I just finished replacing my right rear caliper and would like to bleed my lines. Does anyone know the correct pattern for bleeding the lines on a 4th gen? It goes something like farthest to closest to master cylinder, but I cannnot remember correctly.

 

"It is recommended to start with the right rear wheel, then proceed to the left front, left rear and then right front wheels, in that order." from https://maxima.org/modules.php?name=SSB

 

There is no defined order. Just bleed the system throughly using the correct bleeding technique.

You only need to bleed the R.R. Caliper being that's all that was opened.
Bleeding the left side wount hurt and will get some nice clean fluid back there.
The left and right sides will bleed the front and rear side of the master cylinder as well.

 

Well I had my father pump the brakes about 5 times and then decided to close the bleeder valve with the brake engaged fully. Now on a test run the pedal travels a lot farther before the brake engages...could this be a sign of air in the lines? I checked for leaks and there did not appear to be any, indicating to me that there was no opening in the system...

 

Haynes manuals says:

Right Rear first
Left Front second
Left Rear Third
Right Front fourth

Also to bleed the line you need to have somone in the car while you open the bleeder. After its open have them depress the pedal to the ground. Wait like 5 seconds then close the bleeder. Have them release the brake after its closed. Repeat, repeat, repeat...................

 

Or buy speedbleeders...open them up and pump away then close

 

Don't depress the pedal to the floor. I always put a thick book in between so the pedal stops a few inches from the floor.

 

There is a pattern if you have ABS. Other than that I don't think there is a particular order.

 

Why would there, or why wouldn't there be a specific pattern?
Jae

 

The logic is that you start bleeding the farthest from the master cylinder, usually the right rear. then many cars are a left rear, front right and then closest being front left.

 

The generic way to bleed brakes is to do the wheels that are furthest away from the master cylinder.

If I remember, it goes (Right Rear) then (Left Rear) then (Right Front) then (Left Front)

But the bleeding pattern also changes depending on what car you have, like some go both front wheels first then the last two, and various alternations.

But the generic way I have learned it was to start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder.

And to bleed them, you have several methods. You can let gravity do the work which takes a while, you can have a buddy step on the brakes then HOLD IT without lifting up at all when you open the valve and close it, and repeat. Or you can get a Vacula which sucks it out for you.

 

The Nissan FSM for 1997 and 1998 both say "Bleed air in the following order:
Right rear brake, Left front brake, Left rear brake, Right front brake." which is an X pattern. Dubbya (see post #5) quoted his Haynes manual and it is the same as the Nissan manual.

 

Da** noob. you just bumped a 6 year old thread.

 

 

yet he joined in 03

 

Do the wheels need to be removed to gain access to the caliper bleeder valve?

And how stiff should the pedal feel after the bleeding?

Will the brakes grab sooner when the pedal is depressed?

 

Hope this helps.

 

i thought so man...im gonna bleed them. Im pretty sure its original brake fluid in there.

 

I had the cylinder pop out of the right rear ( while apart -duh-) and am running really soft on brakes having not bled anything, can i just bleed and pump on the right rear or does each caliper need to be bled? No others were touched so far. Also, what is the main axle nut size re changing rotors? Thanks.

 

Depends on how much fluid out/air in. At a miniimum plan to bleed both rear calipers; if that doesn't firm up the pedal you will have to do the fornts also. And you don't need to remove "main axle nuts" to replace brake rotors. Take off the brake caliper brackets and the rotors come right off.

 

You don't even need to remove the calipers.

I've done this with the wheels still on the car.

 

I changed out my right rear caliper and lost a fair amount of fluid not paying attention. Once installed ( used caliper ), with the engine running, I stuck a length of light pipe between the seat front and the brake pedal and pressed in a bit with the seat forward adjustment to about 3/4 brake. Then, I quickly opened and closed the rr bleeder valve, the pipe fell to the floor and I repeated this once again before test driving. That did it, a one man, one caliper bleed, no problem brake bleed, full braking restored. I may double check the left rear some other day using the same method, but as it stands now, it isn't really necessary. (The master cylinder was down a 1/2, so it pays to pay attention once you open the hose line.)