exardus

Hello. I need to replace my pas. side axel, and after i took of the three bolts that attach the axel to the support bracket I couldn't get the axel housing out of the support bracket. Pretty mutch it doesn't move out of it at all. I tried hitting it with a hammer, but space is limited, and you can't really get a good hitting spot.
I'm sure i'm not the first person to change their axel on an old maxima, so i was wondering if any of you guys might have any suggestion on how to take it out. I called the shop, and they said that they have some kind of special tool, and they want $65 for replacing the axel and it takes about an hour. I don't really have the money for that because i already paid 60 for it from advanced autoparts. Do you know what this special tool is that they are talking about, and do you think it's possible that i could rent it somewhere? How do you get your axels out? My max is out of commission in my garadge for now, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

I JUST DID ONE........u gotta stick a pry bar or if u have an air hammer....where the carrier bearing rest where the 3 bolts are...u could also rent a slide hammer that will work...i used the air hammer techique....what happens is it get all corroded in the collar where it bolts in

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Move the bolts for the support. The whole support will come off, and you can pull it out.

Donald199

iTrader: (1)

smake the outer casting with a heavy 5 pound hammer not a nail hammer if that's what you are using

exardus

thanks alot for your reply's. Like mtrai760 suggested i took of the entire support, it wasn't that hard. My problem now is that i can't pul the axel out with the support still in place out of the car. It gets stuck between the control arm and where oil filter screws in. Do you guys have any tips on how to get it out, because then i could easyer take it apart if i have it outside, or just get a different bracket of junk yard or something from the car that already had the axel pulled out of it.

exardus

thanks alot for all the info, after a nice nap i was actually able to pull it out. I just smacked the **** out of it with a little crowbar and a hammer, man it's a ***** to replace. I think i'm gonna lubricate it alot so it's not that hard next time. Again thanks for replys.

FR8RFLYR

EXARDUS, A favor please. While you still have the axle, could you take a look at the carrier bearing and see if there is a part number on it, or measure the width OD and ID (or shaft OD). I need to replace this bearing, I found a shop that can do the work but they don't know what bearing to get before they start to tear it apart. Thanks!!

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

Dude Make Sure You Took Out The Three Bolts That Connect It To The Frame!!!!

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

it will be cheaper for u to just have them do the whole axle....RENT A SLIDE HAMMER

exardus

FR8RFLYR, can you tell me again what again what i should look at. I'm not completely sure what the carrier bearing is. I got the axel at my house still, probably won't take it into a store till monday. Let me know what part of the axel i should look at. I can't read any part numbers if they were on the outside, my axel is pretty rusted, especially by that cylinder that goes into the support. Let me know what exactly i should measure.

exardus

ok, now i have another problem, how do i put the axel into the wheel hub. It is too long for me to slide it it. I think i have to take the whole hub off. But i can't get the nut loose that connects to the control arm. I almost stripped it, and don't want to have to drill it out or something. I'm so tired of this axel ****, i just wanna get out of my garage

lilaclucymaxima

iTrader: (16)

It is much easier with two people. Either you or your buddy go underneath the car and pry the axel from the triangular-shaped bracket (I used a very large flathead screwdriver... you can also tap it with a ball-point hammer if you wish), while the other is on the outside, twisting and pulling at the axel at the same time. Brute force is not enough by itself, this is where the twisting comes in. While you are pulling and twisting, make sure you are perpendicular to the transmission, otherwise it will be very hard to get it out, and there's a higher risk of breaking something. This is how I changed mine about a month ago. Took me and my friend 45 minutes to change my passenger side drive axel. Hope this helped.

exardus

I already got my axel out, now the problem is putting it back in. I don't see a way of how this can be done without removing the hub. Now my problem is that the nut on the ball bearing that hooks up to the control arm is officially stripped. I'm gonna try putting some smaller sockets on it, and see if it'll go. Or i might go to sears and get a craftsman stripped nut kit. Do you guys have any suggestions on how to remove this f'ed up nut?

lilaclucymaxima

iTrader: (16)

So you were able to remove it without taking the hub out, and now you can't put it back in without taking the hub out? Strange. I ended up taking everything out anyway to clean because of the ripped boot... got grease everywhere. New one went in very easily. Took about 5 minutes to put the new one in, if that. I wouldn't touch the stripped nut you mention... you'll most likely make it worse. Buy the stripped nut kit and then return it when you're done with it. Make sure you spray the living **** out of it with some wd40 or pb blaster.

FR8RFLYR

exardus,

The carrier bearing is the inboard most component on the axle, the part that should be fairly clean, as it was inside the cap that you had to remove to get the axle shaft out of the transmission. If you start at the splined end that came out of the transmission, you have the carrier bearing first, then the inner CV joint, then at the opposite end the outer CV joint. Part ID should be on the side of the outer race of the bearing. It is usually stamped lightly or etched into the bearing, and it could be under a layer of grease. If not, the dimensions would be helpful. If you don't have a dial caliper for the measurement, maybe the store has one behind the counter.

Even better yet, if you haven't been able to get the shaft back on the car, take a look at the new shaft as it is definitely clean, and the bearing is probably a replacement from the rebuilding process. It is more likely to have identifying numbers on it that I can use to get an equivalent replacement at the bearing distributor. Thanks again, I really appreciate it. Let me know if you ever need to know anything about aircraft. That's where I spend most of my time. Maybe I can return the favor with some advice in that field.