Screw size to remove rotors
10-24-2005, 02:53 PM
#1
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 284
Screw size to remove rotors
This may be a silly question, but I am going to replace my rear rotors. I know that there is an opening where you can insert a screw, to help separate the rotor from the hub. When i replaced my fronts, I had to use a rubber mallot and smack the heck out of the old rotor, so I am trying to use a less forceful approach for the rears. Thanks for any info..
:
10-27-2005, 10:50 PM
#8
this actually isnt a silly question at all ... I remember when I changed all 4 of my rotors a few months ago and MAANNN were those f&%kers on there good....even with my uncles crazy big hammer, this thing was like like 2 feet long with an enormous end...we pounded for a while and those rotors were like super glued on there....somehow we got them to come off the hub .... but thats a good idea to use those 2 screw holes on the rotors
10-28-2005, 06:15 AM
#9
Yea, this question is actually very helpful...You don't know how annoying it was to have my car on four jack stands only to be stopped because the rotor wouldn't come off, and making me drive to the hardware store...twice. Thankfully, my mom's car was there.
10-28-2005, 06:36 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 474
After the rubber mallet didnt work.. (only a small one) i used a 2X4 and beat the hell out of it... one side came of easier than the other but it was quicker than finding a bolt and trying to thred it on and pull it off..
and no it isnt a silly question... this is what the forum should be about... helping others fix there maximas
and no it isnt a silly question... this is what the forum should be about... helping others fix there maximas
10-29-2005, 06:45 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 64
What is everyone talking about???
I replaced the stock with the Drilled/Slotted Only one of the old ones gave me a hard time, even that one came off with a little bit of mind power. all others came right off. It's just the alignment of the rotor to the studs. Patience. Do it gently.
I replaced the stock with the Drilled/Slotted Only one of the old ones gave me a hard time, even that one came off with a little bit of mind power. all others came right off. It's just the alignment of the rotor to the studs. Patience. Do it gently.
10-29-2005, 06:50 PM
#12
try getting off rotors when you live in the salt belt that is the midwest. It makes quite a difference in terms of how stuck the rotor is especially if you have a manual car that was mostly used on the highway where you change your rotors even less. I had to heat mine up and then beat it with a hammer while having ear protection on for the ringing.
10-29-2005, 07:33 PM
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 284
Thanks for all of the input. I think alot of the guys who read this need to keep in mind the different parts of the country that we live in. Obviously someone in Florida or Arizona isn't going to have the same type of issues with rust and salt as the cars in the northeast and colder regions. I noticed that the majority of people who didn't have issues with their rotors were in warmer climates, which very well would explain why rust isn't as much of an issue. Believe me, I beat the hell out of the rotor for 20 minutes, and hosed it with PB Blaster before it finally gave in and came off. I would hate for someone to go through all of that trouble, and then end up damaging a control arm or end link from all of the beating.
10-30-2005, 12:36 PM
#15
Originally Posted by pmohr
All 4 of my rotors aren't stuck on at all, they slide right off when removing the rear mount for the caliper. AFAIK my car's always been on the east coast.
You guys really don't know how difficult corrosion makes the are of DIY mechanics. I was pounding those rotors as if there was no tomorrow, with nothing to show for it. You put those bolts in, and in 1 minute, the rotor breaks loose, it's awesome. I would much rather thread a bolt, than bang away for longer.
06-08-2006, 03:11 PM
#16
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 284
Hey, I know I posted this like 8 months ago, but like the procrastinator that I am, I waited until there was nothing left of brake pads to do the rears. I bought new rotors, and went to the hardware store to check on the exact size for that screw...It's a Metric 8, and I bought two, at 1 inch in length. Just wanted to put that out there in case any of you are having a hard time with the rotors..I know my New England people can feel my pain...
06-08-2006, 04:00 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,883
Originally Posted by twiggy144
front rotors: M10 x 1.25
rear rotors: M8 x 1.25
rear rotors: M8 x 1.25
06-08-2006, 04:23 PM
#18
In March I changed all 4 rotors and pads, fronts were easy, but when I got to the rear omg I wanted to 
myself, those fu(kers must have been the original rotors!! Any way I used a ruber mallet, soaked them in pb blaster and shocked them with a hammer, and then i did the same thing as Geophrum, Put a 2x4 across them and beat 
them off.
myself, those fu(kers must have been the original rotors!! Any way I used a ruber mallet, soaked them in pb blaster and shocked them with a hammer, and then i did the same thing as Geophrum, Put a 2x4 across them and beat them off.
06-08-2006, 04:49 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Frank Fontaine
Allow me to ask a dumb question since I've never replaced my rotors--does the action of the screw going in simply separate the rotor from hub? How many holes in the rotor? Do you use a drill to drive the screw in? Or do you screw it in, and then grab the screw and pull out (which wouldn't seem to work in my imagination).
06-08-2006, 04:52 PM
#20
Originally Posted by hitman4
What is everyone talking about???
I replaced the stock with the Drilled/Slotted Only one of the old ones gave me a hard time, even that one came off with a little bit of mind power. all others came right off. It's just the alignment of the rotor to the studs. Patience. Do it gently.
I replaced the stock with the Drilled/Slotted Only one of the old ones gave me a hard time, even that one came off with a little bit of mind power. all others came right off. It's just the alignment of the rotor to the studs. Patience. Do it gently.
06-08-2006, 06:13 PM
#21
And since we're mentioning the 2 bolts to separate the hub I'll post the link to my experience with those. "...Do it gently" Yeah right.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469787
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469787
use the universal tool... BFH
06-09-2006, 07:38 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Frank Fontaine
Allow me to ask a dumb question since I've never replaced my rotors--does the action of the screw going in simply separate the rotor from hub? How many holes in the rotor? Do you use a drill to drive the screw in? Or do you screw it in, and then grab the screw and pull out (which wouldn't seem to work in my imagination).
Dave
06-09-2006, 09:17 PM
#25
From my experience on other cars, I'd bolt in both bolts (I don't think you'd get enough torque with screw) till snug. Then take a ratchet and give 1 turn each, and continue doing so. that way, the rotor separates evenly.
Oh, even before starting anything, spray some penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) in the holes first, allowing the oil to creep between rotor and hub.
Jae
Oh, even before starting anything, spray some penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) in the holes first, allowing the oil to creep between rotor and hub.
Jae
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
05' MaximaMan
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
2
10-08-2017 06:36 PM