt or screw in there, then you're gonna have 10000000000x of a headache
my biggest fear is getting something in the engine where it shouldn't be. Also, I'm worried about putting everything back together again. I plan on taking a digital camera pic after a few un-bolts or un-plugs just as reference.
09-18-2005, 12:16 PM
#18
You should probably bypass connecting the rear coolant hose to the manifold. That's the one thing that kills the most time. The next time my manifold comes off, that's what is going to happen.
09-18-2005, 12:20 PM
#19
Originally Posted by deezo
You should probably bypass connecting the rear coolant hose to the manifold. That's the one thing that kills the most time. The next time my manifold comes off, that's what is going to happen.
BUT - whats the point of that pass through the manifold anyway? Is it just to keep the EGR port hot to minimize build-up?
I've found that some 45 degree-bent long-reach pliers make those hoses much more accessible and easier to undo. I also end up undoing one host on the TB instead of the plenum and the other on the hard-tube instead of the plenum. The hoses took me 10 mins last time I did it, as opposed to 1 hour the first time
09-18-2005, 01:00 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
test with vacuum gauge on EGR vacuum line and multimeter on wires to verify that it's getting proper pulses from ECU..
09-18-2005, 01:18 PM
#21
Originally Posted by 86maxima96
my biggest fear is getting something in the engine where it shouldn't be. Also, I'm worried about putting everything back together again. I plan on taking a digital camera pic after a few un-bolts or un-plugs just as reference.
I took painters tape/masking tape and labled all the wires and the connectors that they attached to 1/1 2/2 3/3... You get the idea. If you had a big goof up and forgot how to get it back together, I might be able to help since I've done it and I'm local.
09-18-2005, 07:48 PM
#24
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 55
140k, and the gf says the check engine light has been on for 3 years 
I picked up a can of TB cleaner on my way home as well as a K&N filter. Speaking of which, holy **** did you know that wal-mart sells them now? I work there and didn't know that until I went over there to look for TB cleaner, and it's like 6 bucks cheaper than the auto parts stores plus I get a discount.
And I still have a fricken headache... used the whole can and barely got anywhere but I am definately making progress. Going to buy like 5 more cans and next time do it outside! Anybody know of an easier way to do this like just taking off all the hoses and soaking the whole thing in something? Just the overspray on the outside though is starting to make it look like it's brand new... quite handy stuff.
Oh and just for the record I did cover up the ports after taking those pics. I mostly did it so that I wouldn't get too much dirt in there though, if I lost a socket or something I'm sure I could get it out, I have some of those telescoping flexible magnets.
EDIT: Oh and Ka$h meant to say, thanks for the tips and yeah I've known for a while that I needed to replace that gasket but was avoiding it because I would "have to remove the intake manifold and all that crap." Next item on my agenda is the power steering pump which is leaking. It looks like a pain in the ***
I should also mention that it's 140k if you're assuming that the scratches on the gauge cluster and the clear piece of plastic between the 1,000 and 10,000 digits on the odometer missing means nothing. We don't talk about that though because she was absolutely furious when I pointed out that her odometer had been tampered with and she got ripped.
I picked up a can of TB cleaner on my way home as well as a K&N filter. Speaking of which, holy **** did you know that wal-mart sells them now? I work there and didn't know that until I went over there to look for TB cleaner, and it's like 6 bucks cheaper than the auto parts stores plus I get a discount.And I still have a fricken headache... used the whole can and barely got anywhere but I am definately making progress. Going to buy like 5 more cans and next time do it outside! Anybody know of an easier way to do this like just taking off all the hoses and soaking the whole thing in something? Just the overspray on the outside though is starting to make it look like it's brand new... quite handy stuff.
Oh and just for the record I did cover up the ports after taking those pics. I mostly did it so that I wouldn't get too much dirt in there though, if I lost a socket or something I'm sure I could get it out, I have some of those telescoping flexible magnets.
EDIT: Oh and Ka$h meant to say, thanks for the tips and yeah I've known for a while that I needed to replace that gasket but was avoiding it because I would "have to remove the intake manifold and all that crap." Next item on my agenda is the power steering pump which is leaking. It looks like a pain in the ***
I should also mention that it's 140k if you're assuming that the scratches on the gauge cluster and the clear piece of plastic between the 1,000 and 10,000 digits on the odometer missing means nothing. We don't talk about that though because she was absolutely furious when I pointed out that her odometer had been tampered with and she got ripped.
09-18-2005, 08:10 PM
#25
Originally Posted by filter27e
140k, and the gf says the check engine light has been on for 3 years I picked up a can of TB cleaner on my way home as well as a K&N filter. Speaking of which, holy **** did you know that wal-mart sells them now? I work there and didn't know that until I went over there to look for TB cleaner, and it's like 6 bucks cheaper than the auto parts stores plus I get a discount.
And I still have a fricken headache... used the whole can and barely got anywhere but I am definately making progress. Going to buy like 5 more cans and next time do it outside! Anybody know of an easier way to do this like just taking off all the hoses and soaking the whole thing in something? Just the overspray on the outside though is starting to make it look like it's brand new... quite handy stuff.
Oh and just for the record I did cover up the ports after taking those pics. I mostly did it so that I wouldn't get too much dirt in there though, if I lost a socket or something I'm sure I could get it out, I have some of those telescoping flexible magnets.
EDIT: Oh and Ka$h meant to say, thanks for the tips and yeah I've known for a while that I needed to replace that gasket but was avoiding it because I would "have to remove the intake manifold and all that crap." Next item on my agenda is the power steering pump which is leaking. It looks like a pain in the ***
I should also mention that it's 140k if you're assuming that the scratches on the gauge cluster and the clear piece of plastic between the 1,000 and 10,000 digits on the odometer missing means nothing. We don't talk about that though because she was absolutely furious when I pointed out that her odometer had been tampered with and she got ripped.
I picked up a can of TB cleaner on my way home as well as a K&N filter. Speaking of which, holy **** did you know that wal-mart sells them now? I work there and didn't know that until I went over there to look for TB cleaner, and it's like 6 bucks cheaper than the auto parts stores plus I get a discount.And I still have a fricken headache... used the whole can and barely got anywhere but I am definately making progress. Going to buy like 5 more cans and next time do it outside! Anybody know of an easier way to do this like just taking off all the hoses and soaking the whole thing in something? Just the overspray on the outside though is starting to make it look like it's brand new... quite handy stuff.
Oh and just for the record I did cover up the ports after taking those pics. I mostly did it so that I wouldn't get too much dirt in there though, if I lost a socket or something I'm sure I could get it out, I have some of those telescoping flexible magnets.
EDIT: Oh and Ka$h meant to say, thanks for the tips and yeah I've known for a while that I needed to replace that gasket but was avoiding it because I would "have to remove the intake manifold and all that crap." Next item on my agenda is the power steering pump which is leaking. It looks like a pain in the ***
I should also mention that it's 140k if you're assuming that the scratches on the gauge cluster and the clear piece of plastic between the 1,000 and 10,000 digits on the odometer missing means nothing. We don't talk about that though because she was absolutely furious when I pointed out that her odometer had been tampered with and she got ripped.
09-18-2005, 09:10 PM
#26
i always have trouble with the hose in the yellow box..getting it off the first time was such a b1tch that i never put the clamp back on, and it's still always on tight...i usually use a flathead screwdrive and pry inbetween the hose and metal to get it off
and the hose in the red, i leave that the way u did..i dont bother taking it off the egr, i find it much easier to disconnect the other end going into the TB
09-19-2005, 05:21 AM
#30
Originally Posted by 86maxima96
so what is the best way to clean out an IM?
and will there be a noticeable difference? such as in throttle response or anything?
and will there be a noticeable difference? such as in throttle response or anything?
It didn't happen right away but after about 5 tanks of gas following the cleaning my mileage went up from 22ish to 26ish but I also changed to shell at the same time the increase happend so I don't know.
09-19-2005, 06:23 AM
#31
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 55
Originally Posted by killerVQ30DE
You know of course that you can replace the KS in about 20mins without removing the Intake Manifold...
I did actually try it without removing the throttle body but I just couldn't get my hands in there, much less would I be able to apply any reasonable amount of torque if I did get in there. It was the original KS and even without the IM in there I had to put a bit of force on it to break it loose.
And yeah Ka$h I was using a pair of bent pliers on all of the hoses and some of them were a ***** to get undone, the fuel rail being a good example. I broke the clamp off and still couldn't get it off so I ended up just unscrewing the other end which I think attaches to the FPR and pushed it out of the way. Some of these hoses I was tempted to just cut them off and try my luck finding a new one but I didn't
09-19-2005, 06:37 AM
#32
Originally Posted by Ka$hThaRipper
i always have trouble with the hose in the yellow box..getting it off the first time was such a b1tch that i never put the clamp back on, and it's still always on tight...i usually use a flathead screwdrive and pry inbetween the hose and metal to get it off
and the hose in the red, i leave that the way u did..i dont bother taking it off the egr, i find it much easier to disconnect the other end going into the TB
Get some long reach pliers - you will thank me for it. I picked up straight, 45 degree and 90 degree offset pliers and I know I'll be using them a lot!
09-19-2005, 01:55 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,108
Originally Posted by filter27e
I wouldn't brag about your hands being that small if I were you
I did actually try it without removing the throttle body but I just couldn't get my hands in there, much less would I be able to apply any reasonable amount of torque if I did get in there. It was the original KS and even without the IM in there I had to put a bit of force on it to break it loose.
And yeah Ka$h I was using a pair of bent pliers on all of the hoses and some of them were a ***** to get undone, the fuel rail being a good example. I broke the clamp off and still couldn't get it off so I ended up just unscrewing the other end which I think attaches to the FPR and pushed it out of the way. Some of these hoses I was tempted to just cut them off and try my luck finding a new one but I didn't
I did actually try it without removing the throttle body but I just couldn't get my hands in there, much less would I be able to apply any reasonable amount of torque if I did get in there. It was the original KS and even without the IM in there I had to put a bit of force on it to break it loose.
And yeah Ka$h I was using a pair of bent pliers on all of the hoses and some of them were a ***** to get undone, the fuel rail being a good example. I broke the clamp off and still couldn't get it off so I ended up just unscrewing the other end which I think attaches to the FPR and pushed it out of the way. Some of these hoses I was tempted to just cut them off and try my luck finding a new one but I didn't
right tool for the jobs does wonders.Using these tools didn't even have to stick my hand in the death valley
The extension method is in the 4th Gen Stickies
09-19-2005, 02:26 PM
#34
Originally Posted by filter27e
Oh and does anybody know if a PCV valve is supposed to be covered in oil? When I changed it on my 96 fire I had a couple years ago I remember it was then too.
09-19-2005, 05:29 PM
#37
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 55
Yeah I've heard several people say you can do it that way, but I had a feeling I should go ahead and do it the right way. Now wouldn't I have felt stupid later if I saved myself some time changing the knock sensor and something else failed because of the TB condition 
09-19-2005, 05:33 PM
#38
While you have the manifold off, be sure to clean out the EGR port on the plenum, clean out the EGR guide tube, clean out the IACV, clean out the throttle body, replace any valve cover gaskets or seals that are leaking.
While I had mine off, I also replaced the PCV valve, made sure all the PCV hoses/lines weren't clogged.
I would recommend replacing every gasket you've touched, i.e. plenum, lower intake manifold, EGR guide tube to plenum, throttle body, IACV... they are cheap (relative to the labor you just put in).
While I had mine off, I also replaced the PCV valve, made sure all the PCV hoses/lines weren't clogged.
I would recommend replacing every gasket you've touched, i.e. plenum, lower intake manifold, EGR guide tube to plenum, throttle body, IACV... they are cheap (relative to the labor you just put in).
09-24-2005, 08:08 AM
#39
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 55
I GOT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!
Added a K&N filter while I was at it.
Only real problem I ran into (damnit Ka$h, you jinxed me!) was that hose that connects underneath the EGR hookup (the one in yellow). I think I bent the hardline that it connects to while taking out the manifold, so when I went to put it back in the hardline was right up against where it was supposed to connect to and I already had everything else plugged in, so I had to try and reach back there to bend it back down to make the hose clear and go back on, and I didn't even try to put that little clip back on. I think that line is for coolant? If I see coolant everywhere at some point then I'll check it again.
Started up fairly smooth considering it was sitting for so long and I had relieved the fuel system pressure. Threw like 4 codes when I first started it, boy was I pissed. I think it detected some oddball codes because the engine was making tons of noise from all the oil being settled and just everything. Reset the ECU and it threw two codes, EGR solenoid and evap solenoid. Boy was I pissed, just replaced the damn thing! I start trying to figure out the evap solenoid but haynes manual has like 2 sentences about it, so after much frustration I realized that the EGR harness I hadn't plugged in all the way, and then realized that they were actually the same thing! Sweet. Reset ECU again and took her for a drive.
Not too far from my road you can get on the highway. Now, before I say this I want you guys to all know that this car had ran like crap when I met her, and my 2003 pontiac sunfire would beat it in a straight line. In the past few weeks I fixed her knock sensor, EGR, added a Y-pipe, and a K&N filter. Noticeable mods, but nothing super-duper. So at any rate I take it for a drive and when I get to the highway I decided I'm going to give it all I got, so I floor it on the ramp and damn, I got thrown in my seat. It pulls up to 6kish, and the auto shifts. I feel it pull and around 4k I feel myself getting pushed in my seat again, pretty much until I let off the gas. Now going 70 all in a rather short distance. I umm... cried. Seriously... I guess I was just happy that I was able to just dive into this and aside from this post and my haynes manual I got no assistance. I mean I lowered my last car myself but lets get real, that's like 5-6 bolts per wheel, time consuming but no big deal. First time I've ever done any jobs like this and then to see the car just perform so well. Lol I guess i'm just a dork...
Anyways, I would take pictures but my GF's little sister came home from college for the weekend and wanted to borrow my digital camera, but since I didn't really polish anything It's not really that spectacular. Probably going to spray degreaser on it today and seafoam it. Noticed a little hesitation after it got hot while I was driving in town so seafoam should do the trick.
Added a K&N filter while I was at it.
Only real problem I ran into (damnit Ka$h, you jinxed me!) was that hose that connects underneath the EGR hookup (the one in yellow). I think I bent the hardline that it connects to while taking out the manifold, so when I went to put it back in the hardline was right up against where it was supposed to connect to and I already had everything else plugged in, so I had to try and reach back there to bend it back down to make the hose clear and go back on, and I didn't even try to put that little clip back on. I think that line is for coolant? If I see coolant everywhere at some point then I'll check it again.
Started up fairly smooth considering it was sitting for so long and I had relieved the fuel system pressure. Threw like 4 codes when I first started it, boy was I pissed. I think it detected some oddball codes because the engine was making tons of noise from all the oil being settled and just everything. Reset the ECU and it threw two codes, EGR solenoid and evap solenoid. Boy was I pissed, just replaced the damn thing! I start trying to figure out the evap solenoid but haynes manual has like 2 sentences about it, so after much frustration I realized that the EGR harness I hadn't plugged in all the way, and then realized that they were actually the same thing! Sweet. Reset ECU again and took her for a drive.
Not too far from my road you can get on the highway. Now, before I say this I want you guys to all know that this car had ran like crap when I met her, and my 2003 pontiac sunfire would beat it in a straight line. In the past few weeks I fixed her knock sensor, EGR, added a Y-pipe, and a K&N filter. Noticeable mods, but nothing super-duper. So at any rate I take it for a drive and when I get to the highway I decided I'm going to give it all I got, so I floor it on the ramp and damn, I got thrown in my seat. It pulls up to 6kish, and the auto shifts. I feel it pull and around 4k I feel myself getting pushed in my seat again, pretty much until I let off the gas. Now going 70 all in a rather short distance. I umm... cried. Seriously... I guess I was just happy that I was able to just dive into this and aside from this post and my haynes manual I got no assistance. I mean I lowered my last car myself but lets get real, that's like 5-6 bolts per wheel, time consuming but no big deal. First time I've ever done any jobs like this and then to see the car just perform so well. Lol I guess i'm just a dork...
Anyways, I would take pictures but my GF's little sister came home from college for the weekend and wanted to borrow my digital camera, but since I didn't really polish anything It's not really that spectacular. Probably going to spray degreaser on it today and seafoam it. Noticed a little hesitation after it got hot while I was driving in town so seafoam should do the trick.
09-24-2005, 08:21 AM
#40
Originally Posted by filter27e
I GOT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!
Added a K&N filter while I was at it.
Only real problem I ran into (damnit Ka$h, you jinxed me!) was that hose that connects underneath the EGR hookup (the one in yellow). I think I bent the hardline that it connects to while taking out the manifold, so when I went to put it back in the hardline was right up against where it was supposed to connect to and I already had everything else plugged in, so I had to try and reach back there to bend it back down to make the hose clear and go back on, and I didn't even try to put that little clip back on. I think that line is for coolant? If I see coolant everywhere at some point then I'll check it again.
Added a K&N filter while I was at it.
Only real problem I ran into (damnit Ka$h, you jinxed me!) was that hose that connects underneath the EGR hookup (the one in yellow). I think I bent the hardline that it connects to while taking out the manifold, so when I went to put it back in the hardline was right up against where it was supposed to connect to and I already had everything else plugged in, so I had to try and reach back there to bend it back down to make the hose clear and go back on, and I didn't even try to put that little clip back on. I think that line is for coolant? If I see coolant everywhere at some point then I'll check it again.
Did you try using a pliers?