Are there any links out there for doing a coolant change? And is it worth buying the Havoline Extended Life Antifreeze (Dex Cool)? Thanks in advance

 

Go to http://integra.vtec.net/geeser/megamax/60k_service.html and scroll down to Step 5, Radiator Coolant. The block drains are so difficult to reach many owners don't bother with them. You can drain the radiator, refill with plain water, run the engine for a while, and drain again. Repeat this exercise until the drain fluid is clear and clean. Another useful technique is to remove the radiator fill cap, insert a garden hose which is set to deliver a trickle of water, and then start the engine. The overflow will ultimately be clear and clean.

Do not remove the radiator cap unless the engine is cold. Remember that most anti-freeze is toxic to animals. Do not let an animal near the drained fluid. Hose down your work area real well when you are finished.

I haven't tried Dex Cool. My Maxima cooling system is still running on the factory fill. When the time comes to change it I will lean toward the non-toxic formulation.

 

How do you measure fifty/fifty coolant and water. Or do you guys just pour the whole antifreeze in?

 

The cooling system capacity is 9 quarts. After draining the cooling system add 4.5 quarts of anti-freeze and top off with clean water.

 

btw, depending on the climate you live in, more water and less coolant may be to your advantage.

coolant does two things, raise the boiling point slightly, as well as lower the freeze point to prevent the liquid from freezing within the engine during cold temperatures with catastrophic results. since the water expands as it turns into ice, it could potentially crack your engine block or cause other problems.

however, coolant is a poor thermal conductor. it's capacity to store and transfer heat is not as good as water. therefore, if you live in a hot climate, a 65/35 concentration with water being the higher percentage may keep your car running cooler...

-V

 

to answer your question about dex-cool, i wouldn't use it. i drained it out of my '97 SS and put in toyota brand anti-freeze. Toyota brand has an extended drain interval (50,000 miles)and has no silicates, boron or phosphates.i use the toyota stuff in my maxima also. the problem that some of us GM guys are experiencing w/ dex-cool is, it is leaving a "muddy" residue in the cooling system. i just looked in on my friends '98z, and it has the mud. just, IMHO>.>>

 

I use the Toyota Red Coolant as well, but I was told 100k was its service life. This is a Toyota mechanic's statement so I just took it at face value. Who knows if that's accurate. I would say since it specifically says "Extended Interval" on it that 60k is a safe interval.

 

So Im guessing Im going to have to go to a toyota dealer to get they coolant?

 

What about regular Prestone?

 

Yep, and it's $14 or so a gallon! Cost me $42 to put it in 2 cars.......ouch!

It does have a good rep with the Supra guys, etc., so I figure if Supras can beat on their cars with this stuff it should be fine on the Max....

 

Regualar Prestone is fine. It's more of a laziness factor for me. I don't feel like changing coolant every year, which is why I went Toyota Red....and I'll go at least 3 years before changing it. As for Prestone, yearly flushes with it will be just fine.

BTW, make sure you use distilled water while flushing AND re-filling your system. Treat the Max right.

 

the problem w/ many coolants (preston, peak to name 2)are they contain silicates which are abrasive to water pump seals. boron and phosphates will settle out of a coolant over time and reduce the effectiveness of coolant. dex-cool does not contain silicates and contains no, or at lease, reduced amounts of boron and phosphates. but, it has another problem, that when exposed to air and heat, creates this "mud". at least that is GM's explaination. i know on a brand new z-28 w/ less than a 1000 miles on it, it had "mud". toyota anti-freeze contains no silicates, boron, or phosphates and does not turn into mud. when we get into cooling efficiency, water by itself removes heat from metal as good as anything. but, it does not provide proper corrosion resistance which is more of a concern than removing 1 or 2 degrees from your cylinder heads. i'd stick with 50/50 mix...IMHO>>> good luck!!

 

http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Articles/081999_11.html
a short excerpt the whole is well worth
What kinds of coolants are out there? Aside from the limited sale of propylene glycol to environmentalists, it's ethylene glycol... about 93% ethylene glycol, that is, plus water and specific rust and corrosion inhibitors. Here's a rundown:

Conventional American coolant (green or gold) contains silicates (a long-used aluminum corrosion inhibitor) and other inhibitors. Silicates work quickly to protect aluminum, but also are depleted relatively quickly in service. They're also somewhat abrasive (being based on silicon-sand), so they've been implicated in water pump seal wear. Advocates say tests show silicates last longer than was commonly believed. And with the latest seal materials, they actually do a better job of protecting the water pump, because they both resist cavitation erosion-corrosion and "repair" any that occurs.

OAT coolant (orange or pink) contains no silicates and no phosphates. It's a blend of two or more organic acids, a specific class of inhibitors with slow-acting, long-life properties. Texaco's Havoline Dex-Cool (also sold under the Goodwrench label by GM) was the first example. Prestone and Peak also have introduced OAT coolants that are chemically compatible with Dex-Cool.

Conventional Japanese coolant (green or red) contains no silicates, but has a heavy dose of phosphates and other inhibitors, including a modest amount of one or two organic acids.

Conventional European coolant (blue or yellow) contains a low dose of silicates and no phosphates, but does include other inhibitors, including one organic acid.

Hybrid European coolant (blue or green) is similar to conventional European, but with a much greater dose of organic acids. It's a balanced formula designed to have the silicates provide the primary protection for the aluminum, then allow the organic acids to provide long-term protection.

Hybrid American coolant (green or orange) contains a moderate dose of silicates, plus a blend of organic acids

 

brubenstein, excellent stuff here!!

 

Thanks for the info and the link... very informative!

Now time to drain that MUD outta my Ranger and Miata...

-V