Doing BRAKES on a 97... How bought the rears?
12-15-2005, 02:46 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
Help with shims...
I will be doing brakes this weekend or shall I say the upcoming. I just have a few questions.
** EDITED.
THe shims kit for the front comes w/ 4 black ones and 2 smaller ones that are silver that sit inside the shims themselves.
My question is, do I double up the shims for the side the PISTON pushes on?
Here are some pics.
do i need the silver colored shims? if so which side does it go? the pads w/ the prongs? or not?
** EDITED.
THe shims kit for the front comes w/ 4 black ones and 2 smaller ones that are silver that sit inside the shims themselves.
My question is, do I double up the shims for the side the PISTON pushes on?
Here are some pics.
do i need the silver colored shims? if so which side does it go? the pads w/ the prongs? or not?
12-15-2005, 05:45 AM
#4
go to advanced auto (or where ever) and get the caliper piston tool. Its a square that fits on a 3/8's drive rachet. This will let you twist your rear piston back into the caliper much easier. This tool is ~$10 or less.
12-15-2005, 10:45 AM
#7
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 113
Fishyman- The shim kit was about $25.00 when I got it a few years ago.
I can't remember if that was for both ends or just one. If you have
the o.e.m. metal shims in place , you can usually just clean them up
and reuse them.
I do my rear brakes about every 80,000 miles and my fronts
about every 25,000 miles. The fronts wear 3 times faster, but
even so I replace them well before they are shot, as I have lifetime
warranty on the pads.
I've always just turned in the rear pistons with a needle nose pliers,
but $10.00 for the right tool is probably safer and easier.
I suggest you carefully pry the rubber boot free in its groove on the
rear pistons so you don't rip it, as you screw in the piston.(they tend
to stick).
Also- make sure your caliper pins are completely free and the rubber
boots on the pins are not damaged.
clean up everything with brake cleaner AND ALWAYS use some anti-
squeal compound on the backs of the new pads.
I can't remember if that was for both ends or just one. If you have
the o.e.m. metal shims in place , you can usually just clean them up
and reuse them.
I do my rear brakes about every 80,000 miles and my fronts
about every 25,000 miles. The fronts wear 3 times faster, but
even so I replace them well before they are shot, as I have lifetime
warranty on the pads.
I've always just turned in the rear pistons with a needle nose pliers,
but $10.00 for the right tool is probably safer and easier.
I suggest you carefully pry the rubber boot free in its groove on the
rear pistons so you don't rip it, as you screw in the piston.(they tend
to stick).
Also- make sure your caliper pins are completely free and the rubber
boots on the pins are not damaged.
clean up everything with brake cleaner AND ALWAYS use some anti-
squeal compound on the backs of the new pads.
12-15-2005, 11:08 AM
#9
Maybe I just got lucky, but it really wasn't that hard to use needle nose pliers to twist the calipers back in...It took just a few short seconds to get the hang of how to hold the pliers in one hand so that the "jaws" wouldn't move, but all in all, it was easy. That was the first time ever attempting brakes, my dad never worked on his own cars so my Maxima was my test.
12-15-2005, 11:40 AM
#11
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
How much easier can it get? Explain this kit ...
One of my rear calipers went in with no problem, the other after 1 day or so I gave up and brought it to my mechanic, he had to use an air tool to get it to retract.
That being said, if you get in a situation when they don't want to retract...it sucks.
12-15-2005, 11:46 AM
#12
Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
have you done it?
One of my rear calipers went in with no problem, the other after 1 day or so I gave up and brought it to my mechanic, he had to use an air tool to get it to retract.
That being said, if you get in a situation when they don't want to retract...it sucks.
One of my rear calipers went in with no problem, the other after 1 day or so I gave up and brought it to my mechanic, he had to use an air tool to get it to retract.
That being said, if you get in a situation when they don't want to retract...it sucks.
If the b!tch doesn't retract, you need a new caliper, or a rebuild kit ...
12-15-2005, 12:49 PM
#13
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
No, never, I just sit here and act like I have.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
If the b!tch doesn't retract, you need a new caliper, or a rebuild kit ...
12-15-2005, 01:29 PM
#14
Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
Oh that's right on the 4th gen forum that NEVER happens..
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
No, never, I just sit here and act like I have
Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
Yes but it did retract, so are you a mechanic or are you just sitting there and acting like one?
Since you know rear A32/33/33B brakes, I guess you're just more knowledgeable than me at this rear caliper stuff.
12-15-2005, 04:49 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
Thanks. I called the dealership and BOTH shims kit are on back order. SHOOTS. I will ask them how long it takes and decide. Their kits come with the clips too.
What I meant to do was do the front, change rotors to new and new pads and clean and add grease to the areas and etc. Then after a week or whatever do the rears. All this depends on the time and availability of my schedule.
For the rears, do I really need to change the rotors or can I get by with just doing the pads? I am only about 70k or so in mileage.
I guess I'll have to wait for the SHIMS, I hope they don't DELAY.
I really want to replace most of what I can replace. I noticed that 1 of the calipers had some black crap on it.
What I meant to do was do the front, change rotors to new and new pads and clean and add grease to the areas and etc. Then after a week or whatever do the rears. All this depends on the time and availability of my schedule.
For the rears, do I really need to change the rotors or can I get by with just doing the pads? I am only about 70k or so in mileage.
I guess I'll have to wait for the SHIMS, I hope they don't DELAY.
I really want to replace most of what I can replace. I noticed that 1 of the calipers had some black crap on it.
12-15-2005, 05:23 PM
#16
Originally Posted by FishyMan
For the rears, do I really need to change the rotors or can I get by with just doing the pads?
12-16-2005, 05:23 AM
#17
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
So...what does that have to do with -->
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Since you know rear A32/33/33B brakes, I guess you're just more knowledgeable than me at this rear caliper stuff.
Fishy, I do agree with NmexMAX, get the rear rotors checked for thickness you might as well if your going to replace the pads anyway.
12-16-2005, 06:01 PM
#20
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
How much easier can it get? Explain this kit ...
u know the front caliper toos they have...its got that piece thats like a backing plate that rest on the "outside" pad spots....and then the one end that acutally contacts the piston....its basically similar to that but have changeable ends for different cars and spins the piston in.......a little easier than ther block with a rachet...its more for guys that do brakes everyday
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
1st one is the newer fords...second one is the universal kit....the first one shows the product better....autozone has NON-Snapon ones they rent...well the ones around me do.....they only stock like one and sometimes places like monro and midas rent them and never return them
12-20-2005, 05:16 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
Originally Posted by 7jackmack
AsthmaMax11 - Shims are very important , as is anti -squeal compound
- if you want nice, quiet brakes!
The best shims are the Nissan shims.
- if you want nice, quiet brakes!
The best shims are the Nissan shims.
I got my shims today. I will be using them on the PBR/AXISS pads. I heard that the antisqueel stuff will wear out overtime. Do you think using those hi temp grease will be better?
Exactly where to i apply the grease? Behind pads and behind shims?
Thanks.
12-20-2005, 08:48 PM
#22
Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 103
Cheaper alternative - Use harborfreight tools
I have used them. They are the best bang for the buck, and are very durable.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732
Link to the tool.
Manish
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732
Link to the tool.
Manish
12-21-2005, 12:41 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 518
The black shims go against the metal back of the pad. 4 shims for 4 pads. The silver shims go on top of the black shim on the inside pad. The inside pad is the pad on the piston side. Pay attention to the cut on the silver shim. You want to make sure the cut side is pointing up. The best way is to take a look at your current pad to see how the sliver shim is installed. Note that the silver shims are not interchangeable. If this one does not fit this side, use the other one.
12-21-2005, 12:45 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
Originally Posted by UncleMax98
The black shims go against the metal back of the pad. 4 shims for 4 pads. The silver shims go on top of the black shim on the inside pad. The inside pad is the pad on the piston side. Pay attention to the cut on the silver shim. You want to make sure the cut side is pointing up. The best way is to take a look at your current pad to see how the sliver shim is installed. Note that the silver shims are not interchangeable. If this one does not fit this side, use the other one.
I kinda get it, so the pictures I had was wrong. So regarding the grease, do I put it between the silver/black and behind pads?
Thanks.
12-21-2005, 04:28 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 518
Some people may say you don't need grease if you have shims. But I always put a thin coat of grease on the shims. Basically grease between the shims and the back of the pad, grease between the shims, and grease between the shims and the piston, etc. Not sure if that much grease makes any difference, but no noise so far.
12-21-2005, 04:31 PM
#30
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 113
Fishyman- My shim kit was 1 shim per pad = 4 front shims - for 4 front pads,
so I'm not familiar with the extra silver shim. As for the anti- squeal goo -
fit your shims to the pads , put a dab of the goo on the shim, spread it in
an even layer and let it set up a while (a half hour or so) - then carefully
put everything together while trying NOT to have the anti- squeal goo
scrape off as you slip the pads into the calipers.
so I'm not familiar with the extra silver shim. As for the anti- squeal goo -
fit your shims to the pads , put a dab of the goo on the shim, spread it in
an even layer and let it set up a while (a half hour or so) - then carefully
put everything together while trying NOT to have the anti- squeal goo
scrape off as you slip the pads into the calipers.
12-21-2005, 04:34 PM
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
Thank you all for the input. Is grease a noise reduction? or the anti squeel thing?
I've heard that over time the anti squeek compounds will dry out or something. I'll give the grease a shot as I think its better. If not I'll go w/ the anti squeek.
I've heard that over time the anti squeek compounds will dry out or something. I'll give the grease a shot as I think its better. If not I'll go w/ the anti squeek.
12-21-2005, 05:05 PM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 150
Originally Posted by 7jackmack
Fishyman- The shim kit was about $25.00 when I got it a few years ago.
I can't remember if that was for both ends or just one. If you have
the o.e.m. metal shims in place , you can usually just clean them up
and reuse them.
I do my rear brakes about every 80,000 miles and my fronts
about every 25,000 miles. The fronts wear 3 times faster, but
even so I replace them well before they are shot, as I have lifetime
warranty on the pads.
I've always just turned in the rear pistons with a needle nose pliers,
but $10.00 for the right tool is probably safer and easier.
I suggest you carefully pry the rubber boot free in its groove on the
rear pistons so you don't rip it, as you screw in the piston.(they tend
to stick).
Also- make sure your caliper pins are completely free and the rubber
boots on the pins are not damaged.
clean up everything with brake cleaner AND ALWAYS use some anti-
squeal compound on the backs of the new pads.
I can't remember if that was for both ends or just one. If you have
the o.e.m. metal shims in place , you can usually just clean them up
and reuse them.
I do my rear brakes about every 80,000 miles and my fronts
about every 25,000 miles. The fronts wear 3 times faster, but
even so I replace them well before they are shot, as I have lifetime
warranty on the pads.
I've always just turned in the rear pistons with a needle nose pliers,
but $10.00 for the right tool is probably safer and easier.
I suggest you carefully pry the rubber boot free in its groove on the
rear pistons so you don't rip it, as you screw in the piston.(they tend
to stick).
Also- make sure your caliper pins are completely free and the rubber
boots on the pins are not damaged.
clean up everything with brake cleaner AND ALWAYS use some anti-
squeal compound on the backs of the new pads.
12-25-2005, 03:55 PM
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
With out making a new thread. I stripped my sliding pins bolt. one of them, the top one that moves. Is it supposed to be like that?? Im trying to remove it and replace it. What makes a good alternative?
More importantly how can i remove it?
More importantly how can i remove it?
12-25-2005, 05:29 PM
#35
Here's a diagram of the front brakes. It's pdf format, so print it out and take it with you when you install your hardware.
http://www.mytempdir.com/342763
Jae
http://www.mytempdir.com/342763
Jae
12-25-2005, 06:17 PM
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
Originally Posted by ThurzNite
Here's a diagram of the front brakes. It's pdf format, so print it out and take it with you when you install your hardware.
http://www.mytempdir.com/342763
Jae
http://www.mytempdir.com/342763
Jae
I finished the driver's side and will do the passenger side tomorrow.
I noticed that the pads that were on it had no shims. Also, the 2 V clips are supposed to point together right? I suppose those V clips are to make the pads float and make an even wear?
Anyhow thanks very much.
02-11-2006, 07:07 PM
#38
Where are you located?
Do you have an autozone in your area, If you do tell them you need the tool to retract the piston on the rear calipers. They should have a large diagram with all the various tools they loan out.
If you dont have an autozone, or similar just use the same description as above, if they dont know what your talking about, they either shouldnt be working there, or they dont have it in stock . . . and dont know what your talking about.
Do you have an autozone in your area, If you do tell them you need the tool to retract the piston on the rear calipers. They should have a large diagram with all the various tools they loan out.
If you dont have an autozone, or similar just use the same description as above, if they dont know what your talking about, they either shouldnt be working there, or they dont have it in stock . . . and dont know what your talking about.
02-12-2006, 06:37 PM
#39
Originally Posted by FishyMan
i just wanna ask, exactly what brake tool i need? i try asking checkers but they did nto know..
thank.s
thank.s
