Headlights dim when I press brake, Battery or alternator?
#1
Headlights dim when I press brake, Battery or alternator?
It's been getting worse, with just yesterday my stereo cutting off on me. The interior lights also dim when I hit the brakes.
I went to Advanced Auto Parts and had them wheel out that test cart to my car. They said they couldn't find any problems, but the problems start to occur after I've had the headlights on for at least an hour. The battery is a "silver" grade model from AAP, it's only about a year old. If it is the battery I'm thinking I'll try something more well-known like Die Hard/Interstate/Optima
I know I could take it to the mechanic but I don't want to pay that $75+ diagnostic fee unless I have to. Thanks for any help.
I went to Advanced Auto Parts and had them wheel out that test cart to my car. They said they couldn't find any problems, but the problems start to occur after I've had the headlights on for at least an hour. The battery is a "silver" grade model from AAP, it's only about a year old. If it is the battery I'm thinking I'll try something more well-known like Die Hard/Interstate/Optima
I know I could take it to the mechanic but I don't want to pay that $75+ diagnostic fee unless I have to. Thanks for any help.
#2
Originally Posted by THX
It's been getting worse, with just yesterday my stereo cutting off on me. The interior lights also dim when I hit the brakes.
I went to Advanced Auto Parts and had them wheel out that test cart to my car. They said they couldn't find any problems, but the problems start to occur after I've had the headlights on for at least an hour. The battery is a "silver" grade model from AAP, it's only about a year old. If it is the battery I'm thinking I'll try something more well-known like Die Hard/Interstate/Optima
I know I could take it to the mechanic but I don't want to pay that $75+ diagnostic fee unless I have to. Thanks for any help.
I went to Advanced Auto Parts and had them wheel out that test cart to my car. They said they couldn't find any problems, but the problems start to occur after I've had the headlights on for at least an hour. The battery is a "silver" grade model from AAP, it's only about a year old. If it is the battery I'm thinking I'll try something more well-known like Die Hard/Interstate/Optima
I know I could take it to the mechanic but I don't want to pay that $75+ diagnostic fee unless I have to. Thanks for any help.
#3
Originally Posted by THX
It's been getting worse, with just yesterday my stereo cutting off on me. The interior lights also dim when I hit the brakes.
I went to Advanced Auto Parts and had them wheel out that test cart to my car. They said they couldn't find any problems, but the problems start to occur after I've had the headlights on for at least an hour. The battery is a "silver" grade model from AAP, it's only about a year old. If it is the battery I'm thinking I'll try something more well-known like Die Hard/Interstate/Optima
I know I could take it to the mechanic but I don't want to pay that $75+ diagnostic fee unless I have to. Thanks for any help.
I went to Advanced Auto Parts and had them wheel out that test cart to my car. They said they couldn't find any problems, but the problems start to occur after I've had the headlights on for at least an hour. The battery is a "silver" grade model from AAP, it's only about a year old. If it is the battery I'm thinking I'll try something more well-known like Die Hard/Interstate/Optima
I know I could take it to the mechanic but I don't want to pay that $75+ diagnostic fee unless I have to. Thanks for any help.
I dont think it is the battery since while the car is running it is drawing power from the alternator; also, Im guessing that you have no problem starting in the morning.
just my 2 cents
#5
Originally Posted by cnenov
do you have any high powered speakers or anything other draining a lot of power from the alternator. I believe our alternators are 12v and you would need a 14v alt for any serious electrical power (I dont even know if available)
I dont think it is the battery since while the car is running it is drawing power from the alternator; also, Im guessing that you have no problem starting in the morning.
just my 2 cents
I dont think it is the battery since while the car is running it is drawing power from the alternator; also, Im guessing that you have no problem starting in the morning.
just my 2 cents
all alternators put out 14v when the car is running. That's how your car recharges itself. Its the amount of amps that matter.
THX, if the dimming is really bad, check to see if you have a loose ground somewhere
#8
Originally Posted by cnenov
do you have any high powered speakers or anything other draining a lot of power from the alternator. I believe our alternators are 12v and you would need a 14v alt for any serious electrical power (I dont even know if available)
#10
Originally Posted by cnenov
not a bad idea
you can also check out some grounding kits so you can make sure everything is grounded right. Japanese cars in general have countless grounds
you can also check out some grounding kits so you can make sure everything is grounded right. Japanese cars in general have countless grounds
#12
I had the same problem with mine a few months ago. It was the Battery.I dont care what ANYONE says on here to the contrary, if your battery is bad, you will have the same symptoms you describe. They're exactly like mine.
On a side note though, my alt died a couple months later, but replacing the battery fixed the problem. I have a Optima Red top, so I was lucky it was under warrantee
On a side note though, my alt died a couple months later, but replacing the battery fixed the problem. I have a Optima Red top, so I was lucky it was under warrantee
#18
I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. The panel warning lights would go on at idle, starting with the air bag light. It would go away at cruising speeds. It's not the battery--or wasn't for me. I needed to tighten down the idler pulley on the alternator belt.
Check the belt deflection and see if it's correct. And then get the alternator checked.
Check the belt deflection and see if it's correct. And then get the alternator checked.
#19
Originally Posted by Whitemax
I had the same problem with mine a few months ago. It was the Battery.I dont care what ANYONE says on here to the contrary, if your battery is bad, you will have the same symptoms you describe. They're exactly like mine.
Replaced the Advanced Auto Parts brand battery with a heavy @$$ EverStart MAXX from Walmart. You may snicker at the store but we've tried batteries from them before and Everstart is pretty reliable, only $58 for their top model which includes a 3yr warranty.
Thanks for the help all, glad I got this problem fixed. No more dim lights/stereo cutting off and windows roll up fast again which I vaguely remember happening when I first got the car.
![Wink](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#20
Awsome choice i just got a Everstart MAXX yesterday!! lol i love those batterys and used to work there back in the day and saw that those batterys never ever came back before the warentee was up unless the ALT was dead.
#23
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Alexandria, VA, & Central Jersey
Posts: 2,647
Originally Posted by konak85
Dont mean to be off topic but i got a question. I got a brand new Interstate Marine Battery lying around in my garage. You think it'll work fine in our cars?
#24
Mine does this when i use the windows.......i have 3 amps installed but i also have a capacitor. Doesn't really seem to be a problem for me, i have left my lights on over night atleast 3 times and the car started up with no problems the next day.
#25
Originally Posted by ImmaSquashYou
if you have it laying around, it depends on how long its been laying around. also, you have to read the CCA on it which is the Cold cranking Amps. Also, fitment is an issue. Make sure that it fits. If the CCA is enough n the battery fits, then yes, you can use it on your car
#28
Hmmm, I've always had this on my car-a slight dim then comes right back when I press the brake. I use Interstate Batteries. Just changed last week, still does it. It would seem that from a couple posts here, a grounding kit may help, or is it better to just find the existing grounds and check them?
#33
i looked up the CCA for the fourth gen and i found 356 and five something for the winter package for a 1997. Is this right? What about a 1996?
http://www.lotpro.com/cars/1999/nissan/maxima/options/
http://www.lotpro.com/cars/1999/nissan/maxima/options/
#34
Originally Posted by konak85
i looked up the CCA for the fourth gen and i found 356 and five something for the winter package for a 1997. Is this right? What about a 1996?
http://www.lotpro.com/cars/1999/nissan/maxima/options/
http://www.lotpro.com/cars/1999/nissan/maxima/options/
#35
I have the opportunity to purchase an Optima battery, direct replacement for my car. It's just a regular, not yellow or red top. Don't know the CCA. The price is from NAPA discounted for $104. Should I go for it? I kinda wanted to jury rig a yellow top...
#37
1st off check all the grounding points - that will definitely most likely solve.
A new battery well it will only help temporarily - same as the alternator. If the battery can feed enough to make up/same as the regulator can compensate for the additional load.
And to repeat point #1 have all the grounds checked.
A new battery well it will only help temporarily - same as the alternator. If the battery can feed enough to make up/same as the regulator can compensate for the additional load.
And to repeat point #1 have all the grounds checked.
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