Need help! Car shuts off when placed in reverse orDrive when first startup in morning
11-21-2005, 02:45 PM
#41
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The issue is def. tranny related, it's actually, for one reason or another, engaging the 'lock-up tourqe convertor' when it's not supposed. Lock-up TC's are only supposed to engage at highway speeds. So thats whats going on, but I can't tell you why for sure, your tranny could need to be rebuilt, or something else valve body related, or maybe you are having problems with your vehicle speed sensor. Takeing it to a nissan dealer to have the tranny codes checked should be your next step (You can actually do it yourself via the overdrive button & light, but it's a royal pita). Now that I've cleared that up....
We used to have a 99 i30 that we bought from enterprise rental at 30k, at 55k the exact same thing started happening to it, cold snowy morning it stalled going into gear, next day when it was cold it did the same thing, even once it had warmed up it felt like it was in to high of a gear sometimes. It got worse, you couldn't even drive it, so under warranty infiniti put a new tranny in it, and gave us a G35 Coupe loaner (This was in '02 like a month after they came out!) Somebody that rented our car deffinitly had fun doing rollbacks in it!
We used to have a 99 i30 that we bought from enterprise rental at 30k, at 55k the exact same thing started happening to it, cold snowy morning it stalled going into gear, next day when it was cold it did the same thing, even once it had warmed up it felt like it was in to high of a gear sometimes. It got worse, you couldn't even drive it, so under warranty infiniti put a new tranny in it, and gave us a G35 Coupe loaner (This was in '02 like a month after they came out!) Somebody that rented our car deffinitly had fun doing rollbacks in it!
11-21-2005, 05:37 PM
#45
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
The issue is def. tranny related, it's actually, for one reason or another, engaging the 'lock-up tourqe convertor' when it's not supposed. Lock-up TC's are only supposed to engage at highway speeds. So thats whats going on, but I can't tell you why for sure, your tranny could need to be rebuilt, or something else valve body related, or maybe you are having problems with your vehicle speed sensor. Takeing it to a nissan dealer to have the tranny codes checked should be your next step (You can actually do it yourself via the overdrive button & light, but it's a royal pita). Now that I've cleared that up....
We used to have a 99 i30 that we bought from enterprise rental at 30k, at 55k the exact same thing started happening to it, cold snowy morning it stalled going into gear, next day when it was cold it did the same thing, even once it had warmed up it felt like it was in to high of a gear sometimes. It got worse, you couldn't even drive it, so under warranty infiniti put a new tranny in it, and gave us a G35 Coupe loaner (This was in '02 like a month after they came out!) Somebody that rented our car deffinitly had fun doing rollbacks in it!
We used to have a 99 i30 that we bought from enterprise rental at 30k, at 55k the exact same thing started happening to it, cold snowy morning it stalled going into gear, next day when it was cold it did the same thing, even once it had warmed up it felt like it was in to high of a gear sometimes. It got worse, you couldn't even drive it, so under warranty infiniti put a new tranny in it, and gave us a G35 Coupe loaner (This was in '02 like a month after they came out!) Somebody that rented our car deffinitly had fun doing rollbacks in it!
so basically it can be anything in the tranny? or could it be the speed sensor?
i had a code for speed sensor, and bad connection from tranny control unit to the ecu, but thats been for 2 years now since i did the swap
lol i need to fix this quick, or my dads going to junk it or trade it in for a pontiac g6..not that pos
11-21-2005, 06:36 PM
#46
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
so basically it can be anything in the tranny? or could it be the speed sensor?
i had a code for speed sensor, and bad connection from tranny control unit to the ecu, but thats been for 2 years now since i did the swap
lol i need to fix this quick, or my dads going to junk it or trade it in for a pontiac g6..not that pos
i had a code for speed sensor, and bad connection from tranny control unit to the ecu, but thats been for 2 years now since i did the swap
lol i need to fix this quick, or my dads going to junk it or trade it in for a pontiac g6..not that pos
11-21-2005, 07:21 PM
#47
LOL!!! you guys got to hear this shiet..
ok so its raining outside, and im mad as fawk, when to go put some chevron techron in the tank since is part of my oil change[well never done it b4]whatever doesnt make a diff. with the tranny
so im mad as hell with this pos car, and i start guning it, and the wheels are spinning a little since i hit the gas kinda hard in the rain. whatever im totally abusing the shiet out of the car.. and it shifts a little better now! i mean the car doesnt stall or slip no more, maybe just a little bit for take off, but the car shifts fine and no more slipping! i dont get it, my car is weird maybe i should beat on it some more.. but still dont know whats wrong with the tranny
ok so its raining outside, and im mad as fawk, when to go put some chevron techron in the tank since is part of my oil change[well never done it b4]whatever doesnt make a diff. with the tranny
so im mad as hell with this pos car, and i start guning it, and the wheels are spinning a little since i hit the gas kinda hard in the rain. whatever im totally abusing the shiet out of the car.. and it shifts a little better now! i mean the car doesnt stall or slip no more, maybe just a little bit for take off, but the car shifts fine and no more slipping! i dont get it, my car is weird maybe i should beat on it some more.. but still dont know whats wrong with the tranny
11-22-2005, 05:50 AM
#48
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
LOL!!! you guys got to hear this shiet..
ok so its raining outside, and im mad as fawk, when to go put some chevron techron in the tank since is part of my oil change[well never done it b4]whatever doesnt make a diff. with the tranny
so im mad as hell with this pos car, and i start guning it, and the wheels are spinning a little since i hit the gas kinda hard in the rain. whatever im totally abusing the shiet out of the car.. and it shifts a little better now! i mean the car doesnt stall or slip no more, maybe just a little bit for take off, but the car shifts fine and no more slipping! i dont get it, my car is weird maybe i should beat on it some more.. but still dont know whats wrong with the tranny
ok so its raining outside, and im mad as fawk, when to go put some chevron techron in the tank since is part of my oil change[well never done it b4]whatever doesnt make a diff. with the tranny
so im mad as hell with this pos car, and i start guning it, and the wheels are spinning a little since i hit the gas kinda hard in the rain. whatever im totally abusing the shiet out of the car.. and it shifts a little better now! i mean the car doesnt stall or slip no more, maybe just a little bit for take off, but the car shifts fine and no more slipping! i dont get it, my car is weird maybe i should beat on it some more.. but still dont know whats wrong with the tranny
LoL funny, sometimes it will act up sometimes it won't it's the nature of the beast. Don't be surprised when you wake up one day and you don't have any gears at all. I'm starting to think if it may also be your solenoids or your valve body you should get those checked out for pressure, continuity, and resistance.
11-22-2005, 06:39 AM
#49
where can i get it checked at? LeeMYLES? i heard they do it for free, but only if it comes up on the computer. Basically only if it has an electronic problem
neways it still acts up.. but im still debating if i should flush it or not
neways it still acts up.. but im still debating if i should flush it or not
11-22-2005, 02:22 PM
#50
Major misconception! Why haven't you taken your tranny in for inspection yet? Are you trying to save that little $ for inspection fees when you don't know if your transmission is getting worse due to the present symptoms? That could cost you way more in the end. I wouldn't delay on this if I were you.
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
maybe i should beat on it some more.. but still dont know whats wrong with the tranny
11-22-2005, 02:37 PM
#51
Dennis i took it to several shops, they said yea bring it in well drop the tranny and inspect it and give you a nice bill just for looking
the tranny is shifting fine, its just giving me a little slip when im in DRIVE at a stop light and when i have to hit the gas again
so this is what im doing.. im going to flush it out tonight asap! drain the old fluid out, check for any metal shavings, and changethat tranny filter/screen
i have bought about 5 quarts of tranny fluid, penzoil atf .. i think i might need 5 more for a full 10 quarts
anyways, do i drain all the fluid out from the tranny first, then disconnect the hose to the tranny cooler and shift out the fluid, or do i disconnect the tranny cooler hose first, and shift out all the fluid from there???
which one first? open the bolt? or just drain the tranny from shiftin with the tranny cooler hose off?
btw if i do add 10 quarts to an empty tranny, the necessary four will go to the torq converter right?
the tranny is shifting fine, its just giving me a little slip when im in DRIVE at a stop light and when i have to hit the gas again
so this is what im doing.. im going to flush it out tonight asap! drain the old fluid out, check for any metal shavings, and changethat tranny filter/screen
i have bought about 5 quarts of tranny fluid, penzoil atf .. i think i might need 5 more for a full 10 quarts
anyways, do i drain all the fluid out from the tranny first, then disconnect the hose to the tranny cooler and shift out the fluid, or do i disconnect the tranny cooler hose first, and shift out all the fluid from there???
which one first? open the bolt? or just drain the tranny from shiftin with the tranny cooler hose off?
btw if i do add 10 quarts to an empty tranny, the necessary four will go to the torq converter right?
11-22-2005, 02:54 PM
#52
Good plan! 
Usually a tranny shop would try to pull codes from the TCU (on automatics). I would assume that would be the first thing they'd do instead of getting into all that labor dropping a transmission. Have they tried pulling codes from the TCU yet?
Usually a tranny shop would try to pull codes from the TCU (on automatics). I would assume that would be the first thing they'd do instead of getting into all that labor dropping a transmission. Have they tried pulling codes from the TCU yet?
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
Dennis i took it to several shops, they said yea bring it in well drop the tranny and inspect it and give you a nice bill just for looking
the tranny is shifting fine, its just giving me a little slip when im in DRIVE at a stop light and when i have to hit the gas again
so this is what im doing.. im going to flush it out tonight asap! drain the old fluid out, check for any metal shavings, and changethat tranny filter/screen
i have bought about 5 quarts of tranny fluid, penzoil atf .. i think i might need 5 more for a full 10 quarts
anyways, do i drain all the fluid out from the tranny first, then disconnect the hose to the tranny cooler and shift out the fluid, or do i disconnect the tranny cooler hose first, and shift out all the fluid from there???
which one first? open the bolt? or just drain the tranny from shiftin with the tranny cooler hose off?
btw if i do add 10 quarts to an empty tranny, the necessary four will go to the torq converter right?
the tranny is shifting fine, its just giving me a little slip when im in DRIVE at a stop light and when i have to hit the gas again
so this is what im doing.. im going to flush it out tonight asap! drain the old fluid out, check for any metal shavings, and changethat tranny filter/screen
i have bought about 5 quarts of tranny fluid, penzoil atf .. i think i might need 5 more for a full 10 quarts
anyways, do i drain all the fluid out from the tranny first, then disconnect the hose to the tranny cooler and shift out the fluid, or do i disconnect the tranny cooler hose first, and shift out all the fluid from there???
which one first? open the bolt? or just drain the tranny from shiftin with the tranny cooler hose off?
btw if i do add 10 quarts to an empty tranny, the necessary four will go to the torq converter right?
11-22-2005, 04:03 PM
#53
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
""o basically it can be anything in the tranny? or could it be the speed sensor?
i had a code for speed sensor, and bad connection from tranny control unit to the ecu, but thats been for 2 years now since i did the swap""
sorry I must have missed that, Whats the swap?
""I had a code for......""
think about how the speed sensor controls the locking TC, also maybe the problems randomness has something to do with the loose connection. Either way, just like DR-Max said you could have a simple problem that could turn into $major$ problems.
The difficult part is finding a trustworthy AND smart tranny tech. If you still can't fix it soon you could look into taking a to a Vo-tech school for diagnosis (Is he serious!) Yes I am, and heres why. The teachers are usually smart techs, and on a diagnosis of a late model computer controlled tranny, they would more than likely do everything themselves while explaining to the students. The other good thing, asides from dirt cheap labor rates, is you don't run into the worst case scenario (and common) where the tranny shop tells you it needs to be torn apart because they either A: want to make a quick buck or B: they don't know how to properly diagnose it. The only problem with vo-tech schools is that their very picky about what they take for jobs and they might not want it for whatever reason, at least thats how my school was, but our auto program was always top three in the state for years.
i had a code for speed sensor, and bad connection from tranny control unit to the ecu, but thats been for 2 years now since i did the swap""
sorry I must have missed that, Whats the swap?
""I had a code for......""
think about how the speed sensor controls the locking TC, also maybe the problems randomness has something to do with the loose connection. Either way, just like DR-Max said you could have a simple problem that could turn into $major$ problems.
The difficult part is finding a trustworthy AND smart tranny tech. If you still can't fix it soon you could look into taking a to a Vo-tech school for diagnosis (Is he serious!) Yes I am, and heres why. The teachers are usually smart techs, and on a diagnosis of a late model computer controlled tranny, they would more than likely do everything themselves while explaining to the students. The other good thing, asides from dirt cheap labor rates, is you don't run into the worst case scenario (and common) where the tranny shop tells you it needs to be torn apart because they either A: want to make a quick buck or B: they don't know how to properly diagnose it. The only problem with vo-tech schools is that their very picky about what they take for jobs and they might not want it for whatever reason, at least thats how my school was, but our auto program was always top three in the state for years.
11-22-2005, 06:06 PM
#54
never heard of VO tech bro.
i did a 99 se auto swap in my car bout 2 years back, never had a problem with it in the winter before
Ok this is the only problem i really have
when in drive at certain times when the tranny acts up, mostly when it gets hot. when i let my foot of the brakes and leave it in drive, the car does not roll, when i give it gas very easy, it feels like something is grinding in there and makes a whirling noise, basically the car pulls like if it were a stick shift from a roll. as if you were letting go of the clutch slowly you could feel the car pull forward slowly
i did a 99 se auto swap in my car bout 2 years back, never had a problem with it in the winter before
Ok this is the only problem i really have
when in drive at certain times when the tranny acts up, mostly when it gets hot. when i let my foot of the brakes and leave it in drive, the car does not roll, when i give it gas very easy, it feels like something is grinding in there and makes a whirling noise, basically the car pulls like if it were a stick shift from a roll. as if you were letting go of the clutch slowly you could feel the car pull forward slowly
11-22-2005, 06:15 PM
#55
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 66
iacv-ficd
(iacv-ficd)= intake air chamber valve-fast idle control device
the sensor is on the air chamber next to the brake booster. I changed mine and all was well no more problems with idle no more shifting problems.
just my 2 cents
hope this helps
the sensor is on the air chamber next to the brake booster. I changed mine and all was well no more problems with idle no more shifting problems.
just my 2 cents
hope this helps
11-22-2005, 06:20 PM
#56
how much does this cost? would it not throw a code?
it is definately a tranny problem, i could smell the tranny fluid getting hot
but i would definately looking into this. so its on the brake booster?
it is definately a tranny problem, i could smell the tranny fluid getting hot
but i would definately looking into this. so its on the brake booster?
11-22-2005, 06:46 PM
#57
i didnt bother the read the entire post, but it sounds like the torque converter clutch is still applied. I havent gone through my auto trans book in a while, but when you shut off a car, the TCC is applied.
another problem may be the Foward and Reverse Clutch packs are Applied at the same time in Gear.
another problem may be the Foward and Reverse Clutch packs are Applied at the same time in Gear.
11-23-2005, 03:06 AM
#59
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2
>> my tranny does smell kind of burnt after driving for awhile.. but fluid is nice and pink
Sounds kinda like what I did in my Australian Maxima. Here's my best guess what's going on:
Pinion gears in the diff bound to the pinion mate and sheared the pin that holds it in place. When the diff locked up it took out clutch packs in the transmission and generally made a mess in there. The pinion mate starts to machine a hole out of the transmission housing resulting in lots of metal floating around in there too. Not nice.
Fluid starts to leak out around the bell housing and eventually ends up on the exhaust (hence the burning smell).
>> at the traffic light im pressing the gas, and the car is reving and not going anywhere!!! wtf, when i turn the car off and start it back it works like normal need
Depending on the severity of the damage, it can take a week or so to drain enough fluid out of the tranny to start noticing problems. Dumb question which may have been answered but is your tranny fluid level low? When you turn off the car the fluid starts to settle and when you turn it back on you've got enough to give drive again if you're not pushing it too hard...
I'd been noticing something strange for a couple of months before my tranny went similar to what was mentioned at the top of the thread. When it was really cold it would try to stall and generally felt as though I was starting out in fourth gear. When I put my foot down the transmission would thunk and the car would take off as though it dropped back into first and break traction. I assume this was a problem with the auto like lock up clutches engaged when they shouldn't be (as mentioned above), but it definitely wasn't doing much good for the diff. Neither my mechanic nor a Nissan service department could figure out what the problem was or suggest a solution until the whole transaxle self destructed.
When my diff finally went I was breaking hard into a corner on twisty, narrow mountain road. It flicked me round and I ended up taking the corner at 90 degrees (on my side of the road thankfully) with a car coming the other way. It was a week later before I realised that there was something seriously wrong - she'd been busily draining the transmission and was leaking out of every orifice in the transmission imaginable. Moral of the story: if anybody else has this problem get it sorted sooner rather than later. It'll probably cost a whole lot less to get the diff/tranny sorted than having to get the whole transaxle rebuilt too.
Sounds kinda like what I did in my Australian Maxima. Here's my best guess what's going on:
Pinion gears in the diff bound to the pinion mate and sheared the pin that holds it in place. When the diff locked up it took out clutch packs in the transmission and generally made a mess in there. The pinion mate starts to machine a hole out of the transmission housing resulting in lots of metal floating around in there too. Not nice.
Fluid starts to leak out around the bell housing and eventually ends up on the exhaust (hence the burning smell).
>> at the traffic light im pressing the gas, and the car is reving and not going anywhere!!! wtf, when i turn the car off and start it back it works like normal need
Depending on the severity of the damage, it can take a week or so to drain enough fluid out of the tranny to start noticing problems. Dumb question which may have been answered but is your tranny fluid level low? When you turn off the car the fluid starts to settle and when you turn it back on you've got enough to give drive again if you're not pushing it too hard...
I'd been noticing something strange for a couple of months before my tranny went similar to what was mentioned at the top of the thread. When it was really cold it would try to stall and generally felt as though I was starting out in fourth gear. When I put my foot down the transmission would thunk and the car would take off as though it dropped back into first and break traction. I assume this was a problem with the auto like lock up clutches engaged when they shouldn't be (as mentioned above), but it definitely wasn't doing much good for the diff. Neither my mechanic nor a Nissan service department could figure out what the problem was or suggest a solution until the whole transaxle self destructed.
When my diff finally went I was breaking hard into a corner on twisty, narrow mountain road. It flicked me round and I ended up taking the corner at 90 degrees (on my side of the road thankfully) with a car coming the other way. It was a week later before I realised that there was something seriously wrong - she'd been busily draining the transmission and was leaking out of every orifice in the transmission imaginable. Moral of the story: if anybody else has this problem get it sorted sooner rather than later. It'll probably cost a whole lot less to get the diff/tranny sorted than having to get the whole transaxle rebuilt too.
11-23-2005, 04:14 AM
#60
This morning made me believe it's the tranny. I went to move it so my mom could bring my younger sisters to school, and it wasn't warmed up. I backed out fine, then put it in D and gave it a little gas (my driveway is steep), and it just revved for the most part. The fluid has never been changed, but I figure I will just wait out the winter, and keep warming up my car in the morning, then do a 5-speed swap in the spring. 
11-23-2005, 07:28 AM
#61
Originally Posted by Aus I30
>> my tranny does smell kind of burnt after driving for awhile.. but fluid is nice and pink
Sounds kinda like what I did in my Australian Maxima. Here's my best guess what's going on:
Pinion gears in the diff bound to the pinion mate and sheared the pin that holds it in place. When the diff locked up it took out clutch packs in the transmission and generally made a mess in there. The pinion mate starts to machine a hole out of the transmission housing resulting in lots of metal floating around in there too. Not nice.
Fluid starts to leak out around the bell housing and eventually ends up on the exhaust (hence the burning smell).
>> at the traffic light im pressing the gas, and the car is reving and not going anywhere!!! wtf, when i turn the car off and start it back it works like normal need
Depending on the severity of the damage, it can take a week or so to drain enough fluid out of the tranny to start noticing problems. Dumb question which may have been answered but is your tranny fluid level low? When you turn off the car the fluid starts to settle and when you turn it back on you've got enough to give drive again if you're not pushing it too hard...
I'd been noticing something strange for a couple of months before my tranny went similar to what was mentioned at the top of the thread. When it was really cold it would try to stall and generally felt as though I was starting out in fourth gear. When I put my foot down the transmission would thunk and the car would take off as though it dropped back into first and break traction. I assume this was a problem with the auto like lock up clutches engaged when they shouldn't be (as mentioned above), but it definitely wasn't doing much good for the diff. Neither my mechanic nor a Nissan service department could figure out what the problem was or suggest a solution until the whole transaxle self destructed.
When my diff finally went I was breaking hard into a corner on twisty, narrow mountain road. It flicked me round and I ended up taking the corner at 90 degrees (on my side of the road thankfully) with a car coming the other way. It was a week later before I realised that there was something seriously wrong - she'd been busily draining the transmission and was leaking out of every orifice in the transmission imaginable. Moral of the story: if anybody else has this problem get it sorted sooner rather than later. It'll probably cost a whole lot less to get the diff/tranny sorted than having to get the whole transaxle rebuilt too.
Sounds kinda like what I did in my Australian Maxima. Here's my best guess what's going on:
Pinion gears in the diff bound to the pinion mate and sheared the pin that holds it in place. When the diff locked up it took out clutch packs in the transmission and generally made a mess in there. The pinion mate starts to machine a hole out of the transmission housing resulting in lots of metal floating around in there too. Not nice.
Fluid starts to leak out around the bell housing and eventually ends up on the exhaust (hence the burning smell).
>> at the traffic light im pressing the gas, and the car is reving and not going anywhere!!! wtf, when i turn the car off and start it back it works like normal need
Depending on the severity of the damage, it can take a week or so to drain enough fluid out of the tranny to start noticing problems. Dumb question which may have been answered but is your tranny fluid level low? When you turn off the car the fluid starts to settle and when you turn it back on you've got enough to give drive again if you're not pushing it too hard...
I'd been noticing something strange for a couple of months before my tranny went similar to what was mentioned at the top of the thread. When it was really cold it would try to stall and generally felt as though I was starting out in fourth gear. When I put my foot down the transmission would thunk and the car would take off as though it dropped back into first and break traction. I assume this was a problem with the auto like lock up clutches engaged when they shouldn't be (as mentioned above), but it definitely wasn't doing much good for the diff. Neither my mechanic nor a Nissan service department could figure out what the problem was or suggest a solution until the whole transaxle self destructed.
When my diff finally went I was breaking hard into a corner on twisty, narrow mountain road. It flicked me round and I ended up taking the corner at 90 degrees (on my side of the road thankfully) with a car coming the other way. It was a week later before I realised that there was something seriously wrong - she'd been busily draining the transmission and was leaking out of every orifice in the transmission imaginable. Moral of the story: if anybody else has this problem get it sorted sooner rather than later. It'll probably cost a whole lot less to get the diff/tranny sorted than having to get the whole transaxle rebuilt too.
anyways everything you have mentioned is happening to my car, except for the transaxle being damaged.
i have more than enough fluid
11-25-2005, 04:52 AM
#62
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2
Unfortunate. All I can tell you is that a transmission rebuild made all my problems go away but cost $$. 5 speed here we come... ?
The bonus is that the rebuilt tranny came with a 3 year warranty. The bad news is that I'm not expecting it to last that long (working for the ski industry and doing lots of hard k's). Unfortunately you can't get manual Maximas in Australia or I never would have had the problem in the first place.
The bonus is that the rebuilt tranny came with a 3 year warranty. The bad news is that I'm not expecting it to last that long (working for the ski industry and doing lots of hard k's). Unfortunately you can't get manual Maximas in Australia or I never would have had the problem in the first place.
11-25-2005, 10:19 AM
#63
manuals are biches too at times, but not as costly as auto
i want to do the swap, but its alot of money and time i dont have needed. If i can find a parts car i would do it... but then again its hard to find a parts car in NYC
i want to do the swap, but its alot of money and time i dont have needed. If i can find a parts car i would do it... but then again its hard to find a parts car in NYC
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