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My 2001 maxima was running fine (sort off) until it would not start this morning.
The last two weeks I have seen gas mileage down about 15% and a little hesitency on inital acceleration.
This morning would not start and I opened the hood to inspect. There is no indication of burning but a small pizza size chunk of the hood insulation had completely detached and was sitting on my engine block.
I checked wiring and noticed a cracked cover which contained a pink and blue wire. I have inserted the pic. Anyone know what these wires are?
So, what should I be checking and fixing in order to get this car running again. It cranks it just wont start.
What do these pink and blue wires do? The blue one is separated and looks like it was lunch for a squirrel.
Good to know because I will now fix it with a marrette. I assume that is good enough? I am calling a home visit mechanic who will take codes.
This car is old but I am really fond of it. I am thinking of restoring it.
Being under the hood and exposed to water and oil, the wires should be soldered. Anything else will slowly corrode until the corrosion stops the electricity from getting through.
If the NATS is preventing the engine from starting, the red led in with the clock will be on when you try to start the car.
But those wires you did the photo of... Rear speakers??? Really??? You need to share whatever the hell you're on.
Those wires are for the ABS sensor on the right front wheel. You should have the SES or ABS light (or both) on in the dash.
Do you know someone who had an OBD code reader that could read the trouble codes on you car?
Hello Dennis, I hired a come to your house mechanic to check out the cranks but will not start issue.
We have no spark.
WE checked all the fuses and decided to replace cam sensor and crank sensor but it still will not start. The light for the anti theft system stays OFF while trying to start up the car.
These are the codes we are getting
PO180
PO335
PO445
PO464
Mechanic thinks this is leading to the anti theft system but the light does not stay while the key is being used to try and start the car.
car is 2001 maxima gls with 180 k kilometers. Automatic, only thing wrong with car before the break down was less then usual gas mileage.
You do not have a problem with the anti-theft system.
definitions for your trouble codes are:
P0180 - fuel tank temperature sensor
P0335 - crankshaft position sensor (POS)
P0445 - EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve
P0465 - fuel level sensor circuit
The P0335 trouble code is what is preventing the car from starting. The crankshaft position sensor (POS) monitors the teeth on the flywheel. This signal is used to determine when to fire the spark plugs. You will have to replace this sensor. This sensor is one of several parts that you should buy from the Nissan dealer. The sensors from the auto parts stores do not seem to work properly.
P0180 and P0465 codes are both problems with the fuel tank sending unit that is inside the gas tank. Either you need a new fuel tank sending unit or you have a damaged wire harness that goes to it. Does the fuel gauge in the dash work?
The P0445 trouble code for the EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve. The EVAP canister is located behind the left rear wheel. The solenoid gets corroded and the valve inside it does not move. You will have to replace it.
The P0335 code is the only problem that is preventing the car from starting. The other 3 codes will allow you to start and drive the car.
Do you think the cam sensor is ok and it is only the crank sensor that needs replacing?
I ask because these electronic parts are sold on a non refundable basis.
What is a fair deal to reach with the mechanic and the part seller?
Mechanic is fine and I want to continue hiring him. He never charged for his time but I did have to pay $120 for each of these sensors. Is it the part seller that should have known their non refundable part was never going to work?
Semi expensive mistake for me and I want to get it fixed. Just bite the bullet, or do I have a remedy?
The P0335 code is specific to the crankshaft sensor. The camshaft sensor has a different code.
I don't know what kind of a deal you think you should get with the mechanic and the parts dealer. They are separate, independent businesses.
As for the electrical parts being non returnable, that is the way the industry works. They have operated that way for so many years, I guess they think everybody knows that. It is unfortunate that it was not pointed out to you. But it is what is it is. Even knowing that an electrical part is not returnable, I bet that everyone here on Maxima.org has bought a part that did not fix the problem. More than once. Sometimes you have to take a guess at what might fix the car and hope you are right. But if you have not opened the package, usually you can return an electrical part.
Many people want to to save money by fixing their car themselves compared to taking the car to a mechanic. You are gambling that you can correctly diagnose the problem and buy the correct part and install it. If you are not an expert with years of experience and thousands of dollars in tools, you could make a mistake. If you don't like the idea of buying the wrong part, pay the extra money and take your car to a mechanic that will guarantee the repair.
I just talked to my mechanic and this is what we have as of now.
"At the moment we have no power or reference going to the sensor all fuses and relays appear to be good. Everyone says use dealer parts. I would normally agree but when it comes to a vehicle this old I am not as fussy. There is also no power or reference now to the cam sensor so something is preventing it. The harness is damaged somewhere."
" The parts I used were from Intermotor and I have never had a problem with them before."
So the parts might good but there is a harness issue? Does that make sense?
The crankshaft sensor and both camshaft sensors have 3 wires on them. They all have a black wire that is chassis ground. They all have a red with green stripe wire that is 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the ON position. The 3rd wire is a different color on each sensor, white on the crankshaft sensor, yellow on the bank 1 camshaft sensor and red on the bank 2 camshaft sensor. This 3rd wire is the signal going back to the ECU (the car's computer).
If you don't have 12 volts on the red with green stripe wire when the ignition switch is in the ON position, then there could be a fuse problem, or a relay problem or a wiring problem.
The fuse that supplies power to these sensors is # 59, located under the hood between the battery and the fender. The cover over the fuses has the label "ENG CONT 2". Either replace the fuse or check it with an ohmmeter, don't just look at it.
You have a mechanic working on your car that you said you believe in. Put your faith in him and let him diagnose your car. Stop second guessing him and let him do the job you hired him to do.
Anyone ever have to change this hidden second crank sensor? Is it simple once the car is jacked up or a nightmare? What is the process if any in testing the harness to see that it is not causing the problem?
08-23-2015, 01:54 PM
