trouble removing cv joint! help please.
#1
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trouble removing cv joint! help please.
i took my car appart and got to the part where i need to get the inner part of the cv joint out of the tranny. i cant get it out! i have tryed using a screw driver and everything but it will not come out. what do i do?
#2
What side is it? Driver side should slide right out, passenger side you have to remove some retaining bolts. See motorvate.ca website for more details or reference your Chilton's/Haynes manual.
#6
Once all three (3) bolts have been loosened give a good yank. The only thing you need to be worried about is the axle seal and surrounding areas but if you give it a few straight out yanks you should be able to pull it out.
I held by the boot and it took about three pulls of increasing force to get it out.
I held by the boot and it took about three pulls of increasing force to get it out.
#8
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geeze do u guys bench like 400 pounds cuz we are pulling our hardest and it isnt budging. any other suggestions. i even took out the shocks and still no luck. im bout to pull that thing out with my quad, how about that? lol please help.
#10
You can't rely on brute force alone. Try twisting it at the same time. You need one person prying it where the bracket is (where it screws into the tranny) and one person pulling and twisting. Came out very easily when I did mine three days ago. If there's only one person, then get under the car and pry it out until you think it's out. Then go on the outside and pull it and twist it. Should come out that way. Are you sure you removed the three SCREWS? Where the axle connects the the transmission there is a triangle shaped bracket. At each point that has a screw in it, which is basically what's holding it to the transmission. Screw those out and you'll be golden. That same bracket is where you should be prying it out. And no, I bench 350 pounds.
#13
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dude i hit it everywhere, my friend is coming over to look at it when he gets done. its been like a cv joint removal party here, we have 3 people on it and still no luck. maybe the fourth person will do the trick lol. what is the "sweet spot" for hitting it? if there is one that is.
#14
It shouldn't be beastly strength, just a bit of muscle.
Is it possible to take the DS out and tap the axle from the DS through the hole on the 5 speed?? If it looked like nothing was working I would look into that.
Is it possible to take the DS out and tap the axle from the DS through the hole on the 5 speed?? If it looked like nothing was working I would look into that.
#15
I'm having the same problem only we can't get the drivers side to come out. Tried pulling a lot on it and using a big pry bar at the point where the axle goes into the trans. but it wouldn't budge. Didn't use a mallet on the pry bar yet but any ideas what would make it so hard to remove since it's supposed to slide right out?
#17
After ther three little bolts are out. loosen the outer tie rod from the hub. stick the axle back into the hub, kinda put the hub nut back and tighten it by hand. Now use the hub as leverage, first push the hub all the way IN then give it a quick/hard pull.
#18
Originally Posted by gto400no1
i took my car appart and got to the part where i need to get the inner part of the cv joint out of the tranny. i cant get it out! i have tryed using a screw driver and everything but it will not come out. what do i do?
Take a sharpened chisel and hammer at the split in this housing. The corrosion will make it difficult, but eventually you will be able to separate it.
Dave
#20
The first time I had to take mine apart, I smacked the crap outta it. Barely started a gap if at all. Eventually decided to get destructive and put a flat impact chisel on the end of an air hammer, put the blade into what little gap if at all there was, pulled the trigger and watched the air hammer abuse the axle. Once the air hammer chiselled the two pieces apart a little, a couple more whacks with a 5 pound stubby sledge and it was all good. No real damage. In fact, I did more damage smacking it off the remaining bit than I did chiselling it apart with the air hammer.
BTW, ever since then, I ALWAYS antiseize the bracket before install, even on new axles that I get before I install. For obvious reasons. After that, and when the 3 bolts come apart, it separates like it's supposed to.
BTW, ever since then, I ALWAYS antiseize the bracket before install, even on new axles that I get before I install. For obvious reasons. After that, and when the 3 bolts come apart, it separates like it's supposed to.
#22
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well guys thanks for the help, but i gave up, its just too cold to work out there anymore and i just cant get the car as high up as i need. i took it to a shop that my buddys dad works for and his boss is going to fix it for me.
#23
You guys have to remember that some max's are more corroded than others.
I tried what 2 Da Max is talking about and it didn't work. I tried wd-40 as well as pb blaster. It's really a tight spot and if your max is corroded as mine banging on it won't get you anywhere while it's still mounted on your car.
I know you already sent it in, but what I did was remove the piece that holds it on the engine block. It's much easier to access the bolts to this piece anyway and then it will come out. After that then you can give a some real good whacks with a heavy hammer when the whole assmebly is off the car. It took me a good 10 times or so.
For this so called 1 hour job took me almost a whole day. Next time it won't (even though I have a lifetime warranty on these raxle axles). I feel your pain though.
I tried what 2 Da Max is talking about and it didn't work. I tried wd-40 as well as pb blaster. It's really a tight spot and if your max is corroded as mine banging on it won't get you anywhere while it's still mounted on your car.
I know you already sent it in, but what I did was remove the piece that holds it on the engine block. It's much easier to access the bolts to this piece anyway and then it will come out. After that then you can give a some real good whacks with a heavy hammer when the whole assmebly is off the car. It took me a good 10 times or so.
For this so called 1 hour job took me almost a whole day. Next time it won't (even though I have a lifetime warranty on these raxle axles). I feel your pain though.
#24
Sin, I agree with you 100% with the antiseize, especially when living in the rust belt. I like your air impact hammer approach.
gto400, you might have spent $20 and sent the car to a garage, ask them to separate the bearing only. With the car up on the lift, and plenty of room to swing a hammer, or using the impact hammer, a mechanic could have separated the parts in a few minutes.
It's good to use your local mechanic for torch cutting exhaust screws, other rusted screws and nuts, loosening 36mm axle nut, and the like.
gto400, you might have spent $20 and sent the car to a garage, ask them to separate the bearing only. With the car up on the lift, and plenty of room to swing a hammer, or using the impact hammer, a mechanic could have separated the parts in a few minutes.
It's good to use your local mechanic for torch cutting exhaust screws, other rusted screws and nuts, loosening 36mm axle nut, and the like.
#27
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Did you unbolt the bracket from the block, or did you unbolt the axle and bearing from the bracket?
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