hard starting - problem solved

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12-14-2005, 04:52 PM

#41

02RIMax

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I have a 16 gauge wire on the frame of the car near the starter and I dont know what it goes to. The connector looks like this:

Does anybody have a clue what this is???

12-14-2005, 06:12 PM

#42

Mishmosh

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Tranny ground?

12-15-2005, 05:01 PM

#43

maxman12

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The tranny ground is a single conductor black wire with a single spade type end. I doubt that is your ground.
Automatic or manual?

12-15-2005, 05:42 PM

#44

Mishmosh

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Not sure what the 3 dots are but my tranny ground connector has that exact shape. Single 16 ga black wire from driver's side frame which incidently inserts on the tranny just behind and below the starter.

12-15-2005, 05:57 PM

#45

crsdsabers

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Quote:
Originally Posted by crsdsabers
OK, I replaced my starter about 2 months ago. The symptom I'm getting is... Crank, slow start, sometimes feels like it's not getting enough power, but 3 year old Optima red top tests good...

Suggestions????

Thanks,

CPS

Check starter again. ..

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[B]OK, went to O'reilly's tonight, where i bought the reman starter that's on the max now. they did a "draw down test" on my starter and said it was out of spec and they'd replace under warranty. I guess it'll just cost me the 15 minutes required to change it again.

12-15-2005, 06:09 PM

#46

MAXRB8

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Here's an old thread on this exact problem, there is a "heavy duty" one that has 10 teeth, the old has 8 teeth.

Read this old thread, gets quite funny regarding the grammar!

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....9&page=1&pp=30

12-16-2005, 06:00 PM

#47

maxman12

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Are you putting out the dreaded 0407 code?

12-17-2005, 12:02 PM

#48

maxman12

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FINALLY IT STARTS.........
We went to the junkyard and for $36.00 took a chance on a used starter, the 11 tooth one. Sure enough, starts every time. The original starter from the blown engine wouldn't do it, the rebuilt 8 and then 10 tooth starter wouldn't do it. Part number is 23300-2Y900, it's made by Hitachi and it has 11 teeth. DON'T USE ANYTHING ELSE.
This was a project that started last May, replacing a blown engine in a 96 with a used 98 block. I never have had a project go so badly but tomorrow I will tidy up the wiring, check everything and slam the hood for the last time.....

Jon

12-17-2005, 01:32 PM

#49

02RIMax

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Yeah...I just looked at my car when I got home today that connector is the tranny ground. I took out my starter and brought it to Autozone to get tested and it turned out to be bad, either it was bad out of the box or from cranking so much. I had the guy test the new one just to make sure. Gotta love lifetime warranties!

12-17-2005, 01:56 PM

#50

LuXXXz

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ok guys i have a question for you
Ok my parents have a 1995 nissan maxima gxe
and that ***** wont start
my pops went to autozone and they said the starter is ok, the battery is brand new.
The wires and fuses seem to be ok
what could be the problem, there is just a tick when we try to turn it over, and also there is power
anyone know what else to check for???

12-17-2005, 01:58 PM

#51

Mishmosh

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Lux: sounds like the ignition switch in the steering column. An easy $25 fix.

12-17-2005, 01:59 PM

#52

LuXXXz

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mishmosh ill check it out

12-17-2005, 02:00 PM

#53

LuXXXz

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is that a dealer item or autozone will have it??

12-17-2005, 02:07 PM

#54

Mishmosh

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Typically cheaper oem online.
Some good info with pics here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=200696

12-19-2005, 05:38 PM

#55

LuXXXz

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ok guys thanks for the info
and it was the starter even though the fuken idiots at autozone tested it and said it was ok

12-19-2005, 08:13 PM

#56

moogotzskillz2

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i'm having this problem. my max wont start at all it keeps turning over and backfires, and feels like it wants to start but it cant. my CEL codes are. 1-camshaft postion sensor, 2-knock sensor, 3-02 sensor, 4, IAT sensor..

i dont now where to start, the only way it starts is that i push start it. (5spd). then when it gets warm it starts normal, *like after 2 times* WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM???????

12-20-2005, 04:35 PM

#57

maxman12

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Download the engine control section of the factory manual that can be found in the stickies at the top of this forum. It lists all the codes and how to troubleshoot. Backfiring is usually an indication of a timing problem, does it run normally once started?
If everything checks out change the starter. Use a OEM starter, 11 tooth unit, 23300-2Y900. These engines have to spin real good to send a good timing signal to the brain and many seem to have trouble with the starters.
Hope this helps,
Jon

12-20-2005, 05:31 PM

#58

moogotzskillz2

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it runs perfectly when its on.... i took out the starter today, to regrease it, and it need it, and mine was a NISSAN 8thooth starter, it hat the HItATCHI one?

need help plz...............

12-20-2005, 07:12 PM

#59

Mishmosh

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Moo,

While I'm sure the 11-tooth starter would help you, that does not change the fact that you have a bunch of codes that need sorting out. Those codes are not there because of anything to do with the starter.

If I were you, I'd reset the ecu and see if the same codes come back. I definitely would not replace the knock sensor one unless you see it's code appear by itself (typically without the CEL)--it sometimes appears as a ghost code when other codes are present. The camshaft sensor is a big one for starting. The IAT (intake air temp?) and O2 sensor I wouldn't think would be.

I think any time you are cranking for a while or repeatedly, you are going to get some backfire from excess fuel.

12-20-2005, 07:21 PM

#60

moogotzskillz2

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but, what kind of sensor would work good, when its warm.. and then after it cools it doesn't. is that what happens when a camshaft goes bad?
and what is a camshaft for????

thankz mish

12-20-2005, 07:27 PM

#61

Mishmosh

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A bad engine coolant temperature sensor will make the car hard to start when cold and better when warm (according to most). However, you don't have the code for it and even if it were bad and not spitting out a code, it does not produces the list of codes you have. Basically, if the codes keep on recurring, I would have to consider one or more of them valid. The camshaft and crank sensors are used for timing--car would not start if any of them were faulty (try unplugging one and see if the car starts!).