hard starting - problem solved
#1
hard starting - problem solved
Hi guys,
Follow up of http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=439966
I took the car to the dealer... again. They did a lot of testings on my car and found nothing wrong with the harness, sensors and ECU. So they asked to replace my new reman starter (8 teeth) with their OEM reman starter (11 teeth...400Cad).
Aparently that was the problem. Now the car starts like a new one. That cost me 850Cad (4.5 hours + starter + taxes)
I have spent also 150Cad on CkPS (ref) and ETCS... that I don't need them
Follow up of http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=439966
I took the car to the dealer... again. They did a lot of testings on my car and found nothing wrong with the harness, sensors and ECU. So they asked to replace my new reman starter (8 teeth) with their OEM reman starter (11 teeth...400Cad).
Aparently that was the problem. Now the car starts like a new one. That cost me 850Cad (4.5 hours + starter + taxes)
I have spent also 150Cad on CkPS (ref) and ETCS... that I don't need them
#2
Too bad I didn't see this thread earlier... could have helped you. Non Nissan starters will cause problems on the 4th gens. Not the same cranking speed etc... I have a friend who replaced hers with an aftermarket brand and sure enough, 0407 codes etc. Luckily for her the car still starts, although not as nicely.
#3
Originally Posted by a3gus
Hi guys,
Follow up of http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=439966
I took the car to the dealer... again. They did a lot of testings on my car and found nothing wrong with the harness, sensors and ECU. So they asked to replace my new reman starter (8 teeth) with their OEM reman starter (11 teeth...400Cad).
Aparently that was the problem. Now the car starts like a new one. That cost me 850Cad (4.5 hours + starter + taxes)
I have spent also 150Cad on CkPS (ref) and ETCS... that I don't need them
Follow up of http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=439966
I took the car to the dealer... again. They did a lot of testings on my car and found nothing wrong with the harness, sensors and ECU. So they asked to replace my new reman starter (8 teeth) with their OEM reman starter (11 teeth...400Cad).
Aparently that was the problem. Now the car starts like a new one. That cost me 850Cad (4.5 hours + starter + taxes)
I have spent also 150Cad on CkPS (ref) and ETCS... that I don't need them
#6
Glad you solved your problem a3gus. I am gonna pull out my new/rebuilt starter and count the teeth. I'm pretty sure it's a remanufactured Nissan but I'm gonna check that too. I read the TSB about the upgrade starter for 95 cars with compression problems, but the TSB said the 96 cars had the upgraded starter. is there another TSB? This new engine did have one low compression cylinder but it runs so good once you jump start it I'm gonna retest. I don't think my first test was accurate.
What a ordeal. I have wasted a bucket of money and time but I'll still be ahead if I get this running right. Total cost will be about $1000.00 (includes$400 for the engine), but that's ok I guess if I get a reliable car out of this.
Film at 11:00.
Jon
What a ordeal. I have wasted a bucket of money and time but I'll still be ahead if I get this running right. Total cost will be about $1000.00 (includes$400 for the engine), but that's ok I guess if I get a reliable car out of this.
Film at 11:00.
Jon
#9
Shops charge hours listed for a particular service, regardless of how long they actually spend on the job. So if "the book" calls for 4.5hrs labor on the starter, you get charged for 4.5hrs, even if they do it in 3mins. And trust me, they make a killing on shortcuts to save time and charge you book labor. Just to be fair, they are trying to make a living on services.
#10
Shops charge hours listed for a particular service, regardless of how long they actually spend on the job. So if "the book" calls for 4.5hrs labor on the starter, you get charged for 4.5hrs, even if they do it in 3mins. And trust me, they make a killing on shortcuts to save time and charge you book labor. Just to be fair, they are trying to make a living on services.
:O
#11
Yes I know
Originally Posted by Niznos
Shops charge hours listed for a particular service, regardless of how long they actually spend on the job. So if "the book" calls for 4.5hrs labor on the starter, you get charged for 4.5hrs, even if they do it in 3mins. And trust me, they make a killing on shortcuts to save time and charge you book labor. Just to be fair, they are trying to make a living on services.
Anyone done it?
#14
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Takes me ~ 15 minutes ....
2damax- why do u need a breaker bar weakling
#17
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally Posted by Niznos
Shops charge hours listed for a particular service, regardless of how long they actually spend on the job. So if "the book" calls for 4.5hrs labor on the starter, you get charged for 4.5hrs, even if they do it in 3mins. And trust me, they make a killing on shortcuts to save time and charge you book labor. Just to be fair, they are trying to make a living on services.
Same applies for the collision repair industry. All the billing is computer controlled, and the software development is driven by your insurance company.
#20
So I took my new/rebuilt starter back to the parts store and they exchanged it for a 10 tooth rebuilt (it doesn't say Nissan on it). No difference, still coding 0407. Will a "Nissan" starter make so much difference that a car that won't start at all will suddenly get better or should I still be looking for another problem? Can anyone point me to the TSB that speaks to all this.
Jon
Jon
#24
Originally Posted by maxman12
Thats what we're trying to find out. Is the 11 tooth starter an upgrade/ remedy for anyone having starting problems? The parts store doesn't even list a 11 tooth unit.
#25
You sure it's 11 toothed? I've only heard of 8 and 10 for our cars. oem starters really don't say "nissan" but a small nissan emblem outline is seen in the metal case. I think oem is hitachi but don't quote me.
#28
Anyone know if you can just replace the 8 tooth drive on the starter with a 10 tooth or do you have to buy a whole new starter?
Also, are there any interface problems with the flywheel when changing from an 8 to a 10 tooth?
I just removed the starter on my 95' and counted 8 teeth.
Also, are there any interface problems with the flywheel when changing from an 8 to a 10 tooth?
I just removed the starter on my 95' and counted 8 teeth.
#29
I've never heard of anyone even selling the starter drive separately. I think your best bet would be to just get a rebuilt starter. Autozone has them and there is a lifetime warranty. On the off-chance they give you an 8tooth starter, just tell them you want a different one (without even installing it). There is no problem inserting a 10 tooth starter in 1995s and those 1996 that had the 8 tooth one.
#31
OK, I replaced my starter about 2 months ago. The symptom I'm getting is... Crank, slow start, sometimes feels like it's not getting enough power, but 3 year old Optima red top tests good...
Suggestions????
Thanks,
Suggestions????
Thanks,
#33
Originally Posted by crsdsabers
OK, I replaced my starter about 2 months ago. The symptom I'm getting is... Crank, slow start, sometimes feels like it's not getting enough power, but 3 year old Optima red top tests good...
Suggestions????
Thanks,
Suggestions????
Thanks,
Check starter again. ..
#34
Its the Grounds
My 96 was in the shop for 3 weeks, tried fuel pump, ignition switch, new ground for fuelpump. Finally after the called two Nissan Techs, a new ground for the engine solved the cranking issue. Apparently the grounds on the Maxima's are notorious for going bad (especially the one to the transmission). Getting ready to drop off my 95 to have them re-done, since they know exactly where they are and time(labor) will be down to a minimum. (Also, the bad ground shorted out my MAF) ouch.
#36
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I did mine for 8$ and 20 minutes ...
Tranny ground is kind of a piddly cable. Looked fine to me but maybe it's oxidized in the jacket. Just wondering if replacing it did anything for you.
#37
Well, my car was dead in a casino parking lot due to dead gnds.. So yeah.. it helped.
Originally Posted by Mishmosh
^^^ did it help?
Tranny ground is kind of a piddly cable. Looked fine to me but maybe it's oxidized in the jacket. Just wondering if replacing it did anything for you.
Tranny ground is kind of a piddly cable. Looked fine to me but maybe it's oxidized in the jacket. Just wondering if replacing it did anything for you.
#38
Does anyone have any more info on the ground wires such as a write up or pictures? I searched the FSM but couldn't find anything. What are the part numbers of the new wires? I plan to work on my hard starting problem this weekend - hopefully the starter/ground wires will fix my problem.
#40
Check the ground on top of the front bank valve cover(2-3 small black wires grounded under a screw), the main ground from battery to frame to engine block (the heavy black cable) and the ground from the top of the tranny to the frame just behind the battery. I won't hurt to take them all apart and sand or wire brush everything, even if they all look good.
Hope this helps.
Jon
Hope this helps.
Jon