Another cold starting question
Another cold starting question
Went to start the Max today and it didn't start the first time out like it usually does. I turned the key, but the engine just kind of stumbled and died. On the second try, I gave it some gas (as if it were carburetored) and it started up and idled fine.
It was in the 40s and rainy last night, and this is the third time in the past week or so that this has happened under similar conditions. I have replaced the fuel filter in the last 4,000 miles, but it seems like the fuel's not getting there right away. I know if I let the gas get too low it will hesitate a bit before it starting up, but the tank's full right now.
You guys think this is something that I need to be concerned with (e.g. bad fuel pump or injectors needing cleaning), or is it just the cold weather gumming up the works. Is there anything I can do to help mitigate the cold weather effects. (I put some dry gas in 1 tank of gas ago)
Any and all advice would be appreciated, thanks!
It was in the 40s and rainy last night, and this is the third time in the past week or so that this has happened under similar conditions. I have replaced the fuel filter in the last 4,000 miles, but it seems like the fuel's not getting there right away. I know if I let the gas get too low it will hesitate a bit before it starting up, but the tank's full right now.
You guys think this is something that I need to be concerned with (e.g. bad fuel pump or injectors needing cleaning), or is it just the cold weather gumming up the works. Is there anything I can do to help mitigate the cold weather effects. (I put some dry gas in 1 tank of gas ago)
Any and all advice would be appreciated, thanks!
Has the throttle body, and/or IACV been cleaned?
Any codes (i.e. is the CEL lit)?
What about things like air filter, PCV valve, etc... any recent/regular maintenance of those items?
The one sensor that may be faulty is the ECTS - but given this is an intermittent problem, my guess is that it's just a dirty IACV.
Any codes (i.e. is the CEL lit)?
What about things like air filter, PCV valve, etc... any recent/regular maintenance of those items?
The one sensor that may be faulty is the ECTS - but given this is an intermittent problem, my guess is that it's just a dirty IACV.
Aha ive had this problem before. Under two different conditions. On the first its exactly like you explained, i replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor and everything is fine. On the other hand it happened to me again when i replaced my tranny, and the cause was a bad ground. Do as i did first and check the fuel pressure to determine whether or not if it is the fuel pump. More than likely its your Coolant Temperature Sensor
Originally Posted by njmodi
Has the throttle body, and/or IACV been cleaned?
Any codes (i.e. is the CEL lit)?
What about things like air filter, PCV valve, etc... any recent/regular maintenance of those items?
The one sensor that may be faulty is the ECTS - but given this is an intermittent problem, my guess is that it's just a dirty IACV.
Any codes (i.e. is the CEL lit)?
What about things like air filter, PCV valve, etc... any recent/regular maintenance of those items?
The one sensor that may be faulty is the ECTS - but given this is an intermittent problem, my guess is that it's just a dirty IACV.
I have never cleaned the IAC valve or the throttle body (are those hard to do?).
Also where is the coolant temperature sensor and is that something easy to replace myself? Just so I am better informed... what does this sensor have to do w/starting the car? Once I gave it some gas on the second start the car was fine, it came up to temperature just as usual.
Originally Posted by SteveWWJ
Nope, no codes... I have replaced all three O2 sensors, the knock sensor, PCV valve, air and fuel filters in last 4k miles.
I have never cleaned the IAC valve or the throttle body (are those hard to do?).
Also where is the coolant temperature sensor and is that something easy to replace myself? Just so I am better informed... what does this sensor have to do w/starting the car? Once I gave it some gas on the second start the car was fine, it came up to temperature just as usual.
I have never cleaned the IAC valve or the throttle body (are those hard to do?).
Also where is the coolant temperature sensor and is that something easy to replace myself? Just so I am better informed... what does this sensor have to do w/starting the car? Once I gave it some gas on the second start the car was fine, it came up to temperature just as usual.
2. The ECTS helps control fuel delivery. When the car is cold, a richer mixture is used. If the ECTS is not correctly reporting temperature readings to the ECU, the ECU may not be using a rich-enough mixture to start the car in the cold weather. The ECTS is located to the right of the front valve cover in the upper radiator metal log/hose. There are two temperature sensors there, one for the gauge, and the ECTS. The ECTS is what you want to replace. It costs 20 bucks and takes 10 mins to replace. No need to drain the coolant first.
I would recommend you get yourself a Haynes manual. They are very useful for all these small repairs, component locations, etc. Cheers.
Originally Posted by SteveWWJ
Thanks for the help njmodi!
Ya, I've avoided buying the Haynes because I've found so much info on the web and hadn't had to deal w/the IACV, TB, or ECTS 'til now, but maybe now I'll pick one.
Ya, I've avoided buying the Haynes because I've found so much info on the web and hadn't had to deal w/the IACV, TB, or ECTS 'til now, but maybe now I'll pick one.
You're not alone. I'm actually experiencing the same exact problem you are. As soon as the car is started, it just stalls (30-40 degree weather). This never happens when its 50+ degree weather. When I give it some gas during startup (30-40 degree weather), the car starts and idles perfectly fine! I have a 96 too. I recently replaced the Spark Plugs, Fuel Filter, PCV Valve, Coolant, Tranny fluid (within the last 4-5k miles too).
I haven't replaced the knock sensor, but I plan on doing this real soon since for some odd reason, my gas mileage went down significantly (just doing normal highway driving too!).
Hopefully I'll try cleaning out the IACV too and see whether the car will start fine in cold weather. If this solves the problem, I'll be a happy guy. Let me know if this solved the problem for you.
I haven't replaced the knock sensor, but I plan on doing this real soon since for some odd reason, my gas mileage went down significantly (just doing normal highway driving too!).
Hopefully I'll try cleaning out the IACV too and see whether the car will start fine in cold weather. If this solves the problem, I'll be a happy guy. Let me know if this solved the problem for you.
Originally Posted by SteveWWJ
Went to start the Max today and it didn't start the first time out like it usually does. I turned the key, but the engine just kind of stumbled and died. On the second try, I gave it some gas (as if it were carburetored) and it started up and idled fine.
It was in the 40s and rainy last night, and this is the third time in the past week or so that this has happened under similar conditions. I have replaced the fuel filter in the last 4,000 miles, but it seems like the fuel's not getting there right away. I know if I let the gas get too low it will hesitate a bit before it starting up, but the tank's full right now.
You guys think this is something that I need to be concerned with (e.g. bad fuel pump or injectors needing cleaning), or is it just the cold weather gumming up the works. Is there anything I can do to help mitigate the cold weather effects. (I put some dry gas in 1 tank of gas ago)
Any and all advice would be appreciated, thanks!
It was in the 40s and rainy last night, and this is the third time in the past week or so that this has happened under similar conditions. I have replaced the fuel filter in the last 4,000 miles, but it seems like the fuel's not getting there right away. I know if I let the gas get too low it will hesitate a bit before it starting up, but the tank's full right now.
You guys think this is something that I need to be concerned with (e.g. bad fuel pump or injectors needing cleaning), or is it just the cold weather gumming up the works. Is there anything I can do to help mitigate the cold weather effects. (I put some dry gas in 1 tank of gas ago)
Any and all advice would be appreciated, thanks!
so I cleaned all the gunk in my throttle body this weekend and looks like it fixed my problem of starting the car and stalling in the cold weather. As soon as my car starts, it idles at 1500rpm for the first minute. Before, the rpm needle would just drop and stall as soon as the car is started.
well, i have a problem w/ my max. it takes along time to crank up, when the car is cold in normal weather(50+). but when it does and the car gets warmed the cranks normal after that. is that he COOLANT TEMP sensor? i also checkd my codes.
P0340-Camshaft positon bank 1
P0150-o2 senor bank 2
P0325-Knock sensor
P0110-IAT senor( what the hell is this sensor)?
SO I DONT KNOW IF I HAVE TO CHANGE ALL THEM SENSORS? do i or what first?
thanxz.
P0340-Camshaft positon bank 1
P0150-o2 senor bank 2
P0325-Knock sensor
P0110-IAT senor( what the hell is this sensor)?
SO I DONT KNOW IF I HAVE TO CHANGE ALL THEM SENSORS? do i or what first?
thanxz.
well, definitely buy a brand new knock sensor, because that usually will go bad on high mileage maximas. mine finally triggered a check engine code of a bad knock sensor + 1 bad O2 sensor on bank 1, so i'm going to replace it this weekend. I'm betting its the knock sensor that is bad and not my O2.
if you're bad O2 sensor code doesn't go away after replacing the knock sensor, then looks like you may need to replace that too. i have no idea what the camshaft and IAT problems mean?
if you're bad O2 sensor code doesn't go away after replacing the knock sensor, then looks like you may need to replace that too. i have no idea what the camshaft and IAT problems mean?
Originally Posted by moogotzskillz2
help yea'll.. it want start... and i dont know what sensor to buy?
Originally Posted by njmodi
1. Yes, cleaning the TB and IACV are easy. If you can replace O2 sensors and knock sensors, you can definitely clean both. Check www.motorvate.ca (I believe he might have instructions on the TB cleaning). The IACV cleaning is in the stickies.
2. The ECTS helps control fuel delivery. When the car is cold, a richer mixture is used. If the ECTS is not correctly reporting temperature readings to the ECU, the ECU may not be using a rich-enough mixture to start the car in the cold weather. The ECTS is located to the right of the front valve cover in the upper radiator metal log/hose. There are two temperature sensors there, one for the gauge, and the ECTS. The ECTS is what you want to replace. It costs 20 bucks and takes 10 mins to replace. No need to drain the coolant first.
I would recommend you get yourself a Haynes manual. They are very useful for all these small repairs, component locations, etc. Cheers.
2. The ECTS helps control fuel delivery. When the car is cold, a richer mixture is used. If the ECTS is not correctly reporting temperature readings to the ECU, the ECU may not be using a rich-enough mixture to start the car in the cold weather. The ECTS is located to the right of the front valve cover in the upper radiator metal log/hose. There are two temperature sensors there, one for the gauge, and the ECTS. The ECTS is what you want to replace. It costs 20 bucks and takes 10 mins to replace. No need to drain the coolant first.
I would recommend you get yourself a Haynes manual. They are very useful for all these small repairs, component locations, etc. Cheers.
Sorry, dont mean to highjack the thread, figured this question was ontopic to your problem...
Have you tried.....
About 6 months ago, I had problem in the heat with starting and I read through the forums and found someone with a similar problem. They suggested changing the ignition coil. So for $35, I did. No problems starting hot or cold. Just a though....
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