This may be a silly question, but I am going to replace my rear rotors. I know that there is an opening where you can insert a screw, to help separate the rotor from the hub. When i replaced my fronts, I had to use a rubber mallot and smack the heck out of the old rotor, so I am trying to use a less forceful approach for the rears. Thanks for any info..

 

I'd just pound on them as usual .. works like a charm ... :

 

rubber mallet will work wonders.

 

rubber mallet? i used a metal hammer.

 

front rotors: M10 x 1.25
rear rotors: M8 x 1.25

 

Outstanding. Thanks for the info.

 

Your caliper bolts should fit

 

this actually isnt a silly question at all ... I remember when I changed all 4 of my rotors a few months ago and MAANNN were those f&%kers on there good....even with my uncles crazy big hammer, this thing was like like 2 feet long with an enormous end...we pounded for a while and those rotors were like super glued on there....somehow we got them to come off the hub .... but thats a good idea to use those 2 screw holes on the rotors

 

Yea, this question is actually very helpful...You don't know how annoying it was to have my car on four jack stands only to be stopped because the rotor wouldn't come off, and making me drive to the hardware store...twice. Thankfully, my mom's car was there.

 

After the rubber mallet didnt work.. (only a small one) i used a 2X4 and beat the hell out of it... one side came of easier than the other but it was quicker than finding a bolt and trying to thred it on and pull it off..

and no it isnt a silly question... this is what the forum should be about... helping others fix there maximas

 

What is everyone talking about???
I replaced the stock with the Drilled/Slotted Only one of the old ones gave me a hard time, even that one came off with a little bit of mind power. all others came right off. It's just the alignment of the rotor to the studs. Patience. Do it gently.

 

try getting off rotors when you live in the salt belt that is the midwest. It makes quite a difference in terms of how stuck the rotor is especially if you have a manual car that was mostly used on the highway where you change your rotors even less. I had to heat mine up and then beat it with a hammer while having ear protection on for the ringing.

 

Thanks for all of the input. I think alot of the guys who read this need to keep in mind the different parts of the country that we live in. Obviously someone in Florida or Arizona isn't going to have the same type of issues with rust and salt as the cars in the northeast and colder regions. I noticed that the majority of people who didn't have issues with their rotors were in warmer climates, which very well would explain why rust isn't as much of an issue. Believe me, I beat the hell out of the rotor for 20 minutes, and hosed it with PB Blaster before it finally gave in and came off. I would hate for someone to go through all of that trouble, and then end up damaging a control arm or end link from all of the beating.

 

All 4 of my rotors aren't stuck on at all, they slide right off when removing the rear mount for the caliper. AFAIK my car's always been on the east coast.

 

But you're in TN... You guys really don't know how difficult corrosion makes the are of DIY mechanics. I was pounding those rotors as if there was no tomorrow, with nothing to show for it. You put those bolts in, and in 1 minute, the rotor breaks loose, it's awesome. I would much rather thread a bolt, than bang away for longer.

 

Hey, I know I posted this like 8 months ago, but like the procrastinator that I am, I waited until there was nothing left of brake pads to do the rears. I bought new rotors, and went to the hardware store to check on the exact size for that screw...It's a Metric 8, and I bought two, at 1 inch in length. Just wanted to put that out there in case any of you are having a hard time with the rotors..I know my New England people can feel my pain...

 

Allow me to ask a dumb question since I've never replaced my rotors--does the action of the screw going in simply separate the rotor from hub? How many holes in the rotor? Do you use a drill to drive the screw in? Or do you screw it in, and then grab the screw and pull out (which wouldn't seem to work in my imagination).

 

In March I changed all 4 rotors and pads, fronts were easy, but when I got to the rear omg I wanted to myself, those fu(kers must have been the original rotors!! Any way I used a ruber mallet, soaked them in pb blaster and shocked them with a hammer, and then i did the same thing as Geophrum, Put a 2x4 across them and beat them off.

 

Once the screw is all the way in it presses against the hub and pops the rotor loose. There are 2 screws in each rotor. Just use any wrench that fits the head of the bolt. Unscrew the bolt when finished. This is the best invention since sliced bread!

 

Do it gently? Ha ha! I wish. You are very funny....

 

And since we're mentioning the 2 bolts to separate the hub I'll post the link to my experience with those. "...Do it gently" Yeah right.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469787

 

use the universal tool... BFH

 

Be sure to clean off the surfaces and put a high-pressure high temp grease (like brake grease) between the mating surfaces to prevent the rotor from seizing again.

Jae

 

Yep, like the others said the hole is tapped through the hat of the rotor so that the bolt goes thru and pushes against the hub. There are two holes diametrically opposed. It works fantastically.

Dave

 

From my experience on other cars, I'd bolt in both bolts (I don't think you'd get enough torque with screw) till snug. Then take a ratchet and give 1 turn each, and continue doing so. that way, the rotor separates evenly.

Oh, even before starting anything, spray some penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) in the holes first, allowing the oil to creep between rotor and hub.

Jae