Car hesitates at 2000-2500 rpm acceleration? bad coils?
#1
Car hesitates at 2000-2500 rpm acceleration? bad coils?
when im first getting on the highway and accelerating, between like 2000 to 3000 rpm, the car kinda somewhat just pauses as if to think whether to keep climbling anymore and the needle actually just looks like its at a standstill and the car isnt accelerating. I mean its a split second thing, but i can feel the hesitations. Also at a light, the rpms sometime dip low around 600, and the car vibrates. Taking off from a light, the car hesitates sometimes and then catches upto itself at like 2000 rpm. Im wondering if this is the case of coils having gone bad? i have a rusted out muffler and the gaskets around the cat are leaking air, causing bad vacuum pressure there and just making annoying noise. i havent checked for any codes recently but ive always had a check engine light for the infamous evap canistor purge control valve. Car is a 97 with 126k miles, and im late for 120k tune up. Funds are low at the moment.
#2
Originally Posted by NyC97Max
when im first getting on the highway and accelerating, between like 2000 to 3000 rpm, the car kinda somewhat just pauses as if to think whether to keep climbling anymore and the needle actually just looks like its at a standstill and the car isnt accelerating. I mean its a split second thing, but i can feel the hesitations. Also at a light, the rpms sometime dip low around 600, and the car vibrates. Taking off from a light, the car hesitates sometimes and then catches upto itself at like 2000 rpm. Im wondering if this is the case of coils having gone bad? i have a rusted out muffler and the gaskets around the cat are leaking air, causing bad vacuum pressure there and just making annoying noise. i havent checked for any codes recently but ive always had a check engine light for the infamous evap canistor purge control valve. Car is a 97 with 126k miles, and im late for 120k tune up. Funds are low at the moment.
#6
Cool, I started to get this same problem. I'll start with the coil packs, cause my guess would have been injectors or air/fuel judging by how the car hesitates.
Coincidentally I have a 97 Max also. Did 97's have crappy coil packs or is it just time for them to go after 8 or so years?
Coincidentally I have a 97 Max also. Did 97's have crappy coil packs or is it just time for them to go after 8 or so years?
#7
Originally Posted by Wills98MaxSE
how's the beater comin', Neal?
Still runnin. I should probably change the oil in it before winter here. I've had it almost a year now and haven't changed the oil yet hahah neglect.
#8
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Bad coils misfire under a load and sometimes cause popping sounds from the intake.
Fix your exhaust leaks, tune up the car, (plugs, air filter, fuel filter ect) clean the TB, run a bottle of Techron through and try a tank of BP Amoco Ultimate.
Fix your exhaust leaks, tune up the car, (plugs, air filter, fuel filter ect) clean the TB, run a bottle of Techron through and try a tank of BP Amoco Ultimate.
#9
iwould suggest check the TPS sensor.
throtle position sensor.
If the rpm goes up down on the light or while driving i replaced my TPS no more problems.
if you think are your coil packs, then the best way to check them out is on a cold morning. If u have hard time powering the car then it is your coil packs otherwise i suggest the TPS sensor.
good luck.
just my 2 cent worht.
throtle position sensor.
If the rpm goes up down on the light or while driving i replaced my TPS no more problems.
if you think are your coil packs, then the best way to check them out is on a cold morning. If u have hard time powering the car then it is your coil packs otherwise i suggest the TPS sensor.
good luck.
just my 2 cent worht.
#10
Yea ill definately do the tuneup, fix the exhaust, and everything else u listed, and i actually try to clean the throttle body atleast once a year. Ill look into the TPS and KS. Car definately is the worst on really cold mornings. How do coils packs go bad? is it just an age thing, or can it be from the way the car is driven/treated? i mean i do oils changes and maintenance properly and on time, but i drive pretty hard as do most of us here on the org. I just spent 800 on new Ksport coilovers a week ago, so im really broke, suspension was going outta control, car wouldnt hold its ground at 70 mph. Guess ill have to wait on the coils =(
Can having bad coils for a while cause any kinda longterm damage?? are they hard to change on your own??
Can having bad coils for a while cause any kinda longterm damage?? are they hard to change on your own??
#11
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY/Tampa, FL
Posts: 533
Is the check engine light on? I had the same problem you have. Only it jerked everytime it hit 2500-3000 rpms as if it were going to stall but it never did. I checked my check engine code and it turned out it was my mass airflow sensor. If you have a bad airflow sensor it will not let the engine go over something like 2650 rpms. I've gone through 2 in the past year. I'm guessing it's cause of my intake.
#12
nah its not even like a stalling/choking type of feeling, its more of just a power hesitation w/ uneven acceleration throughout the powerband, like a misfiring at certain RPMS. Car just isnt consistent throughout the RPM range like it used to be and it shakes at lights cause the RPMs drop around 600. The other night some stupid kid wanted to gun it against me, and i didnt even bother, and then he cuts me off like a di*k, and so i show him the sound of my CAI, car flew past him, but when i got to the light and stopped the car REALLY fast, the rpms dropped REALLY low(like 300) for a second and it almost seemed as if the car was going to stall but then picked back up, i have an auto btw. Thats when i realized theres something not quite right with my car nowadays. The list of problems can go on. Someone is selling me coils and a KS, 40 shipped for 6 coils and 25 for the KS. Ill see if that fixes that problem.
#13
My car has been doing this. Does it feel like there is something stuck behind the go pedal and you have to stomp it to the floor to get it to go and then it jumps from 2.5K to 3.5K?
My car seems to do it when the car is cold. Should look into new coil packs. I have already run techron through it, has may have helped a little, but it still happens about every 2 days or so.
My car seems to do it when the car is cold. Should look into new coil packs. I have already run techron through it, has may have helped a little, but it still happens about every 2 days or so.
#14
If Nissan is aware of this problem with the coils why haven't they address the problem or offer some kind of assistance on having these things replaced? I'm reading were the problem can come on as early as 40k to any where upwards. This is not good at all.
#15
My 96 Maxima started out having this problem, but now the rpms dip so low on it that it cuts off when I am stopped. I have replaced the temp sensor, the crank sensor, and the ignition switch, not of which has corrected the problem. I think we are having the same problem, so if you car hasn't cut off on you yet, you probably have that to look forward to.
#16
Originally Posted by taylole
My 96 Maxima started out having this problem, but now the rpms dip so low on it that it cuts off when I am stopped. I have replaced the temp sensor, the crank sensor, and the ignition switch, not of which has corrected the problem. I think we are having the same problem, so if you car hasn't cut off on you yet, you probably have that to look forward to.
#17
Ok, but would the coilpacks be causing it to stall out or cut off when I come to a stop or do not have my foot on the accelerator? BTW, my dad owns an auto parts store (but knows very little about foreign cars), so I get everything at cost, thank goodness. Markup on some of this crap is ridiculous.
#21
i get a similar thing that happens to my car.. when i drive at like 30 and let off the accelerator the rpms fall like to 300.. its reals slow when i have a person or two in the car and when i have to go on a highway ramp i almost have to floor it.. the car is generaly SLOW...i have a complete tune up, always run on 93 octane and no MIL light.. wtf!!!
#22
I'm getting the same problem, rpm sticks right at 2500 when accelerating, slower response, seems sluggish. I did my 75k service not too long ago too, including a new KS. Also, codes are clear except for a persistant 0407 which I've never gotten around to fixing. With the coilpacks, is it usually a case of one going bad or is it usually a whole bank?
#23
Sorry for the dumb question but i have the exact same problem that i am working on fixing. I ordered a KS. My codes say that it is the KS and one of my o2 sensors. What are coil packs? And where can i buy a new set? If the KS and o2 dont solve the problem i think i might try the coils...
#26
How many of you are auto maxes? I had a similar problem, then I learned how overdrive works and when to keep it off. Hesitation or the 'no power' feeling is the car being in fourth at the wrong time. Stepping on it - and the need to do so - simply drops it into 3rd, and allocates your power, whereas had you been in 3rd, the power would have been there ready-at-hand... er, foot. Coasting in 4th, then coming to an abrupt stop, will sometimes, especially when cold, lead to a super choppy downshift into 1st gear, almost so bad you think you just broke something. My solution,(other than using synth tranny fluid) is keeping overdrive off until I find myself getting past 2500 rpms in 3rd - or in other words - putting it into 4th gear when need be, and then turning overdrive after some steady speed coasting when I'm coming to a yellow light. SO in short, if you're auto and have this issue, use 3rd to get upto speed, and get out of 4th when preparing to slow down. Try that.
#27
did you read the thread????
Coil packs, knock sensor, O2 sensors, grounds are bad, dont have NGKs..... there are a lot of answers to the vague statement.... Or you could just chalk it up to crappy tranny but I don't buy that.
There also should be like 12 million bijillion more threads about this
Coil packs, knock sensor, O2 sensors, grounds are bad, dont have NGKs..... there are a lot of answers to the vague statement.... Or you could just chalk it up to crappy tranny but I don't buy that.
There also should be like 12 million bijillion more threads about this
#28
'With all things being equal, the easiest solution is usually the best'.
William Ockham
#29
Not crazy talk, I would look here first. I had this problem with my '02 Max. After replacing CATS, spark plugs, O2 sensors, MAF and 2 trips to the stealership and 2 other mechanics it turned out to be a problem with my fuel pump. Listen to your car, its hesitating and seems to have a lack of power. What would cause this? Lack of air and/or lack of fuel. Look there first.
'With all things being equal, the easiest solution is usually the best'.
William Ockham
'With all things being equal, the easiest solution is usually the best'.
William Ockham
#30
when im first getting on the highway and accelerating, between like 2000 to 3000 rpm, the car kinda somewhat just pauses as if to think whether to keep climbling anymore and the needle actually just looks like its at a standstill and the car isnt accelerating. I mean its a split second thing, but i can feel the hesitations. Also at a light, the rpms sometime dip low around 600, and the car vibrates. Taking off from a light, the car hesitates sometimes and then catches upto itself at like 2000 rpm. Im wondering if this is the case of coils having gone bad? i have a rusted out muffler and the gaskets around the cat are leaking air, causing bad vacuum pressure there and just making annoying noise. i havent checked for any codes recently but ive always had a check engine light for the infamous evap canistor purge control valve. Car is a 97 with 126k miles, and im late for 120k tune up. Funds are low at the moment.
However, with the whole 600rpm thing, that's not all that bad (except for the shaking)
Your car should idle at 500rpm's...
But I suppose if your Maxima is a automatic, you shouldn't be idling at a stoplight because you are still in gear. (unlike me)
Haha, so I just guess this addition to this thread was absolutely pointless.
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