Replaced Alternator; Worked awhile, now battery light on again!!!
#1
Replaced Alternator; Worked awhile, now battery light on again!!!
I just replaced my alternator a week ago when the battery and brake light
came on simultaneously (103k mileage). Things were fine for the past few days, until this morning I started the car and the lights came on again.
I tried to pull the 120 amp battery fuse in the block near the battery, but it
won't come out, as I think I saw another post where this could cause problems. I then banged a connector connected to the positive battery lead
and the two wire connector to the alternator winding, now the lights went off. How do you pull the 120 amp fuse? It doesn't have a press clip, and I pulled with pliers and it wouldn't pull up. Maybe the connections are corroded? Can anyone offer other suggestions on what can cause the battery and brake lights to come on in the alternator circuit, other than a bad alternator???
Thanks
came on simultaneously (103k mileage). Things were fine for the past few days, until this morning I started the car and the lights came on again.
I tried to pull the 120 amp battery fuse in the block near the battery, but it
won't come out, as I think I saw another post where this could cause problems. I then banged a connector connected to the positive battery lead
and the two wire connector to the alternator winding, now the lights went off. How do you pull the 120 amp fuse? It doesn't have a press clip, and I pulled with pliers and it wouldn't pull up. Maybe the connections are corroded? Can anyone offer other suggestions on what can cause the battery and brake lights to come on in the alternator circuit, other than a bad alternator???
Thanks
#3
Got the alternator from AutoZone
It's not the testing I'm worried about. It took gd((*&*&&*()(am
contorsions of my body and days to to get the large bolt next to the ypipe out, not to mention moving the a/c compressor to get the %R$^%&^&*&*&*(&*( thing out and back in.If this is bad, I'm going to pitch the alternator through autozone's plate glass window!!!!!!BTW,
Do you get any sleep monitoring these posts? I truly appreciate your help.
You must be independently wealthy to do all this work!!
contorsions of my body and days to to get the large bolt next to the ypipe out, not to mention moving the a/c compressor to get the %R$^%&^&*&*&*(&*( thing out and back in.If this is bad, I'm going to pitch the alternator through autozone's plate glass window!!!!!!BTW,
Do you get any sleep monitoring these posts? I truly appreciate your help.
You must be independently wealthy to do all this work!!
#5
at your reaction...
Thats the problem with the autozone/etc. alternators. It's really hit or miss (IMHO). Thats why I would recommend an OEM reman for an alty - its just too much work to keep messing around.
And I do get some sleep - I was following a live sport online last night - which is why I was up - much later than I should have been.. only to be awoken bright and early by my little toddler at home
If I was independently wealthy, I wouldn't be driving a 1996 Nissan Maxima with 125k on the clock!
Thats the problem with the autozone/etc. alternators. It's really hit or miss (IMHO). Thats why I would recommend an OEM reman for an alty - its just too much work to keep messing around.
And I do get some sleep - I was following a live sport online last night - which is why I was up - much later than I should have been.. only to be awoken bright and early by my little toddler at home
If I was independently wealthy, I wouldn't be driving a 1996 Nissan Maxima with 125k on the clock!
#6
Fuse screwed down?
Mak,
What do you mean by fuse screwed down?
It appears the fuse has two female spade lug posts internally that mate with
male spade lug posts fixed in the black plastic fuse box housing. There is no release clip on that fuse, so my guess is that the lugs may be corroded or just forcefit stuck together. I fear that if I pry too hard, I'm going to break the fuse or the housing block beneath.
What do you mean by fuse screwed down?
It appears the fuse has two female spade lug posts internally that mate with
male spade lug posts fixed in the black plastic fuse box housing. There is no release clip on that fuse, so my guess is that the lugs may be corroded or just forcefit stuck together. I fear that if I pry too hard, I'm going to break the fuse or the housing block beneath.
#7
DO NOT TRY TO PULL OUT THE BATTERY FUSE LINK!!!!
In order to remove that link the fuse box needs to be removed. Once its out, you open up the bottom of the box and you will see a screw that holds down that fuse link. That fuse is the reason you are having problems. When an alternator goes out that fuse blows and if you do not replace it, your new alternator wont charge your battery.
In order to remove that link the fuse box needs to be removed. Once its out, you open up the bottom of the box and you will see a screw that holds down that fuse link. That fuse is the reason you are having problems. When an alternator goes out that fuse blows and if you do not replace it, your new alternator wont charge your battery.
#8
Thanks for the Info
So nice of Nissan not to put a sticker on the box telling you that
you have to unbolt the fuses.
I have to figure out how to unscrew the box from the fender.
Anyway, the fuse is NOT visibly blown. The battery light went back off,
and all is normal, for now, until the Gremlins that haunt me decide to hit
again.
you have to unbolt the fuses.
I have to figure out how to unscrew the box from the fender.
Anyway, the fuse is NOT visibly blown. The battery light went back off,
and all is normal, for now, until the Gremlins that haunt me decide to hit
again.
#9
Rebuilt Alternators from Autozone are Bad, bAD, and BaD
I went to Autozone today, and asked them to wheel their tester out to the car and test the rebuilt alternator I bought from them. It failed. It showed that it was putting out 60 amps instead of its rated 125 and the voltage was low, though the diodes passed.
The employee and I went back in the store, and they said they would give me another rebuild. I told them to test it in the tester they have in the store. They took the off the shelf alternator, put it in a SPC tester which feeds the field windings and attaches a belt to drive the alternator, as well as having leads for the hot output and ground. They ran the test, and the alternator failed on all three tests, diodes, voltage, and current. Dead as a doornail.
Having now established my great confidence in this automotive parts chain, I talked to the manager who decided he could order me a brand new non-rebuilt alternator and suck up the difference in price for my trouble.
It is supposed to be delivered to the store Monday.
The moral of the story is when you buy a rebuilt alternator, HAVE THE STORE TEST IT IN FRONT OF YOU BEFORE YOU BUY IT AND INSTALL IT IN YOUR CAR!!!
The employee and I went back in the store, and they said they would give me another rebuild. I told them to test it in the tester they have in the store. They took the off the shelf alternator, put it in a SPC tester which feeds the field windings and attaches a belt to drive the alternator, as well as having leads for the hot output and ground. They ran the test, and the alternator failed on all three tests, diodes, voltage, and current. Dead as a doornail.
Having now established my great confidence in this automotive parts chain, I talked to the manager who decided he could order me a brand new non-rebuilt alternator and suck up the difference in price for my trouble.
It is supposed to be delivered to the store Monday.
The moral of the story is when you buy a rebuilt alternator, HAVE THE STORE TEST IT IN FRONT OF YOU BEFORE YOU BUY IT AND INSTALL IT IN YOUR CAR!!!
#10
Originally Posted by charlestek
I went to Autozone today, and asked them to wheel their tester out to the car and test the rebuilt alternator I bought from them. It failed. It showed that it was putting out 60 amps instead of its rated 125 and the voltage was low, though the diodes passed.
The employee and I went back in the store, and they said they would give me another rebuild. I told them to test it in the tester they have in the store. They took the off the shelf alternator, put it in a SPC tester which feeds the field windings and attaches a belt to drive the alternator, as well as having leads for the hot output and ground. They ran the test, and the alternator failed on all three tests, diodes, voltage, and current. Dead as a doornail.
Having now established my great confidence in this automotive parts chain, I talked to the manager who decided he could order me a brand new non-rebuilt alternator and suck up the difference in price for my trouble.
It is supposed to be delivered to the store Monday.
The moral of the story is when you buy a rebuilt alternator, HAVE THE STORE TEST IT IN FRONT OF YOU BEFORE YOU BUY IT AND INSTALL IT IN YOUR CAR!!!
The employee and I went back in the store, and they said they would give me another rebuild. I told them to test it in the tester they have in the store. They took the off the shelf alternator, put it in a SPC tester which feeds the field windings and attaches a belt to drive the alternator, as well as having leads for the hot output and ground. They ran the test, and the alternator failed on all three tests, diodes, voltage, and current. Dead as a doornail.
Having now established my great confidence in this automotive parts chain, I talked to the manager who decided he could order me a brand new non-rebuilt alternator and suck up the difference in price for my trouble.
It is supposed to be delivered to the store Monday.
The moral of the story is when you buy a rebuilt alternator, HAVE THE STORE TEST IT IN FRONT OF YOU BEFORE YOU BUY IT AND INSTALL IT IN YOUR CAR!!!
I'm not laughing at you, but more with you (not that I think you're laughing about this)... but it's funny to me... OEM reman is the way to go buddy... but great idea on having the reman unit tested before you leave the store. That's actually an EXCELLENT idea and should be used for both starters and alternators.
Hope you get your car back on the road soon!
#11
Originally Posted by njmodi
I'm not laughing at you, but more with you (not that I think you're laughing about this)... but it's funny to me... OEM reman is the way to go buddy... but great idea on having the reman unit tested before you leave the store. That's actually an EXCELLENT idea and should be used for both starters and alternators.
Hope you get your car back on the road soon!
#12
Originally Posted by charlestek
It's not the testing I'm worried about. It took gd((*&*&&*()(am
contorsions of my body and days to to get the large bolt next to the ypipe out, not to mention moving the a/c compressor to get the %R$^%&^&*&*&*(&*( thing out and back in.If this is bad, I'm going to pitch the alternator through autozone's plate glass window!!!!!!BTW,
Do you get any sleep monitoring these posts? I truly appreciate your help.
You must be independently wealthy to do all this work!!
contorsions of my body and days to to get the large bolt next to the ypipe out, not to mention moving the a/c compressor to get the %R$^%&^&*&*&*(&*( thing out and back in.If this is bad, I'm going to pitch the alternator through autozone's plate glass window!!!!!!BTW,
Do you get any sleep monitoring these posts? I truly appreciate your help.
You must be independently wealthy to do all this work!!
#13
Creative,
Last time I did take the hoses off the radiator and even tried to move the
radiator and pull the alternator out the top, but it woudn't go that way.
It wouldn't drop out the bottom either.
You must not have A/C! I had to put the A/C compressor on the top of a floor jack
and lower the floor jack and thus lower the compressor so far downward until the compressor was pulling on the metal/rubber hoses that feed it. Only then could I drop the alternator out the bottom.
I'm not using a lift, and as far as the 14mm bolt, I'm 6'4" tall and have extra large hands and extra long arms which are an extra pain in the *ss for maneuvering in
tight spaces. The other problem is that you have to have someone hold the
captive threaded bracket on the other end of the alternator bolt near the belt tensioner idler wheel to get it threaded before you can tighten it.
Last time I did take the hoses off the radiator and even tried to move the
radiator and pull the alternator out the top, but it woudn't go that way.
It wouldn't drop out the bottom either.
You must not have A/C! I had to put the A/C compressor on the top of a floor jack
and lower the floor jack and thus lower the compressor so far downward until the compressor was pulling on the metal/rubber hoses that feed it. Only then could I drop the alternator out the bottom.
I'm not using a lift, and as far as the 14mm bolt, I'm 6'4" tall and have extra large hands and extra long arms which are an extra pain in the *ss for maneuvering in
tight spaces. The other problem is that you have to have someone hold the
captive threaded bracket on the other end of the alternator bolt near the belt tensioner idler wheel to get it threaded before you can tighten it.
#14
Originally Posted by THT
Not necessarily. I had an OEM reman and killed it in six months. Nissan would not honor the one year warranty since I installed it and the service manager was awfully rude to boot (which is why this is my last Nissan). My Autozone reman is holding up great but it's only been three months. At least with this one I know if it dies, I will get a free one from Autozone even though I installed it.
However - if I had been through what you went through, I'd have gone to the local autozone and picked up one from there too
#15
i just finished changing mine as well about an hour ago. i had to take out the fans and drop the A/C compressor to get the altenator out and in. THANK GOD my friend was helping me, the extra set of hands came in handy.
Where is the fuse located that I need to replace so the altenator will start charging the battery again. I'm running an Optima Red Top and their not cheap so if i don't have to get a new battery than I would rather not.
Where is the fuse located that I need to replace so the altenator will start charging the battery again. I'm running an Optima Red Top and their not cheap so if i don't have to get a new battery than I would rather not.
#16
Fuse
Venom,
The fuse will not be blown UNLESS the alternator SHORTED OUT when it went. If the alternator just opened a winding or connection, the fuse will not be damaged. The fuse is in the rectangular black box (Long side pointing toward the toward the firewall and radiator), right next to the battery.
Just lift the cover off and you will see a WHITE FUSE in the middle marked "150". If you can see molten metal splattered inside it then you know it was blown...., otherwise if it looks continuous and you see no evidence of heat or burning in there, it probably is fine.
The fuse will not be blown UNLESS the alternator SHORTED OUT when it went. If the alternator just opened a winding or connection, the fuse will not be damaged. The fuse is in the rectangular black box (Long side pointing toward the toward the firewall and radiator), right next to the battery.
Just lift the cover off and you will see a WHITE FUSE in the middle marked "150". If you can see molten metal splattered inside it then you know it was blown...., otherwise if it looks continuous and you see no evidence of heat or burning in there, it probably is fine.
#19
Originally Posted by venommaxr33
charlestek,
thanks for the heads up, i guess i just have to break down and pick up a new battery.
FYI..Optima Batteries are the Best thing to happen to cars since rubber tires
thanks for the heads up, i guess i just have to break down and pick up a new battery.
FYI..Optima Batteries are the Best thing to happen to cars since rubber tires
#21
HELP.....BIG PROBLEM, so i replaced the altenator and the battery. i took the car out for the first time last night and it was doing fine then all of a sudden my stereo went out then the lights went dem and it was all down hill from there. what happened? is it possible i got a faulty altenator or i dont know. it just seems like the battery is not being recharged. i don't want to take it to a shop to get it looked at but if i have no other choice than i will i need my car working but right now that's not the case.
#22
at this point in time bring it to a professional. it seems like ur spending more down time with the car than u are driving it. your radio should not just stop working when ur alt goes bad. my radio still worked in my car for that whole 1 hour i drove on my optima. and its not stock bose ill tell ya that. i wasnt bumpin it but i still had it on.
#23
VenomMax Where did you get the alternator
VenomMax,
Where did you get the alternator?
Assuming you tensioned the belt properly (about 4mm play between the main pulley and the A/C compressor),
you could go to an Autozone or the like and if they have a tester they can wheel out to the car, have them test it for free.
If the alternator is bad, make sure when you get another that they test it in-store before you take it.
There is not much in the alternator circuit. I assume you plugged the 2 wire connector for the field winding into the alternator.
IN THE ALTERNATOR CIRCUIT THERE IS ALSO A 7.5 AMP FUSE. IT IS A BROWN FUSE IN THE BLACK BOX WHERE THE 150 AMP main fuse is. ON THE BLACK BOX THERE IS A LABEL FOR IT, I THINK IT SAYS ALTERNATOR OR SOMETHING, IT IS IN THE UPPER RIGHT SECTION OF THE BOX. YOU SHOULD CHECK THIS TOO.
Where did you get the alternator?
Assuming you tensioned the belt properly (about 4mm play between the main pulley and the A/C compressor),
you could go to an Autozone or the like and if they have a tester they can wheel out to the car, have them test it for free.
If the alternator is bad, make sure when you get another that they test it in-store before you take it.
There is not much in the alternator circuit. I assume you plugged the 2 wire connector for the field winding into the alternator.
IN THE ALTERNATOR CIRCUIT THERE IS ALSO A 7.5 AMP FUSE. IT IS A BROWN FUSE IN THE BLACK BOX WHERE THE 150 AMP main fuse is. ON THE BLACK BOX THERE IS A LABEL FOR IT, I THINK IT SAYS ALTERNATOR OR SOMETHING, IT IS IN THE UPPER RIGHT SECTION OF THE BOX. YOU SHOULD CHECK THIS TOO.
#24
Originally Posted by charlestek
VenomMax,
Where did you get the alternator?
Assuming you tensioned the belt properly (about 4mm play between the main pulley and the A/C compressor),
you could go to an Autozone or the like and if they have a tester they can wheel out to the car, have them test it for free.
If the alternator is bad, make sure when you get another that they test it in-store before you take it.
There is not much in the alternator circuit. I assume you plugged the 2 wire connector for the field winding into the alternator.
IN THE ALTERNATOR CIRCUIT THERE IS ALSO A 7.5 AMP FUSE. IT IS A BROWN FUSE IN THE BLACK BOX WHERE THE 150 AMP main fuse is. ON THE BLACK BOX THERE IS A LABEL FOR IT, I THINK IT SAYS ALTERNATOR OR SOMETHING, IT IS IN THE UPPER RIGHT SECTION OF THE BOX. YOU SHOULD CHECK THIS TOO.
Where did you get the alternator?
Assuming you tensioned the belt properly (about 4mm play between the main pulley and the A/C compressor),
you could go to an Autozone or the like and if they have a tester they can wheel out to the car, have them test it for free.
If the alternator is bad, make sure when you get another that they test it in-store before you take it.
There is not much in the alternator circuit. I assume you plugged the 2 wire connector for the field winding into the alternator.
IN THE ALTERNATOR CIRCUIT THERE IS ALSO A 7.5 AMP FUSE. IT IS A BROWN FUSE IN THE BLACK BOX WHERE THE 150 AMP main fuse is. ON THE BLACK BOX THERE IS A LABEL FOR IT, I THINK IT SAYS ALTERNATOR OR SOMETHING, IT IS IN THE UPPER RIGHT SECTION OF THE BOX. YOU SHOULD CHECK THIS TOO.
Thanks, I'll take a look at the fuse first and then go from there. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.
#25
There are at least two shops in my local area that will rebuild your oem alternator or starter. I have used one of these shops for years without problem, rather than going to the parts store. I have also found them to be price competitive, sometimes even more reasonable. On one occasion I had them pull the alternator off my daughters old Prelude (not an easy pull) and rebuild it, and the total cost was not much more than the parts store wanted for just the part. Maybe there are not rebuild shops in your area, but I think it would be a good idea to check.
#26
Last month I went through 2 Pep Boys rebuilt alts. They replaced one a year ago then the alt and brakelight went on a few months laterr but it still kept the battery charged. The ones they replaced last month would charge at 14.5 volts sometimes then drop to 11 volts. Then they thought the plug was bad, but changing it did nothing.
They used Nissan Bosch alts.
After the 2nd I gave up and took the car to a Nissan dealer, they used a Nissan reman. alt with a 1 year warranty, problem solved.
I think the Pep Boys rebuilts had problems with the regulators.
They used Nissan Bosch alts.
After the 2nd I gave up and took the car to a Nissan dealer, they used a Nissan reman. alt with a 1 year warranty, problem solved.
I think the Pep Boys rebuilts had problems with the regulators.
#28
Update from Autozone Headache; MORE HEADACHES!
Early today picked up the alternator from autozone that the manager ordered to replace the duralast one he gave me that had low output.
He wasn't entirely truthful, he ordered me a Beck-Arnley that was priced at $289, but comes in a box saying it is a rebuild. The quality appeared to be much better than the duralast.
However, around 4, I started putting the alternator back in.
Around six, I was fiddling trying to push the two flanges in the alternator which hold the long large 14mm bolt into the engine block. Wouldn't go.
I fiddled for two hours, because I couldn't see well in there, figuring I just had the wrong angle. Finally out of desperation I removed the bolts from the A/C compressor, and lowered it slightly on my floor jack.
NOW I COULD CLEARLY SEE that the inside width between the alternator flanges was at least 1-2mm too narrow to fit into the boss in the block.
This means the yo-yo's who put the alternator back together must have trimmed something internally so that the two halfs of the shell fit together much closer than they should. At first I though perhaps the four 8mm bolts that hold the two halfs were cranked down way too hard, but even loosening them 1/4 turn does not help.
I AM SO MAD I COULD ^^&**^$%%(*_)_)(^$
The weather tomorrow is going to be bad, and now I have to go back to autozone and have them order me another one which takes 1-2 days.
I've been without a dependable car for 2 weeks.
He wasn't entirely truthful, he ordered me a Beck-Arnley that was priced at $289, but comes in a box saying it is a rebuild. The quality appeared to be much better than the duralast.
However, around 4, I started putting the alternator back in.
Around six, I was fiddling trying to push the two flanges in the alternator which hold the long large 14mm bolt into the engine block. Wouldn't go.
I fiddled for two hours, because I couldn't see well in there, figuring I just had the wrong angle. Finally out of desperation I removed the bolts from the A/C compressor, and lowered it slightly on my floor jack.
NOW I COULD CLEARLY SEE that the inside width between the alternator flanges was at least 1-2mm too narrow to fit into the boss in the block.
This means the yo-yo's who put the alternator back together must have trimmed something internally so that the two halfs of the shell fit together much closer than they should. At first I though perhaps the four 8mm bolts that hold the two halfs were cranked down way too hard, but even loosening them 1/4 turn does not help.
I AM SO MAD I COULD ^^&**^$%%(*_)_)(^$
The weather tomorrow is going to be bad, and now I have to go back to autozone and have them order me another one which takes 1-2 days.
I've been without a dependable car for 2 weeks.
#29
[QUOTE The weather tomorrow is going to be bad, and now I have to go back to autozone and have them order me another one which takes 1-2 days.
I've been without a dependable car for 2 weeks.[/QUOTE]
I was without a dependable car for almost a month, that's when I gave up and went to the dealer. It cost me more money but much less aggravation.
I've had the car back for 3 weeks with no problems.
Mine is a 96 maxima and there are 3 different types for that model year depending on the mfg. date.
I've been without a dependable car for 2 weeks.[/QUOTE]
I was without a dependable car for almost a month, that's when I gave up and went to the dealer. It cost me more money but much less aggravation.
I've had the car back for 3 weeks with no problems.
Mine is a 96 maxima and there are 3 different types for that model year depending on the mfg. date.
#30
Originally Posted by charlestek
Early today picked up the alternator from autozone that the manager ordered to replace the duralast one he gave me that had low output.
He wasn't entirely truthful, he ordered me a Beck-Arnley that was priced at $289, but comes in a box saying it is a rebuild. The quality appeared to be much better than the duralast.
However, around 4, I started putting the alternator back in.
Around six, I was fiddling trying to push the two flanges in the alternator which hold the long large 14mm bolt into the engine block. Wouldn't go.
I fiddled for two hours, because I couldn't see well in there, figuring I just had the wrong angle. Finally out of desperation I removed the bolts from the A/C compressor, and lowered it slightly on my floor jack.
NOW I COULD CLEARLY SEE that the inside width between the alternator flanges was at least 1-2mm too narrow to fit into the boss in the block.
This means the yo-yo's who put the alternator back together must have trimmed something internally so that the two halfs of the shell fit together much closer than they should. At first I though perhaps the four 8mm bolts that hold the two halfs were cranked down way too hard, but even loosening them 1/4 turn does not help.
I AM SO MAD I COULD ^^&**^$%%(*_)_)(^$
The weather tomorrow is going to be bad, and now I have to go back to autozone and have them order me another one which takes 1-2 days.
I've been without a dependable car for 2 weeks.
He wasn't entirely truthful, he ordered me a Beck-Arnley that was priced at $289, but comes in a box saying it is a rebuild. The quality appeared to be much better than the duralast.
However, around 4, I started putting the alternator back in.
Around six, I was fiddling trying to push the two flanges in the alternator which hold the long large 14mm bolt into the engine block. Wouldn't go.
I fiddled for two hours, because I couldn't see well in there, figuring I just had the wrong angle. Finally out of desperation I removed the bolts from the A/C compressor, and lowered it slightly on my floor jack.
NOW I COULD CLEARLY SEE that the inside width between the alternator flanges was at least 1-2mm too narrow to fit into the boss in the block.
This means the yo-yo's who put the alternator back together must have trimmed something internally so that the two halfs of the shell fit together much closer than they should. At first I though perhaps the four 8mm bolts that hold the two halfs were cranked down way too hard, but even loosening them 1/4 turn does not help.
I AM SO MAD I COULD ^^&**^$%%(*_)_)(^$
The weather tomorrow is going to be bad, and now I have to go back to autozone and have them order me another one which takes 1-2 days.
I've been without a dependable car for 2 weeks.
The amount of time you've wasted on this (not counting the intangible exasperation), is surely not worth it... heck you could have flipped burgers part time and covered the difference (for an OEM part) during the hours you've spent on this.
#31
Beck Arnley Junk
I just found that on one flange ear there is a press fit sleeve that reduces the diameter. I just took a vice grips and squeezed the sleeve against the frame of the ear, and it pushed in a least a millimeter. That was it. Now I can bolt it in the car.
I finally got the alternator in only to find out that the female field winding clip was broken inside the alternator. There is nothing to secure the male connector from popping out. There is no way to fasten a tie wrap anywhere. Now I have to unbolt the whole mess to take it out and return it.
I finally got the alternator in only to find out that the female field winding clip was broken inside the alternator. There is nothing to secure the male connector from popping out. There is no way to fasten a tie wrap anywhere. Now I have to unbolt the whole mess to take it out and return it.
Originally Posted by njmodi
Are you sure it's worth saving the 100 bucks for this sort of aggravation? Just go get your money back, and buy yourself a Nissan reman.
The amount of time you've wasted on this (not counting the intangible exasperation), is surely not worth it... heck you could have flipped burgers part time and covered the difference (for an OEM part) during the hours you've spent on this.
The amount of time you've wasted on this (not counting the intangible exasperation), is surely not worth it... heck you could have flipped burgers part time and covered the difference (for an OEM part) during the hours you've spent on this.
#32
i have a question, my instrument cluster does not work, it stopped working ever since I replaced my driver side axle, im must have done something, but since then my car has also been just running off battery juice, with the car running im only getting like 12.2 volts which drops to like 11.9 when the cooling fans turn on, so i went and bought a new alternator, and the same thing. I took out the new alternator figuring they gave me a bad one(hearing all these autozone alternator stories), i took it back to get it tested and they said it was fine. SO my question is, if my cluster is out, then does the odometer meter for the charging system not work and causes an open circut?
#34
Don't know
If you have the same voltage, either the alternator is bad, and autozone lied to you (likely) or your belt is not tensioned properly. A charging voltage should be around 13-14 volts. As far as the whole instrument cluster, it must be fused or something.
#35
well when i went to autozone(well actually its Murray's), they tested the alternator in front of me and the computer did say it passed, as for the belt im pretty sure it is tensioned correctly. ive checked the 7.5A Fuse and the 140A fuse and they both check out. The reason why I asked about the cluster is I dont know what the combination meter in the wiring diagram is and i figured it could be the battery light in the cluster acting as some sort of a meter that triggers the light when below like 13.5 V. This problem did start at the same time the cluster went out.
#36
If anyone is interested I paid $343.28 for a Nissan Remanufactered alt. plus $247.00 labor. Note: the labor charge includes an extra 1 hour labor charge at $90.00 I agreed to pay to have the complete car checked for electrical problems before they installed the alt. After what I went through for a month I wanted to be sure it was 1 trip to the dealer.
They wouldn't take the Pep Boys rebuilt Bosch alt so I didn't get a core credit.
The part # is 231 OM OL7O6R
They wouldn't take the Pep Boys rebuilt Bosch alt so I didn't get a core credit.
The part # is 231 OM OL7O6R
#38
Originally Posted by charlestek
I called the nissan dealership today and they said a rebuilt alternator was around $260 with a Nissan core.
I hope you get the best price, but a phone quote of "around" $260. can be quite different than the final price.
Good Luck
#39
http://replacement.autopartswarehous...ue&showdc=true
As you can see by the link, there are several different alts. at different prices for the 96 model year.
As you can see by the link, there are several different alts. at different prices for the 96 model year.
#40
I finally figured out my problem, it was the 10A fuse labeled "METER" in the interior fuses, i guess this is whats in the alternator wiring diagram as combination meter. My old alternator was most likely good so I guess I dished out $170 for something I could have fixed for about 25 cents. So when you are not getting a good voltage across the batt.(13.5-15), first check the 7.5 A and 140A fuses in the fuse box in the engine compartment. If you happen to have a instrument cluster problem as well(like I did) then check the 10A fuse labeled "METER" under the dash. Dont be stupid like me and automatically assume its the alternator and go get a new one without even testing the old one. -Andy