RicoSuave98

iTrader: (2)

so i was under my car last night and noticed that my CV JOINT BOOTS are torn. badly. the is a tear the entire way around the boots and i need to replace them fast. so my questions are- first of all, where do i get replacement cv joint boots? Is there a write up on replacing them? or can anyone tell me exactly what i have to do replace them. it looks like im going to have to take the wheel and entire brake system off, so after that am i going to need a hub puller or what kind of special tools and what else do i need to replace them?

anyone with any info is greatly appreciated

sunten1

There is a write up on how to install the CV joint here

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401

RicoSuave98

iTrader: (2)

thanks. im prob just going to replace the whole thing since i dont know how long its been torn. what is the best/cheapest place to get the replacement/ boot? any recommended brands etc.?

Dave H.

iTrader: (5)

I replaced my CV axles at LesSchwab. They have a good warranty, which i just used. I don't know if there is a LesSchwab in your area.

lilaclucymaxima

iTrader: (16)

I got my driver's side a few months ago from advance auto parts, then my passenger's side went. I would've just replaced both if I could have done it again.

RicoSuave98

iTrader: (2)

thanks again guys. but how do i know if the joint is actually gone? the write up says if there is clicking when you turn, but is there any other signs? my car turns fine and there is no clicking whatsoever. also is this an expensive thing? if its not too much i will probably just replace both anyway like i said, but if its pricey, then i might just look into new boots. anybody with experience got any advice on this?

Dave H.

iTrader: (5)

the only reason i replaced my axles was that it would only cost me like 50 bucks more to replace them. Check the local shops and see what they say, unless you want to do it on your own.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

I am about to do my driver's side, I have a tear in the boot. I don't really have any noises but once that seal is broken I can only imagine the dust/dirt/rocks that get in there so the whole thing must go . .

I got a quote for about 115-120 on the driverside I think a tad more for PS from raxles.com

I will more than likely go the Auto Zone route however so I can get it done this week.

RicoSuave98

iTrader: (2)

damn i was hopin i could knock this in less than $100, but guess i'll have to check auto zone today and see for sure. thanks free- and i love your clear/ orange bumper lights. way to be unique in a sea of look-a-like maximas

MaximaRacer_95

iTrader: (1)

instead of changing the boot you might want to change the whole axle beacuse all that dirt and stuff has entered it...thts wat my mechanic told me to do...

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

I think you should be able to get out around 60-80 after it's all said and done and if you put it in yourself or with a friend or whatever.

Thanks for the compliment, I had them on like that as a temp setup but they really look the best at night when the corner, bumper lense, and foglight are all lit in the light gold/white and my blinkers still flash a dark amber (matching my tails).

To each his own I guess, when I first got the car I was die-hard about throwing the ambers in the trash. The way I have it setup now I think the amber contrasts well with the black while still looking different from stock.

RicoSuave98

iTrader: (2)

well i just got back from auto zone and they got remanufactured whole set ups for $60 each. so im lookin at a bill 30 with taxes so i guess thats pretty good. they wanted like $20 each for the boots--- so screw that

about how long does the whole thing take if im doing both sides?

Julchen

I just went through this two weeks ago, so I feel your pain. If your CV joints are in good shape I would just pull the shaft, clean everything and repack the joints. I say this because you have no idea what you are getting with a rebuilt shaft. Those shafts are used components off of wrecked cars and worn out cars with 275,000 miles on them a junkyards - why would you want to put a part like that on your car? What makes you think the boot on that shaft wasn't torn on the previous car for the past 100k miles? Sure, Autozone might give you a warranty if its bad, but do you want to do this job twice? If your current joints are not making any noise or vibration, just replace the boot and keep the joint. If you want to know what that joint really costs, forget asking Autozone what a "rebuilt" shaft costs, and ask them what a replacement outer CV joint costs. Its a lot! That joint on your car with a ripped boot is a valuable component, so don't just hand it in to Autozone as a core - clean it and repack it yourself. The job is messy and there is more labor involved, which is why mechanics tell everyone to replace the shaft, but that doesn't mean a rebuilt shaft is better than the shaft on your car now.

On the other hand, this is a job that might make sense having a mechanic carry out. You need a 1/2" socket set, a 36mm socket ($18 at NAPA), a torque wrench that can apply 200 ft-lb of torque ($115 at Sears, although you may be able to rent one at Pep Boys), and possibly a special wrench to clamp the boots (which can also be rented at Pep Boys). Air tools help A LOT! As you can see, if you don't have a serious tool collection, it might make sense to take it to your mechanic.

Lastly, before you undo the bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle, mark the relationship between the two with paint or a gouge from a file, etc. The camber and caster are not adjustable on these cars, so disassembling this joint SHOULDN"T mess up your alignment, but I can PROMISE you that it will! There is a little play between those bolts, the holes in the strut, and the holes in the knuckle (maybe only 1/32" or 1/16"), but even that little bit really is enough to through off your aligment. If you mark it before disassembling it, you can put everything back exactly where it was.

Good luck,

Greg

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

good info . .

RicoSuave98

iTrader: (2)

yeah man thanks. gives me a lot to think about. thats kinda what my dad said, why replace something if its not broke. the boots are ripped and winter is on its way so im fixin that, as for the CV joints, i'll wait.

Julchen

I forgot to mention, if you need to replace the outer boot you will need either a slide hammer to pop the joint off the shaft, or a brass hammer or brass drift to drive it off. If you try to drive it off, you'll need a vise in which to clamp the shaft. I was able to pop the joint off the shaft with my slide hammer while I held the shaft at the other end with my feet (I don't ahve a vise). You are in luck if the inner boot it ripped - the inner CV joints comes apart by just tapping it with a hammer and a brass drift. Brass drifts are important for this type of work - they deform when you hit them, sacrificing the [more valuable] part you are hitting.

Greg

RicoSuave98

iTrader: (2)

so i bought the boots with plans of changing the boots and hopefully salvaging what was left of the joints, but i didn't make it. its now almost april and now i have some major clicking when i turn. i have to go and replace the whole set up now- but first how much time do i have? is there a major safety concern in not changing them soon, cuz im really broke and i need a while to get together some dough. thanks guys

oldngivout

iTrader: (8)

I don't see how you think that the alignment will change significantly by disassembling the strut to knuckle mounts. If you will look closely, the holes there are round, not slotted on OEM struts. You are correct, the only alignment adjustment possible on an unmodified Maxima is the toe.

If what you say is true, every Maxima would require that the camber and caster be set at the factory when assembled for the first time. How is it that the alignment just happens to fall into place when assembled initially? If the small amount of play does exist, how does the factory compensate for it? I can assure you that they do not.

The small amount of "play" that you detect in the holes allows the alignment to fall into the acceptable window for these cars. If it doesn't, then there are other issues.

Just bolt it back together and go on.