Need help! Car shuts off when placed in reverse orDrive when first startup in morning
#1
Need help! Car shuts off when placed in reverse orDrive when first startup in morning
before when i first started my car up for the first time for the day, and when i put it in reverse and would hit the gas too hard, the car would sputter and feel like its about to shutoff
but now since its real cold, when ever i put it in drive or reverse it just completely shuts offf
i have to wait literally about 5mins for it to warm up before i could put it in gear, without it shutting off
i mean i cleaned the iacv
cleaned tb
fuel filters been changed
spark plugs been changed
knock sensor
o2 sensors
man basically everything except i have my pcv in the trunk not yet changed.
its not the MAF and im not getting any codes
im thinking maybe the coolant temp sensor? but that wouldnt cause the car to shut off...
when i star the car up my idle is at like 800 or so.. i mean its normal when cold. i cant think of anything else, unless injector cleaning or some shiet
need help!
but now since its real cold, when ever i put it in drive or reverse it just completely shuts offf
i have to wait literally about 5mins for it to warm up before i could put it in gear, without it shutting off
i mean i cleaned the iacv
cleaned tb
fuel filters been changed
spark plugs been changed
knock sensor
o2 sensors
man basically everything except i have my pcv in the trunk not yet changed.
its not the MAF and im not getting any codes
im thinking maybe the coolant temp sensor? but that wouldnt cause the car to shut off...
when i star the car up my idle is at like 800 or so.. i mean its normal when cold. i cant think of anything else, unless injector cleaning or some shiet
need help!
#4
Same thing happens to me... for the past year, this is why I hate the winter. I'm in the same boat as you. Most parts under my hood are brand new. Every one you mentioned, I even changed the PCV valve last week. I just make sure my temperature gauge is fully warmed up before I go anywhere. I don't think cleaning the injectors will help... all 6 of mine are brand new, didn't solve that problem. And I think 800RPM is a little low considering it's warming up. That's about normal after it's fully warmed up. It's not the ECTC, changed mine last winter, didn't solve my problem. I figure once I convert a 5-speed I won't have the problem anymore?
#6
guys i need help!!
i was with my boys and we were driving around for a good half an hour. anyways the car is warmed up, but i raced this eclipse from a roll [obviously ate him] then about 10 mins later. at the traffic light im pressing the gas, and the car is reving and not going anywhere!!! wtf, when i turn the car off and start it back it works like normal need help!!!
btw i changed my fluid over the summer with a new screen
i was with my boys and we were driving around for a good half an hour. anyways the car is warmed up, but i raced this eclipse from a roll [obviously ate him] then about 10 mins later. at the traffic light im pressing the gas, and the car is reving and not going anywhere!!! wtf, when i turn the car off and start it back it works like normal need help!!!
btw i changed my fluid over the summer with a new screen
#7
It's your tranny dude do you have an aftermarket VB? I have the stage II.5 and my boy has a stage II VB from Maximum Tuning. Both our cars act up for the first 5-10 minutes or so first thing in the morning. Like it'll stall, hesitate, rpms will jump around etc.
#8
Originally Posted by HarrisH
It's your tranny dude do you have an aftermarket VB? I have the stage II.5 and my boy has a stage II VB from Maximum Tuning. Both our cars act up for the first 5-10 minutes or so first thing in the morning. Like it'll stall, hesitate, rpms will jump around etc.
#9
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
guys i need help!!
i was with my boys and we were driving around for a good half an hour. anyways the car is warmed up, but i raced this eclipse from a roll [obviously ate him] then about 10 mins later. at the traffic light im pressing the gas, and the car is reving and not going anywhere!!! wtf, when i turn the car off and start it back it works like normal need help!!!
btw i changed my fluid over the summer with a new screen
i was with my boys and we were driving around for a good half an hour. anyways the car is warmed up, but i raced this eclipse from a roll [obviously ate him] then about 10 mins later. at the traffic light im pressing the gas, and the car is reving and not going anywhere!!! wtf, when i turn the car off and start it back it works like normal need help!!!
btw i changed my fluid over the summer with a new screen
#10
Originally Posted by lilaclucymaxima
Scroll up and read, it's already been answered. He only has a tranny cooler. And I have nothing done to my tranny but a DR mod, which is off anyway unless I turn it on.
#11
Come on man.........why would you want to go racing in your car when you know that its having issues? Take it in to a shop you trust and have it checked out. They'll hook up your TCU to a scanner and hopefully be able to tell you what is up.
#12
Here is some stuff I found about the stalling thing. Goes with what Harris was saying about the issued being with your transmission. By the way this thing is a PIA to deal with if you are in a hurry .
Thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=stalling+gear
Link from thread:
http://www.jatan.net/tsbs/047481.pdf
Thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=stalling+gear
Link from thread:
http://www.jatan.net/tsbs/047481.pdf
#13
welcome to the world of automatics. my dads did it a few times when its cold out. maybe the fluid is so thick that it stress' the engine enough to stall it. as if the wheels and the engine were mechanicly linked, and not through viscosity. kind of like a manual when you try to stop with it in gear it will stall.
#14
Well my tranny as well as my friends was freshly rebuilt. My trans. is semi-bullet proof while my buddies is a normal rebuild. We both are experiencing what you are except for the slipping issue. I'm still wondering if it has to do with the valve body based on Robs (NRH Transmission in MD) explanation to me. Try this, put your key in the ON position but do not start your car, pop your hood and see if you hear any whirring coming from the trans., if not, pull your throttle linkage up a little as if you were depressing the gas pedal from inside, see if you hear it then. My car makes this whirring noise as does my buddies STOCK with STOCK AT. Not sure if it's normal or not but something you can get checked out.
#15
alright, now i the fluid is good, i mean the tranny shifts hard and everything. just sometimes, NOT ALWAYS does it slip. only maybe once or twice.
sometimes when the car is in drive, and i have my foot on the brakes it could feel the car pulling and letting go, pulling and letting go and the rpm would rise and drop
now im using penzoil atf, i duno if thats what im suppose to use
my tranny does smell kind of burnt after driving for awhile.. but fluid is nice and pink
yes its the stock VB
could it be because my coolant sensor is bad? and the car and tranny is not warming up?? sorry just a though
sometimes when the car is in drive, and i have my foot on the brakes it could feel the car pulling and letting go, pulling and letting go and the rpm would rise and drop
now im using penzoil atf, i duno if thats what im suppose to use
my tranny does smell kind of burnt after driving for awhile.. but fluid is nice and pink
yes its the stock VB
could it be because my coolant sensor is bad? and the car and tranny is not warming up?? sorry just a though
#16
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
alright, now i the fluid is good, i mean the tranny shifts hard and everything. just sometimes, NOT ALWAYS does it slip. only maybe once or twice.
sometimes when the car is in drive, and i have my foot on the brakes it could feel the car pulling and letting go, pulling and letting go and the rpm would rise and drop
now im using penzoil atf, i duno if thats what im suppose to use
my tranny does smell kind of burnt after driving for awhile.. but fluid is nice and pink
yes its the stock VB
could it be because my coolant sensor is bad? and the car and tranny is not warming up?? sorry just a though
sometimes when the car is in drive, and i have my foot on the brakes it could feel the car pulling and letting go, pulling and letting go and the rpm would rise and drop
now im using penzoil atf, i duno if thats what im suppose to use
my tranny does smell kind of burnt after driving for awhile.. but fluid is nice and pink
yes its the stock VB
could it be because my coolant sensor is bad? and the car and tranny is not warming up?? sorry just a though
#18
Well I'm no mechanic just guessing. But have some tranny shop check out your trans. And I know what you mean when you say when your foot is off the brake the car should be moving. It could be your TC, VB, solenoids, anything.
#19
For some odd reason, I'm not sure its really tranny related. THe throttle cable does not connect to the tranny at all, but rather to the intake manifold. This is an odd issue, and I'm not sure exactly where one would start, so I guess diagnosing the tranny is not a bad idea
#20
Originally Posted by nupe500
For some odd reason, I'm not sure its really tranny related. THe throttle cable does not connect to the tranny at all, but rather to the intake manifold. This is an odd issue, and I'm not sure exactly where one would start, so I guess diagnosing the tranny is not a bad idea
#24
I'm almost starting to think if it's the cold fluid that's causing the trans to act up. Before this I never had a tranny cooler either, I had an aftermarket Stage II VB from MT in LI for almost 2 years on my original trans. NEVER a problem. But then again I'm speaking to tranny experts, Rob for e.g., and he's saying something else, that it can more than likely be the VB (the bypass clutch valve sticking when it's cold). Also Tilley had some issues on his auto trans. too when his car was an auto, after he replaced his VB his issues went away too.
#25
i mean i bought some more penzoil fluid today, and a filter and gasket... i mean i know if change the fluid it wont make a difference, cuz i just put new fluid in it less than 3k miles ago.
i mean today the car was shifting fine, but sometimes from stop and go its slips just a little, and today i was driving WOT and it didnt want to shift into 2nd at one point
i mean the car acts up when it wants
should i change the fluid? or just take it back?
i mean today the car was shifting fine, but sometimes from stop and go its slips just a little, and today i was driving WOT and it didnt want to shift into 2nd at one point
i mean the car acts up when it wants
should i change the fluid? or just take it back?
#27
I found this on this website: http://www.2carpros.com/topics/trans.htm
I don't know how true this is but maybe moisture can cause transmission problems in cold regions.
Question: 1996 Ford Windstar 3.8 mileage: 60k. I will be towing a 2500 lb. camper on an extended vacation this summer and want to install a transmission cooler. My Ford service manual says the factory cooler which comes with the towing package (which my vehicle does not have) has a fluid bypass valve that redirects fluid around the external cooler below 32 degrees. Do any aftermarket add on coolers have this valve and is it a good idea for me to pursue buying a cooler of this type?
Answer: We do not know of any aftermarket transmission coolers that have a bypass valve. It probably is a good idea to have this valve if you live in an area of the country that has cold winters. If the fluid in the transmission does not warm up during normal operation to drive the moisture out, the fluid will become contaminated.
I don't know how true this is but maybe moisture can cause transmission problems in cold regions.
Question: 1996 Ford Windstar 3.8 mileage: 60k. I will be towing a 2500 lb. camper on an extended vacation this summer and want to install a transmission cooler. My Ford service manual says the factory cooler which comes with the towing package (which my vehicle does not have) has a fluid bypass valve that redirects fluid around the external cooler below 32 degrees. Do any aftermarket add on coolers have this valve and is it a good idea for me to pursue buying a cooler of this type?
Answer: We do not know of any aftermarket transmission coolers that have a bypass valve. It probably is a good idea to have this valve if you live in an area of the country that has cold winters. If the fluid in the transmission does not warm up during normal operation to drive the moisture out, the fluid will become contaminated.
#29
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
yea i dont know..it feels like the tranny is going, but it still shifts strong
i mean when the car is cold, it shifs perfect and does not slip
but when the car gets warm, its starts to slip
i mean when the car is cold, it shifs perfect and does not slip
but when the car gets warm, its starts to slip
My buddies is doing the exact same thing, he's getting his checked out on Monday I'll make sure he keeps me up to date so I can keep people up to date with similar problems.
#31
Your tranny is going for sure bro. I had the same problem with mine. I'll be driving, and then all the suddent, the car basically looses half of it's power, and when I floor it, it's bearly pulling. I had to stop the car, turn it off, and turn it back on. I also had the problem at start up, it just wouldn't roll.
Start looking for a 5sp and stop wasting your time and money trying to find out wtf is going on.
Start looking for a 5sp and stop wasting your time and money trying to find out wtf is going on.
#34
Originally Posted by urmab
2 Da Max listen probably it torque converter is slipping are u sure its good because ive seen this happen before , if u want i can take a look at it
#36
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
well my old torq converter had a lot of sratches and digs in it..
but i heard it could be torq conveter lock up as well?
i dont know man, i really need this car for school and shiet.
but i heard it could be torq conveter lock up as well?
i dont know man, i really need this car for school and shiet.
#38
ok well, i called Jeff at maximum tuning and he said that my torq converter is shooting debris all between the solenoids and all throughout the tranny
he said i might need a full rebuild... but i dont understand how this is happening i dont beat on my tranny at all, i take good care of it
would too much fluid in there mess it up?
how would the egr effect the tranny?
i just did a full tune up yesterday on the engine
he said i might need a full rebuild... but i dont understand how this is happening i dont beat on my tranny at all, i take good care of it
would too much fluid in there mess it up?
how would the egr effect the tranny?
i just did a full tune up yesterday on the engine
#40
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
ok well, i called Jeff at maximum tuning and he said that my torq converter is shooting debris all between the solenoids and all throughout the tranny
he said i might need a full rebuild... but i dont understand how this is happening i dont beat on my tranny at all, i take good care of it
would too much fluid in there mess it up?
how would the egr effect the tranny?
i just did a full tune up yesterday on the engine
he said i might need a full rebuild... but i dont understand how this is happening i dont beat on my tranny at all, i take good care of it
would too much fluid in there mess it up?
how would the egr effect the tranny?
i just did a full tune up yesterday on the engine