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Clear Coat Rotors

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Old 10-10-2005, 07:20 AM
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Clear Coat Rotors

Gents,
Just put on new rims and tires. The budget is shot pretty good and I would like to dress up the calibers and rotors. Has anyone ever clear coated new stock cast iron rotors? If so how has it held up. The plan is to by new rotors at $28 each, clean them up real good and clear coat with that high heat stuff.
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Old 10-10-2005, 07:30 AM
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High heat clear coat on the rotors would work for keeping the hub and edge areas like new. Of course the friction area will still rust in the rain.
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:19 AM
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But the rust on the friction area will still come right off as usual once you drive the car, so therefore it should't be an issue. Instead of clear coating I'm actually taping off the friction section on my rotors and painting them with black engine enamel. The inside of my rims are black while the face is polished so having the rotors painted black minus the friction surface looks sweeeeet and it prevents corrosion which is one of my biggest enemies ever.
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:32 AM
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u can get them ZINC coated...but thats about the only kind of coating i would put on a surface that makes my car stop
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:43 AM
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^^^yeah, I was questioning the clearcoat myself. Even if it didn't effect stopping power, cuz it would immeadiately get worn off, what good would it do? I have seen some ebay auctions where they offer zinc coating. I would opt for that also.
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:46 AM
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Zinc coating also wears right off the friction areas.
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Old 10-10-2005, 11:11 AM
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oh really? I thought it was more substantial than that. Then what's the point?
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Old 10-10-2005, 11:44 AM
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zinc coating was only meant to prevent rust on the hub, and the outter edges, the surface are will never be protected unless someone can figure a way to use non friction based braking lol. isnt there some kinda spray can that can do zinc coating, that would be awsome...what exactly is the process of zinc coating?
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Old 10-10-2005, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Magikone69
zinc coating was only meant to prevent rust on the hub, and the outter edges, the surface are will never be protected unless someone can figure a way to use non friction based braking lol. isnt there some kinda spray can that can do zinc coating, that would be awsome...what exactly is the process of zinc coating?
i think its similar to powder coating....the electrons come together and stuff...

you know...chemistry lol
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Old 10-10-2005, 11:57 AM
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well the zinc coating will go away after a couple months, on where the pad rubs.

just tape it up and get some high heat paint
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Old 10-10-2005, 12:16 PM
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Zinc coating or any other coating will still protect the primary areas of corrosion (i.e. where the brake pad DOESN'T touch the rotor). These are the areas where you'll see corrosion because they remain undisturbed. Your brake pad never touches the inner part of the rotor, therefore a ring of brake dust/rust will form there unless it's protected. Zinc coating will not wear off this area since there is no friction applied there, nor will any other coating resistant to high temperatures wear off either. I just painted mine with black engine enamel and they look awesome
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Old 10-10-2005, 12:35 PM
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you can find zinc in a spray can at most marine supply stores. it's used on many boat parts because of it's corrsion resistance. i woulnt suggest painting the braking surface with any thing !!!!! nothing will hold up on that area and it will just burn off.
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Old 10-10-2005, 12:44 PM
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i had the stillen x-drilled rotors on my old max....the only time they rusted was when i sold it to my brother and the car sat for 3 months.....on both the friction surface and hub......but now i can how u just want the rotor hat painted...mine look nasty too cause i have open spoke wheels and they are rusty
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Old 10-10-2005, 01:00 PM
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I didn't paint the braking surface (I wouldn't recommend that either). I taped off the braking surface and only painted the areas that the brake pads don't touch (therefore not braking surface). High temp paint rated at 1,200 degrees isn't going to burn off from the heat. Friction yes, but if it's not on the braking surface then friction isn't the issue, only heat. After a very spirited run the paint I applied was still completely flawless. I will be reporting back after a month or two as to how it's holding up
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Old 10-10-2005, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
......but now i can how u just want the rotor hat painted...
.....lol...just kiddin
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Old 10-10-2005, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by THEJEFFERATOR
you can find zinc in a spray can at most marine supply stores. it's used on many boat parts because of it's corrsion resistance. i woulnt suggest painting the braking surface with any thing !!!!! nothing will hold up on that area and it will just burn off.

i gotta look into that, theres all kinds of stuff id like to keep un rusted an if i can find a silver zinc can o spray that would be awsome.

like 96blackmaxSE said, i figured it was like powdercoating, where it required a special processing but if i can get it in a can ill do it, this would be great for my weight set, keep those weights un rusted.
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Old 10-10-2005, 03:44 PM
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be carefull what you paint with zinc because i think it puts out some kind of "electromagnetic charge" which is why it is so resiliant and used in marine applications such as bottom paint, plates on outdrives, steel on bridges, etc. it is sometimes refered to as anti-fouling paint and avail. in some colors. you could also try welding supply stores and they also carry galvanized coatings in spray cans.
theres also a company in nj that sells really good , strong coatings called por-15. http://aolsearch.aol.com/aol/redir?s...F&title=POR-15
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:13 PM
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A plated rotor is the only way to go.
Paint WILL wear away, electronic plating doesn't.
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:57 PM
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if you want to paint you calipers, and the parts of the rotors the brake pads dont touch, why is everyone taping it off?? i serisouly dont understand why you guys bother doing this.. i painted all mine black with caliper paint from pep-boys. when i did mine, i sprayed EVERYTHING.. the entire caliper, and the entire rotor. i let it dry for a few minutes, and put my wheel back on.. drive around the block twice, and the pads will wear off the dry paint on the braking surface. this way ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING the pads dont touch stays black..

eveyone agrees that whatever you put on the rotors would wear off.. why do u insist on wasting time taping them up????!!!!! the things rust in the rain to begin with and you drive on em, to wear it away.. you think the paint is gonna be any different??!!
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuntin' 101
if you want to paint you calipers, and the parts of the rotors the brake pads dont touch, why is everyone taping it off?? i serisouly dont understand why you guys bother doing this.. i painted all mine black with caliper paint from pep-boys. when i did mine, i sprayed EVERYTHING.. the entire caliper, and the entire rotor. i let it dry for a few minutes, and put my wheel back on.. drive around the block twice, and the pads will wear off the dry paint on the braking surface. this way ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING the pads dont touch stays black..

eveyone agrees that whatever you put on the rotors would wear off.. why do u insist on wasting time taping them up????!!!!! the things rust in the rain to begin with and you drive on em, to wear it away.. you think the paint is gonna be any different??!!

my concern would just be the pads, would the paint bake onto the pads as the press the rotor or would it just disperse immediately. i wouldnt want to do anything which fawks up my pads.
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:23 PM
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your pads wear.. thats why you have to replace them.. also.. brake pads are made out of very dense materials.. so you have a very dense object rubbing against a peice of metal with a thin layer of paint.. the paint just gets scraped off. the front seriously come off in less than a mile. the backs take a little longer cause not too much pressure gets put on them.. ive painted mine numerous times like this and ive never had any kind of issues. the only outcome is a very neat and clean looking rotor.
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Old 10-10-2005, 10:44 PM
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I didn't tape mine off inch per inch. I did it so the tape on the rotor almost looked like a decagon, just so the majority of the overspray would stay off the braking surface. Some still did get on the braking surface since I didn't tape off the whole thing, and yes it did wear off right away. The reason I did it this way is because I don't like to smell burning paint while I brake, and taping it off in this manner only took an extra 2 minutes of my time so it was worth it to me
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Old 10-11-2005, 05:59 AM
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Good information guys. I've researched standard issue rotors supplied with a zinc, cadmium coating. Doesn't look like much is out there unless you go with the high dollar slotted and drilled. Sending a $28 rotor out for zinc coating doesn't seem too practical. I found a high temp clear coating that requires curing in the oven. Its made by VHT. Does anybody have any experience with this product?
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Old 10-11-2005, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tucker
Good information guys. I've researched standard issue rotors supplied with a zinc, cadmium coating. Doesn't look like much is out there unless you go with the high dollar slotted and drilled. Sending a $28 rotor out for zinc coating doesn't seem too practical. I found a high temp clear coating that requires curing in the oven. Its made by VHT. Does anybody have any experience with this product?
nothing you spray on the braking surface of the rotor is going to stay on there
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Old 10-12-2005, 09:20 AM
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I know nothing will stick to the braking surface. The new ARD rims show a lot of rotor. I think having the outside diameter of the rotor and the hub clear-coated would look cool. Kind of like the stainless steel industrial look. The plan is to clean the rust proofing off the new rotors and clear coat the whole rotor. The break-in will remove the coating immediately on the friction surfaces of the rotors.
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Old 10-12-2005, 12:20 PM
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The last car I did a brake job on (1999 chrysler 300M) I sprayed the rotors with some gray high temp (1200 degree) paint. It immediately got rubbed off the friction surfaces in break-in, but it's kept rust off the rest of the rotors really well. The rotors also don't seize to the hubs like they used to. Next time I do the brakes on the max I'll probably do the same or something similar.
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Old 10-12-2005, 12:38 PM
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Your not suppoesed to put anything besides brake parts cleaner on the srface area of the rotor that comes into contact with the disc pads.
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Old 10-12-2005, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mmsmannyc
Your not suppoesed to put anything besides brake parts cleaner on the srface area of the rotor that comes into contact with the disc pads.
tell that to the VW guy who painted the whole rotor red.
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Old 10-12-2005, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mmsmannyc
Your not suppoesed to put anything besides brake parts cleaner on the srface area of the rotor that comes into contact with the disc pads.
tell me why..

so then explain to me what everyone should do after it rains and theres rust on the rotors...??

the only thing brake cleaner does is remove and grease or oils.. you can use carburator cleaner, vandalism remover, electical parts cleaner......

your rotors are just peices of metal.. its not the friggin discovery space shuttle. dont make a mountain out of a mole hill.
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Stuntin' 101
tell me why..

so then explain to me what everyone should do after it rains and theres rust on the rotors...??

the only thing brake cleaner does is remove and grease or oils.. you can use carburator cleaner, vandalism remover, electical parts cleaner......

your rotors are just peices of metal.. its not the friggin discovery space shuttle. dont make a mountain out of a mole hill.
Ok class, sit down now and listen as to not end up like Billy in the corner of the room. If you clearcoat the contact area of the rotor, the clearcoat will clump up on your pads nd not evenly either. What it first does is prevent the full surface of the brake pad from making contact with the rotor. Then after driving a little while and smelling the burnt clearcoat or seeing light smoke from your wheels you will be stuck with the residue which has now been heated up and whatever didn't burn off is stuck on your pads for about a week, depending on how you drive. I'm not trying to be a smartass, just trying to prevent some inexperienced kid from sliding his car into the back of someone at a stoplight due to "brake failure" .
If you want to prevent rust from the hub area and edge of the rotors, get high heat brake paint and coat the hub area and ends of the rotor. That will do just fine. As for rust on the rotor face after rain i'm sure you see its gone after you drive a mile.
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Old 10-13-2005, 06:11 AM
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Thanks teach. I was painting brake rotors when you were still craping in a diaper. The rotors currently in use were painted black and no care was taken to mask off the friction surface. When mounting the new rims I didn't notice any residue and the wear pattern on the rotors seemed to be normal. I think if the rotors and pads are broken in correctly (the high speed braking procedure) there will be no residue. However, I could be wrong. It is an interesting theory you mention but I don't think it will happen. Have you ever experienced this?
Cheeeez where else can you go and have detailed discusion like this. Tell people outside this forum that you're discussing painted brake rotors on line and they'll think you're nuts! Great feedback Gents.
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