2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

Whatever lastnight i installed my 2nd auto tranny, well actually the 3rd one the car has had.. whatever. car started fine and was a beast last night. The tranny was shifting fine, the car had tremendous amount of power. I have been driving it for about an hour last nigt with no problems

I went to NYCbubbas house and when i was leaving i tried starting the car, but it gave me a bad start, lke a cold start as if the battery was bad. what ever i kept cranking until car started. then i was on my way. car was runnin fine.

this morning had to go to school and study for final, the ****en car doesnt want to start... I tried everything

i got a jump, but nothing, rpms just jumped from 1k to 2k and car kept cranking. i did this about 10 times.

next i took off the intake and sprayed throttle body cleaner inside, and cranked. when i cranked there was a big flame and the car started for a second so cool.

then i cranked, but like a dicckhead i kept hitting the gas and i kind of flooded up the engine. so i took out the spark plugs, put a screwdriver in one of the coil packs and cranked for 2 seconds. the car started for about 1.5 seconds and died completely. next i took out all the dammm spark plugs, and it was dirty with fuel on it

so i scrubbed the dirty fuel off the spark plugs and then started the car without the 3 spark plugs. The fuel shot out of the motor as if i were purging with nos. so all the fuel was completely out of the spark plug sockets

sometimes when i cranked the car would backfire, so i took out the fuel filter fuse and the car would turnover for llike a half a second and cut off, so i did this before i took out the sparkplugs to get all the fuel out..

still nothing

next i took off the crank shaft position sensor and cleaned it out, and nothing again..

so finally i took my friends battery and put it in my car, and it doest start, like i would hear it back fire if i crank for too long..

so i give up, i checked all the wires and terminals, everything is good. this morning i checked for codes, but it was old codes from the old tranny.

My maf is good, im getting spark, and im getting fuel. i did a oilchange with seafoam, and chevron techron about 3miles ago. literally 3 miles ago until my tranny blew..

knock sensor changed 10k miles ago, with o2 sensor, got ngk Plats with 7k miles on it

i changed everything on this car except for coolant temp sesnsor, but i doubt that is it

fix the tranny car started that night and drove well, now it doesnt start at all..p.o.s max, someone help me before i burn this ****.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Damn maan.

Sounds like a timing issue. Did you check both crank sensors? Did you check the Cam sensor also? (side of the timing case)?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Might be the seafoam.

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

Cam sensor? what does that do? uhm.. i havent checked it..

NmeXMAX, the car was drving well with it. I drove 2 weeks with the car after seafoam, oilchange, pcv change, and chevron techron.

Any other thoghts? i give up with this car...

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Cam sensor- is to detect the top dead center for each cylinder. If this sensor is bad the car wont start. I've read it happened to many others, they chanced the senor and problem solved. I hope its that simple for you.

Test it with a multi meter. Resistance (in ohms) should be

1,440 to 1,760 (@ 68 degrees... I know it must be much colder than that now) - for a hitachi sensor.

2,090 to 2,550 (@ 68 degrees) mitsubishi made sensor. I'm not sure which sensor you have, but see if its in spec for either of the categories.

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

try to clear the ecu and try to check again. My guess is maybe the crank sensor check the wiring on it.

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

i checked and clean the crank sensor bro.


so Mdeezy by the timing chain?

Jason R

iTrader: (39)

yea higher up near the top of the timing chain cover.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

is ur computer running ok.... and check the coolant temp sensor too...

shavedmax

iTrader: (6)

crank or cam sensor probably. my friend's did the same, but his computer threw out a code

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

What is up with all the starting issues with people getting tranny swaps or clutch jobs? Surely sensors don't go bad simply because the tranny was dropped.

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

You my friend are correct

i found out the problem... im going to have to drop the tranny..
yes you heard me, drop the tranny again in this 6 degree weather. im going to kill myself.

the problem is, i was suppose to buff the bellhousing and TC .. some shiet my dads friend said about oxidation and grounding out the car..

neways im going to burn this shiet since it took me 2 days in the ****en cold to drop the tranny and put another one in...

i did not get anycodes either....

kc10fish

iTrader: (1)

i know it sounds - well not right but try the TPS first. ck it - just a dart.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

I would check the codes and then the fpr.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Dont forget to put your long johns on

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

yea it sucks but friday night im going to have to drop the tranny again

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

okay, if that were the problem, you could just MAKE A GROUND connecting a bolt from the engine to the tranny, instead of dropping the tranny again. I'm almost positive it's not that you have to buff the bellhousing. And also, buffing the OUTSIDE would do the same, because it would be metal to metal contact. I'll definitely be able to help you out if you need it. Give me a call later and i'll try to figure it out.

Also, make sure the starter is grounded properly.

-Freddy

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

and, if you can, take a video and post it online of what the car sounds like when it's trying to start.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Is 2 Da Max's Maxima 5 speed?

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

automagic....

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Not the first time I've heard that you have to sand the mating surfaces. It just doesn't seem right that all along the mating surface, you aren't getting some kind of good grounding. The tranny side does have the grounding wire, but it is a relatively small 16-18 ga wire. I am also wondering why the tranny has to have good grounding--is the starter grounded through it's case? The crank POS sensor is plastic bodied. Not sure what other sensor would be affected by better grounding through the mating surfaces. Also, although it has been recommended on the org before, I'm not sure anyone has reported that cleaning up the mating surfaces fixed their starting problem. For me, I have tried just about everything and already spent a wad sensor swapping--may have to try this in the warm season.

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

well the starter is geting power so i know its grounded well.

My dads friend had the same problem he told me. he said he did the swap and car ran fine, then it didnt want to start. he spend alot of money changing all the sensors, and starters etc. when he took the tranny off, he saw there was alot of oxidation around the bellhousing.he took a scouring pad and sanded it lightly and then buffed it. it started right away.

So Freddy if i put aground wire to the block to the tranny it should be good?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

That story is a perfect example of why I never replace parts without knowing for sure, stuff like that happens every now and then, a mysterious problem that is caused by something so simple and out of the ordinary that it is very easy to overlook. I read somewhere on here about a guy replacing a clutch when he really had water in the gas, that's another good example.
If I were you I would borrow or buy a multimeter (if you don't already have one) and stick one probe to the block and the other to the tranny and measure the resistance, then I'd do the same for the body to the battery-, and the block and tranny to the battery-, and the battery and starter connections. If all grounds and connections are good, I would then check the water level in the battery, charge it overnight, then test the specific gravity of each cell, then load test the battery.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

It seems like your found a good fix for your car problems.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=445813

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I believe the problem needs to happen a couple times in a row before it will post a code.

For me, the CmPS no-start problem was intermittent and fixed by simply pulling the key and trying again. Once it got more persistent, I got a code. (CmPS and Knock S). If the computer thinks the CmPS isn't working, replace it even if it tests out ok with the resistance test.

Dave

crazy97

iTrader: (1)

Mine is doing the same god damn thing after a clutch job. Ran good for a few days and now it starts like crap.