Hey all, very new to this board, but unfortunately, I don't have a Maxima. I've actually got a Frontier, instead, and linger around those boards.

Anyway, my boss has a 96 Infiniti I30, and if I remember correctly, it's got the same 3.5L engine that the Maxima does. Apparently, his car's been having problems with starting up. The engine cranks, but doesn't fire up. At first, I figured a bad connection with the battery, so I tightened it a bit, and it started up fine. But, that was several weeks ago.

The problem only started to reappear last weekend, when he couldn't start it at all, but it was cranking. He took it to a little shop for servicing, and unfortunately, all the stuff the his mechanic described to him, doesn't sound logical, especially for a Nissan, but I spend more time thinking about the KA24DE and the VG33E so I'm not much help there.

Basically, his mechanic mentioned a few things. One, is a cam sensor. The mechanic said that if this sensor detects that the cam is not in the right place, then the computer won't send fuel to the cylinders. He also said the sensor may be damaged by heat, which I immediately thought was crap. I mean, if it's a cam sensor, it's probably pretty close to the engine, which is a lot hotter than our 100 degree temps here in AZ. The mechanic's input sounds like crap to me, since I've never heard of that problem, especially in Nissan engines. Even then, assuming the cam did get out of synch (which just doesn't seem feasible, gear-driven, unless a tooth was shot), ideally, one cylinder head would be aligned properly at one point. I've heard and seen the problem on a Yamaha bike, which had an out of synch carb, but it even started fine. Of course, the Maxima is EFI.

The mechanic did replace the battery, and also the cables per my boss' request. Does this problem sound familiar with the Maximas? I honestly think that the mechanic is BSing info, and again, I'm not familiar with the Maxima's engine at all.

Anyway, sorry about the length of the post. Thanks in advance for any info, and mahalo from the Nissan Frontier boards.

Enjoy the ride.

Pat

 

it just happened out of nowhere. i reconnected the terminals after extensively cleaning the posts. Then a few weeks later it happened again. same deal just cleaned posts and put battery back in. fixed the problem again great. My mechanic said it was probably corroding over and over again because the battery had a leak. If the new battery doesnt fix his problem then i got no ideas, well theres my experience.

 

It is the same engine, but it is a 3.0 liter engine. The Nissan designation is VQ30DE. For nice tabulation of Nissan engines, go to http://freshalloy.com/ then click on the Search button, then click on the the Engine Catalog button.

If the engine cranked, that was evidence of a good battery cable connection. An improvement obtained by cleaning and/or tightening the battery cable connection may have been coincidence, or may indicate a corrosion problem with the two smaller wires which connect to the positive battery cable clamp. Bending, wiggling, and jiggling them may have improved a damaged conductor or connector.

All the items cited by the mechanic are potential trouble sites. However, they are all electronic and their operation is monitored by the Engine Control Module (the computer). If they were defective you should have had the Check Engine Light on the dashboard. In the absence of the CEL, the Spotlight of Suspicion falls on the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor and the fuel system. I suggest that he ...
- check the ECTS and replace if necessary
- replace the fuel filter
- make a fuel pressure test
... in that order.

 

The fuel injected engine has an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. This sensor sends a signal to the Engine Control Module (the computer). When the ECTS sends a "cold engine" signal the ECM responds by instructing the fuel injectors to deliver a rich mixture. The rich mixture helps a cold engine to start and run smoothly during the warm-up period. This is similar to the operation of the choke on a carbureted engine.

There are other problems which cause starting problems, but the ECTS is the first thing to check. This can be done with an ohmmeter.

On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that vicinity. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is adjacent to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.

With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, and run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading. These are the specs:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.)

The ECTS is a relatively inexpensive sensor and something the home mechanic can replace without special tools.

 

Replacing the fuel filter is something which may be done by the home mechanic.
It is somewhat more difficult to reach if your Maxima is equipped with ABS.
It does not require any special tools. It does require manual dexterity and patience.

See http://integra.vtec.net/geeser/mega...0k_service.html
and scroll down to Step 3, Fuel Filter.

Go to Steve Cutchen's excellent MaxFAQ page:
http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/
Click on SUBTOPICS below Maintenance.
Click on Changing the Fuel Filter

 

This is a standard diagnostic test. You will find instructions and a diagram or picture in the Chilton repair manual(page 5-3) and the Haynes repair manual(page 4-3,4).

Bleed the fuel rail pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse and making several attempts to start the engine (it won't start). Install a T-fitting with a pressure gauge in the flexible rubber fuel line just downstream of the fuel filter. Install the fuel pump fuse. Start the engine. You should see the pressure maintain a stable 34 psi. After turning the engine off the fuel system should hold pressure for a long time, 24 hours or longer. If the residual pressure bleeds off in only one or two hours that is a sign of a problem... bad fuel pump check valve, injectors with an internal leak, bad fuel pressure regulator, or an external fuel leak.