Just got new brakes and my emergency brake is like super loose. What gives?
09-22-2005, 07:16 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Did you do the work?
The parking brake cables may not have been reconnected to the rear calipers...
The parking brake cables may not have been reconnected to the rear calipers...
09-22-2005, 07:20 PM
#5
Then you need to adjust the cable tension via the adjuster under the center console. If you remove the console, you'll see where the cable attaches to the parking brake lever and a nut at the end of the cable were you can adjust the tension. Be careful not to overtighten - you don't want your rear brakes to drag. (Adjust it so that 7-10 clicks of the parking brake lever is the point of good engagement - car holds on an incline).
09-22-2005, 07:25 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Then you need to adjust the cable tension via the adjuster under the center console. If you remove the console, you'll see where the cable attaches to the parking brake lever and a nut at the end of the cable were you can adjust the tension. Be careful not to overtighten - you don't want your rear brakes to drag. (Adjust it so that 7-10 clicks of the parking brake lever is the point of good engagement - car holds on an incline).
09-22-2005, 07:29 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Minimalmaxima
It would seem to me that with new rotors and new pads that I'd have to pull the lever less.
Does the brake pedal feel nice and firm (during regular braking)?
09-23-2005, 04:56 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by euser985
hey nice g35 with maxima rims
As I say in the little caption above, It's "what I wish I could have." 
But the wheels are actually 350Z wheels. The spokes look a little curved from this angle, well, they are a little. But they're not tapered toward the outer rim of the wheel as they are on the max wheels, which is why I don't like them as much as the 350Z wheels. It other pics I have of that car from the side, you can tell much more easily.
09-28-2005, 12:05 PM
#13
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Something went wrong during the brake work. There is no reason to adjust the emergency brake tensioner. Double check everything first. If you adjust the tensioner to make the problem go away, it only makes thing worse (later).
09-29-2005, 09:21 AM
#16
Your rear brakes were done incorrectly. It's important to fix them soon, or the pads will badly wear at a taper, and the rotor will possibly get scored.
Remove the rear pads, and check them. The inner pad has a "nub" on the back. The caliper piston has 4 notches on the face, and the "nub" on the pad is supposed to fit in one of those notches. Turn the piston clockwise with the proper tool or needle nose pliers, until the notches form a cross. Should look like + .
Reinstall the pads, making sure that the nub slides into a notch on the piston. This will now allow the piston to sit flush on the pad, and apply even pressure. The e-brake will function normally.
Remove the rear pads, and check them. The inner pad has a "nub" on the back. The caliper piston has 4 notches on the face, and the "nub" on the pad is supposed to fit in one of those notches. Turn the piston clockwise with the proper tool or needle nose pliers, until the notches form a cross. Should look like + .
Reinstall the pads, making sure that the nub slides into a notch on the piston. This will now allow the piston to sit flush on the pad, and apply even pressure. The e-brake will function normally.
09-29-2005, 02:40 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
Your rear brakes were done incorrectly. It's important to fix them soon, or the pads will badly wear at a taper, and the rotor will possibly get scored.
Remove the rear pads, and check them. The inner pad has a "nub" on the back. The caliper piston has 4 notches on the face, and the "nub" on the pad is supposed to fit in one of those notches. Turn the piston clockwise with the proper tool or needle nose pliers, until the notches form a cross. Should look like + .
Reinstall the pads, making sure that the nub slides into a notch on the piston. This will now allow the piston to sit flush on the pad, and apply even pressure. The e-brake will function normally.
Remove the rear pads, and check them. The inner pad has a "nub" on the back. The caliper piston has 4 notches on the face, and the "nub" on the pad is supposed to fit in one of those notches. Turn the piston clockwise with the proper tool or needle nose pliers, until the notches form a cross. Should look like + .
Reinstall the pads, making sure that the nub slides into a notch on the piston. This will now allow the piston to sit flush on the pad, and apply even pressure. The e-brake will function normally.
looks like i gotta redo that ****
.....
09-29-2005, 03:25 PM
#19
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The peg on the back of the rear inner pad goes into the groove on the piston. But if your parking brake is loose just give it a few pulls. It should tighten up.
Move forward and pull the lever. Then put it in reverse and pull the lever. This maneuver should adjust your rear piston.
Move forward and pull the lever. Then put it in reverse and pull the lever. This maneuver should adjust your rear piston.
09-29-2005, 04:14 PM
#20
Originally Posted by PAREDLINE
The peg on the back of the rear inner pad goes into the groove on the piston. But if your parking brake is loose just give it a few pulls. It should tighten up.
Move forward and pull the lever. Then put it in reverse and pull the lever. This maneuver should adjust your rear piston.
Move forward and pull the lever. Then put it in reverse and pull the lever. This maneuver should adjust your rear piston.
If everything is working as designed, a few pulls of the parking brake should have extended the piston sufficiently to make the both the pedal and parking brake firm.
09-29-2005, 06:37 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by njmodi
PAREDLINE - I don't think this is valid for rear disc brakes.... back in the days of some drum systems, yes, but on our cars, no way. What effect will driving have on any part of the hydraulic system such that the piston will get affected? (I am open to being educated about this if I am wrong).
If everything is working as designed, a few pulls of the parking brake should have extended the piston sufficiently to make the both the pedal and parking brake firm.
If everything is working as designed, a few pulls of the parking brake should have extended the piston sufficiently to make the both the pedal and parking brake firm.
09-29-2005, 06:47 PM
#22
Originally Posted by Minimalmaxima
Dang guys you're gonna have me pulling my hair out in a second. My brakes were done by a Nissan tech. He's done this many times before. What could he have done to mess it up? He said something about driving in reverse and pulling the brake and something but I don't remember exactly and what I tried didn't work. I don't know when he'll be able to get to my car again and I'm afraid to tighten the lever when I'm not sure if this will be screwing something else up. Sigh.
Have you checked that all the cable brackets have been secured to the underbody/frame?
Have you checked the pads were correctly lined up with the piston (the nub should be in the groove)?
All these sugestions were made to you .. I don't see any effort from your end to help fix the problem. If you think we're just going to post a magic solution, that requires NO effort from your behalf to fix the problem, well that's not going to happen.
09-30-2005, 02:31 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by njmodi
All these sugestions were made to you .. I don't see any effort from your end to help fix the problem. If you think we're just going to post a magic solution, that requires NO effort from your behalf to fix the problem, well that's not going to happen.
The return springs were on there. What would that have to do with why I can't get tension when I pull up the brake. Anyway, from my unprofessional point of view, I think the problem is what you or somebody else said about that nub not being in the piston. It's the same on both wheels. Argh. The pistons themselves being farther away from the rotors would explain slack in the e-brake line. I can't believe he missed something like this. Well, he's not but 21 so I guess he hadn't worked for Nissan too long and Nissan wanted 800 for the job so I'm still coming out ahead. He'll have to knock some of the fee of the knock sensor replacement I think I'm gonna try to get him to do. What all is there to getting the calipers off? I have been 165 miles away from home 
for like nine months and no longer have access to my "real" dad's 
tools. I'll be doing some bedtime reading in my Haynes manual. (Be so much easier if you just tell me, though.)
09-30-2005, 02:40 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Minimalmaxima
Okay, Dad. The return springs were on there. What would that have to do with why I can't get tension when I pull up the brake. Anyway, from my unprofessional point of view, I think the problem is what you or somebody else said about that nub not being in the piston. It's the same on both wheels. Argh. The pistons themselves being farther away from the rotors would explain slack in the e-brake line. I can't believe he missed something like this. Well, he's not but 21 so I guess he hadn't worked for Nissan too long and Nissan wanted 800 for the job so I'm still coming out ahead. He'll have to knock some of the fee of the knock sensor replacement I think I'm gonna try to get him to do. What all is there to getting the calipers off? I have been 165 miles away from home for like nine months and no longer have access to my "real" dad's tools. I'll be doing some bedtime reading in my Haynes manual. (Be so much easier if you just tell me, though.)
The return springs were on there. What would that have to do with why I can't get tension when I pull up the brake. Anyway, from my unprofessional point of view, I think the problem is what you or somebody else said about that nub not being in the piston. It's the same on both wheels. Argh. The pistons themselves being farther away from the rotors would explain slack in the e-brake line. I can't believe he missed something like this. Well, he's not but 21 so I guess he hadn't worked for Nissan too long and Nissan wanted 800 for the job so I'm still coming out ahead. He'll have to knock some of the fee of the knock sensor replacement I think I'm gonna try to get him to do. What all is there to getting the calipers off? I have been 165 miles away from home for like nine months and no longer have access to my "real" dad's tools. I'll be doing some bedtime reading in my Haynes manual. (Be so much easier if you just tell me, though.) you already! The springs provide tension in both directions - but as long as they are there, it doesn't matter.
The calipers come off with 2 bolts... It shouldn't take too long to get each caliper off and make sure the nub is indeed lined up with the piston groove.
Did you make sure the parking brake cable is secured to the car as it should be?
The point of my post was that we can't help you fix your problem if you don't post back with responses to posts that ask you to check on certain things.
10-05-2005, 11:43 AM
#27
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Do you have shims on your rear pads?
The calipers come off with 2 bolts... It shouldn't take too long to get each caliper off and make sure the nub is indeed lined up with the piston groove.
Did you make sure the parking brake cable is secured to the car as it should be?
Did you make sure the parking brake cable is secured to the car as it should be?
And where do you mean when you say are the cables secured to the car? I see the line from the spring down through the little tube that covers it and it runs the length of the car, basically. I think I'll take another look. But before I take the wheels off again, I'd like to know what you think cause I think I may just put the shim kit on and turn the piston and all that junk the next time I pull the wheels off.
10-18-2005, 04:00 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Have you checked to make sure BOTH cables are attached to calipers (i.e. one to each)?
Have you checked that all the cable brackets have been secured to the underbody/frame?
Have you checked the pads were correctly lined up with the piston (the nub should be in the groove)?
All these sugestions were made to you .. I don't see any effort from your end to help fix the problem. If you think we're just going to post a magic solution, that requires NO effort from your behalf to fix the problem, well that's not going to happen.
Have you checked that all the cable brackets have been secured to the underbody/frame?
Have you checked the pads were correctly lined up with the piston (the nub should be in the groove)?
All these sugestions were made to you .. I don't see any effort from your end to help fix the problem. If you think we're just going to post a magic solution, that requires NO effort from your behalf to fix the problem, well that's not going to happen.
10-18-2005, 06:39 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Minimalmaxima
How do you turn the piston? I started on the right side and I couldn't get that sucker to turn. What is the tool to use to do this? I looked at the pad and it is indeed wearing unevenly already, so whoever told me that would happen was even right-er than I thought they'd be. Must put an end to this.
10-18-2005, 07:16 PM
#30
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Your rear calipers are seizing. That is EXACTLY what happened to me after getting my brakes done. I had to pull the brake ALL the way up to barely feel it grab. After changing calipers, it returned to normal.
10-18-2005, 08:19 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Needle nose plier. Or you can buy a special tool at autozone, etc.
10-19-2005, 08:15 AM
#32
Originally Posted by Minimalmaxima
Okay so I'd open up the pliers and put the tips on two opposite sides of the piston and turn it, right? Any idea how much this tool would be? What is it called? Will the Autozone guys know what I'm talking about if I describe it to them? Is it specific to the automaker or model? I'm not thinking I'll get to this before next week cause I hurt my back picking up the tire/wheel without using my legs. I swear I have aged 30 years in the last five.
10-19-2005, 08:22 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by Stuntin' 101
i dunno if this works with these cars, it use to with the older american ones. try backing up and hitting the brakes hard a few times. on the older ones it use to help adjust them. its worth a shot..
11-07-2005, 06:57 PM
#34
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Brake pedal going farther down that it was. What gives?
Originally Posted by njmodi
Needle nose plier. Or you can buy a special tool at autozone, etc.
11-08-2005, 08:09 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by Minimalmaxima
Geez these brakes are killing me. So I got the tool and the pin that holds the little jig that goes into the piston falls out of the tool! I'm like, son of a biscuit. So I goes and gets one from another Autozone and I get them both turned the right way. (Oh Happy Day) And now I find that I have to press the brake pedal waaaaay farther than I think I should have to in order to slow the car. Fluid level holding steady. What the who-ha is going on here? Also, if it matters, I didn't feel this change immediately after my work, which I completed last Monday. Really I think I started noticing it a day or two ago.
11-08-2005, 08:40 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by MaxKlinger
Did you completely disconnect the caliper? Did you do anything else that might let air into the brake system? You might have to bleed your brakes.
11-10-2005, 03:24 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by mjb95maxse
if only one side isnt connected it will do that
11-10-2005, 08:04 PM
#40
Originally Posted by Minimalmaxima
Okay, I don't like what I've found, with the brake pulled up, only the rear right is holding the car in place. I have the cable adjustment under the center console as tight as it can get and I still get 16 clicks or so. I got the wheel spinning and depressed the brake pedal (with car off) and I had to push it down real good to get it to stop. I'll try it with the car on next time. But this is confusing. The brake cables are attached to the car and the return spring and lever and all that stuff just like they should be. Man what gives.
The ebrake cabling system consists of 3 cables, a single cable from the ebrake to an equalizer, and then a seperate cable from the equalizer to the rear right nd rear left caliper. I am guessing that either the left side cable as become disconnected from the equalizer or the cable itself has broken. That would explain why that caliper is not being engaged when you pull the e-brake and it would also explain why you have so much slack in your ebrake system.